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32x40 build in the Yukon

yukongarage

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Apr 30, 2026
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I finally have enough set aside to start building my garage - wish I could have started years ago when things were cheaper (and easier) but here we are.
I live just outside Whitehorse, Yukon, and the hope this year is to get the cement in and the shell up. Summers are short here and we jam a lot into them, so we will see how far I get.

We now have geotech requirements here and my soil will not allow a simple thickened edge slab, so i am doing a traditional footing and wall, but constructing with ICF blocks. I will have scissor trusses and 12' walls - hopefully can add an extra foot of height by bringing the cement a foot above grade, we'll see.

Plan is for a single garage door plus a man door, lift in back left corner in line with the garage door. Use will be vehicle restoration for 2/3 the space, woodworking in front of the man door and likely add a small mezanine in back right. I have a 53' seacan that, once the inspectors leave, I will extend the roof over for additional storage and parking along the side. Ideally, i will squeeze enough height out of the garage door to back my 25' boat in if it needs work and have enough space to work on vehicle projects (unimog 404, land cruisers, a100 pick up).

Door height in rendering is smaller than what I will frame in, hopefully enough height for a 12' door - windows, electrical, insulation to be added as budget and time alllow over next couple of years.

For now, I have permit approval and a concrete guy lined up - happy to take advice, but the budget is tight,
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nadogail

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Jan 23, 2009
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Coronado, CA
Welcome to the Forum from the Southwestern corner of California. I have found memories of my visits to White Horse on several trips up and down the Alaska Highway. I lived in Anchorage for several years, my first visits were with my parents and brothers. The others were solo trips in my own pickup.
Good luck on your projects, building the garage is just one. Adding the addition to your Sea Can will be another major one.
 

coldh2o

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May 21, 2013
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Ontario, Canada
Welcome fellow Canuck! My mom has lived in Whitehorse for almost 30 years, what a beautiful part of the country. Good luck with your build.
 

carlaisle

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You should anticipate problems installing a 12' overhead door into a building with 12' walls. You may be able to pull it off with the scissor trusses, but don't be surprised if it proves problematic. You'll need to be creative with the framing. I would encourage you to carefully think about the mezzanine idea. If you go with a 7' ceiling height on the ground floor and allow 1' for the mezzanine structure you will only have 4' at the exterior walls. This may be fine for your purposes - just something to be sure you consider in advance. Attic trusses might be more practical.
 
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yukongarage

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Apr 30, 2026
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Thanks folks,

@lovetap for the permitting process, the build is unheated, but eventually I'd like to install a waste oil heater or big wood stove.

@carlaisle yes, getting a 12' door inthere will be a challenge. my hope is that the 12' wall, plus a foot on the foundation and possibly moving the structural framing up into the non-load bearing space could get me there. It will also be a seldom used door - i have long term projects and rarely have to do quick in and outs, so I will be open to different door styles - or I just drop it to an 11' door.

Regarding the mezzanine, yes, it will be tight. A bit of storage and a couch on the short wall maybe, we'll see - could also just use the upper space for just storage. Reason I am looking at it is the potential to have a smaller, heated space at floor level for projects in the winter. Saves me heating the whole space each time I go in if I use a bit of insulation and some sort of roll up plastic or canvas wall - haven't really thought that through yet.
 

kwb

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It seems to me you are in snow country? I would want 2 or 3 feet (or more) of foundation above grade. You want to keep the snow off your walls.

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I came here to say the same thing. I would get at least 16" and have at least 2' of eve overhang.
Solves the door problem very easily. I have 14' walls and a 14' door 6' offset from the side wall with scissor truss. No problem whatsoever. Track is still 8-10" from the bottom of the truss.
 
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yukongarage

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Apr 30, 2026
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@kwb our code requirements here are simply 6" from the ground level must be PWF treated wood (or cement), the code is more focused on snow loading, frost jacking and drainage (to prevent frost jacking). But you are both right, and I am hopefull that three courses of ICF plus the 10" footing strip will geve me at least a foot off grade and get me that extra height. the 12' door is in the would be nice category, not critical.
The other consideration is we typically see one melt a year, we have very rapid springs here - for example, 3' of snow have melted off the property and I expect the last foot to go this week so with good drainage, we don't tend to see a lot of wet against the building - anyway, we'll see how deep the geotech requires and go from there.
 
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kngelv

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May 25, 2011
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Detroit, MI
Your garage door is far too narrow. Go at least 16' wide. Your height is too low for a mezzanine. A 25' boat backing directly inline with the lift will not work very well with a 40' depth. You need to graph this out or use some software. If you have a car on the lift and back the boat straight in then you won't have any room to work.

James
 
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yukongarage

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Apr 30, 2026
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Thanks for the thoughts James, I may have mentioned earlier that the longer term plan for the boat is not in the garage, but under a carport side wing on the structure, I would only back it in if I was working on it, and there wouldnt be a car on the lift at that point. Good thoughts on the door, I dont think I can afford or want to deal with a 16' wide door, but moving up to a 12 might be a good idea and help. I think when I say mezannine, people are thinking something grand - I am not - storage of longer term car parts on the short height wall, maybe a couch on the high side where my ceiling height will reach 15-16'; 6.5' clearance underneath, maybe just 8' depth. Anyway, bigger would be nicer, but I don't have the budget - this will be spectacular against pulling engines on dirt which I am doing now. thanks
 
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jollygreengiant

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I'll be watching this one. Be sure to post some pics, it's neat to see the different locations.

As far as advice? Finish it all before you start moving stuff in. Otherwise you won't. And don't mess around with only heating a small area. insulate, air seal, and heat the whole thing. That's the two biggest regrets I have with mine. Hopefully I'm going to rectify the heating problem this year so all my tools can stop rusting every time it warms up in the spring

I think your layout will work well. I'm doing the same, with a long narrow half for vehicles, and the other narrow half for woodworking and storage. Just be sure that if you are putting a lift in, that it will be wide enough to get your boat backed in between the posts.
 
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yukongarage

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Apr 30, 2026
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Thanks @jollygreengiant hope you have a good supply of popcorn, this will be a slow build ground is still frozen here. I wish I could do everything at once, i am trying hard to keep this a cash build and the resources aren't deep enough to do all in one year. Good thought re the lift, appreciate that. Another one I had from someone I work with is to make the mandoor a double door - allows sleds, projects, atvs and such in and out without needing to open the garage door, esp when we are sub-freezing here.
 

jollygreengiant

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I hear you on the budget. I'm doing the same approach with mine.

That's a good thought on a double door. I didn't think of it because my door is a tri fold so I don't have to open the whole thing to get a small vehicle out.
 

PhantomEB

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Medicine Hat, AB, Canuckistan
Lookin forward to your progress. Medicine Hat, Alberta here.

myself if you going 12’ ceiling even with scissor trusses, I would either Center the big door for max head room or go 10’ door. Definitely in the 16’ door width though.
 

BruceMc

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Fairbanks, AK
I'm over here in Fairbanks. Even if you don't plan to insulate the structure right now, get some insulation under the slab. You only get one chance to do it. I put 4" under mine and wish I had gone 6". What's your permafrost situation?
 
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yukongarage

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Apr 30, 2026
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@T VETTE not sure why anyone would want to see my mess, but here is the location - left of the seacan, shack extension will me removed for the build then reinstalled to match the roof line.

@PhantomEB I still debate centering the door, but I think to the left gives me good versatility and in the future, an options to put a second door in as need and funds allow - i am still not decided on door style though - i'd like to maximize height if I ever want to bring in the boat for work or RV, 16' maybe, but that's not a trivial jump in price for that width and height, folding, roller, haven't decided.

@BruceMc yes, has to be insulated per code, including up to an 8' perimeter.

Talked to my concrete guy yesterday, with a kids wedding in June, looking at later July for the pour. then we'll see where I am at financially and can maybe do walls and roof this year - quote on trusses alone is 7300$ ugh.20260512_062458.jpg
 
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yukongarage

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Apr 30, 2026
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lol, that's the only one that survived the winter snow this year - my son uses it for his motorcycle projects so he was diligent to clear the weight regularly...
 

Metal-Marc

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lol, that's the only one that survived the winter snow this year - my son uses it for his motorcycle projects so he was diligent to clear the weight regularly...
Notice the slight lean. The front left pole started to buckle over the winter and I had to do an emergency repair with flatbars and hose clamps.
 
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