Reed Prince
Well-known member
There weren't any links in that response, but earlier in the conversation about these pliers Gemini referenced the Alloy Artifacts JIS and the Alloy Artifacts Japanese Tool Manufacturer web pages.
Tools of Japan
- Thread starter Frankstools
- Start date
Dave455
Well-known member
I realise I’m a bit late to this party, and the OP has acquired a pair, but I thought I’d mention these Tsunoda SPL-200.My 30 plus year old Craftsman slip joint pliers, on the right have lost their grip so I bought a pair of Wilde 8 inch G263FP.NP/CC Flush pliers and I am not impressed, the jaws are crooked and the finish is poor.
Any recommendations for a Japanese slip joint around 8 inches?
I bought these as I don’t have many slip joint pliers, and prefer pliers without grips in some situations (better to carry around).
The quality of these is incredibly high, and they were little money - I think the equivalent of about $12!
Possibly a little more rugged than the ones the OP acquired, and a subtly different jaw shape from the ones Steel Rain showed.
Yes, the jaws are asymmetric, but the design seems to work incredibly well. I have ended up carrying these in my travel bag, as the design seems to be so versatile.
rick carpenter
Well-known member
Iman Nagura 6000, King 220, and King 1000/6000. Flattening the back of my 1" chisel, I'm a little surprised at how slow the 220 cuts.
Has anyone actually tried using the KOKEN Wobble-Fix with Semi-Deep and Deep Z-EAL (Z-series) sockets?
I recall hearing that when using the KOKEN Wobble-Fix with Standard Z-EAL (Z-series) sockets, some smaller sizes experienced functional issues. Does anyone have direct experience with this or know of any discussion threads or articles about it?
Specifically:
If you’ve tried this combination, or have seen reports online, I’d really appreciate it if you could share your experience. Any tips, warnings, or links to discussions would be super helpful!
I recall hearing that when using the KOKEN Wobble-Fix with Standard Z-EAL (Z-series) sockets, some smaller sizes experienced functional issues. Does anyone have direct experience with this or know of any discussion threads or articles about it?
Specifically:
- Has anyone encountered compatibility or functional problems when using the Wobble-Fix with Semi-Deep Z-EAL sockets?
- Has anyone encountered similar issues with Deep Z-EAL sockets?
If you’ve tried this combination, or have seen reports online, I’d really appreciate it if you could share your experience. Any tips, warnings, or links to discussions would be super helpful!
Attachments
ronkz650
Well-known member
The 3/8 wobble fix extensions work with any of the Zeal sockets OK. The 1/4 wobble fix bars work OK on the semi deep and deep sockets, but the short zeal sockets don’t mate up well so you're mostly stuck in wobble position. Thw wobble fix of either drive don’t work well with any of the hex bit sockets. I don't particularly like the wobble fix and bought the standard bars. They are a lot better for me at least.
NitroExpress
Well-known member
This seems a good price ($44) on a Ko-Ken 3/8” drive 7” ratchet. I placed an order, so we’ll see if it’s legitimate.
NightSky
Well-known member
It does look like a good price. Amazon's price history shows that this is at the 30 and 90 day lows. However, in that time frame it's only been as high as ~$50. It's available from HJ Epstein for $61.20 (after the 15% discount they are currently offering on the Koken products they stock) plus shipping. I paid $67 for the 3725ZB version a year ago from Koken USA, after a 25% discount they were offering at the time.
rick carpenter
Well-known member
Got the rest of my sharpening stuff, and a bit more, in today. The Atlin guide is Taiwanese but several reputable folk use it after judicious filing mods. Interestingly, the instructions expressly say not to file these. I chucked my 1-7/8" chisel in and yup it need the mods. My BeaverCraft stropping leather is Ukrainian. They need every little bit of support possible. I figure these two can be included here because they are for my waterstones. Hence the Suehiro nagura stone. The Ranshou 120mm saw is nice. The wisteria wood handle wasn't finished in any way but after a coupla coats of lacquer all is good. After lots of advice from y'all and thought, I went with the Tsunoda PW-DP200TGs. I like the shear cutters and the regular cutters. Never was a fan of clunky handles, but these feel pretty good in hand.
I am curious about the rubbing contact point above the cutting surfaces on the shears tho. I can hear the click when contact is made and there are corresponding rubbing marks on the other side. Is this normal and just a consequence of how tight shear surfaces need to be?
I am curious about the rubbing contact point above the cutting surfaces on the shears tho. I can hear the click when contact is made and there are corresponding rubbing marks on the other side. Is this normal and just a consequence of how tight shear surfaces need to be?
I am curious about the rubbing contact point above the cutting surfaces on the shears tho. I can hear the click when contact is made and there are corresponding rubbing marks on the other side. Is this normal and just a consequence of how tight shear surfaces need to be?
I think that's normal, as long as the click isn't overly dramatic. On my pair I can feel a click if I torque the handles ever so lightly. I'm no expert but I think all shear cutters have this issue where the tips have to meet and it's better to have them a little too tight than too loose. You can see they deliberately grind a small flat at the tip to allow the surfaces to align. I checked my other shear cutters (big Kleins), and they're ground the same way.
Here are my Tsunodas - these are pretty new and have seen maybe 100-200 cuts on things like thermostat wires and automotive wiring.
rick carpenter
Well-known member
Thanks, that makes sense. I don't believe I've ever been dissatisfied with anything Tsunoda.I think that's normal, as long as the click isn't overly dramatic. On my pair I can feel a click if I torque the handles ever so lightly. I'm no expert but I think all shear cutters have this issue where the tips have to meet and it's better to have them a little too tight than too loose. You can see they deliberately grind a small flat at the tip to allow the surfaces to align. I checked my other shear cutters (big Kleins), and they're ground the same way.
Here are my Tsunodas - these are pretty new and have seen maybe 100-200 cuts on things like thermostat wires and automotive wiring.
CHI_Tool&Die
Well-known member
For the Ko-ken gurus, I need a 14mm and a 19mm double square (8point) socket. I was looking through the catalog and didn’t see anything. 3/8” or 1/2” drive would work. Chrome would be ideal as I’m using it on hand ratchets to open and close vises at work. I have SAE Snap-on ones but they are starting to distort the vise. Any suggestions as to a part number? Thanks guys!
Dave455
Well-known member
For reasons best known to KoKen, the 1/2” drive double square sockets (which these sizes are) are listed under “Automotive Tools” rather than with the 1/2” drive.
Part No’s you need are a 4109M-14 and 4109M-19
CHI_Tool&Die
Well-known member
Thank you!For reasons best known to KoKen, the 1/2” drive double square sockets (which these sizes are) are listed under “Automotive Tools” rather than with the 1/2” drive.
Part No’s you need are a 4109M-14 and 4109M-19
From Koken: the 13142-D6.3 is a 3/8" drive impact bit holder. It will hold and lock onto both the C6 and E6 bits even though I think they intended it to be used only with C6 bits. They make a second similar bit holder, the 13142-F6.3, also 3/8" drive which locks on the only E6 bits.
These are both non-quick insert. You have to lift the knurled collar to both insert and remove the bits. As these are impact holders, both of these have detent pin holes on two of the four drive sides. The other two sides are smooth.
You can see here the "bit channel" is deeper in the F6.3 than the D6.3 so a C6 bit sinks in quite a bit into the F6.3 holder. The C6 bit does not lock in place, you can pull it out with your fingers. If you were only grabbing one of these, I would just get the D6.3 as it locks onto C6 and E6 bits, though the E6 bits do extend out quite a bit.
Here is both bit holders with some Dewalt PH1 C6 and E6 bits.
Here is the D6.3 with a C6 bit
and with a E6 bit, note how far it sticks out, it is locked here and cannot be removed without lifting the collar.
And the F6.3 with a C6 bit, you can pull this out with some pliers, it does not lock
And then the F6.3 with the E6 bit
These are both non-quick insert. You have to lift the knurled collar to both insert and remove the bits. As these are impact holders, both of these have detent pin holes on two of the four drive sides. The other two sides are smooth.
You can see here the "bit channel" is deeper in the F6.3 than the D6.3 so a C6 bit sinks in quite a bit into the F6.3 holder. The C6 bit does not lock in place, you can pull it out with your fingers. If you were only grabbing one of these, I would just get the D6.3 as it locks onto C6 and E6 bits, though the E6 bits do extend out quite a bit.
Here is both bit holders with some Dewalt PH1 C6 and E6 bits.
Here is the D6.3 with a C6 bit
and with a E6 bit, note how far it sticks out, it is locked here and cannot be removed without lifting the collar.
And the F6.3 with a C6 bit, you can pull this out with some pliers, it does not lock
And then the F6.3 with the E6 bit
Steel_Rain
Well-known member
- Joined
- Apr 23, 2024
- Messages
- 1,359
Paging @Dave455 to answer this question…
That said…I can tell you I own several of these and they are excellent quality:
Pared with a KTC long, rotohead for the win!
Dave455
Well-known member
Sadly I have no idea!Paging @Dave455 to answer this question…
That said…I can tell you I own several of these and they are excellent quality:
Pared with a KTC long, rotohead for the win!
Although I’m a lover of Japanese tools, I don't often work on Japanese vehicles, so I’m not even familiar with the problem that the paper filter wrenches solve.
Your KTC filter wrenches look good though….
Some newer Toyotas have a glass reinforced nylon cup that you unscrew to swap out a paper filter element inside. The tool is just a socket to turn that reusable housing. You can use a regular filter socket to turn the housing in a pinch but the proper tool has fingers that reach down and engage some splines for a better grip.
It's a good system when properly installed but the housing can get chewed up if someone really ugga-duggas them. In this case, the nylon is sacrificial (vs the aluminum threads attached to the engine). A lot of the housings also have a drain plug in the bottom so you can pre-drain the contents before removing.
Some motorcycles or vintage vehicles also use paper elements with various retention/housing methods, it's the same stuff inside a common spin-on metal filter anyway.
Dave455
Well-known member
Thanks for the explanation.
Two of my own vehicles (BMW’s) have paper cartridge filters, but they are not difficult to remove, provided you have a 36mm socket for the housing lid.
KoKen make dedicated sockets for the purpose.
For canister filters, unmentionable though it is in the “Japanese Tools” thread, I am able to deal with the majority using my Facom filter wrench. A superb tool.
On the occasions that won’t fit, an even more unmentionable procedure involving a crappy screwdriver and a hammer is involved. My only problem is finding a crappy screwdriver…..!
kngelv
Well-known member
Today's arrivals. Some decent bits and scissors.
James
James
kinglukas38
Active member
An amazon box from across the pond arrived at my doorstep today. I've been hunting for the 5700wp for a while but could never pull the trigger on one from an NA vendor. The IPS pliers filled the long reach category for my toolbox so they also got the nod. Now the vessel bit holders are a bit of an odd one, I'm sure I only paid for 1 set but much to my surprise a whole box came. Either these are super cheap on amazon Japan or someone made a little oppsie poopsie, not that I'm complaining either way
Found this interesting tool of Japan at an estate sale I went past earlier.
It's triple marked "Kowa" "Koken" and “HM" (Honda Motors).
Kowa is the traditional supplier of Honda factory equipment and it looks like they contracted Koken for the production of this particular tool.
Most likely it was designed for motorcycle clutch service but Honda automobiles use the same pattern on the rear brake caliper pistons. (Piston has to wind in instead of pressing because it is attached to the parking brake mechanism).
Bonus bicycle of Japan
It's triple marked "Kowa" "Koken" and “HM" (Honda Motors).
Kowa is the traditional supplier of Honda factory equipment and it looks like they contracted Koken for the production of this particular tool.
Most likely it was designed for motorcycle clutch service but Honda automobiles use the same pattern on the rear brake caliper pistons. (Piston has to wind in instead of pressing because it is attached to the parking brake mechanism).
Bonus bicycle of Japan
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four.cycle
Well-known member
kinglukas38
Active member
thats a bit of news to me, not sure what these have gone for historically but I paid ¥1,115 for what I thought was a single pack. Looks like they are up slightly since then to a whopping ¥1,227
four.cycle
Well-known member
^ I never bought any of those, but the screwdrivers I DID buy appear to have gone up about 30% in the last 6 months or so.
Maybe only in the US? The pre-tariff stock is going fast.
four.cycle
Well-known member
I gave that 8-piece MegaDora set to my buddy last year for Christmas (2024) and a pair of those fancy "trim tools" that Vessel makes.
The screwdriver set was just a bit over $50 bucks, and the trim tools were about $28. (both from BowersTool.com)
The screwdriver I bought a couple months ago was a 250P2100 and was exactly $19.67 with tax and shipping. (ordered 11/06/25)
I've directed new users to the Vessel P2 ball grip, and I seem to recall prices being in the neighborhood of $11-$13 including shipping.
Now I can't find one for less than about $16-$18.
This one I can order online for $8.09, but they won't tell me shipping costs without filling out in all of their little boxes, which I refuse to do unless actually making a purchase.
Tractor Supply advertises it for $9.99, but driving back and forth to Tractor Supply at 112th & Canyon is almost a two-hour drive from here and will cost me about $12.00 in gas money.
The screwdriver set was just a bit over $50 bucks, and the trim tools were about $28. (both from BowersTool.com)
The screwdriver I bought a couple months ago was a 250P2100 and was exactly $19.67 with tax and shipping. (ordered 11/06/25)
I've directed new users to the Vessel P2 ball grip, and I seem to recall prices being in the neighborhood of $11-$13 including shipping.
Now I can't find one for less than about $16-$18.
This one I can order online for $8.09, but they won't tell me shipping costs without filling out in all of their little boxes, which I refuse to do unless actually making a purchase.
Tractor Supply advertises it for $9.99, but driving back and forth to Tractor Supply at 112th & Canyon is almost a two-hour drive from here and will cost me about $12.00 in gas money.
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NightSky
Well-known member
They wanted state and zip to calculate shipping... $10.99 to ship to SW OH from Columbus, but probably about the same to ship elsewhere in the US. More than I would pay, unless I really wanted it!
Vessel makes so many screwdrivers I’m not sure these are the right ones, but they are the same price as 3 years ago when I bought some-$9. This may be pre tariff stock.
I was looking for a hard handle quick release bit screwdriver and came across the Engineer interchangeable drivers. It turns out they use a strange chuck, so I'm still looking, but I did see a curious product image. Any guesses as to what Engineer was trying to show here?
Ohio Andy
Well-known member
Very nice..I was looking for a hard handle quick release bit screwdriver and came across the Engineer interchangeable drivers. It turns out they use a strange chuck, so I'm still looking, but I did see a curious product image. Any guesses as to what Engineer was trying to show here?
Malco makes a couple models also.. for example,
NitroExpress
Well-known member
My first Keiba Pliers. I will use them mostly for fence work. First impression without using them - very highly quality! Ordered from DRPD.
Also, I google translated some of the packaging that indicates you can arrange for tours of their factory. I vote a Garage Journal member in Japan check this out and report back!
Ohio Andy
Well-known member
Don't tell my wife she would rope me into going to Japan with her.... So where in Japan?
NitroExpress
Well-known member
The Keiba pliers factory is located in Sanjo City, Niigata Prefecture, Japan.
From the translated text:
The image displays promotional and informational material for KEIBA brand tools, manufactured by Marutoloy, highlighting their integrated production process and high quality. The text details the materials used, the rigorous quality control, and even offers factory tours.
- KEIBA tools are made through more than 50 precise steps, with all main processes handled in-house.
- The tools use CR-V70C chrome vanadium steel, described as the highest quality material from Kobe Steel, Ltd.
- Care instructions and safety warnings are provided, including the necessity of wearing protective eyewear during use.
- Factory tours (by reservation) are offered to see processes like forging and blade sharpening.
KEIBA tools are made by stacking more than 50 precise steps. All main processes are performed in-house, and thorough quality control is carried out.
OPEN FACTORY
Factory tours are available. On the tour, you can see the craftsmanship up close, such as "forging" the steel and "sharpening" the blades by hand. For more information, please contact us at the details below (reservations required, 9:00-12:00, 13:00-16:00, excluding Saturdays, Sundays, and public holidays).
MARUTOLOY
CR-V70C
CR-V70C Chrome Vanadium Steel
Highest quality material from Kobe Steel, Ltd.
We use chrome vanadium steel.
LWB
Well-known member
Just some bits. I may get another set of just #2's
Nobody-named-Olli
Well-known member
I was looking for a hard handle quick release bit screwdriver and came across the Engineer interchangeable drivers. It turns out they use a strange chuck, so I'm still looking, but I did see a curious product image. Any guesses as to what Engineer was trying to show here?
Can you please post a link for that product?
If you zoom into the handle, you can see a spring - and there needs to be more stuff in between - as well as a metal plate where the thumb is. So my guess is, it’s a “voltage tester“ - very interesting to see that in such a driver, no insulation except the handle itself. A lot of metal exposed for a tool like that. Need’s a very conscious user if it is what it seems to be.
In general, they have a use for determining which wire is hot on a switched circuit, and before Wago, they would then have been used to screw down the terminals while installing a light fixture.
They are not a safe way to determine if voltage is present or not, as the body is used as part to complete the circuit, and if you would happen to be isolated either through shoes or what your standing on, it would not light up and make you think there is no voltage present.
Here’s a modern/ latest variant of such a tool.
Show us your pb swiss tools!
Looking at bit holding screwdrivers, what would you go for? I have one of all common bits in 89mm, and multiples of everything else in 25mm. Don't really want to go buying more in 50mm, although I do have impact ones. 8451 short (32mm shaft, 135mm overall) - short, but a little longer than my...
www.garagejournal.com
It’s a tool in a box of many, has it’s uses if you know about it’s limitations. The one you pictured is rather interesting, very interested in the product link, please share.
Kind regards,
Olli
Nobody-named-Olli
Well-known member
Thanks for sharing! Really intriguing, I think I will try and source a DK-06 set, have to have one.
Kind regards,
Olli
Kind regards,
Olli