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What did you do "IN" your garage today?

niget2002

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Oct 2, 2012
Messages
11,154
Location
Josephine, TX
Let it dry for about 3 days. Silver paint stays tacky longer than other colors.
Learned this the hard way. I basically ruined the current paint job and am having to take it back down to primer :(

I'm also debating all life choices that brought me to this point. I'm almost considering repainting the car body with lacquer instead of acrylic. I ordered some actual thinner instead of using water and will give that a try before resorting to the more toxic paint. I actually have enough automotive HOK paint sitting on the shelf to easily paint this using 'real' paint, but the cleanup each time for something so small would ****.

This guy's video is the only thing helping me give the acrylic one more shot. He did a really good job of comparing the two paint types and giving some good hints about how to work with both.

 
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stonesfan68

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Apr 19, 2012
Messages
2,760
Location
Houston, TX
Learned this the hard way. I basically ruined the current paint job and am having to take it back down to primer :(

I'm also debating all life choices that brought me to this point. I'm almost considering repainting the car body with lacquer instead of acrylic. I ordered some actual thinner instead of using water and will give that a try before resorting to the more toxic paint. I actually have enough automotive HOK paint sitting on the shelf to easily paint this using 'real' paint, but the cleanup each time for something so small would ****.

This guy's video is the only thing helping me give the acrylic one more shot. He did a really good job of comparing the two paint types and giving some good hints about how to work with both.

I started using Alclad and never looked back.

Sprue Bros
 

Outlawmws

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Joined
Aug 9, 2011
Messages
39,285
Location
The Badlands
Correct the taping and spotting of nails is for fire rating.

Our new homes come standard with the garages taped and all the nails spotted. We offer the customer an option for finishing and painting the garage to match the standards of the interior of the home. We use 5/8" Type X drywall on the walls and the ceilings.

Here in CA 5/8 is required for all new construction and remodels period. It used to be 1/2" and either 5/8 or 2 layers of 1/2 for a garage fire wall. The reason for 5/8 on interior walls is thermal mass, and I can tell you having half my house 1/2 and half 5/8, it does make a difference. That is in a fairly mild climate both directions too.
 

LeonardY

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Joined
Apr 16, 2011
Messages
5,070
Location
Southern California
Learned this the hard way. I basically ruined the current paint job and am having to take it back down to primer :(

I'm also debating all life choices that brought me to this point. I'm almost considering repainting the car body with lacquer instead of acrylic. I ordered some actual thinner instead of using water and will give that a try before resorting to the more toxic paint. I actually have enough automotive HOK paint sitting on the shelf to easily paint this using 'real' paint, but the cleanup each time for something so small would ****.

This guy's video is the only thing helping me give the acrylic one more shot. He did a really good job of comparing the two paint types and giving some good hints about how to work with both.

Careful with lacquer. It can soften the plastic. Test it on some sprues first.

I often use Duplicolor touch paints. They are fast drying and lay down really well. A little more expensive than your average can of spray paint.

Acrylics can be tough if they are not thinned properly. I also use denatured alcohol for a thinner.
I typically spray or hand paint flat colors then top coat it with gloss clear.
 

Beerhippie

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Joined
Oct 13, 2023
Messages
9,907
Location
Far NE Oregon
Sometimes it's hard to maintain any faith in humanity....

I had to install a new toilet paper holder in the pub bathroom, as some kind soul stole our old one.

Who steals a toilet paper holder? It was a "vintage"--probably '50s-'60s--advertising gimme from a local business--J.D. Bane Electrical and Plumbing Supply--but you can buy a gawddamned repro "vintage" holder online for $10 or so.

What is wrong with people? Any significance this thing had was purely local to Wallowa County. It had been in that bathroom since the building was built in '85.
 

Wrench97

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Joined
Jun 23, 2018
Messages
12,130
Location
Southeastern Pa
That must not be the case here, but I cant say for sure. I didnt have the basement finished, but they had to hang drywall on the ceiling of the basement for "fire code", again that drywall is a level 0, no taping.

Every single unfinished basement/garage I've been in has been the same.
I wonder if it's 2 layers of 1/2" sheet with the joints off set?
 

Wrench97

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Joined
Jun 23, 2018
Messages
12,130
Location
Southeastern Pa
Sometimes it's hard to maintain any faith in humanity....

I had to install a new toilet paper holder in the pub bathroom, as some kind soul stole our old one.

Who steals a toilet paper holder? It was a "vintage"--probably '50s-'60s--advertising gimme from a local business--J.D. Bane Electrical and Plumbing Supply--but you can buy a gawddamned repro "vintage" holder online for $10 or so.

What is wrong with people? Any significance this thing had was purely local to Wallowa County. It had been in that bathroom since the building was built in '85.
Be on the look out for JD Bane's grandson.....
 

rzims

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Joined
Oct 25, 2006
Messages
457
Location
Grass Valley, CA
My DD has developed a clunk from the front end when going through ruts and potholes (we live on a gravel road) and it's driving me crazy.
Lifted the front end today and checked everything out on both sides. Didn't find anything loose, damaged or obviously worn......might have to take it to my buddy (retired Dodge mechanic) and have him take a look.....
 

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Wrench97

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Joined
Jun 23, 2018
Messages
12,130
Location
Southeastern Pa
My DD has developed a clunk from the front end when going through ruts and potholes (we live on a gravel road) and it's driving me crazy.
Lifted the front end today and checked everything out on both sides. Didn't find anything loose, damaged or obviously worn......might have to take it to my buddy (retired Dodge mechanic) and have him take a look.....
Usually sway bar links, hard to check since they are under load when attached.
Try prying up on the bottom of the sway bar end and look for movement at the ends.
 

Outlawmws

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Aug 9, 2011
Messages
39,285
Location
The Badlands
Usually sway bar links, hard to check since they are under load when attached.
Try prying up on the bottom of the sway bar end and look for movement at the ends.

I'll try that...thank you


I had a knocking sound I kept associating with suspension. It turned out to be the inner plastic fender liners and those barbed push buttons they like to use on everything. The last barbs break off over time and then the liner is banging away on bumps...
 

kaymccampbell

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Joined
Feb 27, 2015
Messages
29,582
Location
Upstate New York
My DD has developed a clunk from the front end when going through ruts and potholes (we live on a gravel road) and it's driving me crazy.
Lifted the front end today and checked everything out on both sides. Didn't find anything loose, damaged or obviously worn......might have to take it to my buddy (retired Dodge mechanic) and have him take a look.....
Also look at crossmembers and motor and diff mounts. They can transmit through the frame and sound like a front end clunk.
 
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bmwrd0

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Joined
Nov 7, 2010
Messages
5,489
Location
Beaver Fever Oregon
Packed things up for shipping, and then spent the rest of my shop time trying to figure out putting a drum switch in line with a instant reverse motor. No wiring diagrams online, formerly had a DPDT switch on it. I have the motor wiring diagram, only it is 30 odd years of updates vs. when the motor was built. I will get there, but it isn't gonna be easy.
 

oldman_pottering

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Joined
Jun 3, 2024
Messages
421
Location
Tinonee, NSW Australia
havent been happy with the placement of this old computer since I moved it into the shed, so I moved it to a corner of a bench where a little old toolbox used to sit and it's much better..........only thing is now that little toolbox is sitting on another bench getting in the way..........................what have I done :unsure:
 

Hal

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Joined
Mar 8, 2008
Messages
670
Location
Vermont
2012 Toyota 4Runner, friend of a friend complained of noisy brakes in the rear. “ Just get everything, pads, rotors and calipers.“ Boy was he right. What he didn’t know is that the tire store had torqued his lug nuts to omigod plus 90 degrees. I managed to destroy one anti theft lugnut before I smartened up and started heating the rest of them.
I wound up drilling the stud to get that one off, then the parts store sent the wrong stud, and didn’t have the correct one. So he is driving with one missing lug nut until I get the right one, and he can get back here to change it.

Meanwhile, he is going to tear the tire store a new one, and see if they will cover anything. Lots of luck there, I think.
 

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Bay79Matco4S

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Jan 6, 2026
Messages
28
Did that very productive thing where you walk in, move three tools from one flat surface to another flat surface, stare at a project for ten minutes like it personally wronged you, then convince yourself organizing a drawer counts as progress.

Eventually tightened two bolts, called it a victory, and shut the lights off before I found something else to "take apart" (my wife took apart my sanity shortly after this, so it found me quickly instead) lol.
 

Outlawmws

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Joined
Aug 9, 2011
Messages
39,285
Location
The Badlands
havent been happy with the placement of this old computer since I moved it into the shed, so I moved it to a corner of a bench where a little old toolbox used to sit and it's much better..........only thing is now that little toolbox is sitting on another bench getting in the way..........................what have I done :unsure:

You need to look for a floor tool to put a "temporary" (permanent) flat surface over and put the offending item there (pick one)
 

Thisistimm

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Jun 3, 2021
Messages
59
Today’s “progress” mocked up a cj-2 t-90 shifter on my T-86e three speed bolted to the back of the big Studebaker v8 in my model A project. Should work slick to convert it from a side shift configuration for the stock column shift set up to a centered floor shifter.

Needs a little modification to work with the R10 overdrive unit that’s on the back of this trans but it’s nothing to crazy.IMG_3647.jpegIMG_3650.jpegIMG_3649.jpeg
 

Beerhippie

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Oct 13, 2023
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9,907
Location
Far NE Oregon
Today’s “progress” mocked up a cj-2 t-90 shifter on my T-86e three speed bolted to the back of the big Studebaker v8 in my model A project. Should work slick to convert it from a side shift configuration for the stock column shift set up to a centered floor shifter.

Needs a little modification to work with the R10 overdrive unit that’s on the back of this trans but it’s nothing to crazy.IMG_3647.jpegIMG_3650.jpegIMG_3649.jpeg
Just remember that putting a top-loader shifter on a 3-sp side-shift trans puts reverse where everyone expects first to be--and probably no detente!

YMMV.

I had that set-up on a Willy's PU years ago. It resulted in a friend putting the bumper hitch through the radiator of his car. I tried to warn him, but he could "drive any rig ever made".
 
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zanyad

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Apr 26, 2018
Messages
2,798
Location
NE Ohio
Meanwhile, it's the semi-monthly kitchen knife sharpening... on which I've fallen behind.
You'd mentioned in one of your previous posts on kitchen knife sharpening that your staff kills edges with sharpening/honing steels. Do you know how/why that happens? I thought a steel is used to touch up the edge between sharpenings.
 

Beerhippie

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Oct 13, 2023
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Location
Far NE Oregon
You'd mentioned in one of your previous posts on kitchen knife sharpening that your staff kills edges with sharpening/honing steels. Do you know how/why that happens? I thought a steel is used to touch up the edge between sharpenings.
A sharpening steel is a file with the teeth going longitudinally. Look closely at one. Use a steel over a piece of white paper and you'll see shavings.

There are burnishing steels that don't remove metal. They're just rods of polished, hardened steel Those are meant to "set the burr" on knives. If you're sharpening your knives such that they have burrs on the edge that fold over, you're doing it wrong.

I removed the steels from the kitchen, which solved that problem. Everyone sees "chefs" on TV hitting their knives on a steel every five minutes. If you can afford to replace chef's knives on a regular basis, go ahead. If you're a butcher and not cutting against a board, again, go ahead--hollowing out a butcher's knife has little effect on its utility.
 

Beerhippie

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Oct 13, 2023
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9,907
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Far NE Oregon
Wow! I've obviously been slacking off this last month!

Here's a handy way to assess knife sharpness: look down the edge of the blade with a small, bright light above and slightly in front of you. See any reflections? You can't see the edge of a sharp knife looking directly onto it.

Here's a very dull (by my standards) kitchen knife:

55026346767_792934e58e_o.jpg

There should be absolutely no bright spots or lines on that edge.
 

Beerhippie

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Oct 13, 2023
Messages
9,907
Location
Far NE Oregon
My sharpening bench:

55027609629_81ebc8cd0e_o.jpg

The tabletop is an accessory my portable vise.

55027623939_77fc684c09_o.jpg

The light is situated so that I can see the burr form on the edge as I sharpen. Seeing the burr means you've fully sharpened the knife to the apex. Later stages with finer grits will remove the burr entirely.

I greatly prefer to do my sharpening outside, as the Ken Onion Worksharp produces a lot of very fine metal dust. I'm wearing an N95 for sharpening inside, as I also greatly prefer not to work outside in the snow.

Sharp:

55027540753_bab47fba5b_o.jpg

There's a little dust on the edge, but no shiny spots. In fact, it's so fine the camera wouldn't focus on it.
 
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larry4406

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Joined
Jan 27, 2006
Messages
19,405
Location
Northern Virginia
My sharpening bench:

55027609629_81ebc8cd0e_o.jpg

The tabletop is held in my portable vise. The light is situated so that I can see the burr form on the edge as I sharpen. Seeing the burr means you've fully sharpened the knife to the apex. Later stages with finer grits will remove the burr entirely.

I greatly prefer to do my sharpening outside, as the Ken Onion Worksharp produces a lot of very fine metal dust. I'm wearing an N95 for sharpening inside, as I also greatly prefer not to work outside in the snow.

Sharp:

View attachment 2467894

There's a little dust on the edge, but no shiny spots. In fact, it's so fine the camera wouldn't focus on it.
Interesting sharpening gizmo...
 

Beerhippie

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Oct 13, 2023
Messages
9,907
Location
Far NE Oregon
Timm, what is the verdict on that Worksharp? Am I right its the Ken Onion Worksharp II?
Yes, you are.

For the uses I'm putting it to, it's the right tool--maybe not the best tool, but at a little over $200, compared to a Tormek at $1k+, it does the job.

It took me almost exactly one hour to bring that pile of dull kitchen knives--and a few co-workers' pocket knives that were worse--back to shaving sharp. My Wicked Edge system would have taken all day, if not longer. The KE allows me to work in stages--run all of the knives over the same grit before changing belts--while the WE requires each knife to be precisely located in the vise, making it impossible to "batch" them. I still use the WE for collectable and fine blades.
 

Beerhippie

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Oct 13, 2023
Messages
9,907
Location
Far NE Oregon
81j1dWO2rKL._AC_SL1500_.jpg

I've been using it since September to sharpen the kitchen knives about every two weeks. It sees use for tools and EDC knives too.

Using the blade grinder attachment for routine knife sharpening has a bit of a learning curve. You're basically free-hand sharpening. The blade angle adjustment alters the small, angled bit of the belt between the upper wheels relative to level--you have to learn to hold the knife horizontally and move it across the belt without changing angles. Change belt, repeat at the same angle. It takes a light touch--basically letting the weight of the knife do the sharpening--to avoid burning the edge. I hold the fingertips of my off-hand as close to the edge as possible to monitor the temperature.

I bought more belts for it, as I wore through the ones that came with it pretty quickly when I reprofiled all of the pub kitchen knives after years of abuse. I'd suggest a progression of 240, 400, 800, 1,600 grits and two stropping belts, one cloth with white compound, one smooth-out leather with green--but you could go all ape-**** with stropping belts loaded with diamond compounds if you wanted to.
 
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