wyliesdiesels
Well-known member
those are not back stab style devicesAny of you sparkys here back stabbing devices?
those are not back stab style devicesAny of you sparkys here back stabbing devices?
ever used a Spec grade receptacle? they have side clamps under the screws. definitely NOT push-wire "back-stab" type connections which have a thin wire spring that holds the wire in place. a pressure plate is far different than a thin wire spring.... try looking up the differences...Sure looks like it in the photo. I see a Wago looking clamp. Too bad we can't see the contact area
And way easier to chase... Just spent and hour and had to find my original PHOTO of the electrician's hand-written mark up of house plans to figure out one of the garage GFI was located on the exterior of the house..Wouldn't a gfci circuit breaker work and be cheaper?
Leviton has a video on their website that briefly shows the locking mechanism and contact area.

Any of you sparkys here back stabbing devices?
Any sparkys using a Wagos?
Its not all about wire retention. My concern is the surface area of the contact.Leviton has a video on their website that briefly shows the locking mechanism and contact area.
Lever Edge
leviton.com
This video demonstrates the wire retention strength.
Whereas back stab connections look like this:
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Seen them? Yes, I have a bag full of them that came with various lighting fixtures installed. Want them? German engineering ain't the be all and end all, although they would have you think otherwise and NEVER admit an engineering mistake.Didnt connect the dots @rust in the eye eh?
Have you ever seen or used a Wago? Google those and also feel free to click the link I left in my post. If you cant trust Leviton and German engineering then I guess youre stuck with those terrible flatheadphillipsrobertson screws
I'm familiar with and use those, this is not that.ever used a Spec grade receptacle? they have side clamps under the screws. definitely NOT push-wire "back-stab" type connections which have a thin wire spring that holds the wire in place. a pressure plate is far different than a thin wire spring.... try looking up the differences...
I expect that no data or video will change your opinion on this.Its not all about wire retention. My concern is the surface area of the contact.
I've not seen anything to indicate contact area, important when the going gets tough. If an equal contact area to a properly done up screw connection or the backwired clamp type can be demonstrated I'm in.I expect that no data or video will change your opinion on this.
And that's OK. No need to use a wago and there are plenty of other options
Have you looked? I bet it's out thereI've not seen anything to indicate contact area, important when the going gets tough. If an equal contact area to a properly done up screw connection or the backwired clamp type can be demonstrated I'm in.
You are getting wago's with lighting fixtures? I've only ever gotten push in with fixtures, not wago lever nuts.Seen them? Yes, I have a bag full of them that came with various lighting fixtures installed. Want them? German engineering ain't the be all and end all, although they would have you think otherwise and NEVER admit an engineering mistake.
I have no trouble operating a screwdriver.
Yep, you are right they are push in. I confused them with Wago.You are getting wago's with lighting fixtures? I've only ever gotten push in with fixtures, not wago lever nuts.
They aren't the same
Nope, I'm not trying to make a case for them.Have you looked? I bet it's out there

Since i just got done retrofitting 20+ receptacles and switches with these I JUST HAD TO check
Performed the same test, 12g solid copper, cut to correct length (indicated on product), pulled, twisted, abused....
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Broke the copper strands both times before any noticeable pull out?
I would argue the same would happen with traditional screw retention devices. I call BS
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I haven't seen a fixture with a push in yet; lately all of them have either lever nuts that aren't Wago brand or nothing. I do use the provided lever nuts, the load of one fixture isn't going to be enough to cause a failure.You are getting wago's with lighting fixtures? I've only ever gotten push in with fixtures, not wago lever nuts.
They aren't the same
This is what I think of for eachI haven't seen a fixture with a push in yet; lately all of them have either lever nuts that aren't Wago brand or nothing. I do use the provided lever nuts, the load of one fixture isn't going to be enough to cause a failure.
This is another example of location being everything. Here, Wago refers to any push in wire connector where lever nut means exactly that and neither one is brand specific.


I haven't seen those and didn't know they made them.
OK, but I'm still calling cotton swabs Q-tips.I haven't seen those and didn't know they made them.
I'll no longer refer to wago lever nuts as wagos
Fine!OK, but I'm still calling cotton swabs Q-tips.
Fine!
A "WAGA PUSH"

You deserve a band-aide slapped across your mouth for saying that.OK, but I'm still calling cotton swabs Q-tips.
Can you do mimeo-graph instead?anyone need a xerox'd document?
I wouldn't call them high end, but there is a lighting supplier I work with and the fixtures I get from them either have lever nuts or nothing; lately I've been on a helluva run and installed about 30 wall packs that came with lever nuts, the same for tube ready linear high bays. Tube ready strip lights have nothing, UFO high bays and parking lot pole fixtures have a cord, obviously with no connectors. I can't think of anything else I've bought from them, but what I have purchased, there has been a bunch of everything. I don't even know the brands, I just call the sales rep, tell him what I need and where I want it delivered to and if it's in stock it will be there within 48 hours.You get fixtures with lever nuts? Is that high end stuff? I've never seen one included with a fixture
We use NDR brand 'wafer' lights. (Not all are wafer, a lot of gimble fixtures have significant depth) I probably use a couple thousand a year. They all come with the push in style wago's . We use them. But years ago on the old school recessed cans, I'd also cut them off and use wirenuts.Outside of the old school recessed can housings that I haven't installed in at least 10 years, I don't think I have seen a push in style included with a fixture and I chopped those off to make room for wire nuts first thing when installing them
You're right. Wafer lights have push in's but I install so few of them that I had forgotten. I do just enough new residential work to remind myself why I don't do new residential work. One house about every three code cycles is plenty.We use NDR brand 'wafer' lights. (Not all are wafer, a lot of gimble fixtures have significant depth) I probably use a couple thousand a year. They all come with the push in style wago's . We use them. But years ago on the old school recessed cans, I'd also cut them off and use wirenuts.
HA! I can see why. I have 3 guys working, and new residential pays in this area. 2 are young guys that can really move. I work full time as a building inspector, and have just enough free time to lay things out for them and bill/ collect/ walk-through/ etc. I mostly do semi-custom homes, for only about 6-8 builders. And along with some very custom. I couldn't pay for the NDR's if it was builder spec. I can buy almost anything else for 1/2 or 1/4 of a regressed NDR. We also use some higher end (relatively speaking) RAB and Halo's especially for 2 story or sloped ceilings.You're right. Wafer lights have push in's but I install so few of them that I had forgotten. I do just enough new residential work to remind myself why I don't do new residential work. One house about every three code cycles is plenty.





Gotta keep firefighters employedNow that we are properly off topic... sorry @Junkman
I have been using some highly rated Amazon chinese dimmer switches for the last 2yrs, no issues with those. In fact as good or better when I compared them to about 6 other brands including Leviton and Lutron from HD.
These arent responsible for protecting the circuit, but im sure it will ruffle some feathers here
Tried all of these landed on ELEGRP dimmers
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I always read the user details in the reviews. But often the ratings are short term. So you bought it last week it works well this week.I have been using some highly rated Amazon
Recently, I've swapped out several switches, outlets and GFCIs with Leviton and Lutron. The Levitons are marked Mexico or China. I just make sure anything I use is UL or ETL listed and locally sourced. Even the certifications can be faked.I have been using some highly rated Amazon chinese dimmer switches for the last 2yrs, no issues with those. In fact as good or better when I compared them to about 6 other brands including Leviton and Lutron from HD.