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What's the minimum stud spacing for a 12 x 12 storage shed?

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545_days

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I spent a lot of time in "temporary" WW2 era buildings built with studs on 48" centers in the 1990's.

Edit to add: After some research to confirm my memories I found that some buildings built to theater of operations standards were constructed with 2x6 studs on 8 foot centers. 😮
 
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strutaeng

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I did a roof overbuild at my house (living room portion) and used 23/32" plywood for the roof deck, spanning 48" o.c. supported by trusses.

I've walked on it and it feels less bouncy than the regular 7/16 osb at 24" o.c.

You can achieve a very tight deflection criteria (for ceramic tile installation, for example) using 1 1/8" Stud-i-floor deck supported at 24" o.c. or less with some TJI joists.

It really depends on what you are trying to accomplish and willing to pay for. Or make things as lean, light and reduce costs...
 
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BurtEggley

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also might depend on whether you plan on insulating it someday. Most of the big box stores here only stock 15.25" wide R-13 batts.
 
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Hooked

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One of our shed builds, when funds were very tight.
In 1980 we built a 12x16 'quick and dirty' chicken coop using untreated 2x4s 24"OC and 2x4 rafters the same. Put some 6" 4' treated posts on 4' centers about 30" in the ground. Siding is corrugated fiberglass sheets and roof is hot dipped galvanized corrugated panels (used and free). Framed and sided windows on three sides for air flow during the day and closed at night for protection. No cross bracing.
This building has survived multiple hurricanes with 100+ winds, many storms with high winds, etc. and is finally beginning to 'lean' due to the use of untreated interior materials. Should we tear it down, sure. But it has a lot of character and sentimental value when sitting with a cup of coffee looking out the kitchen window. ;)

I think your shed with 24"OC framing will do just fine
 
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OldCarGuy

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The cost difference between 16” and 24” construction is minimal. And is more of a personal choice, not withstanding building codes. I've seen country side buildings using 2x4 rafters 24” OC on a 12' low pitch roof. That have stood the test of time. My preference is always 16” everywhere. Though I have used 12" OC for floor joists.

I got tired of juggling things around to get my small Ingersoll garden tractor and scissors out. Answer I built this 15' by 16' shed. Studs are 2x4's and rafter are 2x8,, 16” OC. Using 5/8” T11 siding and 5/8” roof sheeting. Insulation in walls and ceiling. Always use 5/8” type X fire-rated drywall. Where possible using 4' by 12' sheets. Installed 240 Volt 60 Amp load. All wiring 12-2 romex. LED lights, and electric door opener. Heated and A/C from a small through the wall unit. Garage door was in my stash 10' wide 8' tall that's insulated. Then 36 steel man door was also in my stash. The build took me two weeks..
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Paint and epoxy coated floor a nice touch..
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The 14" gear head lathe found a home inside..
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Below is a 15' by 30' lean-to I constructed with the same construction as the shed. But has a 240Volt 100Amp load center. Build set me back three weeks of time.
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MajicPac Through the wall gas heat and electric AC unit..
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Superbowl

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The maxium spacing depends on the siding you choose. If using 4x8 sheets of T-111 four foot is the max because you need one at each joint. 😄

More seriously, the important thing in designing a shed is to start with the roof size to minimize waste. If you want your shed to be approximately 16x12 you can't make the floor 16x12 if you want an over hang and not have to put a small piece in. A three inch roof overhang on each end works well. Therefore, make the floor length 15'-6". With T-111, let the front siding hang past the side walls and scribe and cut the front end panel after you put the side panels on. That way the end plys of the siding will not be visible.
 
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remagenman

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To resurrect my old posting, yesterday at Home Depot I wanted to see the inside of a $2000 10x12 they sell.....wow.
 

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PCustoms

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mm08822 said:
Were they in or around a shed?
Click to expand...

Not that specific one, but used to stop at a HD on a long drive to let the dog stretch his legs and use the bathroom...he became infatuated with one of the sheds so I opened it. I won't go into the details but let's just say it was clear someone been "using" it for a while. I really hope they burned that and didn't just hose it out and sell it
 
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mike93lx

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remagenman said:
To resurrect my old posting, yesterday at Home Depot I wanted to see the inside of a $2000 10x12 they sell.....wow.
Click to expand...
That looks the same construction as the $1k 10x10 kit I bought in 2013. Survived 8ish MA winters with some reinforcing. My main issue was the low doorway that I hit my head on a bunch of time.
 
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Model A Fan

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Bert_ said:
Another shed I built. This one is double 2x4 studs on 48" centers.


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Did you build your trusses yourself? I'd like to build a 30'x40'x10' sidewall garage and rip off my old one, but construction costs in my area are pretty high. I'm thinking I'll hire out the excavation and leveling of the site, have a slab poured that is 34' or 36' deep and 44'-46' long and 4"-6" thick, and slowly frame the whole thing myself and just slowly plug away at it. A large undertaking to say the least. It would only be for projects and parking cars in it and my project Jeep. No lift or anything like that.
 
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Bert_

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Model A Fan said:
Did you build your trusses yourself? I'd like to build a 30'x40'x10' sidewall garage and rip off my old one, but construction costs in my area are pretty high. I'm thinking I'll hire out the excavation and leveling of the site, have a slab poured that is 34' or 36' deep and 44'-46' long and 4"-6" thick, and slowly frame the whole thing myself and just slowly plug away at it. A large undertaking to say the least. It would only be for projects and parking cars in it and my project Jeep. No lift or anything like that.
Click to expand...
Yes I did. I figured the cost of materials to build them vs a premade truss. I think it saved about $80 per truss. Took about 45 minutes to build the first one, then about 25 minutes for each one after that.

They are 24' wide. 2x8 top cord, 2x4 for everything else. I built them on the ground and lifted into place with a loader.

I think I decided after the fact I could have/should have gone 28' wide and used the same size lumber.

I built the absolute simplest truss for mine. 30' wide might be better to go a W design. Or just use bigger lumber and keep it simple, cost vs time.

Use LOTS of nails
 
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MovingAlong

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remagenman said:
To resurrect my old posting, yesterday at Home Depot I wanted to see the inside of a $2000 10x12 they sell.....wow.
Click to expand...

And they sell them all day long... lot's of folks very happy with their Tuff Sheds. (y)

After searching around and finding that many shed movers won't move Tuff Sheds, realized they might be being built on-site for a few different reasons. :dunno:

Building my own was an excuse for the experience and to buy a few new tools. And while I did both my 2x6 walls and rafters/ceiling joists (no trusses) on 16" centers, I'd switch the roof to 24" centers next time. It's a pain working around a 12'x16' 5/12 pitch hip roof on 16" centers, my tail would have fit much better between 24" rafters! :ROFLMAO:

Plus I built it with 20" soffit overhang and gutters. Don't get that with Tuff Sheds..
 
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MovingAlong

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mike93lx said:
That one pictured isn't a tuff shed and pales in comparison
Click to expand...

I did like the Tuff Sheds, lot's of good features. Wasn't trying to imply mine was better, only that it was built to my specs which were not available with the others. And with the clarity of hindsight - the Tuff Shed would have been so much more affordable! :coffee:
 
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rust in the eye

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My garden shed is 10 x 12, studs 24" on center.
I used 24" centers not to save money on a few studs but for wider spacing between the exposed studs to store things.
Mine has been standing for 6 or 7 years now in Chicago where we have high winds and sometimes considerable snow loads.
 

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