OP
zmotorsports
ALLIANCE MEMBER
I need to quit hanging out with ya'll on this forum........
ZMotorsports Shop Projects 2.0
- Thread starter zmotorsports
- Start date
rattle_snake
Well-known member
Says the man guilty as anyone here for influencing others into tool purchases.
OP
zmotorsports
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Boosted1
Well-known member
Can't wait to see the first use of your new tool!
Looks like you got a nice cleaner.
Looks like you got a nice cleaner.
ntsqd
Well-known member
On the hitch muffler topic, in a couple very specific applications I drill 33/64's hole thru the whole hitch from top to bottom with the slider in place. Then a 1/2" G8 bolt and nylock permanently stops any rattling. In those cases I also use a 5/8" G8 bolt & nylock for the hitch pin. It's not for everyone or every need, but it works well.
I've also done the single set-bolt, both in the hitch directly and in a cantilevered arm welded to the bottom of the slider. The cantilevered option works well enough for something like a "Wheel-less Trailer" or a bike rack, but not for anything heavier or more highly loaded.
I would vastly prefer to just use properly sized pintle hitches and lunettes, but it's hard to walk away from the utility of a socket receiver.
I've also done the single set-bolt, both in the hitch directly and in a cantilevered arm welded to the bottom of the slider. The cantilevered option works well enough for something like a "Wheel-less Trailer" or a bike rack, but not for anything heavier or more highly loaded.
I would vastly prefer to just use properly sized pintle hitches and lunettes, but it's hard to walk away from the utility of a socket receiver.
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bugnut
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Enjoy the ulrasonic, says the guy who just ordered fluid film-i believe what does around comes around........
OP
zmotorsports
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Thanks guys. Nothing specific planned for cleaning yet, just that I have been waffling over one for several years and with the tractor project coming up it might be a nice tool for that project.
Grant Gunderson
Well-known member
Mike, you are going to love the ultrasonic.
I’ve had the larger one for a while now and it’s been a work horse. These all seem to be made by the same outfit and rebranded. My bearing supplier just gave me the small unit. I was always under the impression that you shouldn’t put bearings in an ultrasonic, but they assured me that they recommend it for their ceramic bearings and Sprague clutches prior to regressing. So the usage range for these just increased for me. For larger parts I just use water with a healthy pour of purple degreaser. For the bearings I just use straight aircraft grade simple green and it’s amazing how well it works.
I’ve had the larger one for a while now and it’s been a work horse. These all seem to be made by the same outfit and rebranded. My bearing supplier just gave me the small unit. I was always under the impression that you shouldn’t put bearings in an ultrasonic, but they assured me that they recommend it for their ceramic bearings and Sprague clutches prior to regressing. So the usage range for these just increased for me. For larger parts I just use water with a healthy pour of purple degreaser. For the bearings I just use straight aircraft grade simple green and it’s amazing how well it works.
OP
zmotorsports
ALLIANCE MEMBER
So this will be very picture heavy over the next several posts. I will try to explain what I am trying to accomplish and the reasons why, although not sure anyone really cares about my reasons, you guys just want to see work being done. 
I've been working on a "want" project over the past couple of nights. This "want" project is one that I have wanted to try to incorporate into my Jeep for the past 7 years and 80k miles, ever since I swapped in the 6.2 liter LS engine and 6L80 transmission.
Let me preface with saying that the OEM Jeep shifter in conjunction with the GM six-speed (6L80) transmission has worked well. The detents in the shifter have aligned perfectly with the transmission detents in the rooster comb, then when I want to pull the GM transmission back into the manual gate, I simply pull the Jeep shifter back into the "2" position on the shifter when I want to enter the GM manual gate function. From there I have a momentary toggle switch mounted in the dash just above my right knee that I use to toggle up and down through the gears. This has worked flawlessly for the past 80k miles and I use the manual gate heavily when off-road.
However, I really wanted the option of having the ability to toggle up/down through the gears through a shifter mounted option, much like the 2012+ Jeep Wranglers. My wife doesn't understand and told me to just "leave it alone, it's working perfectly". Has she just met me?
Anyways, not wanting to throw a ton of $$ at this, I found a shifter from a Chevy Malibu at a local scrapyard last summer that had a toggle button on the shifter knob and I played around with that a few months back but just wasn't pleased with the looks of the knob and boot with the Jeep shifter as it looked kind of hodge podge although I was able to get the buttons to work after removing the small circuit board inside. That being said, I prefer the OEM appearance in daily drivers as much as possible and more important, the functionality so I really didn't want to have something that was hideous to look at or something the wife would have to think about too much to drive. I like the fact that although our Jeep is completely custom in terms of powertrain to chassis/body, it is however, as OEM in functionality as I can make it and I'd like to keep it that way. To the untrained eye it just looks like every other Jeep JKUR on 37's.
So, my mind keeps going back to the 2012+ Jeep Wrangler JK's and that have the factory bumpshift function. The thing I do NOT like about the factory Jeep shifter setup is the fact that it doesn't have a regular "drive" gate. It is only a 4-position shifter and when the shifter is in "D", that is also the bumpshift mode, so any movement of the shifter from side to side will change gears. I think Jeep/Chrysler really missed the boat on that because nearly every other manufacturer has a separate gate in which to enter the manual shift function and it just makes even more sense in an off-road vehicle. But then again, maybe I'm just splitting hairs and whining.
The hurdle is twofold, mechanical and electrical, which is why my first attempt was to just use the same shifter to cover the mechanical responsibilities and then adapt a different knob onto it in which would control the up/down shifting, basically just replace my dash mounted toggle switch with one on the shifter knob. But after not liking the outcome of that one I wondered about adapting a newer JK shifter into my older Jeep platform. Now the bulk of my work is already done as the 2011 was a hybrid year, meaning it still had the older 3.8 liter V6 engine and 42RLE transmission which was common to the 2007-2010, but it had the newer 2012+ interior, so my center console would already accept a 2012+ shifter which "should" be a direct bolt in. My main dilemma was to make sure the mechanical detents would match the GM transmission and then I also wanted to keep the electrical functionality of the shifter, such as the BTSI (Brake Transmission Switch Interlock), indicator illumination as well as the bumpshift function AND have it register through the BCM so it changes the gears on the PRNDL on the dash, which meant I would need to feed the up/down electrical shifting function through the CANbus module which is creating the handshake between my Jeep body and GM powertrain. I was not too worried about this because I already know that the signal works with a standard toggle switch providing a ground to the CAN+ or CAN- depending on shifting up or down. Hope that makes sense.
With trying not to spend a ton on this for fear of it not working, I found a relatively inexpensive 2012+ Jeep JK shifter in which to give it a try to see if I could make it work for my application. I have not posted this in real time because to be honest, I wasn't 100% sure I could make this work and didn't want to embarrass myself.
There's no easy way to begin so I may as well rip the bandage off, or in this case, rip the center console out and get the shifter on the workbench to examine it side by side with the 2012+ shifter.
OEM 2011 shifter removed.
Side by side. 2011 on the left and 2012+ on the right.
My first overview was making sure the shift interlocks were similar and operated in the same manner. They were exact. One hurdle down. Next I examined the 2011 electrical connector vs. the 2012+ and it was evident that the 2012+ had a much more complicated and intricate wiring harness on the actual shifter. I thought maybe I could just cut and join wiring and use the 2012+ connectors, but it seemed like they had several more connectors that I thought necessary, plus another "switch" or junction box in which the other connectors plugged into. My thinking was that these are all just potential failure points and maybe I could reduce the connector count by eliminating a couple.
I began by taking readings at the OEM connector.
Looking at the 2012+ wiring, I saw that everything connects to a five pin harness and then another two pin for the shifter illumination, ie. light bulb. The five wire would obviously be 2-wires for the BTSI solenoid and the 3-wires for the bumpshift switch. Why add multiple connectors on the shifter rather than have them come back to one connector? Then I answered the question by assuming it was for individual component replacement as needed. One connector for the bumpshift shift, one for the light bulb and another for the interlock solenoid.
Rather than cut the harness on the body side and meld the harnesses together, I thought maybe I would modify the wiring on the 2012+ shifter to be more like the 2011 and then be able to merely plug the OEM body side connector into the shifter connector.
I began testing the bumpshift wiring to determine which was the common and which were the UP and DOWN signal wires.
Bump UP wiring was determined and noted.
And bump DOWN wires were determined and noted.
Stay tuned for more, if you're not bored already that is.
I've been working on a "want" project over the past couple of nights. This "want" project is one that I have wanted to try to incorporate into my Jeep for the past 7 years and 80k miles, ever since I swapped in the 6.2 liter LS engine and 6L80 transmission.
Let me preface with saying that the OEM Jeep shifter in conjunction with the GM six-speed (6L80) transmission has worked well. The detents in the shifter have aligned perfectly with the transmission detents in the rooster comb, then when I want to pull the GM transmission back into the manual gate, I simply pull the Jeep shifter back into the "2" position on the shifter when I want to enter the GM manual gate function. From there I have a momentary toggle switch mounted in the dash just above my right knee that I use to toggle up and down through the gears. This has worked flawlessly for the past 80k miles and I use the manual gate heavily when off-road.
However, I really wanted the option of having the ability to toggle up/down through the gears through a shifter mounted option, much like the 2012+ Jeep Wranglers. My wife doesn't understand and told me to just "leave it alone, it's working perfectly". Has she just met me?
Anyways, not wanting to throw a ton of $$ at this, I found a shifter from a Chevy Malibu at a local scrapyard last summer that had a toggle button on the shifter knob and I played around with that a few months back but just wasn't pleased with the looks of the knob and boot with the Jeep shifter as it looked kind of hodge podge although I was able to get the buttons to work after removing the small circuit board inside. That being said, I prefer the OEM appearance in daily drivers as much as possible and more important, the functionality so I really didn't want to have something that was hideous to look at or something the wife would have to think about too much to drive. I like the fact that although our Jeep is completely custom in terms of powertrain to chassis/body, it is however, as OEM in functionality as I can make it and I'd like to keep it that way. To the untrained eye it just looks like every other Jeep JKUR on 37's.So, my mind keeps going back to the 2012+ Jeep Wrangler JK's and that have the factory bumpshift function. The thing I do NOT like about the factory Jeep shifter setup is the fact that it doesn't have a regular "drive" gate. It is only a 4-position shifter and when the shifter is in "D", that is also the bumpshift mode, so any movement of the shifter from side to side will change gears. I think Jeep/Chrysler really missed the boat on that because nearly every other manufacturer has a separate gate in which to enter the manual shift function and it just makes even more sense in an off-road vehicle. But then again, maybe I'm just splitting hairs and whining.
The hurdle is twofold, mechanical and electrical, which is why my first attempt was to just use the same shifter to cover the mechanical responsibilities and then adapt a different knob onto it in which would control the up/down shifting, basically just replace my dash mounted toggle switch with one on the shifter knob. But after not liking the outcome of that one I wondered about adapting a newer JK shifter into my older Jeep platform. Now the bulk of my work is already done as the 2011 was a hybrid year, meaning it still had the older 3.8 liter V6 engine and 42RLE transmission which was common to the 2007-2010, but it had the newer 2012+ interior, so my center console would already accept a 2012+ shifter which "should" be a direct bolt in. My main dilemma was to make sure the mechanical detents would match the GM transmission and then I also wanted to keep the electrical functionality of the shifter, such as the BTSI (Brake Transmission Switch Interlock), indicator illumination as well as the bumpshift function AND have it register through the BCM so it changes the gears on the PRNDL on the dash, which meant I would need to feed the up/down electrical shifting function through the CANbus module which is creating the handshake between my Jeep body and GM powertrain. I was not too worried about this because I already know that the signal works with a standard toggle switch providing a ground to the CAN+ or CAN- depending on shifting up or down. Hope that makes sense.
With trying not to spend a ton on this for fear of it not working, I found a relatively inexpensive 2012+ Jeep JK shifter in which to give it a try to see if I could make it work for my application. I have not posted this in real time because to be honest, I wasn't 100% sure I could make this work and didn't want to embarrass myself.
There's no easy way to begin so I may as well rip the bandage off, or in this case, rip the center console out and get the shifter on the workbench to examine it side by side with the 2012+ shifter.
OEM 2011 shifter removed.
Side by side. 2011 on the left and 2012+ on the right.
My first overview was making sure the shift interlocks were similar and operated in the same manner. They were exact. One hurdle down. Next I examined the 2011 electrical connector vs. the 2012+ and it was evident that the 2012+ had a much more complicated and intricate wiring harness on the actual shifter. I thought maybe I could just cut and join wiring and use the 2012+ connectors, but it seemed like they had several more connectors that I thought necessary, plus another "switch" or junction box in which the other connectors plugged into. My thinking was that these are all just potential failure points and maybe I could reduce the connector count by eliminating a couple.
I began by taking readings at the OEM connector.
Looking at the 2012+ wiring, I saw that everything connects to a five pin harness and then another two pin for the shifter illumination, ie. light bulb. The five wire would obviously be 2-wires for the BTSI solenoid and the 3-wires for the bumpshift switch. Why add multiple connectors on the shifter rather than have them come back to one connector? Then I answered the question by assuming it was for individual component replacement as needed. One connector for the bumpshift shift, one for the light bulb and another for the interlock solenoid.
Rather than cut the harness on the body side and meld the harnesses together, I thought maybe I would modify the wiring on the 2012+ shifter to be more like the 2011 and then be able to merely plug the OEM body side connector into the shifter connector.
I began testing the bumpshift wiring to determine which was the common and which were the UP and DOWN signal wires.
Bump UP wiring was determined and noted.
And bump DOWN wires were determined and noted.
Stay tuned for more, if you're not bored already that is.
Last edited:
OP
zmotorsports
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Continuing on.
At that point I got frustrated and it was time to walk away. I could not locate the 12+ coming from the brake switch to the OEM connector for the BTSI solenoid and didn't want to blow any fuses or just start putting voltage to things without knowing the circuitry.
I printed off some wiring schematics and although I had "guessed" correctly based on the plug's pinout, one thing I forgot to take into account was the shift interlock cable. That must be tensioned in order to send voltage from the brake switch to the brake interlock solenoid. With the voltage at the body connector side now matching up with my drawn layout, I can proceed.
Notes.
With wanting to use the 2011 shifter harness, I eliminated one connector by hardwiring the light wiring into the harness with **** connectors and heat shrink. I also tested the interlock solenoid using a lawnmower battery that I had sitting in the shop and applying it to the connector to ensure everything on the shifter side of the harness is wired correctly and will function once plugged into the body harness.
Next the mechanical hurdle needs to be investigated. While the "throw" on both shifters seems very similar, the detents aren't aligning. Let's disassemble the shifter and see what can be done to eliminate the detents on the shifter as the detents on the rooster comb in the transmission will be adequate, as they have been on many GM vehicles for decades.
After removing the top trim piece, the metal gate plate can be removed.
I still couldn't see the detents so more disassembly required. Removed the pivot shaft and then the shifter assembly from the body.
Detent plunger and track located and removed.
I sat both shifters side by side and measured the throw to each position and then made a notation on the new shifter that needed some attention. Not much, just about a 1/4" on Reverse and the same on the Neutral positions.
I was also able to locate the actual bumpshift switch and removed it.
Stay tuned for more.
At that point I got frustrated and it was time to walk away. I could not locate the 12+ coming from the brake switch to the OEM connector for the BTSI solenoid and didn't want to blow any fuses or just start putting voltage to things without knowing the circuitry.
I printed off some wiring schematics and although I had "guessed" correctly based on the plug's pinout, one thing I forgot to take into account was the shift interlock cable. That must be tensioned in order to send voltage from the brake switch to the brake interlock solenoid. With the voltage at the body connector side now matching up with my drawn layout, I can proceed.
Notes.
With wanting to use the 2011 shifter harness, I eliminated one connector by hardwiring the light wiring into the harness with **** connectors and heat shrink. I also tested the interlock solenoid using a lawnmower battery that I had sitting in the shop and applying it to the connector to ensure everything on the shifter side of the harness is wired correctly and will function once plugged into the body harness.
Next the mechanical hurdle needs to be investigated. While the "throw" on both shifters seems very similar, the detents aren't aligning. Let's disassemble the shifter and see what can be done to eliminate the detents on the shifter as the detents on the rooster comb in the transmission will be adequate, as they have been on many GM vehicles for decades.
After removing the top trim piece, the metal gate plate can be removed.
I still couldn't see the detents so more disassembly required. Removed the pivot shaft and then the shifter assembly from the body.
Detent plunger and track located and removed.
I sat both shifters side by side and measured the throw to each position and then made a notation on the new shifter that needed some attention. Not much, just about a 1/4" on Reverse and the same on the Neutral positions.
I was also able to locate the actual bumpshift switch and removed it.
Stay tuned for more.
OP
zmotorsports
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Continuing on.
Out came the Deutsch DTM-20 size connectors.
Adding the connector and sockets to the switch side. This way the shifter can be easily disconnected at the OEM connector for the light and interlock solenoid and this connector for the bumpshift switch. No cutting of wires just to remove the shifter.
Connector installed on the switch.
I had ordered some 22-gauge wire from Sherco a while back so I measured off enough to get me from the shifter to under the steering column where I would make the other connection. The other side of the Deutsch connector terminated and connected.
Making the slight alteration to the shifter housing.
Making sure the wiring and connectors are accurate. Bump DOWN continuity confirmed.
Bump UP confirmed. Now I know everything from the added wiring to the actual shifter is verified to work.
With the 2012+ shifter reassembled (right), I aligned it with the OEM 2011 shifter (left) to measure the throws for each position. Reverse now matches.
and Neutral now matches.
This will be the difference between what I have now and what Jeep should have done. In DRIVE, the new shifter is just between Neutral and the bumpshift gate or "D" on the 2012+ shifter.
Stay tuned for more.
Out came the Deutsch DTM-20 size connectors.
Adding the connector and sockets to the switch side. This way the shifter can be easily disconnected at the OEM connector for the light and interlock solenoid and this connector for the bumpshift switch. No cutting of wires just to remove the shifter.
Connector installed on the switch.
I had ordered some 22-gauge wire from Sherco a while back so I measured off enough to get me from the shifter to under the steering column where I would make the other connection. The other side of the Deutsch connector terminated and connected.
Making the slight alteration to the shifter housing.
Making sure the wiring and connectors are accurate. Bump DOWN continuity confirmed.
Bump UP confirmed. Now I know everything from the added wiring to the actual shifter is verified to work.
With the 2012+ shifter reassembled (right), I aligned it with the OEM 2011 shifter (left) to measure the throws for each position. Reverse now matches.
and Neutral now matches.
This will be the difference between what I have now and what Jeep should have done. In DRIVE, the new shifter is just between Neutral and the bumpshift gate or "D" on the 2012+ shifter.
Stay tuned for more.
OP
zmotorsports
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Continuing on.
Here on the 2011 shifter (left) is where I would pull the shifter back to enter the GM manual gate. On the 2012+ shifter (right), is now the manual gate and I have the ability to toggle right to UP-shift or left to DOWN-shift.
And there is the OEM connector from the 2011 shifter, on the 2012+ shifter for a plug n play setup.
Abrasion protection added to the new wire loom which will connect under the dash for making the connection to the handshake CANbus module.
Wire loom pulled through the dash towards the center console.
Ran alongside and zip-tied to the OEM wiring harness running under the center console.
2012+ shifter bolted into the Jeep and both connectors connected.
Another Deutsch connector added under the dash to make the connection between the CANbus module and the shifter harness. I waffled here on adding another Deutsch connector or just hardwiring the harness together. There should be no real reason to have to disconnect this UNLESS my bumpshift switch fails. Then I can reconnect it to the toggle switch in the dash that I have been using for the past 80k miles.
Stay tuned for the moment of truth.....
Here on the 2011 shifter (left) is where I would pull the shifter back to enter the GM manual gate. On the 2012+ shifter (right), is now the manual gate and I have the ability to toggle right to UP-shift or left to DOWN-shift.
And there is the OEM connector from the 2011 shifter, on the 2012+ shifter for a plug n play setup.
Abrasion protection added to the new wire loom which will connect under the dash for making the connection to the handshake CANbus module.
Wire loom pulled through the dash towards the center console.
Ran alongside and zip-tied to the OEM wiring harness running under the center console.
2012+ shifter bolted into the Jeep and both connectors connected.
Another Deutsch connector added under the dash to make the connection between the CANbus module and the shifter harness. I waffled here on adding another Deutsch connector or just hardwiring the harness together. There should be no real reason to have to disconnect this UNLESS my bumpshift switch fails. Then I can reconnect it to the toggle switch in the dash that I have been using for the past 80k miles.
Stay tuned for the moment of truth.....
OP
zmotorsports
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Last of the pictures for now.
And now, the moment of truth.
Key "ON" and going through the gears to ensure the P-R-N-D-L is working. So far so good.
NOW, the manual gate is entered and I get the individual gears. Whew.
Bumping up and bumping down through the shifter seems to be working. Don't mind the check engine, the engine is not running and I'm just testing with the key on.
Once everything confirmed it's working, the steering cover can be reinstalled.
My mess and where I left off last night.
I need to do some cleaning before I put the passenger's seat back in place and the center console, but for the most part it is complete. I also noted that I need to adjust the shifter cable at linkage at the transmission just a small amount. I want the Drive detent to be exactly between Neutral and the manual gate and when I pull it back into the manual gate I want the shifter all the way back. It is off by about 3/16" to 1/4" right now. I should have plenty of adjustability at the transmission linkage to compensate for that, then it's ready to test drive before putting the console back together.
Thanks for looking.
And now, the moment of truth.
Key "ON" and going through the gears to ensure the P-R-N-D-L is working. So far so good.
NOW, the manual gate is entered and I get the individual gears. Whew.
Bumping up and bumping down through the shifter seems to be working. Don't mind the check engine, the engine is not running and I'm just testing with the key on.
Once everything confirmed it's working, the steering cover can be reinstalled.
My mess and where I left off last night.
I need to do some cleaning before I put the passenger's seat back in place and the center console, but for the most part it is complete. I also noted that I need to adjust the shifter cable at linkage at the transmission just a small amount. I want the Drive detent to be exactly between Neutral and the manual gate and when I pull it back into the manual gate I want the shifter all the way back. It is off by about 3/16" to 1/4" right now. I should have plenty of adjustability at the transmission linkage to compensate for that, then it's ready to test drive before putting the console back together.
Thanks for looking.
OP
zmotorsports
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Mike, you are going to love the ultrasonic.
I’ve had the larger one for a while now and it’s been a work horse. These all seem to be made by the same outfit and rebranded. My bearing supplier just gave me the small unit. I was always under the impression that you shouldn’t put bearings in an ultrasonic, but they assured me that they recommend it for their ceramic bearings and Sprague clutches prior to regressing. So the usage range for these just increased for me. For larger parts I just use water with a healthy pour of purple degreaser. For the bearings I just use straight aircraft grade simple green and it’s amazing how well it works.
Thank you for the information. I appreciate it.
HEEP
Well-known member
We are just getting you back for all the stuff we have had to buy because you show us what we need.I need to quit hanging out with ya'll on this forum........
OP
zmotorsports
ALLIANCE MEMBER
signcrafter
Well-known member
- Joined
- May 9, 2012
- Messages
- 12,360
Neat project Mike. It's those little things like this that make guys like us happy. My wife is the same way, "why do you need to do anything to it, it's working the way it is". Because I want it a different way and also because I'm not sure it will work but I think I can get it to work and really want to see if I actually can. LOL. I can't think of any examples off the top of my head but when you mentioned your wife saying that it brought back memories of very similar situations. But usually after it's done and I show her she will see and understand why I wanted it different.
madison069
Well-known member
Interesting idea. But since this was done, there is total silence from the hitch area, at least as far as our experience goes. Inside the SUV cabin heading out for our fishing trip is a whole nuther thing! Yap yap yap yap yap yap yip yap.......
Have you thought about going deaf? I mean just enough you can’t hear without hearing aids I mean.
OP
zmotorsports
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Agreed Scott. Like the whole LS swap into the Jeep. I wanted to do it not only for the drivability, but to prove to myself I could in fact do it and to an OE level.
She came out to the shop last night just as I was turning the key on to test and she couldn't understand my excitement. To her it just worked the same way it did before.
madison069
Well-known member
You know you would miss us….I need to quit hanging out with ya'll on this forum........
Your shifter project is pretty interesting to me. I have a 2011 jeep grand cherokee with the v6 and it has the same shifter your putting in. I wish the manual shifting worked the way yours will.
I'm sure it's all in the way the transmission module is programmed but on mine when you bump it down it goes to first gear no matter what gear you were in previously. I only use it when I'm pulling something and just put it in four before taking off to keep it out of overdrive. I wish I could shift it down going down the road.
I'm going to stop pulling with it anyhow. The transmission has started leaking fluid when I pull with it and the shift solenoids are starting to hang up every now and then.
Looks like you've got yours figured out. Nice job!!!
I'm sure it's all in the way the transmission module is programmed but on mine when you bump it down it goes to first gear no matter what gear you were in previously. I only use it when I'm pulling something and just put it in four before taking off to keep it out of overdrive. I wish I could shift it down going down the road.
I'm going to stop pulling with it anyhow. The transmission has started leaking fluid when I pull with it and the shift solenoids are starting to hang up every now and then.
Looks like you've got yours figured out. Nice job!!!
OP
zmotorsports
ALLIANCE MEMBER
ScepterToad
Well-known member
- Joined
- Nov 9, 2023
- Messages
- 335
Nice update to the shifter Mike!
OP
zmotorsports
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Thanks Keith.
OP
zmotorsports
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Thank you. Jeep/Chrysler/FCA really missed the boat on their Jeep shifter setup.
That is a great OEM+ mod on the shifter, Mike! I really like that it is from a very similar generation vehicle, I've never been a fan of mixing much newer tech into older cars, I also prefer the period correct upgrades.
ntsqd
Well-known member
I like newer tech hidden in period correct looking vehicles. Just putting that shifter in a '70's Jeep would look really out of place, even if it was well done.
OP
zmotorsports
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Thanks guys. I don't think I reinvented the wheel by any means; there are a couple of LS swap companies doing something similar but not sure how they are doing it nor if they are adding the extra gate into the 2012+ shifter or just adding the 2012+ shifter in its stock form.
Finallygotit
ALLIANCE MEMBER
The thing is, I'm the one with the good hearing. The other three are constantly saying "What?" Should I be rude and put earbuds in?
madison069
Well-known member
Well, I turn “my hearing aids off” and blame it on the wind noise and it’s over stimulating me. But in reality I switched to Bluetooth and start listening to Spotify with background noise off. Your results from said actions will vary.The thing is, I'm the one with the good hearing. The other three are constantly saying "What?" Should I be rude and put earbuds in?
Bigblue&Goldie
Well-known member
I just read a crazy long detailed post about a shifter and I was enthralled by it more than any book I've ever read.......
Always impressive! The tech side of the electronics is well out of my realm, but I can definitely appreciate the thought that went into making all of this work.
Always impressive! The tech side of the electronics is well out of my realm, but I can definitely appreciate the thought that went into making all of this work.
swsman
Well-known member
Mike,I need to quit hanging out with ya'll on this forum........
10L or 15L model?
I have been window shopping one for a couple years now. For my use case it will be for small engine caburetors/atv and motorcycle carbs.
Thanks.
Swanny1953
ALLIANCE MEMBER
I assume Mike will agree with this. Transfer case in neutral, ****** in park. Otherwise, the parasitic drag will destroy the ******. Ask how I know - my company had what we called our Extreme Tailgaiting Vehicle with a matching Jeep for a toad. First trip out, they blew the transmission by leaving it in neutral while flat towing.
This was the first iteration in 2014. There have been several since. College games on Saturday, pro games on Sunday, branch events during the week. Driver is on the road all fall
OP
zmotorsports
ALLIANCE MEMBER
As Gary mentioned, transmission in "Park", or higher gear if manual, then the transfer case in Neutral. On the 2008 and earlier model Wranglers you also need to have the steering wheel unlocked. On 2009+ model years they didn't have the steering wheel link from the factory.
The Jeeps are hands down one the easiest vehicle to flat tow.
Thank you Ryan. Electrical is still in my opinion one of my lesser developed skills, but I continue to learn with each task. Swapping in this LS and keeping it 100% USEPA compliant was one job I learned a LOT from in terms of electrical. Plus my background in industrial maintenance has played a HUGE roll one the last nearly 4-decades.
22L model.
OP
zmotorsports
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Hope everyone had a great weekend.
Friday night after work, I wanted to adjust the throw on the shifter cable just a little bit to center the shift lever with the corresponding positions marked on the shifter, mainly get the "D" position properly centered between "N" and the manual gate where it wouldn't engage the tap shift function. I only had a little adjustment in the correct position, so the bracket had to come out from under the Jeep. Fortunately, it wasn't too awful of a job.
Bracket removed. At first I thought it would take too much time to set it up in the mill so I'd just use a rotary bit to elongate the holes......
But then I thought better about it and decided for the few minutes extra it would take to set it up, the time to cut and the quality of the elongated slots would offset that. I didn't like the setup especially as it was rather crude, but it worked and held the bracket very rigid.
Elongating the adjustment slots.
Slots elongated and deburred. Ready to reinstall and it didn't take much time at all.
Just as I was putting the bracket back in the Jeep, the new Dynomax 5" inlet/outlet muffler for the coach arrived.
Stay tuned for more.
Friday night after work, I wanted to adjust the throw on the shifter cable just a little bit to center the shift lever with the corresponding positions marked on the shifter, mainly get the "D" position properly centered between "N" and the manual gate where it wouldn't engage the tap shift function. I only had a little adjustment in the correct position, so the bracket had to come out from under the Jeep. Fortunately, it wasn't too awful of a job.
Bracket removed. At first I thought it would take too much time to set it up in the mill so I'd just use a rotary bit to elongate the holes......
But then I thought better about it and decided for the few minutes extra it would take to set it up, the time to cut and the quality of the elongated slots would offset that. I didn't like the setup especially as it was rather crude, but it worked and held the bracket very rigid.
Elongating the adjustment slots.
Slots elongated and deburred. Ready to reinstall and it didn't take much time at all.
Just as I was putting the bracket back in the Jeep, the new Dynomax 5" inlet/outlet muffler for the coach arrived.
Stay tuned for more.
OP
zmotorsports
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Continuing on.
After a couple small tweaks, I liked where the shifter landed.
Park
Park
Reverse
Reverse
Neutral
Neutral
Drive
Drive. The shift lever is exactly where I wanted it here. It doesn't engage with the tapshift switch, but also can't be moved side to side.
Manual gate.
And manual gate on the shifter.
At that point the wife and I took it for a short drive to go get some Chinese takeaway for dinner and everything worked perfectly. Although I questioned the position of the 4WD lever as it wasn't far enough forward, but I wanted to wait until I got the center console reinstalled for confirmation.
Stay tuned.
After a couple small tweaks, I liked where the shifter landed.
Park
Park
Reverse
Reverse
Neutral
Neutral
Drive
Drive. The shift lever is exactly where I wanted it here. It doesn't engage with the tapshift switch, but also can't be moved side to side.
Manual gate.
And manual gate on the shifter.
At that point the wife and I took it for a short drive to go get some Chinese takeaway for dinner and everything worked perfectly. Although I questioned the position of the 4WD lever as it wasn't far enough forward, but I wanted to wait until I got the center console reinstalled for confirmation.
Stay tuned.
OP
zmotorsports
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Continuing on.
With the 4WD shifter all the way forward in 2HI, you can see that it is not all the way forward in the opening. This unfortunately, wouldn't allow me to pull it all the way into 4LO at the most rearward position, so a little more tweaking is required.
While I was at it, I may as well clean everything as it's going back together.
There wasn't quite enough adjustment in the transfer case shifter bracket so I had to move the two bolts to the next set of holes, then it aligned perfectly. Shifter all the way forward in 2HI and will easily reach all the way rearward and go into 4LO without any interferences.
With the fasteners tightened down and cables zip-tied together, the underside is also completed.
Just as I was cleaning the shop up late morning on Saturday, my cousin called to see if I would have a few minutes to look at a 2005 Volvo XC70 that he had bought for his grandchildren to share that he was having issues with. He's a pretty good mechanic and retired only a few years ago, but no longer has access to a scanner and was a little out of his element so asked if I could assist him and his son. They came over and although the car was no longer acting up, I was able to extract some data from the car to determine the problem and they had a plan to replace the part.
While we were BS'ing in the shop, my wife came out with the package from Kartek that I was expecting. I had reordered some marking pens and sealant a few weeks back but they were out of stock on several just before Christmas. I mentioned that it was not an emergency and to just send everything once the out of stock items arrived.
I really like the precision and quality of the marking compound on the Rev Lock Sure Lock which are a small squeeze bottle with a nice stainless steel application needle, but I have not tried their Race Supply paint pens and opted to give them a try.
Saturday afternoon the wife and I hopped in the Jeep and knocked down nearly a 200-mile drive putting her through her paces and giving the shifter a full testing. We ended up in Kamas for dinner at one of our favorite little out of the way diners and I am pleased to report that the shift is working as planned. I am very pleased with the outcome of this modification and now I can't wait to try it out while off-roading.
Thanks for looking.
With the 4WD shifter all the way forward in 2HI, you can see that it is not all the way forward in the opening. This unfortunately, wouldn't allow me to pull it all the way into 4LO at the most rearward position, so a little more tweaking is required.
While I was at it, I may as well clean everything as it's going back together.
There wasn't quite enough adjustment in the transfer case shifter bracket so I had to move the two bolts to the next set of holes, then it aligned perfectly. Shifter all the way forward in 2HI and will easily reach all the way rearward and go into 4LO without any interferences.
With the fasteners tightened down and cables zip-tied together, the underside is also completed.
Just as I was cleaning the shop up late morning on Saturday, my cousin called to see if I would have a few minutes to look at a 2005 Volvo XC70 that he had bought for his grandchildren to share that he was having issues with. He's a pretty good mechanic and retired only a few years ago, but no longer has access to a scanner and was a little out of his element so asked if I could assist him and his son. They came over and although the car was no longer acting up, I was able to extract some data from the car to determine the problem and they had a plan to replace the part.
While we were BS'ing in the shop, my wife came out with the package from Kartek that I was expecting. I had reordered some marking pens and sealant a few weeks back but they were out of stock on several just before Christmas. I mentioned that it was not an emergency and to just send everything once the out of stock items arrived.
I really like the precision and quality of the marking compound on the Rev Lock Sure Lock which are a small squeeze bottle with a nice stainless steel application needle, but I have not tried their Race Supply paint pens and opted to give them a try.
Saturday afternoon the wife and I hopped in the Jeep and knocked down nearly a 200-mile drive putting her through her paces and giving the shifter a full testing. We ended up in Kamas for dinner at one of our favorite little out of the way diners and I am pleased to report that the shift is working as planned. I am very pleased with the outcome of this modification and now I can't wait to try it out while off-roading.
Thanks for looking.
madison069
Well-known member
Shifter looks nice and factory! Nice that the physical part of the project wasn’t too complicated. I like those paint pens, might have to look into a set of them.