Attaching Door Jambs to Cinder Block Wall

[hankthecowdog]

The carriage doors in my garage are mounted to jambs that are pulling away from the cinder block wall structure they are mounted to. I’m trying to determine the best approach for re-securing jambs to the cinder block. The best idea I’ve come up with so far is to pump grout into the cavities closest to the jambs and, once cured, install wedge anchors through the jambs into the (now filled) cells. Pumping the grout into cavities sounds like a huge mess, but I’m leery of Tapcons or sleeve anchors for the amount of force that will be applied to the jambs from the heavy carriage doors opening and closing. Thoughts on best practices?

 

[DGersic]

Are those door jambs attached to anything other than the block? Can they be attached to the floor and whatever structure is above the block wall?

Jambs look like a 4x4 post. Maybe consider making that an L shape with a 2x8 and construction screws to wrap around the corner in to the garage.

In the second picture, is that a bolt? Anchor? Something sticking in to the block, which has enlarged its hole over time.

 

[hankthecowdog]

Are those door jambs attached to anything other than the block? Can they be attached to the floor and whatever structure is above the block wall?

Jambs look like a 4x4 post. Maybe consider making that an L shape with a 2x8 and construction screws to wrap around the corner in to the garage.

In the second picture, is that a bolt? Anchor? Something sticking in to the block, which has enlarged its hole over time.

Yes! Great idea to tie the jambs into the surrounding structure. Unfortunately the concrete slab is not in great shape, so anchoring the jambs to it probably wouldn't help. However I do think I could tie them into the structure above. Wrapping them around the corner is a great idea. How would you attach the face of the 2x8 to the cinder block? In the second picture, I believe those are very old bolts which have definitely enlarged the hole it's in to the point that it's no longer secure at all.

 

[Uncle murph]

The carriage doors in my garage are mounted to jambs that are pulling away from the cinder block wall structure they are mounted to. I’m trying to determine the best approach for re-securing jambs to the cinder block. The best idea I’ve come up with so far is to pump grout into the cavities closest to the jambs and, once cured, install wedge anchors through the jambs into the (now filled) cells. Pumping the grout into cavities sounds like a huge mess, but I’m leery of Tapcons or sleeve anchors for the amount of force that will be applied to the jambs from the heavy carriage doors opening and closing. Thoughts on best practices?

Properly installed tapcons will pull through the board before they lose their hold in block. I wouldn’t use anything else.

 

[hankthecowdog]

Properly installed tapcons will pull through the board before they lose their hold in block. I wouldn’t use anything else.

How would you go about installing tapcons in hollow block?

 

[Uncle murph]

How would you go about installing tapcons in hollow block?

For 2x lumber I use 1/4 x 2 3/4 screws.As long as you use the right drill bit you have at least one inch of solid material for the screw threads to bite into.

 

[DGersic]

Properly installed tapcons will pull through the board before they lose their hold in block. I wouldn’t use anything else.

How are tapcons at holding a heavy weight in single shear?

 

[DGersic]

Yes! Great idea to tie the jambs into the surrounding structure. Unfortunately the concrete slab is not in great shape, so anchoring the jambs to it probably wouldn't help. However I do think I could tie them into the structure above. Wrapping them around the corner is a great idea. How would you attach the face of the 2x8 to the cinder block? In the second picture, I believe those are very old bolts which have definitely enlarged the hole it's in to the point that it's no longer secure at all.

Possibly replace the jams and sink them like fence posts in concrete.

Tapcons may be the best answer. I don’t know of a better way to attach something to concrete. I just don’t like them being used in shear, where the opening of the door wants to move them side to side.

 

[Hank11]

Epoxy might be your friend for this job. Full coverage for the part that wraps inside. And a few tapcons to hold everything still while the epoxy cures. Use KDAT (kiln dried after treatment) lumber.

 

[hankthecowdog]

Some good ideas here... I believe I will try using t-anchors (or McMaster Carr carries what they call toggle anchors) to secure the existing jambs to the cinder block and wrap around the corner with an additional 2x8" as DGersic suggests. I'll also see if I can't tie the header into the structure above the cinder block

 

[finn]

Falcons. The concept seems sketchy, but they have always worked for me.

GRK makes some gnarled screws for concrete, too.

 

[tarbellb]

Quick but temporary solution- Toggle bolts and tapcons

Long-term solution - pull the doors, run a jack stud using toggle bolts and anchored top n bottom
Also attach to jack stud a interior board that parallels to cinder block walls, attach using toggle bolts (think L shaped on each side of opening)

trim door width to match new opening size and attach to wood

 

[tarbellb]

Or skin the interior wood face to be flush with cinder block face

Plumb doors

Run a wide plate or sheet to anchor into face of cinder blocks and toggle bolt to interior face

 

[Rusted Nut]

Pumping grout in will work. T bolts don’t work well in cinder blocks. Ungrouted cinder blocks are pretty weak.

 

[KenC]

Ideally, one would fill the block face that meets the jamb so it is flush and smooth. Next step, use toggle bolt to reattach in the existing holes. Now the clamping force doesn't try to pull the blocks web into the void.

Next shim both inside and outside faces of the jamb flush with the block using pressure treated material ripped to the exact size needed.'

Now tie the modified jamb to both the inside and outside faces of the block. 2x isn't needed. I'd use something like Smart side 6" material. Looks better, plenty strong, allows use of shorter Tapcons(or other brand) and with both sides tied and in shear it should be good forever.