Matching 50+ year old dark trim

[andyvh1959]

in the process of trim for my recent windows/door installation. Next I'd like to match the new trim to the early 70s dark stained woodwork. Valspar gel stain in the Kona color comes close but not quite. Anyone out there have tips to make it darker? I may mix Valspar gel Kona and Ebony 50/50 to see if that is closer. This is a piece of select pine with a test of the Kona color stain.

 

[545_days]

I would look into a wood conditioner before staining to prevent the blotching evident on your test board. Do your research, and use a conditioner compatible with your selected stain.

 

[andyvh1959]

Thanks, never thought of a wood conditioner. The 50 year old pine on the unstained side is itself darker than the new wood trim, so a conditioner makes sense. A quick net search result:

AI Overview
Yes, you should use a pre-stain wood conditioner before staining to prevent blotchiness and ensure even color penetration, especially on softwoods like pine. Apply the conditioner, let it penetrate for a specific time (usually 5-30 minutes), and then apply the stain within the recommended time frame. Always match the conditioner type to your stain type (water-based with water-based, oil-based with oil-based).

Why use wood conditioner?

• Prevents blotchiness: Woods like pine, fir, and alder can absorb stain unevenly, leading to dark, blotchy patches. A pre-stain conditioner fills the wood's pores to help it accept the stain more uniformly.
• Ensures even color: It promotes a more consistent and even-toned final color across the wood surface.
• Reduces streaking: By equalizing the stain absorption, it prevents the unsightly streaks that can appear on unprepared wood.

How to apply wood conditioner
This video demonstrates the proper way to apply pre-stain wood conditioner:

1. Prepare the wood: Make sure the wood is clean and sanded to your desired finish.
2. Apply the conditioner: Use a brush, cloth, or pad to apply a thin, even coat in the direction of the wood grain.
3. Let it penetrate: Allow the conditioner to penetrate for the time recommended by the manufacturer, typically 5 to 30 minutes. Do not let it dry completely.
4. Wipe off excess: After the penetration time, wipe off any excess conditioner with a clean, dry cloth.
5. Apply the stain: Apply your stain within the time frame recommended by the product, usually within 2 hours after applying the conditioner.
6. Important note: If you wait too long (more than 2 hours) to stain, the conditioner may become less effective. If this happens, lightly sand the surface to re-open the pores before applying the stain.

 

[Bert_]

Good luck on the pine. Boards with good tight grain will take stain better. The existing stuff took 50 years to get that exact color.

 

[MoonRise]

Testing the stain beforehand, good.

Conditioner, pretty much necessary.

What I really notice though is the grain mismatch. That's going to be harder to match

If the stain 'color' is close but not quite dark enough, you can apply some stain (on the preconditioned wood!), let it sit a little longer before wiping it gently. Let that coat of stain dry, and then apply a second coat of stain. Let dry and evaluate. Repeat as necessary. Possibly with different color stains as some of the layers.

Matching old stain on old wood is a trial process, Keep at it.

Oh, and remember to include the effects of the varnish too. The finish can have an effect on the appearance.

You can also try tinted varnish as another way to layer your colors.

Remember to use gloss varnish if you are layering, then top coat with the desired sheen of varnish as the final coat only (multiple coats of non-gloss varnish make the finish look muddy because of the buildup of the flattening agents, only do the topcoat in semi/satin/matte over the gloss underlayers).

 

[andyvh1959]

I did try a 2nd coat of the Valspar gel stain, this time applied with minimal wiping, over the previous application. It came out very close in color, coverage and depth to some original trim. I will need to try it on various woods as the baseboard and window casings are oak, but some wide wood trim pieces are pine. I bought some select aspen boards as Menards did not have 1x wide pine boards in select grade. Aspen is very similar to pine grain wise. I wonder too, if light sanding with 400 grit before staining might prep the woods factory prepped surface.

 

[alinc100]

TransTint aniline dyes are soluble in alcohol or water ,Can be added directly to the wood(after mixing with water or alcohol) , can also be added to shellacs,varnishes,etc to obtain your color matching needs. chrome-extension://efaidnbmnnnibpcajpcglclefindmkaj/https://homesteadfinishingproducts.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/10/transtint_chart_2018.pdf

 

[Jackfre]

TransTint aniline dyes are soluble in alcohol or water ,Can be added directly to the wood(after mixing with water or alcohol) , can also be added to shellacs,varnishes,etc to obtain your color matching needs. chrome-extension://efaidnbmnnnibpcajpcglclefindmkaj/https://homesteadfinishingproducts.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/10/transtint_chart_2018.pdf

My first thought and my go to is Trans-Tint too. It allows you to sneak up on a drop by drop basis. I’m trying to do same with some walnut. Slow andd steady wins the race. It drives you crazy, but it works.

 

[Stuart in MN]

What species is the wood in the original trim? It may help to use that for the new stuff, at least the grain pattern will be similar.

 

[andyvh1959]

Most of the baseboard trim, window and door casings are oak. But my home is a contemporary with sections of trim of wide select pine, no knots/little grain detail. All the trim in the house is a very dark brown, nearing black, plus it has aged for 50+ years.

The south wall of the living room used to be two 8' patio doors I took out (pic below) and replaced with one 36" inswing door and three 48" windows, so I am matching some of the original select pine trim to make the new windows/door blend into the vintage trim/stain.

The south wall is now:

 

[wolfhawk73]

Along with conditioner, don't be afraid to try sanding at different grits. Stain particles will collect in the sanding marks. Go with the grain by hand versus an orgital. Orbital sanding tends to show swirl marks.

 

[Milton Shaw]

I you get a premix stain, a suggestion is before you shake/mix the can pour and save about half the solvent off the top. Then mix and try and see if it's dark enough, if its too dark then mix the extra solvent and try it then. Trying to match an old stain is hard to do and any tricks help. The stain makers have changed the stains in the 60 years I have been doing wood working and the same color stain doesn't match aged finished parts.

 

[gizardlizard]

Go to an old school paint store and have it matched. I have a Premier paint and wall coverings store close to me. There’s an old dude working there that knows his ****. For a match, he requires a sample of the color and sheen you want and a decent size piece of wood from the species you are using. He then starts mixing many colors together until he gets a perfect match. He usually gets it done by the next day. All the custom home builders in my area go to this guy for stain matching. It’s a lost art.

 

[ddurrett896]

I used General Finish stain gel. Just tested set times until I got the right match.

 

[Two Sheds]

I'll second what gizardlizard said, I needed to match the stain on the 1926 mahogany trim in my house. I took a piece that I had removed in to a paint store that specialized in wood finishes, and they mixed a custom stain that was a perfect match.

 

[Fixr]

I would try the stain on clear Douglas fir if you can get some within budget. I suspect the grain would match better.

I achieved a similar dark walnut-ish color on oak with a combination of 2 different shades of aniline dye (I think Walnut and Mission Oak), followed by a dark shade mix of Minwax poly/stain. May have also been a mix of walnut and dark oak, but the color on the wood was quite different from the aniline dyes. It's been too many years to recall the details, and at least Minwax colors have changed tints over the years.

Analine dyes mostly color the wood fibers, where pigment stains like Minwax mostly fill the texture of the wood and sanding scratches on the surface.

Caution: IIRC, aniline dyes are prone to sun fading.