OSB for interior walls - prime/paint before hanging? etc

[liljestrom]

I have a garage with romex and outlet boxes that is 32x36 and will put OSB on the walls. I'll have to cut out for the boxes and a couple of windows. Previously I have done this and primed and painted after it was up.

I'm thinking hang it all then prime/paint.

Does if make any sense to prime/paint the sheets then cut out OR prehang/take down and prime/paint?

 

[545_days]

It's easy enough to roll paint onto walls. What do you gain by painting before hanging it other than the fastener heads being unpainted?

I would think that managing multiple sheets while painting one side would be a nuisance as well as an opportunity for the OSB to warp and make hanging it more difficult as well.

 

[mike93lx]

Paint in place. It's one thing to prepaint detail stuff like trim, but I wouldn't do wall cladding like that.

Renting a sprayer would cut the time massively, just cover absolutely everything else in plastic.

 

[larry4406]

We used to have one of these style paint rollers where the handle is a giant syringe full of paint.

Worked great.

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[mike93lx]

We used to have one of these style paint rollers where the handle is a giant syringe full of paint.

Worked great.

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I have a roller attachment for my sprayer... Curious how well it works but I don't really want to find out

 

[The Cobbler]

rolling/spraying it after it's up will be easier than any other approach

 

[drmarkr]

Not really what you asked....but I'm going to give you my thoughts anyway.

Strongly consider spending the extra money and getting tongue/groove plywood, instead of OSB. Yea, it's 10-15 more per sheet, but it looks SO much better after you install and paint it. And for damn sure is more solid for heavy cabinet/other things mounted on the walls.

I even used caulk to fill the joints on my vertically installed sheets, which makes the walls look almost seamless.

 

[nadogail]

When practical I find it easier to lay the 4X8 sheets of OSB I am using on sawhorses and then roll the primer and paint on them rather than paint over my head. Painting on the flat is much easier than painting over my head.

The pre painted sheets look good from the bottom up, keeps the paint off the ceiling joists.

 

[Worsedog]

I also used osb for the ceiling and walls and painted before hanging. Overhead painting ***** and it was less time consuming to throw down plastic or newspaper on the driveway than mask and worry about slopping on the garage floor or in the electrical boxes.

 

[NUTTSGT]

I would prime and paint after hung. . . . I would also follow @drmarkr suggestion of plywood rather than OSB. While I would use regular plywood over the T&G stuff, but that is cosmetic.

 

[loganb]

When I did it in a garage several iterations ago it took 3 or 4 coats to get good coverage and the osb pattern still showed thru...just an fyi.

 

[NUTTSGT]

When I did it in a garage several iterations ago it took 3 or 4 coats to get good coverage and the osb pattern still showed thru...just an fyi.

It's going to **** up whatever you're putting on it. I've had good luck with a couple coats of Kilz oil-based primer and then painting it.

 

[mike93lx]

When I did it in a garage several iterations ago it took 3 or 4 coats to get good coverage and the osb pattern still showed thru...just an fyi.

I can't imagine any reasonable amount of paint hiding that. But drywall mud as a skim coat would

 

[u2slow]

Strongly consider spending the extra money and getting tongue/groove plywood, instead of OSB. Yea, it's 10-15 more per sheet, but it looks SO much better after you install and paint it. And for damn sure is more solid for heavy cabinet/other things mounted on the walls.

+1 on plywood.

1/2" was enough for me. T&G started at 5/8". Painted it after it was up.

 

[loganb]

I can't imagine any reasonable amount of paint hiding that. But drywall mud as a skim coat would

Kinda wonder what some of the higher quality OSB would be like..some of the Huber flooring products but at that point it'll be cheaper to just go to a BC grade plywood

 

[mike93lx]

Kinda wonder what some of the higher quality OSB would be like..some of the Huber flooring products but at that point it'll be cheaper to just go to a BC grade plywood

Advantech is pretty smooth, but I agree, I would also go for plywood instead

I've painted Zip, which is much better than commodity, but it's still really rough.

 

[OccupantRJ]

I would prime and paint after hung. . . . I would also follow @drmarkr suggestion of plywood rather than OSB. While I would use regular plywood over the T&G stuff, but that is cosmetic.

I have 1/2” BC plywood for walls and you don’t easily notice the seams, especially for a wall in a working shop.

 

[OccupantRJ]

Some OSB used for roof deck has a smoother side and a textured side. The nailing lines are normally on the textured side because that side goes up and the texture helps prevent slipping on the roof during installation. I used the textured side down on my shop ceiling, aligned the joints and bevelled the edges of the sheets to give the appearance of giant textured ceiling tiles.

Need Advice On Installing OSB To Garage Trusses

Attached are three pictures of the trusses inside my 1970's garage. I'm currently working on wiring it and soon will be installing a ceiling. Can anyone tell me whether or not these trusses will support 7/16 OSB? I need to determine my intended ceiling thickness before installing receptacle...

www.garagejournal.com

 

[Viz]

As suggested in some older threads, I used 2 coats of block fill (used for masonry) before painting my OSB. Yes, overall the texture will still show somewhat but in my case no where near as much and honestly, it looks pretty good.

 

[BlindViper]

Paint it in place, unless you use really great paint the sawdust and dirt is just gonna still to the paint.

 

[Hank11]

By the time you get two coats of primer, and two finish coats, it still won’t be smooth and joints still show — you could’ve put up drywall. And saved yourself money and time. And it would look nice.

 

[u2slow]

By the time you get two coats of primer, and two finish coats, it still won’t be smooth and joints still show — you could’ve put up drywall. And saved yourself money and time. And it would look nice.

Drywall defeats the whole purpose of mounting anything anywhere, and having a durable wall surface in a shop (where things gets banged around).

"Looks nice" can take a hike.

 

[OldCarGuy]

By the time you get two coats of primer, and two finish coats, it still won’t be smooth and joints still show — you could’ve put up drywall. And saved yourself money and time. And it would look nice.

I'm with you on this one! Drywall is the absolute standard for a reason, offering the best balance of fire resistance, affordability, and smooth finishing. Yes, you absolutely should emphasize the fire safety of drywall, as it is one of the most effective and common passive fire-resistance materials used in modern construction.. Building my 1,500' attached shop with X rated drywall not only saved my other attached shops, my home, and possibly my life too.

Aftermath of fire in my attached shop.. What the chance of a fire? Doesn't matter when it happens at home..




Hanging and finishing drywall is actually no big deal. I was 75 years old when I hung and finished nearly 10,000 pounds of 5/8” fire rated 4' by 12' sheets of drywall. As far as hanging things from drywall. I use plastic self drilling anchors. A single anchor is rated at 100 pounds in 1/2” drywall. Maybe 40% more in 5/8”. Plus what's the big deal finding a stud and or a joist? Then using lags screws...

Picture on my home workshop today after my rebuild...