Craftsman Drill Press Information Belts, Bearings, Chucks, Keys, etc…1946-1984

[Placeholder17]

Hello all, I am cleaning up a vari-slo attachment and found that the interior bore of both variable pulleys was packed full of grease. However, as all pulley bearings were double-sided shielded, I don't know what purpose this grease served.

1. What is the point of packing the vari-slo pulley bores with grease?
2. Do you oil the external face of the bronze shaft/bore in the center of the pulleys on which the variable step slides up and down?

 

[jd5000]

Hello all, I am cleaning up a vari-slo attachment and found that the interior bore of both variable pulleys was packed full of grease. However, as all pulley bearings were double-sided shielded, I don't know what purpose this grease served.

1. What is the point of packing the vari-slo pulley bores with grease?
2. Do you oil the external face of the bronze shaft/bore in the center of the pulleys on which the variable step slides up and down?

Mine was packed full of grease, too when I restored it https://www.garagejournal.com/forum...nformation-thread.484456/page-9#post-11281238

I ended up cleaning it out during the restore, but didn't see the point of it. Still, I put a light coating of Super Lube in it just in case, before assembling it.

I'd be interested in hearing what others think of why the grease was in there, though.

 

[FrankLee]

It’s been a long time, but iirc, there is a small hole in the wall of the inner cylinder. It allows lubrication to reach the sliding sleeve with the middle sheave.

 

[FrankLee]

Mine was packed full of grease, too when I restored it https://www.garagejournal.com/forum...nformation-thread.484456/page-9#post-11281238

I ended up cleaning it out during the restore, but didn't see the point of it. Still, I put a light coating of Super Lube in it just in case, before assembling it.

I'd be interested in hearing what others think of why the grease was in there, though.

It’s been a long time, but iirc, there is a small hole in the wall of the inner cylinder. It allows lubrication to reach the sliding sleeve with the middle sheave.

Here's a link to another site with photos.

1956 Craftsman Drill Press Rebuild - Completed

Nice work! The king Seeley era Craftsman, (like yours) is what solidified their reputation at their peak. I had and restored the same press, (though a floor model) several sears ago, and apart from the use of a little pot metal in the handwheel/ hub, it was built like a tank. I only upgraded...

ncwoodworker.net

 

[Placeholder17]

Thanks for the info. On both pulleys, the variable sheave slid up and down fine while I had the pulley submerged in acetone for grease removal, but afterwards they froze up again. I presume this is dried grease between the shaft and sheave bore that I can't access.

I removed the set screws holding the fixed end sheaves in place, but they are extremely tight on the bronze shafts and I don't want to go banging away with a hammer when all metal involved (bronze and aluminum) is soft. Has anyone else separated the sheaves before, and how?

 

[FrankLee]

Has anyone else separated the sheaves before, and how?

Yes. Jeff posted it upstream in this thread in post #439.

 

[Placeholder17]

A minor note for posterity...I wasn't comfortable disassembling the pulleys per the post #439 link above as I have a small vise with minimal clearance below the jaws.

I lubed the outer face of the bronze shafts with SAE 10 compressor oil and forced the variable sheave to each end with a lot of finger pressure, and once the sheave bore had fully passed over the oil both ways, it immediately went back to sliding over the whole range of travel without effort.

I am curious though...I found the hole in the inner bore of the bronze shafts and it looked about 1/16" diameter...quite tiny. I would think the grease would clog it. What grease have you guys used to fill the pulleys?

 

[DDOPWD23]

I bought this bench top about a year ago to take some parts from it. When I saw it in person I knew I couldn’t do that to a survivor like this. The owner who originally bought it passed away and his shop was being sold since no one wanted it.

I picked it up for $75 and put it under my work bench. I recently pulled it out just to clean it up before I get ready to move. It’s amazing what a simple cleaning will do. The original paint is in pretty good shape along with everything else.

The motor tag is really the only thing that got some weird tarnish on it that I can’t seem to get off. When it’s wet by a cleaning agent it seems to go away. Then after a few minutes it comes back.

All it all not bad just to leave it as is, I’m sure I will clean the column up a little bit and the spindle pulley bearings are grinding for sure but it does run smooth that is for sure.

 

[jd5000]

It’s been a long time, but iirc, there is a small hole in the wall of the inner cylinder. It allows lubrication to reach the sliding sleeve with the middle sheave.

That's a tiny hole, I wonder if it would actually work? I'm thinking a small, directed squirt of Super Super Slick Stuff once every few years would be a lot easier and more effective. Thoughts?

 

[drs3317]

Hello all,
My neighbor thought he was buying a nice older 103 drill press and over paid. It has several issues and he asked me to help him with it. It was missing a couple parts, one feed handle and knob, the head stock lock handle, and the chuck key. I have to dig around my stock but I think I have each of these. However, the worse is head stock spindle pulley. Somehow it got broke in a couple places so will need a new one. The bearings are really rough so I'm thinking maybe someone tried to use a puller to remove it. I do have new bearings in the shop but does anyone have an extra pulley they are willing to sell? Since we are this far apart I told him I would do a complete rebuild for him since he has always helped us in the past watching our place and feeding our dog when we are away.
Thanks, Danny

 

[FrankLee]

Hello all,
My neighbor thought he was buying a nice older 103 drill press and over paid. It has several issues and he asked me to help him with it. It was missing a couple parts, one feed handle and knob, the head stock lock handle, and the chuck key. I have to dig around my stock but I think I have each of these. However, the worse is head stock spindle pulley. Somehow it got broke in a couple places so will need a new one. The bearings are really rough so I'm thinking maybe someone tried to use a puller to remove it. I do have new bearings in the shop but does anyone have an extra pulley they are willing to sell? Since we are this far apart I told him I would do a complete rebuild for him since he has always helped us in the past watching our place and feeding our dog when we are away.
Thanks, Danny

I've got a spindle pulley here: (post #18)

FS: Craftsman 80/100/150 Drill Press Parts & More

I've got lots of King-Seeley and Emerson Craftsman drill press parts. Craftsman 80, 100, 150; 12-1/4", 13-1/2", 15-1/2". Lots of Craftsman 115.6962 motor parts. Some parts shown are for table saws/band saws/jointers/grinders flanges. If you don't see it here, ask. I do have a couple cast...

www.garagejournal.com

Send a pm.

What is the model number? Any more pictures?

 

[exmaxima1]

I picked up a Craftsman 150 drill press and the depth gauge looks different from anyone I’ve seen before. From the motor I believe it was made in Nov 1962. The model number on the base—-103— indicates it is King-Seeley.

Has anyone else seen a depth stop like this?

 

[FrankLee]

I picked up a Craftsman 150 drill press and the depth gauge looks different from anyone I’ve seen before. From the motor I believe it was made in Nov 1962. The model number on the base—-103— indicates it is King-Seeley.

Has anyone else seen a depth stop like this?

The oe feed stop assembly on a 150 consists of three components; the bracket, the rod and the stop.

That assembly has only one original part; the rod. The rod is acme threaded 5/8-12.

You have two feed stop knurled nuts. The original part should be a rapid-adjust collar.


That feed stop bracket was originally a mortising frame that was cut down.

 

[exmaxima1]

i can tell you its very sturdy. Thanks.

 

[FrankLee]

i can tell you its very sturdy. Thanks.

No doubt.

That original paint is much better than average. It should clean up nicely.

 

[Gap0891]

Craftsman 113.24590 80s I'm guessing? Can someone point me to a youtube video or thread here that tells me how to remove the two bearings inside the head for the front pulley? I've looked high and wide. Do these come our from the bottom up? Are people just putting the head on a press and pressing them out? Right now, I have a large thick wooden dowel to stick in from the bottom and bang it upwards with a mallet. I do see there's a locking clip on the bottom when I shine a light in there. Assuming that would have to go on first then the bearing, so that's why I'm thinking from the bottom up. This is my first drill press that I'm restoring and I don't want to booger it up. It looks like there's some sort of roll pin from the side of the head somewhat aligned with the sleeve that sits in there. Do I have to do anything with this?

Many, many, thanks. Also, this forum has been super helpful! Just made my account the other day when I realized I couldn't find the answer to my question.

 

[Gap0891]

Literally, nevermind. That's a machine screw on the side and it popped right out. Thanks for whoever posted this: http://vintagemachinery.org/pubs/222/4779.pdf

 

[11b30b4]

Sorry to get back to you so late. here is the link for your owners manual.
vintagemachinery.org/pubs/222/4824.pdf
As for removing the spindle pulley assembly, this video shows it at 7:04
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" title="YouTube video player" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture; web-share" referrerpolicy="strict-origin-when-cross-origin" allowfullscreen></iframe>

 

[mikeinri]

Wow, this is an incredible resource for these DPs! Well done, @11b30b4, and everyone who has contributed!

I'm in the market for a used DP, and have been Googling a lot of model numbers, which landed me here...

Mike

 

[DDOPWD23]

Well I scored these two. They were right right price. Need a little bit of work but nothing I can’t handle.

The black one was butchered a little bit and is powered by a 1950 Dunlop 1/3 HP motor.

The battleship gray had a 3450 RPM motor on it and the pulley was mounted upside down. I thought it was going to come with an MSA or vari-slo. It did but the owner took it for himself. I saw it sitting in his shop next to a 100 series bench top. It’s alright I have a spare motor with the correct RPM.

I swapped both columns out. I wanted the taller 67” columns and I also was able to buy a NOS 62” column. You can see the original factory finish.

 

[FrankLee]

I also was able to buy a NOS 62” column. You can see the original factory finish.

Wow! What is the diameter of the machined ID, an early 2-3/8" or a late 2-1/2" ?

 

[Cruzan80]

And here I was, oogling the sander on pedestal behind it. Didn't pay enough attention at first, thought I had missed where they made a pedestal base for the 12" disk sander.

 

[DDOPWD23]

Wow! What is the diameter of the machined ID, an early 2-3/8" or a late 2-

It’s 2.5 ID and I also got a column clamp too.

 

[DDOPWD23]

And here I was, oogling the sander on pedestal behind it. Didn't pay enough attention at first, thought I had missed where they made a pedestal base for the 12" disk sander.

Yes that was another rare purchase I made when I saw it had the belt cover. Speaking of which the guy is going to hold onto a 12" bandsaw with pedestal and slow speed reduction gear for me. I didn't have enough room in my truck to take both with me. Its painted Power Bronze, the only thing it didn't have was the belt guard. He did how ever have a lot of other nice bench grinders and a whole bunch of Delta stuff as well.

 

[Cruzan80]

Nice. I do have the bandsaw w/pedestal already, and a Slo-speed converter (the older Savage model). Coincidentally, the reducer came in an auction purchase with the disc sander... TheZamak has some stress cracks on the built-in pulley, so probably need to either epoxy it or make a mold and re-cast (or 3D print) a new one. Which version is your bandsaw coming with (gray oval or black box)?

I am on the lookout for the sander pedestal (in a perfect world, the earlier version for the older sander so it matches the machine I already have).

 

[DDOPWD23]

Nice. I do have the bandsaw w/pedestal already, and a Slo-speed converter (the older Savage model). Coincidentally, the reducer came in an auction purchase with the disc sander... TheZamak has some stress cracks on the built-in pulley, so probably need to either epoxy it or make a mold and re-cast (or 3D print) a new one. Which version is your bandsaw coming with (gray oval or black box)?

I am on the lookout for the sander pedestal (in a perfect world, the earlier version for the older sander so it matches the machine I already have).

Good question, to be honest I don't know too much about the reduction boxes. It was smaller than I would have thought and it was painted power bronze. The guy knew what he had so we had. He wanted what he paid for them at auction. It was his plan to restore veg machines. Mostly Delta and Craftsman but his interests changed. He had two nice 3/4 bench grinders on the stands but one was the late mailbox Delco and the other was the box version. I was more interested in his Delta Triple duty but he wasn't selling it. He had a whole bunch of Delta retirement lights as well. He wanted all eBay prices on those. I will eventually get pictures from him when the time comes on the bandsaw. I will post in the appropriate thread.

 

[drs3317]

SOLID COLUMN on a 150 drill press.
I picked this drill press up a while back and the owners said her mother who had passed away years ago used it in her shop to build music instruments. It was a floor model with a few added accessories bolted to the table. The base was bolted to a 30" square piece of 3/4" plywood. To make it easier for me to move I removed it from the plywood. I have moved many drill presses by myself but this one was a challenge. It kept wanting to fall over. As I got it outside and close to my trailer I realized it had a smaller base plate. I checked model number is 103.24521 and found it to be a bench model. Now I realized why it was top heavy but also still thought it to be heavier than any press I move before. When I got it home and looked closer, I realized the column was solid!. It has a number on top of the shaft 61015. I weighed the shaft alone at just under 110 pounds.
Has anyone ever saw a solid shaft column on a Craftsman 150 drill press?
I am thinking it is just a modified bench model. But why would anyone use a solid shaft making this thing so heavy and needing the large plywood to keep it from topping over?

 

[FrankLee]

Has anyone ever saw a solid shaft column on a Craftsman 150 drill press?
I am thinking it is just a modified bench model.

I had two drill presses with solid columns.

DP#49 was an Atlas 1045.


DP#66 was a '57/'58 King-Seeley Craftsman 100.


Both of those machines started as bench-top models. The columns were standard 2-3/4" round stock. Both of those columns were 48" tall and heavy AF at 80 pounds. I can't imagine anything taller. How tall is yours? The floor-standing column on a 150 would have been 62". At 110 pounds yours should be pretty close to that.

I don't recall the Atlas much, but the 100 was a pita to disassemble. Many manufacturers of the era used 2-3/4" diameter columns, but rarely did 2-3/4" equal 2.7500". King-Seeley columns were always the smallest. So, the head, table, base and MSA were all very difficult to remove. I was fortunate that the miter gears in the MSA were still good.

I parted out the Atlas and refurbished the 100 with an original bench-top column. I sold the round stock to the same guy who owned a machine shop about a year apart.

But why would anyone use a solid shaft making this thing so heavy and needing the large plywood to keep it from topping over?

 

[drs3317]

I had two drill presses with solid columns.

DP#49 was an Atlas 1045.


DP#66 was a '57/'58 King-Seeley Craftsman 100.


Both of those machines started as bench-top models. The columns were standard 2-3/4" round stock. Both of those columns were 48" tall and heavy AF at 80 pounds. I can't imagine anything taller. How tall is yours? The floor-standing column on a 150 would have been 62". At 100 pounds yours should be pretty close to that.

I don't recall the Atlas much, but the 100 was a pita to disassemble. Many manufacturers of the era used 2-3/4" diameter columns, but rarely did 2-3/4" equal 2.7500". King-Seeley columns were always the smallest. So, the head, table, base and MSA were all very difficult to remove. I was fortunate that the miter gears in the MSA were still good.

I parted out the Atlas and refurbished the 100 with an original bench-top column. I sold the round stock to the same guy who owned a machine shop about a year apart.

Frank,
Thanks so much for you input. The column on mine is 64.5" tall measured end to end after disassembled. And, yes a PITA to get apart. That column will not be reused, NO WAY! Just not worth the effort to handle it and try to move it around. The column will be sold to anyone who can make use of it.

 

[11b30b4]

I have a few thoughts:

First, 150 series model # 103.24521 were produced between 1958-1963. In 1964 the model number changed and both Kinge Seely and Emerson produced 150 series drill presses in 1964. By 1965 all further drill presses were produced by Emerson.

In 1958 the benchtop version sold for $99.50 and the floor standing version sold for $112.50. A $13.00 difference is not huge but may have factored into the decision and the original owner decided to buy the benchtop then convert it into a floor standing drill press.

I would assume that since the 2 ¾” stock was widely available and bar stock was likely cheaper than hot or cold rolled tube its what a lot of people went with.

If we were talking about later Emerson models such as the Generation 3 or 4, I would also consider that both Emerson Generations 3 and 4 were known to have a less stable tables that could vibrate while working on heavier items. This is not the case with the 100 and 150 series since both versions of the tables (tilting and non-tilting) were solid and I have not experienced any vibration in either design. I would assume that a solid column in later generations would contribute to more rigid setup and lesson or eliminate the vibration issue. However, this could not be the reason in this case and is likely just a case of what was available and cheapest at the time. Regardless, very interesting find.