I want to put bigger, wider, real tires on my garden cart. If I put the hub adapter on the existing axle and still used a cotter pin with a washer, would that work? Would there be a better way? The current axle is just a piece of 3/4 round stock with a cotter pin hole in each end. Getting a longer one would be easy enough, but going bigger would be much more difficult. Any other ideas? I can get a set of 23 inch mower wheels with 4x4 lugs easily enough.
Putting Real Tires on a Garden Cart
- Thread starter Skooterj
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CraigStu
Well-known member
Seems like a good idea to me. On my lawn vac I was tired of flat tires every spring. To get filled no air tires I had to go from a 1" axle to a 3/4" axle. It was more work than I expected but worth it since I haven't had a flat in 2 years. I say go for it w/ my only concern being can you move the attachment on your tractor up to keep the trailer level w/ larger tires?
Hooked
Well-known member
Depending on the size wheels you are planning, can you simply use large spoked wheels on the current 'axle'?
lappwagons.com
I built a garden cart using these type 26" wheels. Large wheels since it's a manual pull cart.
16''- 26'' Spoke Wheels | Flat Free & Pneumatic
Choose between a flat free wire-spoke wheels or an air-filled replacement wheel for any of your machines. Customers love the smooth and quality of these wheels!
lappwagons.com
I built a garden cart using these type 26" wheels. Large wheels since it's a manual pull cart.
LopezBart
Well-known member
Note that lugged tires are pretty useless on a trailer w/o brakes or engine 
..... a turf-type tire will do less damage to damp areas, esp. when the trailer is full of gravel or other heavy material. I used some inexpensive golf-cart take-offs I bought on ebay for several projects such as this trailer our son and I built for our small Kubota. I welded up the axle w/ stub axles and some 2" square tube; the trailer will take 2000 lbs.
..... a turf-type tire will do less damage to damp areas, esp. when the trailer is full of gravel or other heavy material. I used some inexpensive golf-cart take-offs I bought on ebay for several projects such as this trailer our son and I built for our small Kubota. I welded up the axle w/ stub axles and some 2" square tube; the trailer will take 2000 lbs.racecougar
Well-known member
Tapered roller bearings will require a means of adding a little preload. Are you able to thread the ends of the axle?
Firebrick43
Well-known member
He will also need a shoulder on the shaft for the inner bearing race to push against
racecougar
Well-known member
Yep. This is easy stuff if he has a lathe.
Firebrick43
Well-known member
Probably easier (and cheaper) to just buy a stub and hub kit and weld the stub into a tube to make the correct length axle.
www.southwestwheel.com
SOUTHWEST WHEEL® Round R204BT8X BT8 Spindle & 4-4" Bolt Circle Trailer Hub - R2BT8BT121E | Southwest Wheel®
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racecougar
Well-known member
That's easy too if he has a welder. The OP will have to share his capabilities here.
The hub pictured(second, correct picture) is for a 3/4 shaft, no taper. I figured the inside would just ride along a washer against the axle mount like the current wheels do. I guess my question is, for a small, slower application like this is a washer and cotter pin enough to hold the hub on? As opposed to a threaded castle nut and cotter pin like on my highway rated wagon? I guess I could buy a die and thread the end of what will need to be my new longer axle. But if I stay with the current solid 3/4 axle style, no welding or modifications to the actual cart would need to be done.
racecougar
Well-known member
That picture shows tapered roller bearings, which require preload. The wheel/hub will flop all over if you're relying on a cotter pin to retain those.
My plan was to use something like a 20-10x8 or 18-8x8 turf tire from a lawn tractor or golf cart.Note that lugged tires are pretty useless on a trailer w/o brakes or engine
The outer diameter of the bearing is tapered, but the inner is a straight 3/4. At least according to the website description. It was made for a go-cart from axle. Would using the hub with just a cotter pin wiggle around any more then using a wheel with built in bearings in the same set up, because that is how the wagon currently works. This thing tops out at 10MPH tops.That picture shows tapered roller bearings, which require preload. The wheel/hub will flop all over if you're relying on a cotter pin to retain those.
I can find 18-8.5x8 wheels and tires with a 1 inch bore. Maybe I just need to sleeve the 3/4 axle out to 1".
racecougar
Well-known member
Right; they are tapered roller bearings.
Yes, very much so. Your current wheels likely have pressed in ball bearings which do not require preload.
If you want to run the tapered roller bearing setup you posted above, you need a means to provide preload. A washer and a cotter pin aren't going to work out.
What bearing arrangement do those have?
I already have the little garden trailer. I just want to upgrade the tires.
Okay, now I get is. So I need a hub with the same type of bearings my current wheel has. Like this one?
It currently has your basic wagon wheel on it. 13" I believe. I can definitely go bigger, as the wagon sits at a downward lean now when attached to my tractor and zero turn, though not as much when using the zero turn. But I usually pull it with the tractor.
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racecougar
Well-known member
Yes, those would not require preload.
mcj115
Well-known member
Why do you want a hub? you will need to buy hubs and rims and tires along with some fabrication. Why not just look at front tires and rims from a tractor and slide them on the axle direct. I am sure there are plenty of tractors that use 3/4 front axle knuckle. with a quick google search I found these at tractor supply.
How much do you want to spend upgrading a light duty garden trailer when you could just buy a heavier cart with the right tires.
How much do you want to spend upgrading a light duty garden trailer when you could just buy a heavier cart with the right tires.
racecougar
Well-known member
Didn’t the OP want to run a 23” tire?
65ranchero
Well-known member
Wheelbarrow tires (Flat free) and find a way to keep the wheel/hub assembly from moving to close to the inside so it doesn't rub
Somewhere around 23". I think I found a set of 18's that will basically fit now. Probably just need a longer axle. But I can't find anything bigger.
I wanted hubs because I could get all kinds of used 23 ish inch wheels cheap off Marketplace. But I hope the 18's will be big enough. I'm gonna hook it up to the tractor tomorrow, jack it up and see what size would make it basically level.
It just seems to me that these small tires go flat all the time. I've replaced almost all my other tractor attachment trailer tires in the last 2 years, mostly with Northern Tool Tweels. ($16) on sale. But this particular cart needs bigger wheels than the 4.80/4.00-8 that my other carts use. But the highway rated tires on my road rated trailer are 8 years old and still look brand new and have never had a leak. So I wanted to put similar tires on this garden cart.
Renegade1LI
Well-known member
Not sure if it's worth it but why not just buy an axle & bolt it on. Maybe a little overkill but quick & easy.
Or you could just get a 4 bolt to single hole hub adapter.
Or you could just get a 4 bolt to single hole hub adapter.
Renegade1LI
Well-known member
Can even get 3/4" or 5/8"
1" 3/4" 5/8" Axle Shaft Wheel Hub Adapter For ATV Quad Buggy Go Kart Golf Cart | eBay
Product Type:Axle Shaft Wheel Hub Adapter. 1 Axle Shaft Wheel Hub Adapte r. The Hub is over sized to fit over the shaft. Axle H ole Size 1: 25.5mm/1". Axle H ole Size 2: 19mm/0.75",3/4". Axle H ole Size 3: 16mm/0.63",5/8".
www.ebay.com
racecougar
Well-known member
He'd need to bore and bush/bearing it, or the axle. That's a keyed hub. It isn't intended to rotate on a fixed axle.
Renegade1LI
Well-known member
My thinking was a 3/4" piece of round stock through a piece of 1" tube. It provides a decent fit & easy to mount to the cart. I don't really think you need bearings for a small cart, grease the axle & would be fine.
CraigStu
Well-known member
I agree. And a grease ****** on the 1" tube would make it very easy to keep lubed.
racecougar
Well-known member
You could do that, but either the round stock or the tube is going to wear over time. Additionally, with both wheels keyed to a live axle, turning will be far more apt to tear up turf.
CraigStu
Well-known member
I wouldn't worry about wear as long as it is greased but the keyed wheels and tearing grass is a consideration. Back to wheels w/ bearings or bushings.
yatg
Well-known member
how about
Milton Shaw
Well-known member
- Joined
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You might look at axles for trailers at someone like Northern Tool. You might have to cut it down to the width you need and weld it back up but that would give you spring mounts, adjustable for bearing preload and a lot stronger axle than just 3/4" CRS or even 1" CRS. And then you would have choice of hubs 4 or 5 lug etc. And probably give you enough strength that you would never bend.
Okay guys, I picked up some really cheap rear tractor wheels today with keyed, no bearing hubs that fit onto my current diameter axle. I know it's not ideal, but I think I'm just going to buy a longer piece of round stock and just let the wheels rub up against the fixed axle without any bearing and just grease it from time to time. This thing is pulled less than a mile a year, so worse case I need a new axle every couple of years from wear.
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Codyboy
Well-known member
I had one of those this flimsy sheet metal trailers years ago. I never really like it but had to keep it around because is was a gift from my wife.
Ties were always flat it seemed and then they dry rotted.
Luckily my Son IL had a harbor freight or northern tool trailer (can't remember which) that was a real road legal trailer that was about 3x4 or so. Had a real axle and tires , that he hauled all his belongings from Norcal to the east coast where he was stationed as a Marine.
Then to texas . He had built it into an enclosed box about 3ft tall by 3x4.
When I got it I removed the box to use as a lawn trailer.
The axle and tires stuck out further than the frame for stability on the road.
Well that was too wide for my needs , so I chopped the axle down and had it where the outside of the tires where even with the frame.
So now the axle being tucked under presented a problem bolting it back up.
Solution was to use 8" or 10" red iron C purlins for a frame lift. Worked out great!
I also added some length to the frame and built it as a stake bed.
I have been using it for probably 6 years now.
It's great.
I haul all kinds of stuff with it behind the mower.
Here is my remote pressure washer setup.
Has to be at least 650lb with a 55 gallon barrel of water and a pressure washer on it.
No idea what these little trailers go for now but id do it again before buying bigger tires and wheels for a flimsy sheetmetal trailer .
Ties were always flat it seemed and then they dry rotted.
Luckily my Son IL had a harbor freight or northern tool trailer (can't remember which) that was a real road legal trailer that was about 3x4 or so. Had a real axle and tires , that he hauled all his belongings from Norcal to the east coast where he was stationed as a Marine.
Then to texas . He had built it into an enclosed box about 3ft tall by 3x4.
When I got it I removed the box to use as a lawn trailer.
The axle and tires stuck out further than the frame for stability on the road.
Well that was too wide for my needs , so I chopped the axle down and had it where the outside of the tires where even with the frame.
So now the axle being tucked under presented a problem bolting it back up.
Solution was to use 8" or 10" red iron C purlins for a frame lift. Worked out great!
I also added some length to the frame and built it as a stake bed.
I have been using it for probably 6 years now.
It's great.
I haul all kinds of stuff with it behind the mower.
Here is my remote pressure washer setup.
Has to be at least 650lb with a 55 gallon barrel of water and a pressure washer on it.
No idea what these little trailers go for now but id do it again before buying bigger tires and wheels for a flimsy sheetmetal trailer .
racecougar
Well-known member
Will these wheels slide onto the axle as far as the originals, or are you spacing them out to clear the body of the cart? If the latter, know that the weight capacity of the axle will be significantly reduced due to the unsupported portion of the axle at each end. It doesn't take much at all to bend 3/4" round stock.
As is, they need to be further out because they just barely hit the bottom of the trailer if pushed all the way in. But it's only about 2 inches of unsupported axle. But I was thinking about putting a small spacer between the frame and the trailer body so I can slide the wheel all the way under. The trailer is only rated for 500 pounds, but I'll be on the look out for a bent axle.Will these wheels slide onto the axle as far as the originals, or are you spacing them out to clear the body of the cart? If the latter, know that the weight capacity of the axle will be significantly reduced due to the unsupported portion of the axle at each end. It doesn't take much at all to bend 3/4" round stock.
These are 20x10-8 tires. I can get a set of 18x10-8 really cheap, so I might just go that way.