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Beerhippie

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 13, 2023
Messages
9,820
Location
Far NE Oregon
I've got to give a shout-out to this Stihl RMA 510 36V battery mower:

55212366610_1eb0a4c617_o.jpg

I was quite literally mowing through snow squalls. The grass wasn't soaking wet, but far from dry. It was about 6-8" high. The mower never bogged and never dropped any clumps of wet grass--just mulched right on through. It did use a little more battery than in dry grass, but by maybe one bar and not enough to upset my schedule of battery changes.

55212366615_b195141363_o.jpg

After mowing about 1/2 acre of lawn. Any ICE mower I've used would have clogged up and quit. I scraped the accumulated grass out and it might have amounted to one pound.

Here's hoping it does dry out by tomorrow, because I have that much again to do.
 

Skyman

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 9, 2021
Messages
1,172
Location
Central Maryland
Replaced the hard plastic windshield washer lines that had split. Reassembled the stuff that had to be removed to access the lines. Cranked it up, checked for oil leakage, backed it out and tested the new pump and lines. All good now. Sprays better than it has in the twelve years I’ve had it.

Replaced the wiper blades on the C-1500.
 

Beerhippie

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 13, 2023
Messages
9,820
Location
Far NE Oregon
@rharman : We used mosquito coils when sailing the tropics. They work. They work very well. Natural pyrethrins, so no nasty chemicals.

Just get the flat fiberglass-faced holders that can be hung or placed flat on a surface. The tabs they come with are worse than worthless and likely to start a fire.

Here's my preferred holder:

6e7-8929-4829-a938-9c6af270bab4?max=500&quality=80.jpg
 
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Beerhippie

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 13, 2023
Messages
9,820
Location
Far NE Oregon
Back to alternators (Subaru calls it a generator).

Comparing the stators of the two alternators:

55212473865_f7feb7a825_o.jpg

Left is the genuine Mitsubishi. Right is the no-name that died in the rig while driving home at night.

What puzzles me is this:

55211169332_28aa9c6a3f_o.jpg

Only three connections to the electronics? All three are double-wires, where the stock one has three single wires and one double-wire--right where this one has none.

The no-name just feels like junk. Everything feels lighter than the Mitsubishi, and the windings sure look to be a smaller gauge wire. It also came apart much easier than the Mitsubishi, which makes me feel like the castings might not quite be to tolerance.

Outlaw suggested saving the electronics pack from the non-name, but that seems to be what died. While the brushes look fine--and lots left--the commutators slip rings looked like someone took a black crayon to them, which might be what the failure was. I think this alternator goes in the scrap bin.

Waiting for the brewers to get done with the US cleaner so I can use it. Might not be tonight.

Meanwhile, I can pull the steering wheel center cover off of the Brick to see if I can find and fix whatever's causing the horn to honk randomly when driving.

But now, beer. A mile or so of following a mower around the front yard in an intermittent snow storm left me a mite bit thirsty.
 
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Beerhippie

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 13, 2023
Messages
9,820
Location
Far NE Oregon
Looks like they used double wire of a smaller gauge.
Does it have a air bag in the steering wheel or just a contact ring?
No air bag, thankfully.

Here's a pic of the switch I "borrowed" from The Samba:

1333543-jpg.2523364
 

nadogail

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 23, 2009
Messages
31,961
Location
Coronado, CA
Back in the day, horns were two wire, one hot from the battery and the other to the horn button and then on to ground when the horn button was pressed.
Later a Horn relay was added to reduce the current through the horn button.
Any break down in the insulation of the wire Grounding the horn would cause it to blow. Intermittent contact of the wire going from the horn to ground, usually through the wire passing through the steering column would cause intermittent horn sounding.
 

kaymccampbell

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 27, 2015
Messages
29,537
Location
Upstate New York
Back to alternators (Subaru call it a generator).

Comparing the stators of the two alternators:

55212473865_f7feb7a825_o.jpg

Left is the genuine Mitsubishi. Right is the no-name that died in the rig while driving home at night.

What puzzles me is this:

55211169332_28aa9c6a3f_o.jpg

Only three connections to the electronics? All three are double-wires, where the stock one has three single wires and one double-wire--right where this one has none.

The no-name just feels like junk. Everything feels lighter than the Mitsubishi, and the windings sure look to be a smaller gauge wire. It also came apart much easier than the Mitsubishi, which makes me feel like the castings might not quite be to tolerance.

Outlaw suggested saving the electronics pack from the non-name, but it seems to be what died. While the brushes look fine--and lots left--the commutators slip rings looked like someone took a black crayon to them, which might be what the failure was. I think this alternator goes in the scrap bin.

Waiting for the brewers to get done with the US cleaner so I can use it. Might not be tonight.

Meanwhile, I can pull the steering wheel center cover off of the Brick to see if I can find and fix whatever's causing the horn to honk randomly when driving.

But now, beer. A mile or so of following a mower around the front yard in an intermittent snow storm left me a mite bit thirsty.
Be careful washing it. Solvent and digestive cleaners can cook the varnish off the windings. I use Dawn and hot water. And lots of air to dry things off.
 

Beerhippie

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 13, 2023
Messages
9,820
Location
Far NE Oregon
A lot of times the beeping when turning is from under the steering wheel where the contact is, does it still beep with the horn button(center piece) removed?
Haven't take it apart yet. It's still beer break.
Back in the day, horns were two wire, one hot from the battery and the other to the horn button and then on to ground when the horn button was pressed.
Later a Horn relay was added to reduce the current through the horn button.
Any break down in the insulation of the wire Grounding the horn would cause it to blow. Intermittent contact of the wire going from the horn to ground, usually through the wire passing through the steering column would cause intermittent horn sounding.
That's what I recall, and what this appears to be. Older VWs had a single wire to the horn button that connected to ground when pressed. The wire came up through the center of the column and tended to get the insulation worn off near the bottom of the column, causing the honking issue. This has two wires, which still seem to be grounds, going to a slip-ring and brushed under the wheel--according to the manual.

Like I said, no great hurry to get 'er fixed. Right now, I can pretty much afford to fill the tank on one of my vehicles per pay period, and it's the Toy's turn this time around. $60 for a little less than 12 gallons....
 
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barks

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 2, 2010
Messages
324
Got a start on rebuilding an alternator--a first for me.

55208436389_ce458d7daf_o.jpg

A little soap and a buzz in the ultrasonic, a little paint and

55209419537_7eae088b93_o.jpg

I removed the label and glued it back on after the cleaning. It's handy to have.

The other half is at the shop waiting its turn to get the bearings pressed off (too big for any of my vises).

Parts should be here early next week, so no hurry. This will be a spare to carry in my spares road box.
 

firebirdparts

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 8, 2016
Messages
10,630
Location
Kingsport, TN
I am adding some gussets to a weight bench. It was designed to incline and unfortunately the lowest (flat) setting is the weakest. That's the position where you can lift the most. I broke it. Could have killed me, I guess, but anyway it didn't. I am also going to add some legs that primarily work in the flat position.
 

Beerhippie

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 13, 2023
Messages
9,820
Location
Far NE Oregon
I am adding some gussets to a weight bench. It was designed to incline and unfortunately the lowest (flat) setting is the weakest. That's the position where you can lift the most. I broke it. Could have killed me, I guess, but anyway it didn't. I am also going to add some legs that primarily work in the flat position.
Um, uh, spotter?
 

micromind

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 24, 2023
Messages
3,058
Location
Fernley, Nevada, about 30 miles east of Reno.
Back to alternators (Subaru call it a generator).

Comparing the stators of the two alternators:

55212473865_f7feb7a825_o.jpg

Left is the genuine Mitsubishi. Right is the no-name that died in the rig while driving home at night.

What puzzles me is this:

55211169332_28aa9c6a3f_o.jpg

Only three connections to the electronics? All three are double-wires, where the stock one has three single wires and one double-wire--right where this one has none.

The no-name just feels like junk. Everything feels lighter than the Mitsubishi, and the windings sure look to be a smaller gauge wire. It also came apart much easier than the Mitsubishi, which makes me feel like the castings might not quite be to tolerance.

Outlaw suggested saving the electronics pack from the non-name, but it seems to be what died. While the brushes look fine--and lots left--the commutators slip rings looked like someone took a black crayon to them, which might be what the failure was. I think this alternator goes in the scrap bin.

Waiting for the brewers to get done with the US cleaner so I can use it. Might not be tonight.

Meanwhile, I can pull the steering wheel center cover off of the Brick to see if I can find and fix whatever's causing the horn to honk randomly when driving.

But now, beer. A mile or so of following a mower around the front yard in an intermittent snow storm left me a mite bit thirsty.

Automotive alternators are 3Ø units. 3Ø stators have 6 wires, they can be connected either ∆ or Y. If there are 3 sets of 2, it's a ∆ connection. If 3 single wires plus one set of 3, it's a Y. Usually the center of the Y (3 wires) is spliced in the stator and is not brought out.

The advantage of a ∆ connection is higher output current for the same size of winding wire. The disadvantage is much lower current at slower speeds. Sometimes zero at idle.

The advantage to the Y connection is more current at slower speeds, the disadvantage is lower current for the same size wire as the ∆.
 

Beerhippie

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 13, 2023
Messages
9,820
Location
Far NE Oregon
Automotive alternators are 3Ø units. 3Ø stators have 6 wires, they can be connected either ∆ or Y. If there are 3 sets of 2, it's a ∆ connection. If 3 single wires plus one set of 3, it's a Y. Usually the center of the Y (3 wires) is spliced in the stator and is not brought out.

The advantage of a ∆ connection is higher output current for the same size of winding wire. The disadvantage is much lower current at slower speeds. Sometimes zero at idle.

The advantage to the Y connection is more current at slower speeds, the disadvantage is lower current for the same size wire as the ∆.
I wasn't aware that alternators are 3 phase. Delta and Wye I'm familiar with, but on the draw side. Thanks!

I'm still tossing the no-name alt and staying with the Mitsubishi.
 

bugnut

ALLIANCE MEMBER
Joined
Jul 14, 2012
Messages
3,915
Location
Central Ohio
Repaired the drop box for delivered items as 1 hinge gave up the ghost. In reviewing a second was on the way out. The online folks had a few different prints so grabbed one tested and printed hinges. Newly printed installed and the garage sale find box lives on.
While fixing that USPS stopped by to put a package in the box, carrier asked if it had been stolen, told them it was in the shop for rework. Got my package. Opened and the linkage for the Ford tractor brake was in hand. Tested and refitted. Had to dremel grind the connecting pin holes for making the pin slide in. Done installed and tested taking a quick travel around the yard and everything seems to be in order. Then using some VW beetle leftover fabric from the seatback on the Sport used it to cutout a mat for the shiny surfaces on the tool cart. Had enough for one cart. Done!

Question for the team, will double stick tape on the carpet like fabric ruin the shiny red paint, I'd like to adhere the mat to the tool cart, thoughts?
 

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DGersic

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 12, 2017
Messages
6,326
Location
DeKalb, IL
Question for the team, will double stick tape on the carpet like fabric ruin the shiny red paint, I'd like to adhere the mat to the tool cart, thoughts?

Actual carpet tape should turn to a gooey mess, but should come off with Goo Gone, probably without damaging the paint.

You could also try freezing the adhesive off someday when you want to remove it,
 

Jgaz

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 16, 2016
Messages
1,671
Location
AZ
Automotive alternators are 3Ø units. 3Ø stators have 6 wires, they can be connected either ∆ or Y. If there are 3 sets of 2, it's a ∆ connection. If 3 single wires plus one set of 3, it's a Y. Usually the center of the Y (3 wires) is spliced in the stator and is not brought out.

The advantage of a ∆ connection is higher output current for the same size of winding wire. The disadvantage is much lower current at slower speeds. Sometimes zero at idle.

The advantage to the Y connection is more current at slower speeds, the disadvantage is lower current for the same size wire as the ∆.
Excellent tutorial!
 

madison069

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 5, 2010
Messages
4,175
Location
Monroeville, PA
Took an old Teumsah (Craftsman) and a Briggs & Stratton lawn mower engine out of moth balls (after 30 years). Plan to sell once I identify them.....
IMG_3249r.jpg

IMG_3248r.jpg
@madison069 need any spare engines?

Those engines are up in the vintage class for sure! I never seen an engine control knob like on the first engine. The second engine reminds me of my teenage year mower that I repaired to cut customer's yard with, but mine was white with that pull up rope start setup!
 

Beerhippie

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 13, 2023
Messages
9,820
Location
Far NE Oregon
Diagnosed a propane water heater for the kitchen/pub that went gunny-bag last night ad triggered the smoke alarm upstairs, causing the floor to be abandoned. It had really stunk the room up with soot and partially-burned propane stink. Ordered a new one--these damned things are not built to be repaired--it's all or nothing. Fortunately, we still have one heater--we run two in series--so we can still make hot water for the weekend, albeit slowly.

Finished mowing lawns for the week, sans snow squalls. Much more pleasant.

I think I'll run down valley a way to one of my honey-holes that just reopened for the season this afternoon.

Then back to working on the Brick. I have some ideas for what the random honking might be, as suggested by the gurus over at The Samba.
 

930dreamer

Super Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Oct 7, 2009
Messages
22,958
Location
Amarillo,TX and Stinnett,TX
Fuel filter change and the filter housing drain assembly. 2000 F350, 7.3 diesel
** A good note is that if you don't position the drain handle in the middle once you assembly it, it's block by a casting on the housing and you have to do it again. Ask me how I know.
 

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