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Lighting in a "Barn" Workshop

BrigUSMC

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Dec 26, 2025
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11
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New England
Howdy, new guy here finally getting around to finishing a project.

A couple years ago I bought a house in New England with a detached barn/garage. This thing is a bit weird, and looks like a barn eating another barn. At some point an owner just built an extension around the existing building. Because of that, the ceiling has three different heights and creates some unique challenges. Once upon a time it had power running to it, but the house was abandoned for a couple years before being bought and renovated and eventually flipped to me, so most of the wires had been stripped out.

This barn is over 43 feet long and I intend to turn the back half into a woodworking shop. When I moved it, I ran power underground from the house to the barn and had a 100amp subpanel installed. And then life got in the way for a couple of years (I travel a lot for work). Now, I want to get back into the project and the first step is to run power and lighting inside the barn itself.

Lots of questions as a DIYer, but I'll start with the basics.

1. Is it better to hardwire or just plug into outlets? A lot of the reasons I've seen listed out are irrelevant to me. People argue aethetics of hardwiring so that wires don't show, but as you can see from the images, this is a barn with no wall panels and no insulation, and I don't intend to add either. I've also found the argument of outlets in case you need to move them to be irrelevant, as it seems people rarely need to move them. What are the real advantages/benefits of hardwiring vs outlets?

2. I'd like to go LEDSs. The back half will be a wood shop, the front half with the higher ceilings will likely just have a few heavier appliances like deep freezer, a compressor, and maybe flood lights for vehicle repair/maintenance. Any recommended brands you think would work best with the setup?

Attaching some images of the ceilings to show the odd, multi-ceiling arrangement and setup I'm working with:
 

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gimpyrobb

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I went with plugging lights into outlets. I wasn't sure if the lighting I had on-hand would be bright enough AND the option of plugging in an ext cord if needed was a good option imho. I understand the outlet only works while the switch is on, I have plenty of wall outlets so that didn't bother me. I used BX in case rodents got in and decided to chew wires. I had issues at my old house with squirrels.
 
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BrigUSMC

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New England
I went with plugging lights into outlets. I wasn't sure if the lighting I had on-hand would be bright enough AND the option of plugging in an ext cord if needed was a good option imho. I understand the outlet only works while the switch is on, I have plenty of wall outlets so that didn't bother me. I used BX in case rodents got in and decided to chew wires. I had issues at my old house with squirrels.
What's BX?

We do have a heft rat and chipmunk population in the area but I haven't caught them nesting in the garage at all. Yet
 

loganb

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What's BX?

We do have a heft rat and chipmunk population in the area but I haven't caught them nesting in the garage at all. Yet
BX is referring to what is generically called armor cable or flexible metal clad wiring like this

Screenshot_20251228_105416_Chrome.jpg

AC also exists and is similar, difference is in what the metal sheathing is made of and how tightly wound the sheathing is


Either way in a structure that likely has a lot of holes and animal ingress points, protected wiring may not be a bad step. Flexible or EMT is up to you

For plugs vs hard wired, I would do plugs on lights to make it easier to change or move things.
 
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BrigUSMC

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Dec 26, 2025
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New England
BX is referring to what is generically called armor cable or flexible metal clad wiring like this

Screenshot_20251228_105416_Chrome.jpg

AC also exists and is similar, difference is in what the metal sheathing is made of and how tightly wound the sheathing is


Either way in a structure that likely has a lot of holes and animal ingress points, protected wiring may not be a bad step. I'm flexible or EMT is up to you

For plugs vs hard wired, I would do plugs on lights to make it easier to change or move things.

Thanks. Yeah, lots of ingress and egress points. Wsa thinking conduit but this might work better, already a lot of pre-drilled holes in the beams along the walls from the last time there was wiring in there, they're big enough to fit this it seems
 

gimpyrobb

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Its a bit of a pita to install but in the long run, when I don't have to re-run wires...

Plus, I found an electrical contractor that had finished a job and sold me a PILE of it cheap. I often wonder why a contractor would get rid of things that would surely be able to be used in the future, but if the customer paid for it, I guess they make double money.
 
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BrigUSMC

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Its a bit of a pita to install but in the long run, when I don't have to re-run wires...

Plus, I found an electrical contractor that had finished a job and sold me a PILE of it cheap. I often wonder why a contractor would get rid of things that would surely be able to be used in the future, but if the customer paid for it, I guess they make double money.

I would imagine storage fees add up quick, as well
 

bugzilla46310

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Demotte, IN
Hardwire definitely . I have 3 rows in my 30x45 polebar, 6 lights per row. Incandescent lights when I bought the place. I now only have those screw in LED lights with 3 or 4 panels in ever other socket and have more than enough light.
 

Leaflessshadetree

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Don't ask.
IMO it depends on the location and style of light. Hard wire typical screw in bulb bases and fixtures with replaceable bulbs. If you are going to use 4ft LED "shop lights" typically hung on chains from each end I'd put in outlets.
 
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BrigUSMC

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New England
IMO it depends on the location and style of light.

I suppose that's a follow-on question I have, which way I should run the lights, along the length of the barn and perpendicular to the beams, or parallel to them along the width? Not sure what the coverage/overlap needs to be, read they should be spaced 4-10 feet apart, I suppose that depends on the lumens?

Measurements attached if anyone thinks they'll help answer the inquiries
 

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pbon

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Armor shield or conduit is the way to go. I am a DIYer and have done a lot of armor shield lately and once you learn how to do it with the clamps and redheads it is no big deal though trimming the metal spiral adds a little time.

Conduit is also fine and I have run a lot of it but you do have to pull the wires through it and working solo and if running hundreds of feet total that are not in straight lines, I think the MC is easier overall.

For a quickie temporary set up consider a set of 6 or 8 linkable lights plugged into one socket. You can strung them out over 30-40 feet if you choose lights with 5 or 6 foot linkable cords. At another property I have an unfinished barn that I use very occasionally and am doing this. Later you can take the cheap lights and put them in an attic or basement. My home shop and the second floor above have over 30 hardwired lights and are fully finished. The unfinished basement below and the the attic above have cheap linkable lights though I put the outlet they are plugged into on a switched circuit for ease of use and illumination as I enter the room.

I am just a DIYer so if you get different advice from one of the pros here follow it instead.
 
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mm08822

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I'll have to do that math when I figure out the lights I'm using and how many. I'm guessing around 8-10 given the ~650 square footage.
Or plan it out for 2 circuits if it's close on 14/2. Better to not loose all lights if something goes wrong.
 
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BrigUSMC

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Or plan it out for 2 circuits if it's close on 14/2. Better to not loose all lights if something goes wrong.
Was thinking the front half (vehicle maintenance) and back half (woodshop) on different circuits, though I suspect if one goes out I won't use the other half much until I've repaired them all.

Also plan on having a deep freezer out there on its own circuit, outlets on one, a dedicated outlet for air compressor/plasma torch. Read that I should consider a dedicated circuit just for the power saw, but I feel like if it's the only thing running at a time that might be a bit overkill
 

nadogail

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At a former employer I converted the overhead fixtures, as they failed , from Hardwired rigid conduit, to use fixture hanger hooks and twist lock plugs and connector bodies.
It used to take two men in a basket to remove and replace the fixtures for service, after the conversion, servicing a fixture was a one man job.
 
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BrigUSMC

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Swung by Lowes and Home Depot today to window shop...I know they're usually not the best price points if you have time to wait for shipping from elsewhere, but holy hell they were wild compared to online sites.

Who are the preferred/reliable online lighting dealers?
 

nadogail

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Because I have to pay a part time employee to drive me anywhere, I have found that the cost of my Amazon Prime membership allows me to get very good prices and pretty quick delivery.
 
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