Shed doors, better than quick and dirty?

[cadunkle]

I have a 16'x16' two story gambrel roof shed with rotting doors. T1-11 style siding is fine, trim and doors could use a refresh.

Door rough opening is 60-1/4" wide x 69-3/14" tall. Home made doors currently from the last guy made from siding and 2x4. They leak in heavy rain a bit, less than ideal and obviously rotted so this summer I want to replace. I can easily make the same to replace, but is there a better option? I store motorcycles in this shed so would like better than a $3 "locking" twisty door handle and prefereably a better weather seal. Flashing is not done proper but that obvious how to fix when I'm into it.

Thoughts for a better door? Usually only opening one half, but need full width for bikes and larger stuff. I have a sand blaster, compressor, and other things in the shed.

 

[tncatadjuster]

Just copy the original be done and go for a ride.

 

[OccupantRJ]

Make a small canopy or flashing to shed water out and away from the top crack and they will last much longer. Provide proper door stops around the perimeter, and stick-on closed cell weatherstrip rubber can be used. Some weatherstrip is open cell like a sponge.

 

[mike93lx]

Reframe for a 72x80 French door? $600ish for a basic masonite at HD

 

[PCustoms]

Reframe for a 72x80 French door? $600ish for a basic masonite at HD

I kept an eye out and scored a pair of doors for like $100 a couple years ago. No frame, but that was simple enough.

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

Trace a line 3/4" above your current top trim board and down the sides. When you replace the door cut at that line and put in drip cap so it's 3/4" below the cut. You don't want the bottom edge of the siding to touch the drip cap and soak up water. Bend the ends of the drip cap up at 90° to stop water from running over the side edge. Put back the piece of siding minus 3/4" so the the new trim board is flush with the rest.

 

[JuncleJohn]

Roll up door? That’s what I’m thinking about installing on my 34 year old shed.

Btw: I’m surprised there’s no header above the door opening.

John

 

[mike93lx]

Btw: I’m surprised there’s no header above the door opening.

A Gable end wall is typically not supporting any weight

 

[JuncleJohn]

I always install a header above all doors and windows.

John

 

[mike93lx]

I always install a header above all doors and windows.

John

Same here

 

[Lassen Forge]

What I would do, which is a Buy once, Cry once - get 2 pieces of aluminum plate (3/16 or 1/4) the same size as the existing doors. - you can then face them in wood or do whatever, so no one would be the wiser, but they won't rot out ever again. Plus - Put sliding pin hasps top and bottom into the concrete below and the frame above, and some scumball tweaker will have to go through the wall rather than through the door to get to your stuff, and even then he won't be going through the door to get his loot out. (You could even put windows in it for light and/or ventillation)

I did something similar to this for my mini-shop upstairs (which had literal **** security) and now it locks down tight. Mine is wood (we don't have dedicated tweakers here) but yeah, I sleep well at night....

 

[Codyboy]

Roll up door? That’s what I’m thinking about installing on my 34 year old shed.

Btw: I’m surprised there’s no header above the door opening.

John

Rollup door is a good idea.

As far as a header , a lot of times the header is pushed up to the top under the top plate then firred down to rough frame a door or window.
A header is only to support the roof/ceiling is the purpose.

There very well could be one out of frame you can't see in the pic. But for a shed, meh.

 

[paredown]

Rollup door is a good idea.

As far as a header , a lot of times the header is pushed up to the top under the top plate then firred down to rough frame a door or window.
A header is only to support the roof/ceiling is the purpose.

There very well could be one out of frame you can't see in the pic. But for a shed, meh.

The hot deal on small roll-ups can be found at Menards. I would find it every time I searched. Best price especially on sale, but we don't have one anywhere within striking distance.

Plus one on picking up a used set of french doors or whatever. People seem to be incapable of understanding that quality doors are a system and insist on ripping them out without saving their frames. Then they languish on Marketplace until the people realize they are unsaleable for what they are asking...

I got a pair of Andersen full lite French doors sans frame for a song--$100 or so with handle/lockset and keys. Had to buy a decent piece of threshold, and some cheap jamb material from Home Despot and framed them up. Not really finished enough for living space (proprietary jamb profile on the originals that I didn't try to match), but good enough for a workshop! Plus they let in natural light and both sides open if needed.

 

[Renegade1LI]

I like to use off the shelf steel exterior doors. Get 2 30" doors, build frame, hang them and make one the dead man. Doors are weather stripped add aluminum saddle and use standard lock set. I would also add an aluminum drip cap above them.

 

[Renegade1LI]

Here's a shed in getting ready to move and refurbish, probably 30 years old, no maintenance. I didn't even paint the door and it's still good, will get cleaned up and painted now, maybe even new weather stripping, lol.

 

[nutjob]

Here is what I bought for my shed.
https://www.lancasterpolypatios.com/shed-doors.html

Very heavy and in a size not easy to find. But it is a basic shed door that you use flat hinges and the T handle latch and you build the frame.

Kevin

 

[Slednut]

C channel framed doors.