Anyone have a Reed 403-1/2R Vise?

[Outlawmws]

I got one this past weekend, and it's missing the tapered pin for the swivel jaw.

I'm looking for dimensions and a good pic so I can make the pin.

TIA

Pics of my Reed:

 

[ssffnomad]

Not the best Pic. It,s a # 403. Would that be same Pin as # 403 1/2 ? I have never used this one yet. Quess it,s time to clean up . Really late, crawling out of Garage now. Please send info about Swivel Pin removal. I will try to help you tomorrow

 

[bgott]

Do you have an old drill bit around in #1 or #2 Morse taper? I'm not positive but you could try it and see.

 

[Outlawmws]

Not the best Pic. It,s a # 403. Would that be same Pin as # 403 1/2 ? I have never used this one yet. Quess it,s time to clean up . Really late, crawling out of Garage now. Please send info about Swivel Pin removal. I will try to help you tomorrow

It is certainly worth a try from a 3 to s 3-1/2"; I doubt they wanted to have a ton of different tooling...

It may be as simple as getting pliers or a vise grip on the "head", and twisting a bit to break it loose, depending on how hard it was hammered into the tapered hole. On mine the hole goes through to the dynamic jaw's slider hole, so you may be able to get to the pin from the bottom once the D. jaw is out...

Thanks!

 

[Outlawmws]

Do you have an old drill bit around in #1 or #2 Morse taper? I'm not positive but you could try it and see.

Good thought, and I have a fistful of 9/16 drills in #2 Morse, and it's way too big... No clues or hints on #1...

 

[Outlawmws]

bump for the day time crowd-

 

[jc01]

Hope this helps.

 

[ssffnomad]

jc01, good info. This is the Vise place to be around.
OK, looks like mine is Broke off , and drove in tight. Now i need a little help. This is my first Vise Rehab, so please be gentle . I got the Jaw out, and Base off. Question is, how do i get the Part inside of Base, that has Threads, out of Base ? If i could remove that, i would be able to flip upside down, and drive out Tapered Swivel Pin.

 

[Outlawmws]

JC01, Thank you, that is perfect! I can duplicate it with that info!

 

[jc01]

There is another pin that holds the "nut" in place, remove it and the nut and it will give you access to the underneath side of swivel jaw pin. You will have to hit from the bottom (for both pins). You will need a long punch and wouldn't hurt to soak in penetrating oil.

 

[Outlawmws]

jc01, another question: Would you consider that pin to be soft, or hard?

I'm thinking starting with 5/8 mild steel bar, or a Grade 5 bolt, or does it need to be really hard like grade 8?

Same question to ssffnomad, since you are going to be beating on yours a bit...

I'm thinking a little on the soft side so the pin deforms to the jaw & body...

BTW it is NOT a #1 Morse taper, it's almost 1/2 degree off, (larger) 3.2817 deg to be exact... I will have to do as best I can with carriage setup, and use the dimensions given to verify...

 

[ssffnomad]

Thanks, i now have it all apart, time to soak.
Badlands, you know alot more about materials than i do. Whatever you decide.

 

[jc01]

I put a file on the bottom side of the pin and it seemed to file like it was unhardened. Not sure how else to tell?

 

[Outlawmws]

Is it easily dented? (look for evidence; I'm not asking you do dent yours, but I see do see these with mashed heads, so I'm thinking soft...)

 

[jc01]

No dents or deformity that I can see but it did leave a mark when I knocked it out originally. I would say soft as well.

 

[davevaughn]

Just bought mine a couple of weeks ago.
Paid $50 bucks for it. It did not have the swivel pin.Found one last week for
$25 bucks. It is in better shape than the one pictured. Very nice vise. What does the R stand for?

 

[DieselDent]

Thanks for the info guys I have a 406r that I need to restore

View media item 9251

 

[davevaughn]

What does the R stand for?

 

[Hornman]

Now that this thread has been resurrected, I can provide a tip for those that need to replace their swivel pin in the future: buy some Cerrosafe casting alloy and pour it into the pin recess (plugging the bottom first). The Cerrosafe will give you an exact replica of the pin recess to design the new pin from.

 

[G_P]

Now that this thread has been resurrected, I can provide a tip for those that need to replace their swivel pin in the future: buy some Cerrosafe casting alloy and pour it into the pin recess (plugging the bottom first). The Cerrosafe will give you an exact replica of the pin recess to design the new pin from.

Now that is a good idea!

 

[Outlawmws]

Now that this thread has been resurrected, I can provide a tip for those that need to replace their swivel pin in the future: buy some Cerrosafe casting alloy and pour it into the pin recess (plugging the bottom first). The Cerrosafe will give you an exact replica of the pin recess to design the new pin from.

Now that is a good idea!

Just make sure you have the jaw lined up. Cast it with a slight step and you will have locked it up. KM (Dr) Scott has drawings of most of the tapered pins, so I'd ask him on the Vises thread. (Not sure he's seen this old thing)

 

[taumac]

What does the R stand for?

IIRC the R stood for revised. Sort of like a updated model.
You can tell a 204 vs a 204R by the flat nose the handle runs through. A 204R is flat and a 204 is more think a ball.

 

[davevaughn]

Now I can answer my own question. The R means it has 4 mounting holes instead of the usual 3. Any R model has 4 mounting holes.

 

[davevaughn]

Not entirely correct.
I have a 406R with a long nose.
The 4 hole answer is more correct.

 

[DFB]

Timely thread I was going make a separate post but maybe I can ask my question here.

So I picked up a Reed 403 late this summer. I just finally had some time to look it over and started to clean it. So I went disassemble the swivel base it is going to need to be repaired or replaced as it has a crack anyhow it turns out here not as simple I as I though it would be. Can anyone tell me something about the nut. I had thought a couple of taps with my Milwaukee 2763 would spin it right off but I stopped when I could see the corners of starting to round. A 1 5/8 in socket I had seems too loose and 1 1/2 of course is too small so before I buy one can anyone say it is 1 9/16 then? And what about thread RH or LH. Soaking in Kroil now

 

[DFB]

Okay I'll answer my own questions seeing I got it off easily after letting some Kroil do it's work for two hours and even using the slightly loose fitting 1 5/8 6 point socket. Righty tighty...lefty loosey!

Really should have a 1 9/16. Cleaned up the hex ever so slightly with a file after it was off so I guess I'll invest in that slightly odd size socket to add my tool collection.

 

[angle grind]

DFB, or anyone, do you know what type / size of thread is on that big bolt (the 1 9/16)? I have one of these and it's missing the bolt, no idea where to start. Inspired by all the restorations I see you guys doing, and hoping this one's not going to be too big of a challenge.

 

[DFB]

DFB, or anyone, do you know what type / size of thread is on that big bolt (the 1 9/16)? I have one of these and it's missing the bolt, no idea where to start. Inspired by all the restorations I see you guys doing, and hoping this one's not going to be too big of a challenge.

3/4 X16 is the thread pitch

There is only about 1/2 inch of thread showing above the shoulder of the bolt that fits up into the base. That shoulder is approx 1- 1/4 outside diameter and 9/16 high

Bolt head is like 3/8 thick.


If you weren't machining a part I'm sure you could configure something up using a bolt, washer and sleeve assembly.

Here is what the original looks like...I just dissembled my vise for this

 

[angle grind]

Thank you!!!

When I measured on my vise, it looked like about 11/16" diameter but less than 3/4" that I could see, but when you figure in the threads, 3/4" sounds right.

Going to try this with a 3/4"x1" NF bolt first, as soon as I can get the bolt. Stores didn't have it, so I'm gonna order one.

 

[Tonellin]

Do you have a Ace true value near you? Mine has an excellent selection of bolts - in fact I just went there this afternoon to get the main bolt for an Athol vise that needed a M18

 

[angle grind]

That is a good idea, didn't even think to call Ace. There is one that's kind of far away, but not that far.

This might sound like a dumb question, but how do you figure out which vise has metric threads and which has SAE? Were manufacturers consistent?

And are some of the metric standards identical to SAE?

Sorry if this is already answered elsewhere, but it seemed relevant.

 

[Tonellin]

That is a good idea, didn't even think to call Ace. There is one that's kind of far away, but not that far.

This might sound like a dumb question, but how do you figure out which vise has metric threads and which has SAE? Were manufacturers consistent?

And are some of the metric standards identical to SAE?

Sorry if this is already answered elsewhere, but it seemed relevant.

Screw each in and see what fits haha

I would have figured my old Athol vise would have used a 3/4 bolt similar to what you're looking at for your Reed. It was my first guess and when that didn't work I tried a M18x2.50 and it threaded perfectly.

 

[Uncle Rudy]

Thanks for the information about the Reed 403 1/2R Vise. I recently found one on Craig's List and it too was missing the pin. Using your dimensions and my old Logan Lathe along with an old bolt, I now have a new replacement pin and it works great.
The pin had probably been lost for a while but the rear pivoting jaw was stuck in place. A liberal application of AeroKroil freed up the stuck jaw. Now everything works as it should.
Thanks again.

 

[AR1911]

Zombie thread resurrect!

I bought a nice Kennedy base box for $50. It came with a top plate of 1//2" aluminum, and a Reed 403-1/2 vise. The vise was a nice surprise. It was also missing the pin. The posts above in this thread were all I needed to make one on my - also Logan - Lathe. It was fairly simple and turned out nice.
Mine has replaceable jaws. I don't see that on any of the online photos. Is this a modification? If so, it's very well done.
Much appreciate the information!

 

[Outlawmws]

Mine has replaceable jaws. I don't see that on any of the online photos.

Reed made them both ways. My 403-1/2's jaws are replaceable, both of these are flat nose, not round meatball main screw heads, so age may be the difference.