madison069
Well-known member
Oh, I thought I was special and didn't want to tell everyone I got one.Got mine yesterday, thanks Mike.
(I;m kidding)
ZMotorsports Shop Projects 2.0
- Thread starter zmotorsports
- Start date
(I;m kidding)ntsqd
Well-known member
You guys are bad.....
SilverJimmy
Well-known member
My Feelers are hurt!
OP
zmotorsports
ALLIANCE MEMBER
I was able to get a little more accomplished on the Jeep JL that's in my shop last night.
I refilled the transfer case with proper fluid and amount. Then replaced the oil filter on the engine and refilled with the proper amount of oil and then tackled the transmission.
Dropping the pan at the rear to allow most of the fluid to drain without making "too big of a mess".
Pan removed and a thorough inspection and looking over of the wiring and components.
Pan sent to the solvent tank for a thorough cleaning.
On most Jeep/Chrysler products the pans are plastic/composite with built in filters. Thankfully on the Wranglers, they still use a steel transmission pan and the filter is bolted to the inside of the pan. Filter and magnets removed and cleaned, ready to accept the new filter and gasket.
New filter and gasket installed. The filter comes with new nuts and they should NOT be torqued down tight, thus allowing the filter to "float" in the pan slightly. The nuts should be snugged down and backed off 1/2 turn allowing the filter to self-locate into the pickup bore when installing the pan.
But the pan cannot be installed until a coating of Sil-Glyde is applied to the O-ring on the filter.
After wiping the pan rails on the transmission down, the pan is installed. You should feel a definitive feeling as the filter pickup and O-ring snap into the pickup bore when installing the pan, then start the fasteners. The fasteners are then all torqued in a center outward sequence and paint marked once all are at the final torque spec.
Stay tuned for a few more pictures.
I refilled the transfer case with proper fluid and amount. Then replaced the oil filter on the engine and refilled with the proper amount of oil and then tackled the transmission.
Dropping the pan at the rear to allow most of the fluid to drain without making "too big of a mess".
Pan removed and a thorough inspection and looking over of the wiring and components.
Pan sent to the solvent tank for a thorough cleaning.
On most Jeep/Chrysler products the pans are plastic/composite with built in filters. Thankfully on the Wranglers, they still use a steel transmission pan and the filter is bolted to the inside of the pan. Filter and magnets removed and cleaned, ready to accept the new filter and gasket.
New filter and gasket installed. The filter comes with new nuts and they should NOT be torqued down tight, thus allowing the filter to "float" in the pan slightly. The nuts should be snugged down and backed off 1/2 turn allowing the filter to self-locate into the pickup bore when installing the pan.
But the pan cannot be installed until a coating of Sil-Glyde is applied to the O-ring on the filter.
After wiping the pan rails on the transmission down, the pan is installed. You should feel a definitive feeling as the filter pickup and O-ring snap into the pickup bore when installing the pan, then start the fasteners. The fasteners are then all torqued in a center outward sequence and paint marked once all are at the final torque spec.
Stay tuned for a few more pictures.
OP
zmotorsports
ALLIANCE MEMBER
This is where I would have liked to have smacked the engineer who designed this. On the 4-door Wrangler JLU's, the fuel tank is further back allowing full access to the fill/level plug on the side of the transmission, but on the 2-door JL's, the plug is about an inch from the fuel tank skid/cradle.
I had to remove the 8mm insert from one of my sockets and pry the tank skid away very slightly to get the tool into the fill plug, then use a wrench to remove it, being cautious to remove the wrench AND the 8mm insert before the plug was too far out of the threads and remove it the remainder of the way by hand. I also didn't have an adapter that would make the 90-degree bend to put fluid into the fill hole so I had to make one out of a piece of 1/4" tubing and bend it, then shrink it onto one of my syringes to add the fluid. I really need to invest in a small set of fill adapters as this is now the way all manufactures are sealing up their transmissions, so long dipsticks.
Mopar fluid at the ready.
With about 3 qts of fluid in the transmission and it starting to run out, I reinstalled the fill plug cap, started the Jeep and ran it through the ranges as the temperature rose. I had to power brake it a little to build up some heat to get it to operating temperature. The spec's state the transmission should be between 86-122 degrees F for full fill.
Sorry, it was getting late, I was hungry and wanted to be done, but I didn't get any final pictures of the skids installed and after the transmission was cleaned of dripped fluid and given a final wipe. I think all that is remaining on this vehicle is the cabin air filter replacement and brake fluid flush, then the owner can pick it up.
Thanks for looking.
I had to remove the 8mm insert from one of my sockets and pry the tank skid away very slightly to get the tool into the fill plug, then use a wrench to remove it, being cautious to remove the wrench AND the 8mm insert before the plug was too far out of the threads and remove it the remainder of the way by hand. I also didn't have an adapter that would make the 90-degree bend to put fluid into the fill hole so I had to make one out of a piece of 1/4" tubing and bend it, then shrink it onto one of my syringes to add the fluid. I really need to invest in a small set of fill adapters as this is now the way all manufactures are sealing up their transmissions, so long dipsticks.
Mopar fluid at the ready.
With about 3 qts of fluid in the transmission and it starting to run out, I reinstalled the fill plug cap, started the Jeep and ran it through the ranges as the temperature rose. I had to power brake it a little to build up some heat to get it to operating temperature. The spec's state the transmission should be between 86-122 degrees F for full fill.
Sorry, it was getting late, I was hungry and wanted to be done, but I didn't get any final pictures of the skids installed and after the transmission was cleaned of dripped fluid and given a final wipe. I think all that is remaining on this vehicle is the cabin air filter replacement and brake fluid flush, then the owner can pick it up.
Thanks for looking.
ScepterToad
Well-known member
- Joined
- Nov 9, 2023
- Messages
- 335
Nice to see they went back to regular bolts on that pan as opposed to the stupid hold down brackets mine has.
M.Brane
ALLIANCE MEMBER
So much stuff these days is engineered to be assembled quickly with zero regard for servicing/repairing.
rd65
Well-known member
Would something like this work in place of the SilGlyde?
Mission Automotive Silicone Dielectric Grease Paste
OP
zmotorsports
ALLIANCE MEMBER
I don't have any experience with that, but not looking to change at this point as Sil-Glyde does everything I ask of it. Been using it for nearly 40 years now.
ntsqd
Well-known member
The dielectric grease that I've used isn't really meant to be a lubricant. It's more of a corrosion resisting sealant. I haven't used that particular brand, but the Sil-Glyde is a lot more "slippery" than the dielectric grease that I do have.
rd65
Well-known member
Wasnt meaning for you to try, it is what I have at home and was just wondering if I needed to add something new to my pile.
OP
zmotorsports
ALLIANCE MEMBER
I'm sorry, I misunderstood.
I don't have any experience with the one you listed so I can't personally recommend one over the other. I can say that I don't use dielectric grease for lubricating parts where I utilize Sil-Glyde, nor vice-versa. I use both Sil-Glyde and dielectric grease in my shop.
Motown
Well-known member
The ZF OEM fluid is available on Amazon, way cheaper than that over priced Mopar fluid.
Amazon.com: ZF Transmission Fluid 1 Liter Lifeguard Fluid 8. : Automotive
Buy ZF Transmission Fluid 1 Liter Lifeguard Fluid 8.: Transmission Fluids - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases
www.amazon.com
OutlawDrifter
Well-known member
To put it a little more bruntly...NO
Different products. Dialectric keeps the zip zaps from getting destroyed by moisture...also helps plug wires release from plugs after "some" heat cycles.
SilGlyde lubes your o-rings...
Calm down you sinners
, you know what I meant.SilverJimmy
Well-known member
I almost thought @zmotorsports had come down to Prescott today but then realized this was a JL Jeep and Mike wouldn’t be caught dead with one of those things….
But this is for those of you who don’t understand the sickness we speak about.
Yup, the driver of this Jeep is definitely “Handicapped“….. just not how they think they are!
But this is for those of you who don’t understand the sickness we speak about.
Yup, the driver of this Jeep is definitely “Handicapped“….. just not how they think they are!
ntsqd
Well-known member
A plug-in hybrid Rubicon? What is this world coming to?
SilverJimmy
Well-known member
Pretty much explains all them “duckies”!
ntsqd
Well-known member
OTOH, that "Infinite Torque at Zero RPM" thing does sound attractive for crawling......
PugetDude
ALLIANCE MEMBER
rd65
Well-known member
PhantomEB
Well-known member
That’s one summer homework assignment that I know I would of enjoyed.
only thing I intend for my trucks is Voodoo Ranger in the diesel, ready for dirt therapy adventure.
only thing I intend for my trucks is Voodoo Ranger in the diesel, ready for dirt therapy adventure.
OP
zmotorsports
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Thanks. With my discount at the dealership, I was able to get it at nearly the same price as the ZF fluid on Amazon. If at all possible, I really like to support local, when it's within reason anyways.
Goin' to hell in a handbag Thom......
OP
zmotorsports
ALLIANCE MEMBER
I worked late Friday night so I could get the JL done, which would allow me to have breakfast with my son and grandson on Saturday morning.
It took a little longer to flush the brake fluid than usual, but got it done, tires/wheels reinstalled and torque to spec., then a test drive and a call to the owner for pick up.
Saturday morning after breakfast with my son and grandson, I performed a few housekeeping items in the shop.
Hope everyone had a nice weekend.
It took a little longer to flush the brake fluid than usual, but got it done, tires/wheels reinstalled and torque to spec., then a test drive and a call to the owner for pick up.
Saturday morning after breakfast with my son and grandson, I performed a few housekeeping items in the shop.
Hope everyone had a nice weekend.
signcrafter
Well-known member
- Joined
- May 9, 2012
- Messages
- 12,365
That's kind of what I was asking about getting the trans up to temp. I've had some that just didn't want to come up. I believe it was in GM service data that they said to put it in second gear to get it up to temp and that worked for me after trying for a long time in drive.This is where I would have liked to have smacked the engineer who designed this. On the 4-door Wrangler JLU's, the fuel tank is further back allowing full access to the fill/level plug on the side of the transmission, but on the 2-door JL's, the plug is about an inch from the fuel tank skid/cradle.
I had to remove the 8mm insert from one of my sockets and pry the tank skid away very slightly to get the tool into the fill plug, then use a wrench to remove it, being cautious to remove the wrench AND the 8mm insert before the plug was too far out of the threads and remove it the remainder of the way by hand. I also didn't have an adapter that would make the 90-degree bend to put fluid into the fill hole so I had to make one out of a piece of 1/4" tubing and bend it, then shrink it onto one of my syringes to add the fluid. I really need to invest in a small set of fill adapters as this is now the way all manufactures are sealing up their transmissions, so long dipsticks.
Mopar fluid at the ready.
With about 3 qts of fluid in the transmission and it starting to run out, I reinstalled the fill plug cap, started the Jeep and ran it through the ranges as the temperature rose. I had to power brake it a little to build up some heat to get it to operating temperature. The spec's state the transmission should be between 86-122 degrees F for full fill.
Sorry, it was getting late, I was hungry and wanted to be done, but I didn't get any final pictures of the skids installed and after the transmission was cleaned of dripped fluid and given a final wipe. I think all that is remaining on this vehicle is the cabin air filter replacement and brake fluid flush, then the owner can pick it up.
Thanks for looking.
I did a trans service in a ram a while back and they put a bolt right above the exhaust crossover and if I remember right the fill plug was also in a dumb location. Think it was also by exhaust and burned hands putting it in.
OP
zmotorsports
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Scott, so far I really haven't fought to get any up to temperature, a little power braking goes a long ways
, but the location of the fill/fluid level plug on this vehicle was what I was quite frustrated with because it was in a location that made access ridiculous.mike528
Well-known member
So what is your dislike for the 2.0T on the JL? asking so I know how soon I will need to plan to ls swap one... we are closing in on 60K miles on ours and got it with 18K, so far we have been impressed with it performance wise.
OP
zmotorsports
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Excellent question.
Personally, in a lightweight 2-door without the extra 1200-1500 pounds of lift, tires/wheels, bumpers, winch, etc. the 4-cylinder turbo doesn't perform too terribly bad, on the highway. Where I am less than impressed is with its off-road manners. Fire roads no problem, but when it comes to climbing, the low end torque is just not there, so what ends up happening is a little throttle is applied to get up and over an obstacle, then a little more throttle and then a little more and all of a sudden it comes up on boost and lurches. When a vehicle lurches like that they will often times break traction. If going straight up an obstacle it is less of an issue than if off-camber and it breaks traction, that's when the weight of the vehicle will follow gravity. Say the front end is climbing a rock at an angle and the Jeep is off-camber on the obstacle, all of a sudden it breaks traction and the front end slides down the obstacle. Best case this is inconvenient and requires backing off the obstacle and resetting for another try, worst case is the weight can change enough to make the Jeep unstable and even cause an accident.
Again, this may be a bit more subjective, but the group we've run in that has had them most have sold them and replaced with the 3.6 Pentastar shortly afterwards. Don't get me wrong however, as the 3.6 Pentastar also has its own set of issues to contend with, long term. But the drivability and off-road manners are much improved.
mike528
Well-known member
That makes sense, the trails we prefer to take on the off chance we can get out of mid-western Ohio and go somewhere not flat we try to stick to the easy to moderate trails found on OnX, for those it performs pretty well but we haven't gotten in in to anything like what you have access to out there.
SilverJimmy
Well-known member
So Mike, what are these long term 3.6 “issues” that you speak of? Inquiring minds NEED to know!
OP
zmotorsports
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Sterling, the most common are the failing overhead cam lifters which if not caught in time take out the camshafts. The bearings on the lifter rollers fail which most often will destroy the corresponding cam lobe. The best way to combat this is by proper oil change intervals and to NOT do extended service intervals, and even then, I've seen them fail. At least parts are becoming available again for these however, as the last couple of years the camshafts were on backorder, and I've seen Jeeps sitting for months awaiting parts.
Another common failure point is the composite filter housing/oil cooler assembly.
signcrafter
Well-known member
- Joined
- May 9, 2012
- Messages
- 12,365
I've done a handful of the oil cooler assemblies on them. Do you go back with OEM or use the "upgraded" dorman metal ones? I've used both in the past and never had one come back with issues. Usually not a fan of dorman but it's what napa had when I needed one and they are supposedly an upgrade with the metal housing.
OP
zmotorsports
ALLIANCE MEMBER
I've only done a few of them Scott, and like you, I have also used both. I am not a Dorman fan either, but they do tout their "upgraded" one where it is aluminum vs. composite. I have used two OEM ones, and the Dorman was one the owner insisted on using and he supplied. I did it with the caveat that I would not warranty it, but so far it has not come back.
ntsqd
Well-known member
My lone 3.6L owning friend had to replace his cooler/filter part as well. No idea which he used. He's had other issues with it, lost one bank of spark in the ECU that I recall. Don't recall what all else, but I know that there's been a couple others.
Dont forget the burned valves! Seen plenty with those!
I have done a ton of them in the past two months. I have used dorman if I supply them, but have installed several that were Chinese no name ones from Amazon that customers supplied. They have fit as well as the dorman ones do and been issue free so far. I kinda wonder if dormans doesnt come from the same place as the amazons do.
SilverJimmy
Well-known member
GREAT! Now I have more **** to worry about! I also have a F-350 with an 6.Ut-Ooo! Did I tell you Mike that my new shop has a hide-a-bed in the office so you have a place to stay when you come fix all my junk?!
OP
zmotorsports
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Well hell Sterling, sounds like I could retire off of you alone.....
Too Funny!
There is a younger local guy that I've known since he was 16 and got into cars (VWs) and in the past couple years started a mobile car repair business that for all the right reasons blossomed into setting up his own indy shop in his back yard, which is many 3miles from my house. That being said, as those that follow me have seen my recent increase in my project car, which means that the other guy has now taken over for most maintenance items on our fleet, my wife keeps saying, "we better get invited to his holiday customer appreciation party!!!"
aka Larry
Well-known member
Mike is this something I need to replace before it's an issue on mine?
FWIW, I'm using a 3K OCI per Mike's recommendations. Might be unnecessary, but oil is cheap by comparison.
OP
zmotorsports
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Vincent, I think the intervals will aid in prolonging the lifter and cam issues, but the oil cooler/filter housings are kind of hit and miss. Keep an eye out in the valley for oil as that is where they begin showing when they leak.