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Drywall Finish Costs - Mud and Tape

bagsanthony

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Joined
Sep 2, 2010
Messages
367
Guys, if there is one task I don't like doing myself it's finishing drywall. Currently, I'm weighing my options. My current auto repair space is drywalled however no wall insulation is in place. I was leaning towards going to dense pack cellulose insulation (based on recommendations on this forum) to eliminate tearing down the existing and having to reinstall once traditionally insulated.

There then comes the cost of drywall finishing. With the cost of having any work done these days being astronomical, what are you guys' thinking are ballpark figures for finishing approx 1000 sqft of drywall? The wall spaces are 13 feet high. I guess this overall will determine if it's worth my time to rip it down or just blow in and patch a bunch of holes. Thanks!
 
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Adaylate

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Joined
Apr 19, 2021
Messages
635
Location
Washington
My location in SW Washington with 8-18' ceilings and average 12' walls.
175 sheets of Sheetrock bought, 4X12' sheets, hung, taped, textured, pva primer and ready to paint.
Bid came to right at $100. per sheet.
About one fifth of the material was fire rock.

This bid was for a combination shop/ living quarters.

Good luck with your project
 

finn

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Joined
Mar 27, 2005
Messages
16,309
Location
The UP, God's country
Shortage of skilled drywallers, cement guys, and roofers now, for obvious reasons.

Labor prices for trades like that are skyrocketing, if you can find someone to do it.

I wouldn’t think what someone paid a year ago would be relevant anymore.
 
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dcg9381

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Jun 20, 2018
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11,809
Location
Austin, TX
Shortage of skilled drywallers, cement guys, and roofers now, for obvious reasons.
I was gonna question the "obvious reasons" but I get it. You're in the UP, labor rates up there for this stuff is off the charts. It's crazy how much skilled labor goes for.

Drywall has "levels" of finishing that can swing the job 500% or more. I'd be stopping by any new construction that I see where drywall is going in. Or just do what I did and throw up OSB. Works well enough, easily taken down... but it's not a fire-stop.
 

finn

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Joined
Mar 27, 2005
Messages
16,309
Location
The UP, God's country
I was gonna question the "obvious reasons" but I get it. You're in the UP, labor rates up there for this stuff is off the charts. It's crazy how much skilled labor goes for.

Drywall has "levels" of finishing that can swing the job 500% or more. I'd be stopping by any new construction that I see where drywall is going in. Or just do what I did and throw up OSB. Works well enough, easily taken down... but it's not a fire-stop.
I’m talking about labor availability in the city, since the labor pool is being rounded up., but yes, rates are high here too.

All the young guys here want to be a GC and retire by the time they’re forty. They can charge what they want, to some extent since the baby boom contractors have aged out.

Hole in the wall mechanics are charging $150/hr with no overhead, operating out of a pole barn with no overhead.

I paid $4000 for an 8’x14’ four inch thick slab last year, and I did all the site work with my skid steer. He made the forms called the batch plant, and finished it. The guy had a pockup truck, but borrowed the finishing tools from his employer and do my job on a Saturday.


Not loo long ago I paid $5k for a 16’x20’ slab done by a crew of five or six.
 

Hank11

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Joined
Aug 19, 2019
Messages
1,155
Location
Tennessee
Might think about cutting the top 2 feet out, unscrewing the cut out, blowing in to fill then filling the 2 foot cut out with batts and screw the 2 feet of drywall back up. Probably get the best job that way. If your hatred of finishing overcomes you, at least you will be more comfortable inside your unfinished but drywalled shop.

You might ask around at places that sell drywall for names. Might find a couple guys who want to work on Saturday for some spending money. Even just 2 coats would make it pretty OK for a shop.
 
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bagsanthony

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 2, 2010
Messages
367
Might think about cutting the top 2 feet out, unscrewing the cut out, blowing in to fill then filling the 2 foot cut out with batts and screw the 2 feet of drywall back up. Probably get the best job that way. If your hatred of finishing overcomes you, at least you will be more comfortable inside your unfinished but drywalled shop.

You might ask around at places that sell drywall for names. Might find a couple guys who want to work on Saturday for some spending money. Even just 2 coats would make it pretty OK for a shop.
Thanks, interesting suggestion. I'm just wondering if I would be paying somebody to dense pack (it's my understanding the rental machines are only capable of loose fill) why I would even bother opening and cutting the wall myself.... I would let the installer do that to get the cellulose installed.
 

Firebrick43

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Joined
May 12, 2015
Messages
14,137
Location
West central Indiana
You can not dense pack with drywall in place. There is netting that lets the air dump at the site of where cellulose is packing. Trying to fill a closed cavity has air blow back and creates cavities, that still may settle but no where near the density of dense pack. The following is the only way dense pack happens.

1783391109574.png

I have done two and its hard enough to make sure all cavities are filled when you can see them.

Any one telling you that you can dense pack thru a small hole doesn't understand the term. Any one trying to sell you a dense pack job thru a hole is lying.
 

dcg9381

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Joined
Jun 20, 2018
Messages
11,809
Location
Austin, TX
I’m talking about labor availability in the city, since the labor pool is being rounded up., but yes, rates are high here too.
Yea, I can't touch that, it's one of those "not on this forum" things.
All the young guys here want to be a GC and retire by the time they’re forty. They can charge what they want, to some extent since the baby boom contractors have aged out.
I don't know the north, but the key is to get the guys doing the work, not the GC that's wrapping the work.
Hole in the wall mechanics are charging $150/hr with no overhead, operating out of a pole barn with no overhead.
I'll pay $150/hr for a mechanic that charges me actual time (not book time), is good (meaning he's faster than book), and isn't behind a service manager. But I get it.
I paid $4000 for an 8’x14’ four inch thick slab last year, and I did all the site work with my skid steer. He made the forms called the batch plant, and finished it. The guy had a pockup truck, but borrowed the finishing tools from his employer and do my job on a Saturday.
I think I'm paying like 1/2 that for 10x10 pads down south. I have a brother pouring big concrete slabs and hiring the actual "labor crews" that work for GCs, paying them a little more to do the work on weekends, he's at 50% of what I pay. It was $15k here 6 years ago for 2400 sqft of "easy job".... I hate concrete...
 
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