1/2 ratchets, flex head, snap on/gearwrench etc?

[CGarage]

You are welcome to prefer other brands, but the OP wants a Snap-on and I relayed my experience with that brand.

I asked a question that you have left unanswered.

To provide sound advice to the OP, it is only fair to advise him that other brand options exist, at a fraction of the cost, that perform similarly if not better in real world applications.

If you read above, OP stated that they were interested in and will likely go with Gearwrench.


Edited to add:

The psychology behind spending big

What drives people to spend thousands on products and experiences that could cost far less? Tiffanie Wen investigates

www.bbc.com

 

[finn]

In ten years you won't even remember you spent an extra $100 for the finest ratchet made anywhere.

Multiply that by the several hundred tools you own when you’re retired and eating cat food because you wasted your money buying bling instead of juts what was needed to do the job.

 

[IndyGarage]

I asked a question that you have left unanswered.

To provide sound advice to the OP, it is only fair to advise him that other brand options exist, at a fraction of the cost, that perform similarly if not better in real world applications.

If you read above, OP stated that they were interested in and will likely go with Gearwrench.


Edited to add:

The psychology behind spending big

What drives people to spend thousands on products and experiences that could cost far less? Tiffanie Wen investigates

www.bbc.com

I like project farm videos and I think you will usually get a good product based on his reviews. However his testing does not get to the essence of why Snap-on is better.

I have several Gearwrench ratchets. in both 90 tooth and 120. Do they work as well as Snap-on? Probably. Do they feel as good as Snap-on? No. If price were not a factor, I would never buy Gearwrench over the Snap on ratchet. Is it worth 3x the price? Well that's everybody's decision.

Is the difference all in my head? I'm not a luxury buyer of much of anything, unless I can see a clear difference. In this case there is a clear difference. I may go buy an Icon and see if it is similar to Snap on, but I've never really liked buying stuff at Harbor Freight.

 

[CGarage]

Multiply that by the several hundred tools you own when you’re retired and eating cat food because you wasted your money buying bling instead of juts what was needed to do the job.

Well said.

 

[Retired dozer fixer]

Before I retired I used my 1/2” tools the most. 3/4” #2 1” #3 3/8”#4 and 1/4” the least. Yeah I was pulling wrenches professionally then but good tools are worth the investment when you do most of your work in the field out of a truck. His money… his choice

 

[Rinspeed]

Multiply that by the several hundred tools you own when you’re retired and eating cat food because you wasted your money buying bling instead of juts what was needed to do the job.

I thought we were talking about ratchets.

 

[impactims]

Multiply that by the several hundred tools you own when you’re retired and eating cat food because you wasted your money buying bling instead of juts what was needed to do the job.

Name someone here that is eating cat food because of tools that they bought.

If such a person exists here, name them.

 

[impactims]

I disagree with you. If you read my post more carefully, and that of the OP, I think it would help. There is a reason to not use SO and Cornwell, also. Service availability and cost-to-performance ratio come to mind immediately.

Wasn’t it already established that you don’t know what you are talking about?

 

[impactims]

Compared to what other ratchets?
Out of the American brands, Snap-On and Matco I place at the top of the heap. Mac a close second, though I like the older variants.
SK and Proto and Williams, Wright etc are second and third tier for me.

I prefer my European and Japanese and Taiwanese ratchets to Snap-On in most cases.

You also say that 1/2 inch drive ratchets have no use. None. Zero.

So, who would take you seriously? You don’t know what you are talking about. It’s been established already.

 

[CGarage]

Wasn’t it already established that you don’t know what you are talking about?

No, one member had an opinion and chose to ignore the thoughtful advice I provided after I bothered to read OP’s post.

 

[CGarage]

You also say that 1/2 inch drive ratchets have no use. None. Zero.

So, who would take you seriously? You don’t know what you are talking about. It’s been established already.

Please show me where I said that.

Now, you are putting words in my mouth that I never said and you are acting in bad faith.

Your fictitious statements demonstrate your ignorance and poor attempt at manipulation.

Do better.

 

[CGarage]

Name someone here that is eating cat food because of tools that they bought.

If such a person exists here, name them.

Finn’s post is full of financial wisdom. How can you not see that “eating cat food” is a metaphor for the future financial condition one can end up in if they splurge on unnecessary tools at every opportunity? ?

 

[impactims]

@CGarage we both know what has already been established. You don’t know what you are talking about. No point in further dialogue.

 

[CGarage]

@CGarage we both know what has already been established. You don’t know what you are talking about. No point in further dialogue.

@impactims

You ought to read the OP’s posts more thoroughly, and mine. What has been established is you have failed to do this, and you are now trying to be manipulative, which is not very kind, or polite. Do better. The questions I asked to OP were sound and my financial judgement was correct.

 

[finn]

Name someone here that is eating cat food because of tools that they bought.

If such a person exists here, name them.

Never heard of sarcasm?

 

[LWB]

Name someone here that is eating cat food because of tools that they bought.

If such a person exists here, name them.

What's wrong with cat food? JK It is possible to save for retirement and can have nice things along the way, right?

I bought 1 Snap-On ratchet and now have 6 in 1/4 and 3/8. There's something about them...

That said, I use a SK round head for 1/2" drive. If I can't get it with my impact I will usually use a breaker bar first. Then I will spin it off with the SK. I, personally, wouldn't spend the money on a SO 1/2" drive unless I used it on a regular basis. If I did, I would more than likely buy one.

 

[CGarage]

Snap-on Store

shop.snapon.com

$284 US + Shipping for 1 ratchet


Or

GearWrench 81298T 3 Pc. 1/4", 3/8" & 1/2" Drive 90-Tooth Dual Material Locking Flex Head Ratchet Set

GearWrench 81298T 3 Pc. Ratchet Set with 90-tooth gear offers a 4° swing arc, dual material grip, and locking flex-head for easy access in tight spaces.

gearwrenchshop.com

~ $126 US after coupon with free shipping for 3 locking flex head ratchets in 3 different drive sizes



The savings can be invested in equities, spent on taking the missus and child out for an ice cream, or on other needed materials and supplies.

One would need to be very dense to not see the advantages of the second option.

 

[Ditchdigger]

about 8 years ago I bought a Gearwrench 16" flex head 1/2" ratchet to fill that shaped void in my ratchet drawer, I just couldn't bring myself to spend THAT MUCH on another Snap on.
It just felt awful in comparison to all of my other Snapon ratchets so within 6 months I had shelled out over $200 for the SF80A and gave the gearwrench to one of my techs.
Buying the cheaper ratchet was a false economy for me.

Fast forward 8 years and my most used 1/2" ratchet is an ICON and that SF80A is only brought out for certain tasks where only it will fit

 

[CGarage]

about 8 years ago I bought a Gearwrench 16" flex head 1/2" ratchet to fill that shaped void in my ratchet drawer, I just couldn't bring myself to spend THAT MUCH on another Snap on.
It just felt awful in comparison to all of my other Snapon ratchets so within 6 months I had shelled out over $200 for the SF80A and gave the gearwrench to one of my techs.
Buying the cheaper ratchet was a false economy for me.

Fast forward 8 years and my most used 1/2" ratchet is an ICON and that SF80A is only brought out for certain tasks where only it will fit

I believe the Icon ratchets are made in Taiwan.
I do not own any other than the bit ratchet which is a must-have tool. I own a few Taiwan ratchets in 1/2” drive size including a flex head from Expert, owned by Facom. This is something Facom did not have an equivalent of a few years ago at the time I ordered. Taiwan quality is really nice in this modern era. They have a space program, and it is my belief that the indigenous tool production is a byproduct of a still unfinished industrialization that is underway throughout Asia.

 

[Dakotadadv8]

OP once you buy and use the Snap on SHRX80BG ratchet provide some feedback. I have the Snap on standard ratchet S80A and the extra long flex 24 SLF80A, have enjoyed using both ratchets. Like using the 1/2 drive as I get older when the battery nor air impact cannot be used.

 

[myusername]

GearWrench 81298T 3 Pc. 1/4", 3/8" & 1/2" Drive 90-Tooth Dual Material Locking Flex Head Ratchet Set

GearWrench 81298T 3 Pc. Ratchet Set with 90-tooth gear offers a 4° swing arc, dual material grip, and locking flex-head for easy access in tight spaces.

gearwrenchshop.com

~ $126 US after coupon with free shipping for 3 locking flex head ratchets in 3 different drive sizes

The savings can be invested in equities, spent on taking the missus and child out for an ice cream, or on other needed materials and supplies.

Buy the 3pce GW 90T locking flex set (or splurge a little more for the 120XP on sale). At that price it's very good value for money, you get what you pay for without the premium for the tool truck name. The only caveat is that IME the 90T range have inconsistent QC and those sets are encased in plastic so it's a gamble (loose anvils are not easily fixed, but floppy/loose heads can usually be sorted with some minor fettling).

You get 3x very decent ratchets, at a fraction of the cost. Perfect for DIY'er, good as a starter set for a professional. Even if you break one, buy a replacement same day while waiting on warranty, you're still far ahead $-wise and have a spare.

Down the track you can work out what ratchet you use most (anvil size, handle length, chrome/comfort, flex/locking/fixed), and treat yourself to a Snap On ratchet.

The expensive ratchets might be nicer, but they're not necessarily stronger. All >72 tooth ratchets with low-ish backdrag these days are excellent. The gap between box store and tool truck quality is getting smaller and smaller but the price difference is getting larger.

 

[CGarage]

I greatly prefer the 90T and 84T options from GW over the 120T product.

 

[AEAdam]

Physics is physics. The longer the ratchet, the more you will appreciate a higher quality ratchet. They flex less, work better, feel great, inspire confidence, require less effort.

Here’s “Adam’s guide to tool physics”:

When buying sockets:

• Expensive 1/4” drive
• Mid priced 3/8” drive
• Cheap 1/2” drive

When buying ratchets:

• Expensive long ratchets - my picks, SHLF80, FHLF80
• Mid priced std lengths. Or choose rotos, or buy used (actually always a good idea when rebuild kits are available)
• Cheap shorts or stubbies

One caveat: the need for low back drag can impact all ratchets (not so much the really long ones, but it can impact them) SUCH THAT, some of us end up with no cheap ratchets at all. But just for the physics part, no one needs really strong or fine toothed stubbies.

To the point, I would recommend the OP and everyone doing even occasional heavy mechanical work have a SHLF80A (buy on ebayj. But I don't think I’d recommend it’s 18” brother. You’ll never get close to maxing out that size. The Taiwan versions should be absolutely fine.

I also don’t know why one would choose an 18” ratchet over a 26” ratchet. A 26” ratchet requires 30% less force to generate the same torque as an 18”. Both are going to be clumsy for most jobs. I would just choose the longer one.

 

[Snaparxon]

In ten years you won't even remember you spent an extra $100 for the finest ratchet made anywhere.

@Farmer888 , buy a good used Snap on ratchet. Don't like it? Sell it and buy a GW or other brand.

There has been mention of throwing money away on a Snap on ratchet. I would guess a good used Snap on ratchet bought today would have the same or higher resale value years down the road.
Can't say it's a better tool than GW or others, but Snap on does hold it's value.

Scenario: After 30 years you retire, you have tool boxes full of tools to sell that you don't need anymore and time on your hands to sell them, would you rather have boxes full of Gear Wrench tools to sell or boxes full of Snap on tools to sell?

 

[zendriver]

Good to see this insightful thread being regurgitated.

 

[rsanter]

My snap on ratchets are my favorite, hands down.
if you want one then what the hell, treat yourself.

i have some gearwrench and I will,say they are really nice, no complaints.

how about you look at Williams…

 

[myusername]

I greatly prefer the 90T and 84T options from GW over the 120T product.

Apparently the new 120XP are an improvement, but I haven't seen great deals on them vs the 90T buying in/from Australia. What don't you like about the 120XP?

I have a ridiculously large selection of GW 90T ratchets as a local hardware store put the standard chrome handle versions on clearance when they stopped carrying GW (purchased 2x sets of 3 for <USD50/set), and then I picked up more when on sale at large discounts (eg 3pce comfort grip locking flex head set for ~USD115, and then chrome handle locking flex set for ~USD70 which was a deal I couldn't walk past)... then I filled in the gaps with the rest of the range as they went on sale over the last few years.

For the price of a single SnapOff comfort grip locking flex I bought more GW 90T ratchets than I will ever need. They're not perfect, a few have QC flaws that shouldn't have left the factory, but you can't argue against the value for money.

 

[myusername]

Scenario: After 30 years you retire, you have tool boxes full of tools to sell that you don't need anymore and time on your hands to sell them, would you rather have boxes full of Gear Wrench tools to sell or boxes full of Snap on tools to sell?

In my scenario, it's 1 SnapOn ratchet OR a full set of GW with spares for the same money. If you fill a box with SnapOn, you've far exceeded the amount you could spend on a box of other tools. The person who bought GW etc would have the extra money in their pocket/account.

After 30yrs, the used snap on tools are still worth less as they'll decline in value vs the original purchase cost when adjusted for inflation. You'd be better off buying the cheaper tools, and making an investment with compound interest if you're worried about financial position after 30yrs.

"Investing" in quality tools only makes a financial gain if it saves you money in the long run. In 15 years I've only broken 1 ratchet.

 

[CGarage]

In my scenario, it's 1 SnapOn ratchet OR a full set of GW with spares for the same money. If you fill a box with SnapOn, you've far exceeded the amount you could spend on a box of other tools. The person who bought GW etc would have the extra money in their pocket/account.

After 30yrs, the used snap on tools are still worth less as they'll decline in value vs the original purchase cost when adjusted for inflation. You'd be better off buying the cheaper tools, and making an investment with compound interest if you're worried about financial position after 30yrs.

"Investing" in quality tools only makes a financial gain if it saves you money in the long run. In 15 years I've only broken 1 ratchet.

I agree with your thinking.

As far as the 120XP, I feel the mechanism is “too fine”. The 84T / 90T feels ideal to me. The 120XP mechanism feels delicate. I have not broken one. My preferred GW is the 90T with comfort grip/soft handle. Locking flex head. I say this while owning many high end ratchets from US, Germany, France, Japan.

 

[51dueller]

In 30 years we may have 200 tooth ratchets with perfect back drag and how much interest will there really be in 72-90 tooth ratchets that may have discontinued rebuild kits. Currently you don't see people lining up to pay top dollar for 36 tooth Snap On ratchets.

I say buy a ratchet that makes you happy and gets the job done. Don't worry what it could be worth in the future.

 

[AEAdam]

In my scenario, it's 1 SnapOn ratchet OR a full set of GW with spares for the same money. If you fill a box with SnapOn, you've far exceeded the amount you could spend on a box of other tools. The person who bought GW etc would have the extra money in their pocket/account.

After 30yrs, the used snap on tools are still worth less as they'll decline in value vs the original purchase cost when adjusted for inflation. You'd be better off buying the cheaper tools, and making an investment with compound interest if you're worried about financial position after 30yrs.

"Investing" in quality tools only makes a financial gain if it saves you money in the long run. In 15 years I've only broken 1 ratchet.

I hear this said. And it's all theory. Honestly, I'm calling in BS. Nobody adjusts for inflation. No sane person is choosing between a tool, and a stock portfolio. What you don't spend on a tool when you are young, will get spent on something else. Honestly, if it was my kids, they'd blow it on food, music festivals, tennis shoes, etc etc.

For me, this is my reality right now. I'm getting older. I have 30 yr old snap on tools. I got tired of losing black tools in my black cars, so I bought this set of Snap On hard handle screwdrivers in 1995. Yellow for Father's Day. I didn't care at the time, I just didn't want black.


Just the hard handle set on the right hand side. They are 30yrs old. Worn, a little dirty, but their tips are good. I really don't use screwdrivers much anymore in automotive, or not as often as I did 30 yrs ago. What would you pay for that set? New, that's probably $300. My guess is, I could easily sell these for $100, which is more than I originally paid for them.

I could go through every drawer in my 3 toolboxes and we could have this exact same conversation. You guys write things you want to believe to be true. Honestly, I could probably sell all my tools today for more money than I paid for them. The toolbox alone I could probably sell for double what I paid for it.

This is my Bridgeport milling machine. I bought it for $500. It's 10X the machine any reasonably priced mill from Asia is.


This is a 1967 step pulley head with original flaking, repainted in the original color from 1967. I can move this and deliver it. What do you think its worth?

Point is: Tools aren't investments. But if you buy smart, you can have very nice tools all your life and either you or your heirs can sell them. On the flip side, you buy homeowner grade tools, second tier tools, use second grade tools all your life, and they are worth nothing at the end.

Suppose I wanted to pack up and move back to the UK. Forget the money. I could sell my tools. They won't go in a dumpster. Won't go to some unscrupulous picker/reseller.

In general, I would say this is the old European model. Buy one nice blazer that fits you well instead of 3 cheap suits. Buy one hand made pair of shoes and have them re-soled. Buy a wrist watch that becomes an heirloom.

You can take this too far, where you over spend on absolutely everything. But think about it. We live in a disposable society. We consume and throw away. You don't have to participate in that for everything. Paying a bit more for good quality is sometimes smart and it really can work out for you financially.

 

[myusername]

I agree with your thinking.

As far as the 120XP, I feel the mechanism is “too fine”. The 84T / 90T feels ideal to me. The 120XP mechanism feels delicate. I have not broken one. My preferred GW is the 90T with comfort grip/soft handle. Locking flex head. I say this while owning many high end ratchets from US, Germany, France, Japan.

The 120XP is a 60 tooth anvil gear. The gear and pawl teeth are not actually fine, but there are 2x stacked pawls so each one is thinner. The pawls alternate with a 50% overlap making it "feel" like 120 teeth, but in reality it is 2x60 tooth mechanisms alternating.

If the mechanism fails by sheering at the anvil like most quality ratchets, in theory it should be just as strong despite the "delicate" subjective feel. The teeth are coarser than a 90 tooth mechanism, so may actually be more resilient to wear, grit, swarf, etc.

I hear this said. And it's all theory. Honestly, I'm calling in BS. Nobody adjusts for inflation.

(RE: screwdrivers) What would you pay for that set? New, that's probably $300. My guess is, I could easily sell these for $100, which is more than I originally paid for them.

This is why I mentioned inflation, it directly applies to your chosen example, and is an example of why a basic understanding of inflation is important:

If you paid $100 30 years ago and sold them for $100 today, you lost well over 50% adjusted for inflation (as shown by you mentioning the set is $300 now, which suggest 2/3 value lost if sold today for $100, despite selling for the "same" price).

ie, the "more than i originally paid for them" comment is moot as it's not true when you consider inflation; $1 spent in 1995 is not the same value as $1 gained in 2025. It might feel good to sell something for the same price you bought it for 30yrs ago, but it's a fallacy.

This is my Bridgeport milling machine. I bought it for $500. It's 10X the machine any reasonably priced mill from Asia is.


This is a 1967 step pulley head with original flaking, repainted in the original color from 1967. I can move this and deliver it. What do you think its worth?

Point is: Tools aren't investments. But if you buy smart, you can have very nice tools all your life and either you or your heirs can sell them. On the flip side, you buy homeowner grade tools, second tier tools, use second grade tools all your life, and they are worth nothing at the end.

This is one example where buying a quality item is an investment: some things aren't made like they used to be, and are excellent second hand investments as they're already depreciated and will retain value.

Very nice Bridgeport you have there, I'd say you put >$2000 worth of skilled labour restoring it to make it look that nice, but we don't count our time in our hobbies

 

[AEAdam]

The 120XP is a 60 tooth anvil gear. The gear and pawl teeth are not actually fine, but there are 2x stacked pawls so each one is thinner. The pawls alternate with a 50% overlap making it "feel" like 120 teeth, but in reality it is 2x60 tooth mechanisms alternating.

If the mechanism fails by sheering at the anvil like most quality ratchets, in theory it should be just as strong despite the "delicate" subjective feel. The teeth are coarser than a 90 tooth mechanism, so may actually be more resilient to wear, grit, swarf, etc.




This is why I mentioned inflation, it directly applies to your chosen example, and is an example of why a basic understanding of inflation is important:

If you paid $100 30 years ago and sold them for $100 today, you lost well over 50% adjusted for inflation (as shown by you mentioning the set is $300 now, which suggest 2/3 value lost if sold today for $100, despite selling for the "same" price).

ie, the "more than i originally paid for them" comment is moot as it's not true when you consider inflation; $1 spent in 1995 is not the same value as $1 gained in 2025. It might feel good to sell something for the same price you bought it for 30yrs ago, but it's a fallacy.




This is one example where buying a quality item is an investment: some things aren't made like they used to be, and are excellent second hand investments as they're already depreciated and will retain value.

Very nice Bridgeport you have there, I'd say you put >$2000 worth of skilled labour restoring it to make it look that nice, but we don't count our time in our hobbies

Appreciate your response, but I think you are thinking about this wrong. Tools are not investments or savings accounts, they are depreciating assets, just like cars. Inflation plays a role, but not like you are thinking.

With depreciating assets, all that matters is the cost of ownership. I bought a car 10yrs ago for $25,000 that’s now worth $0. That car cost me $2500/yr to own, which actually isn’t that bad.

If I buy a set of screwdrivers for $75, use them for 30yrs, then because of inflation, the residual value of those screwdrivers is more than I paid, they cost me 0 to use and I may have made money if I sell for them for $100.

How can a $6000 toolbox be a smart buy? If you can use it for 20yrs then sell it for $6000, because new boxes like it are $10,000 in 20yrs.

To have use of a high end depreciating product (like my daily driver Porsche) that’s worth nearly what I paid for it after driving it for 12 yrs and 100k miles is a great financial move. The new Acura sedan I could have bought instead, would have been the more expensive purchase. The tools, the Porsche, were cost avoidances which is a little like making money (kinda sorta). My tools should have cost me $X/ yr to use and instead cost me $0.

Given the choice between a new HF US General tool box for $600 and a used Snap on toolbox for $1000, the snap on box will probably b cheaper to own.

If you are picking stocks or savings accounts, you pick the highest return that fits your risk tolerance. For depreciating assets, you want things that cost you the least to own. Expensive things could cost less to own than cheap things.

 

[Snaparxon]

If I buy a set of SNAP ON screwdrivers for $75, use them for 30yrs, AND DO NOT PUT ANY OWNERS MARKS ON THEM, then because of inflation, the residual value of those screwdrivers is more than I paid, they cost me 0 to use and I may have made money if I sell for them for $100.

This was my point but I don't explain things as well as you did. Thank you. I also added two important facts to your quote that are important.

 

[rooster59]

I would check the head size given the amount of clearance you need for the stuff you are working on. ‘66 Chevy pickup chassis stuff vs ‘25 Lexus. Compact head is real handy.

 

[L.Cheapo]

Appreciate your response, but I think you are thinking about this wrong. Tools are not investments or savings accounts, they are depreciating assets, just like cars. Inflation plays a role, but not like you are thinking.

With depreciating assets, all that matters is the cost of ownership. I bought a car 10yrs ago for $25,000 that’s now worth $0. That car cost me $2500/yr to own, which actually isn’t that bad.

If I buy a set of screwdrivers for $75, use them for 30yrs, then because of inflation, the residual value of those screwdrivers is more than I paid, they cost me 0 to use and I may have made money if I sell for them for $100.

How can a $6000 toolbox be a smart buy? If you can use it for 20yrs then sell it for $6000, because new boxes like it are $10,000 in 20yrs.

To have use of a high end depreciating product (like my daily driver Porsche) that’s worth nearly what I paid for it after driving it for 12 yrs and 100k miles is a great financial move. The new Acura sedan I could have bought instead, would have been the more expensive purchase. The tools, the Porsche, were cost avoidances which is a little like making money (kinda sorta). My tools should have cost me $X/ yr to use and instead cost me $0.

Given the choice between a new HF US General tool box for $600 and a used Snap on toolbox for $1000, the snap on box will probably b cheaper to own.

If you are picking stocks or savings accounts, you pick the highest return that fits your risk tolerance. For depreciating assets, you want things that cost you the least to own. Expensive things could cost less to own than cheap things.

To your point, the three Techangles and the BJP-1 I own are currently selling used on Ebay for more money than I paid for them new 7-10 years ago.

One could argue inflation/opportunity cost. I'd argue they've performed magnitudes more value in work than that over my ownership period. Plus the joy of using them, which you can't put a price on.

My dealer offered me a brand new KRL1023 shortly before covid. It had a 2" scratch on one drawer, a slight scuff on the back, and a small ding in one trim piece. $4000, full as-new warranty. The only reason I didn't buy it was because it was red and I didn't want red.

I'm still kicking myself over that.

 

[ChevyEFI]

1/2 + 1/4 is all that's needed.
There, thread is complete.

 

[myusername]

1/2 + 1/4 is all that's needed.
There, thread is complete.

... and I guess you recommend OP just uses a claw hammer too, all the specialist hammers are just Big Tool emptying your pockets

 

[ChevyEFI]

... and I guess you recommend OP just uses a claw hammer too, all the specialist hammers are just Big Tool emptying your pockets

Yeah. Except for flat-rate guys trying to lighten the load and do everything w/3/8 where possible.

I don't find 3/8" spark plug sockets necessary. I doubt the 3/8" lug nut sockets offered now will go super common. And most bit sockets could be split like I suggested.

I just thought of a possible new tool product. Thanks.

 

[AEAdam]

This was my point but I don't explain things as well as you did. Thank you. I also added two important facts to your quote that are important.

Agree, to get the best resale price, don’t mark your tools and keep the original packaging if at all possible.

Regarding ratchet purchases and Project Farm reviews, I bought the cheapest F80 ratchet I could find on eBay. I think it was $40 + shipping. It was scratched up a bit, dull, but undamaged, no rust or flaking. My idea was to replace the guts and have a “beater ratchet” that functioned like new.

Just for grins, I decided to disassemble it, clean it really well, re-lube and re-assembled it. The ratchet probably belonged to a pro who upgraded to a new tool. It was very worn. Reassembled, the ratchet had amazing feel. Light back drag, light clicking sound.

1) I think dual80 ratchets at least have a break in period. I think they work better with use.
2) I feel as tho used ratchets represent amazing deals, especially if rebuild kits exist. I really am not sure why any of us should be paying retail for new ratchets when we can find what we want second hand. Especially if, as I suggested, we might prefer the feel of worn ratchets.