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Disconnect recommendations or preferences

whateg01

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I know when it comes to service panels there's a lot of preferences. Does that exist in disconnect too? I'm getting ready to connect my new mini split but haven't picked up the disconnect. Thought I would buy square D but Menards does not seem to have much there. Yeah I can go elsewhere if I need to. Aside from amperage, what should I care about?
 
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dscheidt

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I don't recall that. I'll have to double check

You need to look at the label on the machine, not anything else. Manuals and customer service do not make the rule, the equipment label does. It's very common for the manual, web, and customer service people to say the exact opposite of what the tag says.

Barring a reason for something else, I use what is on the shelf locally that has spare fuses available. Buy a spare set. you'll probably never need them, but you won't ever say "gee, why did I buy these?". Also, consider a surge protector in the disconnect box.
 
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whateg01

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You need to look at the label on the machine, not anything else. Manuals and customer service do not make the rule, the equipment label does. It's very common for the manual, web, and customer service people to say the exact opposite of what the tag says.

Barring a reason for something else, I use what is on the shelf locally that has spare fuses available. Buy a spare set. you'll probably never need them, but you won't ever say "gee, why did I buy these?". Also, consider a surge protector in the disconnect box.
I've never used a surge protector, other than the power strip type for a computer or similar. I'll have to look into those. Are they specific to a particular brand or to specific disconnect boxes?
 

WildBill

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I've never used a surge protector, other than the power strip type for a computer or similar. I'll have to look into those. Are they specific to a particular brand or to specific disconnect boxes?
You must put one on a minisplit unless you want to replace control boards on a regular bases, they are really sensitive to any sort of power surge. Here is one I have used a lot. You mount it at the disconnect.

 

WildBill

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If you are installing a surge protector on the disconnect, be mindful of how you wire it.

Not all of the disconnects are rated for 2 wires under a lug (double tap).
Good call, I usually get the ones with the extra set of lugs if possible. Or make sure its rated for two wires.
 

larry4406

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Thats funny, just stuck that in another thread. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008VM6MXI?tag=atomicindus08-20
That's the surge protector I installed at our outdoor disconnect for the AC.

At the time, I could not confirm that the disconnect was rated for double tap. Reached out to the manufacturer and they said they would get back to me. I bailed and used a pigtail with proper wire nuts. Couple weeks later, manufacturer said the had retested and relisted with UL and sent me revised torque specs for double tap!

These devices are becoming more common. My opinion is that disconnect manufacturers should be looking to accommodate them via permitted double tap and/or dual lugs.
 

Codyboy

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My outside unit , I bought whatever they had which I think was Midwest? Has a duck on it.
It's just a pill out disconnect.
The circuit is protected by the breaker in the panel.
 
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whateg01

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My outside unit , I bought whatever they had which I think was Midwest? Has a duck on it.
It's just a pill out disconnect.
The circuit is protected by the breaker in the panel.
Why, if there's a circuit breaker is a fuse also necessary sometimes? Just because the OEM specified one?
 
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Codyboy

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Why, if there's a circuit breaker is a fuse also necessary sometimes? Just because the OEM specified one?
No idea what you're talking about.
There's no fuses on mine. Just a pill out with blades.
Pull out, leave out or flip it over = disconnected
 

mike93lx

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Why, if there's a circuit breaker is a fuse also necessary sometimes? Just because the OEM specified one?
A circuit breaker and a fuse function differently.

Also, the switch in a disconnect is not a circuit breaker, usually. It's just a switch and is often rated well higher than the circuit it, plus many are just pull out devices
 
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whateg01

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Ok. I do understand that a fuse and cb behave differently.

Seems crazy that a device could need multiple different ways for the circuit to open. Cb, fuse, and disconnect.
 

PCustoms

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Ok. I do understand that a fuse and cb behave differently.

Seems crazy that a device could need multiple different ways for the circuit to open. Cb, fuse, and disconnect.

It's a little crazy, but bottom line, NEC says go by the MFG nameplate.

If it says "fuse", it needs a fuse at the disconnect. Don't go by manuals, they are often wrong and the nameplate what the NEC references.
 

Steve_P

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Another vote for a surge protector- A friend with a mini split lost a $500+ control board before he installed one, and it took months to get the new board.
 

paulsomlo

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I just bought one of these at Lowes: https://www.lowes.com/pd/GE-60-Amp-1-Pole-Non-fusible-Disconnect/5004009887

The cover doesn't seem to close completely without coercion, but it was heavily marked down to $41.97. If it had been full price at $69.98, I wouldn't be happy with it. If you have a GFI outlet nearby, you may be able to get away with a plain disconnect, no GFI, and much cheaper.
 

dscheidt

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The breaker exists to protect the wiring. The fuse is being spec'd to protect the equipment. Disconnect is to make servicing it safe

Yes. The wire won't be hurt if it has pretty substantial overcurrent for a fairly lengthy time (a squareD circuit breaker will pass 2 times its rated current for 100 seconds before it trips, and 5 times for 10. That's on breakers that made their name as "quick open"! The relevant UL standard allows longer times. That lets things like incandescent lightbulbs and motors, both of which have much larger startup current requirements than steady state, get going without tripping the breaker. And why motor and HVAC circuits are allowed to have breakers bigger than would normally be allowed for the wire size.), the breaker just has to trip before it melts. The machine, on the other hand, might well be damaged if it draws excessive current, even momentarily, so a fast blow fuse protects it from that. It's also common to install a unit on an existing disconnect that uses less power than the old one, and in new construction, the wiring is often done by someone who doesn't know what was speced, so they often use the largest reasonable circuit breaker, and the fuse in the disconnect is properly sized when the installation is done. All that said, I suspect the reason that lots of chinese mad stuff is still calling for fuses is because the importers don't care to push the manufacturer to fix their nameplates.

Also: you need a receptacle within 25' of the disconnect, on the same level. There are disconnects with them built in, but I've always either used an existing outlet, extended an existing circuit outside, or pulled new wire in the conduit feeding hte disco.
 
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whateg01

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Also: you need a receptacle within 25' of the disconnect, on the same level. There are disconnects with them built in, but I've always either used an existing outlet, extended an existing circuit outside, or pulled new wire in the conduit feeding hte disco.
120v (or 110 for wiley...)? Assuming that is also for service?
 
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whateg01

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Yes on both.

I'd also want a spigot reasonably accessible, if possible, to make cleaning easy
I have a spigot on the house about 15' away. I have a receptacle on the outside of the garage around the corner from the mini split. By same level, do you mean 1st floor vs 2nd floor, etc?
 

Norcal

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I prefer a safety switch, but the draw back is they cost more.
 
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