Best "all around" general table saw blade

[dclark2171]

I just got the SKIL 10 inch Table saw on sale. I do not do major cuts, so this saw is more than enough. However, I would like to upgrade the blade and I really want a "general blade" that is good on wood (mostly baseboard size), MDF, PVC, plastics, etc. Basically, an upgraded version of the blade that came with it. I'll use the stock blade for a while. Any recommendations?

 

[dnschmidt]

Well a good blade, Forrest, Freud, Amana or Ridge Carbide is going to cost at least half of what the saw cost. I too bought this exact saw but have many premium 10 inch blades for it already from my Delta Unisaw so this upgrade cost me nothing. To cut the variety of materials you listed I would recommend a triple chip style of blade commonly used for plastic and metal (aluminum) but these also work very well for crosscutting wood. To rip wood you need a blade with fewer teeth. The Oshlun SBW-100024 would be my recommendation. Best bang for the buck will always be Oshlun. They are made in China but very well made. These are available on Amazon.

 

[d.mcfarland]

The best blade that I've found that is very affordable. Around $40-$45. I say that because the finish left on the cut is fantastic.

 

[Davefr]

Go to Amazon and buy a Foxbc blade designed for the type of cuts you'll make. They're very affordable and just as good as these premium priced name brand blades like Freud, etc. They're cheap enough that when they're dull you can toss them. With these premium blades that approach $100 you'll feel guilty tossing them yet sharpening service will cost as much as these Amazon blades. (if you can even find a saw shop to sharpen them).

FOXBC 10 Inch Ultimate General Purpose Table Saw Blade, 40-Tooth Wood Cutting, 5/8-Inch Arbor - Amazon.com

FOXBC 10 Inch Ultimate General Purpose Table Saw Blade, 40-Tooth Wood Cutting, 5/8-Inch Arbor - Amazon.com

www.amazon.com

 

[theoldwizard1]

I am a Diablo fan. DIY user. Their Steel Demon Carbide Tooth Reciprocating Saw Blade (DS0608) cut through a 20mm (3/4") metric class 10.9 (US Grade 8) in a reasonable amount of time.

 

[dnschmidt]

The OP is looking for an upgrade. The Makita, made by Tenryu, is definitely an upgrade. The second recommendation is not any better than the blade that comes with the saw.

 

[neophyte]

I just got the SKIL 10 inch Table saw on sale. I do not do major cuts, so this saw is more than enough. However, I would like to upgrade the blade and I really want a "general blade" that is good on wood (mostly baseboard size), MDF, PVC, plastics, etc. Basically, an upgraded version of the blade that came with it. I'll use the stock blade for a while. Any recommendations?

No blade is going to handle all those materials well, and if you need to ask this question, I would recommend avoiding some of the more expensive blade options like Forrest or Ridge Carbide, especially for a Skil tablesaw.
A Freud/Diablo blade from Home Depot would be a good compromise of performance and value.
An ATB blade or crosscut blade is the best compromise for basic wood materials, although the crosscut blade may work just as well as an ATB/combination blade if you stick with a lower tooth count.
For plastics, you might want to just purchase blades made specifically not just for plastics, but which specify which plastics to use the blades on.
Nowadays there are usually good but affordable blades made for numerous materials.
For some materials like laminates and hard wearing flooring, you just need to buy a specific blade for the job.

 

[georgiadave]

You need more than one blade. Problem solved.

 

[Ohio Andy]

I purposely purchased a slightly thinner blade, but that means that it is more likely to deflect.... but it also takes less power to cut through thicker wood because it is cutting less out.

I went with Forrest, Thin-Kerf Woodworker II which is a combination blade that works pretty well for RIP and Crosscut. For example,

https://www.leevalley.com/en-us/shop/tools/power-tool-accessories/saw-blades/table-saw/46446-forrest-woodworker-blades?item=15T4130

 

[exmaxima1]

I am a Diablo fan. DIY user. Their Steel Demon Carbide Tooth Reciprocating Saw Blade (DS0608) cut through a 20mm (3/4") metric class 10.9 (US Grade 8) in a reasonable amount of time.

Agreed. Freud Diablo is a decent aftermarket blade and lasts a long time. For general TS use, this would work fine:

Diablo Tools 10 in. X 40 in. Tooth Carbide Circular Saw Blade - Table Saw Blades - Amazon.com

Diablo Tools 10 in. X 40 in. Tooth Carbide Circular Saw Blade - Table Saw Blades - Amazon.com

www.amazon.com

 

[dnschmidt]

Don't underestimate the SKIL 10" table saw. This thing is a fantastic value for $279. It has a great fence, more than enough power for damn near anything you'll ever need to cut and a foldable leg system that's really neat. Mine was perfectly set up right out of the box, and boy was it in a BIG ASSED box. Skil also has great customer support which I needed to call a couple of times to figure out where certain things were, like the blade wrenches, and how to use some of the many features built into this saw. Look at the many reviews on YouTube. If you need a portable saw you simply can't beat it and at this price it's an amazing value.

 

[neophyte]

Don't underestimate the SKIL 10" table saw. This thing is a fantastic value for $279. It has a great fence, more than enough power for damn near anything you'll ever need to cut and a foldable leg system that's really neat. Mine was perfectly set up right out of the box, and boy was it in a BIG ASSED box. Skil also has great customer support which I needed to call a couple of times to figure out where certain things were, like the blade wrenches, and how to use some of the many features built into this saw. Look at the many reviews on YouTube. If you need a portable saw you simply can't beat it and at this price it's an amazing value.

Skil has multiple 10” tablesaw options.
Please post model number or picture while praising the saw.

Benchtop & Table Saws | SKIL

SKIL brings innovation to the table with a range of powerful benchtop and table saws.

www.skil.com

 

[rlitman]

Don't underestimate the SKIL 10" table saw. This thing is a fantastic value...

Agreed, but it also has different blade requirements than a cabinet saw. I can get by with my full kerf 60T ATBR blade on a 3HP motor and plow through anything wood I throw at it (I still own several blades), but on a portable saw, you'll be burning everything with that. There's a reason there's a flourishing market of ultra-thin kerf blades made for portable saws, just as there's a good reason we don't recommend ATBR and other "combo" type blades on portable saws.

 

[dnschmidt]

Skil has multiple 10” tablesaw options.
Please post model number or picture while praising the saw.

Benchtop & Table Saws | SKIL

SKIL brings innovation to the table with a range of powerful benchtop and table saws.

www.skil.com

TS6307-00

 

[WisJim]

The OP is looking for an upgrade. The Makita, made by Tenryu, is definitely an upgrade. The second recommendation is not any better than the blade that comes with the saw.

When I read this thread, the Makita is the "second recommendation", so this comment is confusing.

 

[dnschmidt]

When I read this thread, the Makita is the "second recommendation", so this comment is confusing.

Post 4 and post 5 are the first two.

 

[dnschmidt]

Agreed, but it also has different blade requirements than a cabinet saw. I can get by with my full kerf 60T ATBR blade on a 3HP motor and plow through anything wood I throw at it (I still own several blades), but on a portable saw, you'll be burning everything with that. There's a reason there's a flourishing market of ultra-thin kerf blades made for portable saws, just as there's a good reason we don't recommend ATBR and other "combo" type blades on portable saws.

This is a 15 Amp saw. I use a normal 1/8" kerf blade on it without issue. 15 Amp is the same as a Delta Contractors Saw (the older good ones with the 1 1/2HP induction motor not the lesser product they now sell). This SKIL will handle a normal blade. Where people get confused is when they talk about battery powered saws, which this is not, needing thin kerf and normally 8 1/4" blades. I'm as cordless as it gets but for high powered applications, which this is, you can't beat a cord.

 

[BombShelter]

The Freud General Purpose 10" Blade probably outsells all of the others combined. Personally I'd get both a cross-cut and ripping blade and this is the perfect time when they all go on sale. I do like my mini-Makita Blades on a little circular saw and smaller one handed circular saw, they cut really nice. CMT used to be a great blade, they still have the Italian Versions on Menards.com for pretty cheap but I haven't talked to a user in years. I do have a stack of after Christmas Blow-out Versions but they're all made in China. They're around $10-$20 during clearance.

 

[tarbellb]

When cutting lots of different materials I would say tooth count is almost more important then quality

If it was my money

Diablo triple chip in BOTH HIGH AND LOW tooth count will give decent results on most materials

 

[neophyte]

When cutting lots of different materials I would say tooth count is almost more important then quality

If it was my money

Diablo triple chip in BOTH HIGH AND LOW tooth count will give decent results on most materials

High tooth counts can give cleaner cuts, but are more likely to cause burning, and if the saw is set up wrong or used improperly, mire likely to cause kickback.
Low tooth counts can lead to rougher cuts.
Tooth counts and tooth styles for plastic matter, since some plastics are highly prone to overheating and melting, which at the least problematic can cause the plastic to crack, or cause melted edges on the plastic, or result in a blade that gets melted plastic stuck to the teeth requiring replacement of the blade, or time intensive and annoying cleaning.
At worst the plastic can cause unsafe conditions.

 

[MovingAlong]

I just got the SKIL 10 inch Table saw on sale. I do not do major cuts, so this saw is more than enough. However, I would like to upgrade the blade and I really want a "general blade" that is good on wood (mostly baseboard size), MDF, PVC, plastics, etc. Basically, an upgraded version of the blade that came with it. I'll use the stock blade for a while. Any recommendations?

Give the blade a spritz of Fluid Film on each side. You may be surprised at what the stock blade will do..

 

[Ohio Andy]

High tooth counts can give cleaner cuts, but are more likely to cause burning, and if the saw is set up wrong or used improperly, mire likely to cause kickback.
Low tooth counts can lead to rougher cuts.
Tooth counts and tooth styles for plastic matter, since some plastics are highly prone to overheating and melting, which at the least problematic can cause the plastic to crack, or cause melted edges on the plastic, or result in a blade that gets melted plastic stuck to the teeth requiring replacement of the blade, or time intensive and annoying cleaning.
At worst the plastic can cause unsafe conditions.

I have a thin curf Forest woodworker too that is a combination blade that is roughly 40 teeth. It works for most things. If I want a really nice cut on plywood as in nicer than I can get by taping the edges before cutting, then I'll pull out wemy 80 tooth plywood blade. I never felt the need for a dedicated rip blade though. If I was cutting a bunch of thick stock regularly, I'd probably own a dedicated rip blade

 

[tarbellb]

High tooth counts can give cleaner cuts, but are more likely to cause burning, and if the saw is set up wrong or used improperly, mire likely to cause kickback.
Low tooth counts can lead to rougher cuts.
Tooth counts and tooth styles for plastic matter, since some plastics are highly prone to overheating and melting, which at the least problematic can cause the plastic to crack, or cause melted edges on the plastic, or result in a blade that gets melted plastic stuck to the teeth requiring replacement of the blade, or time intensive and annoying cleaning.
At worst the plastic can cause unsafe conditions.

Duh, I already doubled the # of blades he wanted to buy





obviously the correct blade for every material is best, op didnt ask for that

 

[nh_yota]

You guys change the blade on your saws?

 

[larry4406]

You guys change the blade on your saws?

I only do when it starts smoking while ripping and the motor trips out on thermal overload.

Happened prior weekend so its time.

I think I am going to go with a 60 or 80T blade from HF. They are local so its either them or the blue and orange box stores.

 

[Ohio Andy]

I only do when it starts smoking while ripping and the motor trips out on thermal overload.

Happened prior weekend so its time.

I think I am going to go with a 60 or 80T blade from HF. They are local so its either them or the blue and orange box stores.

Just remember that a higher tooth count can be harder to rip with which is why a combination usually has like 40 teeth. A rip is probably 24 and a cross cut is 60 to 80

 

[fozzy]

Freud, Forest, and Diablo are all great blade brands that have produced great results. Take your pick on the tooth count/purpose that you need, you will not be disappointed.

I have had high-end table saws and contractor table saws and I personally believe that a good blade or two and other upgrades and add-ons may end up costing a significant percentage of the base saw itself but your results (and safety) will be worth it. Similar to a basic reasonably-priced firearm that may deliver adequate results, a little thoughtful research and application of money can vastly improve out-of-the-box performance.

Of course, since this is Garage Journal, if you follow the conventional wisdom you will end up with knick-knacks and doo-dads that will triple the price of the base machine and then you will realize you should have bought a 1,500#/$4,000 professional grade table saw. I'm currently accessorizing a DWE7491RS and will probably be into accessories for the price of the base saw, but I bought this saw specifically because I need the reduced footprint and mobility and the add-ons will allow me to do exactly what I need it to do. Just keep it reasonable in price and expectations for what you have and you will be OK.

 

[finn]

Blade related question here, although perhaps I should start a new thread….

The belt on my 12” Dewalt miter saw started slipping. It’s not a current model saw, and although I’m not kind to it, the previous owner (son’s FIL) barely used it before he sold his house and moved to an apartment.

I bought a new belt, but when I went to install it, the old belt looks like new and seems to have adequate tension.

That leaves me with the thought that the blade may be so dull that it takes more power to spin under load than the belt can transmit, even though I don’t get burning and smoke from the cut under load, and the carbide tips seem sharp to the touch. I think it’s the original blade. I have replaced blades on other saws, but the symptoms of a blade well past its EOL are burning and it just won’t cut.

I’ve been cutting mostly cedar and birch paneling. The blade seems clean, ie no pitch buildup.

I won’t see the saw again until May, but HD has some 12” Diablo blades on sale now, and I thought it would be a good time to pick up a 40 or maybe an 80 tooth blade.

Question: is the slipping caused by a bad blade? If so, which blade, 40 or 80 tooth. Or both.

I’m obviously not a fine woodworker.

 

[neophyte]

I only do when it starts smoking while ripping and the motor trips out on thermal overload.

Happened prior weekend so its time.

I think I am going to go with a 60 or 80T blade from HF. They are local so its either them or the blue and orange box stores.

Does HF have an equivalent blade quality line comparable to their Icon hand tool line?
I know there are dent enough blades made in China nowadays, but I never really bothered buying consumable blades from HF, since the past reputation was sort of bad, and since most major branded blades from name brand professional power tool companies are usually decent and affordable, and there are/were also decent blades from Freud/Diablo/Bosch that were made in Europe, and still decently priced.

By the way, the Freud and Diablo brands are both owned by Bosch, and the different brand names used will vary by region.
There are different quality levels, but usually the teflon coated blades are the higher quality options, with bare steel as a midrange option, and sometimes a lower end option as well.

 

[dnschmidt]

Does HF have an equivalent blade quality line comparable to their Icon hand tool line?
I know there are dent enough blades made in China nowadays, but I never really bothered buying consumable blades from HF, since the past reputation was sort of bad, and since most major branded blades from name brand professional power tool companies are usually decent and affordable, and there are/were also decent blades from Freud/Diablo/Bosch that were made in Europe, and still decently priced.

By the way, the Freud and Diablo brands are both owned by Bosch, and the different brand names used will vary by region.
There are different quality levels, but usually the teflon coated blades are the higher quality options, with bare steel as a midrange option, and sometimes a lower end option as well.

As I've already mentioned OSHLUN is the best value in saw blades and they are readily available on Amazon. Made in China but very high quality blades for the right price.

 

[larry4406]

Does HF have an equivalent blade quality line comparable to their Icon hand tool line?
I know there are dent enough blades made in China nowadays, but I never really bothered buying consumable blades from HF, since the past reputation was sort of bad, and since most major branded blades from name brand professional power tool companies are usually decent and affordable, and there are/were also decent blades from Freud/Diablo/Bosch that were made in Europe, and still decently priced.

By the way, the Freud and Diablo brands are both owned by Bosch, and the different brand names used will vary by region.
There are different quality levels, but usually the teflon coated blades are the higher quality options, with bare steel as a midrange option, and sometimes a lower end option as well.

I have had good experience with the Bauer and Hercules blades.

Maybe I have low standards compared to others here, but they work just fine for me.

 

[seber]

If you really want one blade for everything, you will be very disappointed. If you only want one for wood, get a cheap forty tooth combo blade. High quality in a combination blade won't buy you anything. For other materials, get a triple chip. Nothing is going to do everything. Best answer is a good sixty tooth and twenty four tooth plus a triple chip. As to best quality blade, there are dozens of good ones. Just don't waste money on the super expensive hyped up names that actually only offer that, a name. I'm looking at you Forest and a few others.

 

[Davefr]

If you really want one blade for everything, you will be very disappointed. If you only want one for wood, get a cheap forty tooth combo blade. High quality in a combination blade won't buy you anything. For other materials, get a triple chip. Nothing is going to do everything. Best answer is a good sixty tooth and twenty four tooth plus a triple chip. As to best quality blade, there are dozens of good ones. Just don't waste money on the super expensive hyped up names that actually only offer that, a name. I'm looking at you Forest and a few others.

I would also recommend a dedicated thin kerf blade for ripping. It'll produce a nice clean cut that probably won't require going thru a jointer. It'll put less load on the saw if you're cutting thicker or denser material. It'll also increase your yield since it's wasting less wood. The later can be a factor when you need to use use expensive/exotic wood.

 

[Jgaz]

Forrest WoodWorker 2 for 95% of what I run through my table saw.

 

[ez-duzit]

No blade is going to handle all those materials well, and if you need to ask this question, I would recommend avoiding some of the more expensive blade options like Forrest or Ridge Carbide, especially for a Skil tablesaw...

Have to disagree with all this.

For decades I have successfully used a high quality, multi-tooth, triple-chip combination blade on my principal table saw to cut wood, fiberglass, aluminum, plastic....... etc.
One caution is to avoid using a zero-clearance insert when cutting some plastics, as the swarf may build up in the slot and cause a violent insert destruction.

 

[Ohio Andy]

Have to disagree with all this.

For decades I have successfully used a high quality, multi-tooth, triple-chip combination blade on my principal table saw to cut wood, fiberglass, aluminum, plastic....... etc.
One caution is to avoid using a zero-clearance insert when cutting some plastics, as the swarf may build up in the slot and cause a violent insert destruction.

I'm able to cut most things with my combination blade, but when I need a super fine cut on plywood, I change the blade to one specifically designed for that...

And obviously dadoes. I use a different blade or anything where I need a flat bottom cuz I'm not totally cutting through the material.

 

[Codyboy]

I'm able to cut most things with my combination blade, but when I need a super fine cut on plywood, I change the blade to one specifically designed for that...

And obviously potatoes. I use a different blade or anything where I need a flat bottom cuz I'm not totally cutting through the material.

I stopped cutting potatoes on my TS because I don't eat french fries anymore. Too much starch.

 

[Ohio Andy]

I stopped cutting potatoes on my TS because I don't eat french fries anymore. Too much starch.

Oops, voice to text.... dado... when I cut dadoes.

 

[dnschmidt]

When you say I want to cut everything then triple chip blades are the only way to go. For plywood and crosscutting wood something like the Freud LU85 with a high alternate top bevel is the answer. I use triple chip for damn near everything.