Adding a rudder to my kayak

[niget2002]

I hate to say this, but I'm adding a rudder to my kayak. I'm sure it's not the kayak's fault and it's me, but I'm still having issues with it turning into the wind when there's a decent breeze (which is most days where I live). I also think that this being my first kayak, that the bottom of the boat is slightly banana shaped.

Ideally, I would have installed a kick-up skeg when I built the kayak, but I didn't. I don't want to cut the top of the kayak and install a hatch in order to add a skeg after the fact, so the rudder is the next option.

I don't plan on adding foot controls on the first iteration of this. I picked up some 3" bell cranks for RC cars and plan on fixing the rudder. The bell cranks will allow me to adjust the angle so the boat floats straight. I will be running a line to the cockpit so I can pop the rudder up when not needed.

I initially picked up a rudder mount off of Chesapeake light craft, but it's not going to work. The top mount isn't long enough, but it gives me ideas.

The next step is I'll machine my own. I ordered a steel tube that should come in today. The plan is to possibly try my hand at electroplating and doing a nickel-copper plating on the final part. If this all works out, I'm going to disassemble the plastic rudder and cut a solid one out of Mahogany. The plastic rudder will get me through the end of this season, though.

This winter the boat will be going under the knife for other reasons. The foam bulkheads I installed aren't doing a good job. I'm going to replace them with fiberglassed in panels, but that will be a different thread. I may look at adding the linkages to make the rudder steerable then.

 

[niget2002]

Raw parts acquired...

I already had the flat stock. I'll cut this in half and clean up on the mill.

 

[PCustoms]

Raw parts acquired...

I already had the flat stock. I'll cut this in half and clean up on the mill.

Edited, I see that's the mount now

 

[niget2002]

Delete

 

[niget2002]

Edited, I see that's the mount now

Heh. I saw your initial message...

Yeah. This is for the mount. The flat stock is a little heavy for what I need. I have enough round stock now I can make a second lighter one if this works.

 

[PCustoms]

Heh. I saw your initial message...

Yeah. This is for the mount. The flat stock is a little heavy for what I need. I have enough round stock now I can make a second lighter one if this works.

Yeah, not sure how I kissed the original picture. When I scrolled back up after posting it hit me...

Be curious how this turns out. 99% of the time I never need one but that 1% when I'm across the lKe and the wind picks up in might be nice

 

[BurtEggley]

can you sit any farther foward in the seat when you want to turn into the wind? A canoe or kayak is like a weather vane. The wind will push it based on where the pivot is. Downwind the paddler wants to be farther back, and upwind the person wants to be farther forward. Depends on the kayak if the person can move. Called weathercocking. The part of the hull that has the most air resistance will swing with the wind.

I did a quick Google for kayak solutions to weathercocking.

Kayak Weathercocking - Superior Paddling

Handling Beam Winds in a Sea Kayak "It is the set of our sails, not the direction of the wind,that determines which way we will go."Jim Rohn So, you've learned and practiced all the basic strokes: the forward, the sweep, the stern rudder, the draws and the braces. But any paddler who's been out in

superiorpaddling.com

 

[LopezBart]

We have one on the ancient Klepper kayak my dad bought circa 1966... it helps as you mention in cross winds. The Kleppers are directionally quite stable w/ long keels, and the rudder definitely makes turning easier and less of an impact on one's paddling rythem.
If you're boating in salt water, I'd use aluminum (either 6062 or a 5000 series). The Klepper rudder is 2.5 or 3 mm aluminum from memory.
This is an image of the current Klepper rudder; it's changed a bit in the last 50(!) years, but is mostly the same:

 

[niget2002]

can you sit any farther foward in the seat when you want to turn into the wind? A canoe or kayak is like a weather vane. The wind will push it based on where the pivot is. Downwind the paddler wants to be farther back, and upwind the person wants to be farther forward. Depends on the kayak if the person can move. Called weathercocking. The part of the hull that has the most air resistance will swing with the wind.

I did a quick Google for kayak solutions to weathercocking.

Kayak Weathercocking - Superior Paddling

Handling Beam Winds in a Sea Kayak "It is the set of our sails, not the direction of the wind,that determines which way we will go."Jim Rohn So, you've learned and practiced all the basic strokes: the forward, the sweep, the stern rudder, the draws and the braces. But any paddler who's been out in

superiorpaddling.com

Not when there's two of us in the boat.

We have one on the ancient Klepper kayak my dad bought circa 1966... it helps as you mention in cross winds. The Kleppers are directionally quite stable w/ long keels, and the rudder definitely makes turning easier and less of an impact on one's paddling rythem.
If you're boating in salt water, I'd use aluminum (either 6062 or a 5000 series). The Klepper rudder is 2.5 or 3 mm aluminum from memory.
This is an image of the current Klepper rudder; it's changed a bit in the last 50(!) years, but is mostly the same:

I'm all lakes in Texas. I doubt I'll ever see salt.

 

[Firebrick43]

I hate to say this, but I'm adding a rudder to my kayak. I'm sure it's not the kayak's fault and it's me, but I'm still having issues with it turning into the wind when there's a decent breeze (which is most days where I live). I also think that this being my first kayak, that the bottom of the boat is slightly banana shaped.

Ideally, I would have installed a kick-up skeg when I built the kayak, but I didn't. I don't want to cut the top of the kayak and install a hatch in order to add a skeg after the fact, so the rudder is the next option.

I don't plan on adding foot controls on the first iteration of this. I picked up some 3" bell cranks for RC cars and plan on fixing the rudder. The bell cranks will allow me to adjust the angle so the boat floats straight. I will be running a line to the cockpit so I can pop the rudder up when not needed.

I initially picked up a rudder mount off of Chesapeake light craft, but it's not going to work. The top mount isn't long enough, but it gives me ideas.

The next step is I'll machine my own. I ordered a steel tube that should come in today. The plan is to possibly try my hand at electroplating and doing a nickel-copper plating on the final part. If this all works out, I'm going to disassemble the plastic rudder and cut a solid one out of Mahogany. The plastic rudder will get me through the end of this season, though.

This winter the boat will be going under the knife for other reasons. The foam bulkheads I installed aren't doing a good job. I'm going to replace them with fiberglassed in panels, but that will be a different thread. I may look at adding the linkages to make the rudder steerable then.

How long is the kayak? Short kayaks (under 14') with any rocker what so ever usually don't track straight on the lakes. But the flip side is long straight keeled boats don't turn on rivers well either.

 

[dcg9381]

That boat is WAY to pretty to drill holes in!

 

[niget2002]

How long is the kayak? Short kayaks (under 14') with any rocker what so ever usually don't track straight on the lakes. But the flip side is long straight keeled boats don't turn on rivers well either.

17.5', but it doesn't have a very defined keel except on the ends.

That boat is WAY to pretty to drill holes in!

Yeah, but if this doesn't work, I only have to fill a few small screw holes. Trying to retrofit a skeg would require much more cutting.

 

[niget2002]

Here's the build thread for those that haven't seen my boat before.

Thread 'Cedar Stripped Kayak build' https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/threads/cedar-stripped-kayak-build.528831/

 

[dcg9381]

Here's the build thread for those that haven't seen my boat before.

I have not, but I grew up with one... I won't touch it. I know the hours that went into it. I know to buy them, not build them.

They are art.

 

[niget2002]

Got something mocked up before I had to start cooking dinner.

 

[Dumber than lumber]

I hate to say this, but I'm adding a rudder to my kayak. I'm sure it's not the kayak's fault and it's me, but I'm still having issues with it turning into the wind when there's a decent breeze (which is most days where I live). I also think that this being my first kayak, that the bottom of the boat is slightly banana shaped.

Ideally, I would have installed a kick-up skeg when I built the kayak, but I didn't. I don't want to cut the top of the kayak and install a hatch in order to add a skeg after the fact, so the rudder is the next option.

I don't plan on adding foot controls on the first iteration of this. I picked up some 3" bell cranks for RC cars and plan on fixing the rudder. The bell cranks will allow me to adjust the angle so the boat floats straight. I will be running a line to the cockpit so I can pop the rudder up when not needed.

I initially picked up a rudder mount off of Chesapeake light craft, but it's not going to work. The top mount isn't long enough, but it gives me ideas.

The next step is I'll machine my own. I ordered a steel tube that should come in today. The plan is to possibly try my hand at electroplating and doing a nickel-copper plating on the final part. If this all works out, I'm going to disassemble the plastic rudder and cut a solid one out of Mahogany. The plastic rudder will get me through the end of this season, though.

This winter the boat will be going under the knife for other reasons. The foam bulkheads I installed aren't doing a good job. I'm going to replace them with fiberglassed in panels, but that will be a different thread. I may look at adding the linkages to make the rudder steerable then.

Hmmm….
How about a trolling motor?

 

[niget2002]

Hmmm….
How about a trolling motor?

Then I'd have to register it and pay annual fees to use it.

 

[mrb1]

I guess you'd call it a rudder? Added one to my trolling motor for use on my jon, and 8ft two man bass hunter boat. Really helps with vibration and keeping a straight track. They sell a kit but heck, used a cheap Amazon cutting board and a couple hose clamps for $10

​

 

[Dumber than lumber]

Then I'd have to register it and pay annual fees to use it.

Okay. Then maybe a chain drive arrangement connected to pedals?
After all, that would be easy compared to the work you have already done.
Would a man-powered prop-drive incur those dreaded fees?

 

[niget2002]

Okay. Then maybe a chain drive arrangement connected to pedals?
After all, that would be easy compared to the work you have already done.
Would a man-powered prop-drive incur those dreaded fees?

Why are you wanting to add a prop drive to a kayak? I'm not having issues propelling the kayak, just keeping it straight in high winds.

 

[nadogail]

I have a neighbor who fishes from a kayak.
His plastic rudder is controlled by foot pedals.

 

[niget2002]

I have a neighbor who fishes from a kayak.
His plastic rudder is controlled by foot pedals.

I may add foot controls in the future. I want to see how it does with just being fixed for now.

Got the bracket welded up. I have a good grinder

Plus I haven't welded anything in at least 9 months.



I was a little worried the heat from tacking would cause issues, but it didn't.


The materials I need for the electroplating don't come in until Friday.

 

[dcg9381]

How about a trolling motor?

No, steam engine!

 

[niget2002]

No, steam engine!

This I could almost go for but it'd have to be tug boat shaped. Oh. Or a bang and pop engine.

(had to edit because apparently one glass of wine really jacked up my typing today)