Make of Craftsman dial caliper

[Sumboodie]

Maybe not "vintage"? It's 90s, early 2000s.

A set screw fell out causing it to jump the rack a bit. Right now the jaws don't stay perpendicular either.

Trying to decide if it's worth sourcing a tiny screw and resetting the rack or buy new.

I have in mind they were fairly expensive when I bought them, granted I was making $13/hr. I may be misremembering too.

Don't want to spend time and $$ if they are cheapies. A miniature set screw set will run me ~$25.

They are inch and metric which is handy. Only info is the number on the back.

Took me a several mins to upload the pics, hopefully not too bad for you all to load them to see.

 

[Sumboodie]

Oh, the slide lock doesn't go there, I just tried it to see if it was the same thread as the set screws.

 

[JuncleJohn]

Not Mitutoyo, B&S or Starrett.

John

 

[drmarkr]

Use this page and the serial number to find the manufacturer.

Craftsman OEM List | VintageMachinery.org

 

[MAD]

It was probably supplied to Craftsman by S-T Industries / Scherr Tumico. They were the primary supplier of precision measuring tools to Craftsman in that time period.

Edit- It also looks like the similar Fowler caliper. Both could be true since Scherr Tumico didn't make dial calipers in-house.

 

[larry_g]

With that 'made in china' stamp on there I would not spend much time on getting them working. Might be the time to upgrade.

 

[JuncleJohn]

Those calipers actually look to be in real good shape. Get yourself a set screw and get them back in adjustment. They should be plenty good for most stuff in the garage.

Small metric set screws are readily available through McMaster-Carr.

John

 

[Farmer J.]

Looks very similar to the one from Lee Valley, which I have one of.

6" Combination Dial Caliper - Lee Valley Tools

Discover the 6" Combination Dial Caliper. Buy this product now on our Lee Valley online store.

www.leevalley.com

 

[Sumboodie]

Those calipers actually look to be in real good shape. Get yourself a set screw and get them back in adjustment. They should be plenty good for most stuff in the garage.

Small metric set screws are readily available through McMaster-Carr.

John

McMaster is crazy money though. A pack of set screws will end up being like $50 to my door. And I'm not sure if it's inch or metric. I can barely see the threads.

 

[Sumboodie]

Use this page and the serial number to find the manufacturer.

Craftsman OEM List | VintageMachinery.org

I have no idea what the serial number is. Only info on it is the number in the photo I showed and that doesn't come up with anything.

 

[Sumboodie]

With that 'made in china' stamp on there I would not spend much time on getting them working. Might be the time to upgrade.

Not finding too many replacements. Maybe I'm calling it the wrong thing?

Here's one from i Gagging, they are around $60 with shipping.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DHVYM8K?tag=atomicindus08-20

 

[JuncleJohn]

McMaster is crazy money though. A pack of set screws will end up being like $50 to my door. And I'm not sure if it's inch or metric. I can barely see the threads.

McMaster was just an example of letting you that there are sources out there.

Made in China will most likely determine that they’re metric threads. But, there’s no way to know for sure without measuring the OD of the remaining set screw and checking with a thread pitch gage.

John

 

[rlitman]

It was probably supplied to Craftsman by S-T Industries / Scherr Tumico. They were the primary supplier of precision measuring tools to Craftsman in that time period.

Edit- It also looks like the similar Fowler caliper. Both could be true since Scherr Tumico didn't make dial calipers in-house.

I've owned a number of ones with dials just like that that were marked Fowler Helios. While the metric/SAE dial was really nice, I've also had really bad luck with these. I find them way too finicky to bother with. IMNSHO, you'd be better off with the super cheap chinese digital ones than fixing this, if switching between units is what you're going for.

 

[Sumboodie]

I've owned a number of ones with dials just like that that were marked Fowler Helios. While the metric/SAE dial was really nice, I've also had really bad luck with these. I find them way too finicky to bother with. IMNSHO, you'd be better off with the super cheap chinese digital ones than fixing this, if switching between units is what you're going for.

I hate digital ones. They're always dead and have to constantly buy batteries or pull them out.

No idea why OFF isn't OFF!

I can do the math to make it metric, but I work with both.

 

[RoninB4]

I can do the math to make it metric, but I work with both.

-Not sure of the maker, I've seen several double needle types over the years. Many of them were from the era when metric was being pushed for the USA. I suppose they work but it seems that the extra component (likely a small gear) to track the red needle is something else that can foul the works. Even as it is now the red needle looks like it's off and you'll need the brass shim to jump the rack so both needles can point to the 12 o'clock position and be in sync. A single needle model can just rotate the bezel for "zero" position. If you've never taken a dial caliper apart it can be a bit fiddly to get it back together correctly.

-I don't really like the digital calipers either for similar reasons, analog can also show me things a digital can't. I also work with both inch and metric a lot of the time, it was a common occurrence when working on injection molds made in Canada. I either do the rough math in my head or use the calculator for more exacting work. The 25.4 conversion is the "memory" button on my calculator for easier conversion.

-Your caliper is a nice piece but I'd sooner look for an inexpensive replacement. Even though the rack is somewhat covered it really doesn't take much grit to foul up the works. I once gave away a new B&S dial caliper because I couldn't get all the grit out of the non-removeable rack for cleaning. The rack and/or gears in any dial caliper can also be easily deformed and never feel smooth again. A replacement caliper will depend upon just how precise/accurate your tasks require it to be. I have expensive dial calipers, vernier calipers (not good for aging eyes), and even a cheap ($10) plastic caliper from Horrible Freight for those grime/rust encrusted tasks. Keep the double needle model for when you do run across a metric set screw for the gibs. JMO.

 

[rlitman]

-Not sure of the maker, I've seen several double needle types over the years. Many of them were from the era when metric was being pushed for the USA. I suppose they work but it seems that the extra component (likely a small gear) to track the red needle is something else that can foul the works. Even as it is now the red needle looks like it's off and you'll need the brass shim to jump the rack so both needles can point to the 12 o'clock position and be in sync. A single needle model can just rotate the bezel for "zero" position. If you've never taken a dial caliper apart it can be a bit fiddly to get it back together correctly...

On a single needle dial caliper, the needle is on a pinion shaft that rides the rack. The pinion shaft sits LOOSELY in a pivot hole, and is held against the rack by light spring tension (to eliminate backlash). That system works well, though the loose fit allows the pinion to jump the rack if it runs over grit.

On these double needle calipers, the pinion shafts are coaxial (like the hands on an analog clock). They're completely independent. Two shafts (the outer one is tubular). Two pinions. Two racks (in a stepped configuration). The trouble is the two springs. The outer shaft is easy, but for the inner one to be held onto the rack, it's very fidgety. Basically, these calipers are touch-me-nots. Not really useful in a shop setting. I've gone down the rabbit hole of trying to fix these, and came to the conclusion that it's not worth the time.

I too can't stand digital, but I keep the digitals around for throw-away uses. The battery drain issues from 20 years ago are largely problems of the past.

My advice would be that for a dial caliper, get a good one in either SAE or metric, and stick with it. I recommend Etalon (they make for Brown and Sharpe, but their version is better). If you want a good digital, look at Tesa's Twin Cal lineup (no off button, but it also doesn't need one).

 

[Sumboodie]

On a single needle dial caliper, the needle is on a pinion shaft that rides the rack. The pinion shaft sits LOOSELY in a pivot hole, and is held against the rack by light spring tension (to eliminate backlash). That system works well, though the loose fit allows the pinion to jump the rack if it runs over grit.

On these double needle calipers, the pinion shafts are coaxial (like the hands on an analog clock). They're completely independent. Two shafts (the outer one is tubular). Two pinions. Two racks (in a stepped configuration). The trouble is the two springs. The outer shaft is easy, but for the inner one to be held onto the rack, it's very fidgety. Basically, these calipers are touch-me-nots. Not really useful in a shop setting. I've gone down the rabbit hole of trying to fix these, and came to the conclusion that it's not worth the time.

I too can't stand digital, but I keep the digitals around for throw-away uses. The battery drain issues from 20 years ago are largely problems of the past.

My advice would be that for a dial caliper, get a good one in either SAE or metric, and stick with it. I recommend Etalon (they make for Brown and Sharpe, but their version is better). If you want a good digital, look at Tesa's Twin Cal lineup (no off button, but it also doesn't need one).

I bought a digital one maybe 2 years ago. Went to use it few months ago and it's dead. Put batteries in it, and it's already dead again.

The watch batteries are a pain as it seems everything uses a different size. I swear I've got $200 of watch batteries in the junk drawer!

I didn't realize the 2 pointer units are that different. I've had this one going on 25 yr, used often.

 

[RoninB4]

On a single needle dial caliper, the needle is on a pinion shaft that rides the rack. The pinion shaft sits LOOSELY in a pivot hole, and is held against the rack by light spring tension (to eliminate backlash). That system works well, though the loose fit allows the pinion to jump the rack if it runs over grit.

-I've taken a few of my Mitutoyo dial calipers down to bare beam and prefer that brand because if even a klutz like me can repair them then about anybody else should be able to if careful

I've gone down the rabbit hole of trying to fix these, and came to the conclusion that it's not worth the time.

-I tried repairing a double needle model once for another co-worker and gave up in failure. I reached the same conclusion as you.

I too can't stand digital, but I keep the digitals around for throw-away uses. The battery drain issues from 20 years ago are largely problems of the past.

-A sizeable number of the CNC crowd swears by them, that's ok too I guess. I'd still use my verniers if my eyes were better. I've tried Starrett, B&S, NSK, Helios, Mauser, and a bunch of others but I like the Mitutoyo the best. Just a personal opinion.

I recommend Etalon (they make for Brown and Sharpe, but their version is better).

-I have a couple of Etalon mics and feel they're one of the best makes readily available

If you want a good digital, look at Tesa's Twin Cal lineup (no off button, but it also doesn't need one).

-Never used one, will accept your review as valid. Tesa (Swiss) used to make very good instruments, I've got several Intrimiks from them. Even if the battery issue has been long solved I just don't seem to get a warm-n-fuzzy with digital, not even a digital speedometer in a car.

 

[whateg01]

My favorite set of calipers is an inch/metric dual from harbor freight from probably 25 years ago. I've moved that set to my desk and bought others for the shop. I just tossed an anytime tools one because something got stuck in the teeth of the pinion gear. After cleaning it best I could buy only removing it from the bar, I decided to replace it. It's hard to find inch/metric and yeah, I can get my phone out to do the calculation, but it's just too handy to look at the dial and see a number. I have a few digitals scattered about but I keep going back to analog, so I guess that must be my preference. Also, it's a tool, not an heirloom. If it breaks I'll just buy another.

 

[Fav Onefour]

Socket head cap screw?
Might be worth trying to find one at a local hardware store. They often have some with knurled heads. Might need to smooth out the point so it's flat. It wouldn't cost much to try.

 

[whateg01]

Socket head cap screw?
Might be worth trying to find one at a local hardware store. They often have some with knurled heads. Might need to smooth out the point so it's flat. It wouldn't cost much to try.

If it's like others I've had apart, there's a gib that held in place by the point of one of the set screws.

 

[Fav Onefour]

If it's like others I've had apart, there's a gib that held in place by the point of one of the set screws.

Bummer.
It makes sense. I hadn't backed one out far enough to test. After you posted, I checked the screw travel with one of my super basic models. The screw hits a stop point and won't back out further.

That goes back to the original question. Honestly, I'd wonder if something else is shot. It might be time to go shopping for a new caliper.

 

[jd5000]

I hate digital ones. They're always dead and have to constantly buy batteries or pull them out.

No idea why OFF isn't OFF!

I can do the math to make it metric, but I work with both.

If hate digital, could always get a Vernier. Plus, has both imperial & metric

https://www.amazon.com/Vsvgmoq-Fractional-High-Hardness-Mechanical-Non-Digital/dp/B0FF1XMHW2?tag=atomicindus08-20

 

[rlitman]

If hate digital, could always get a Vernier. Plus, has both imperial & metric

https://www.amazon.com/Vsvgmoq-Fractional-High-Hardness-Mechanical-Non-Digital/dp/B0FF1XMHW2?tag=atomicindus08-20

Laser etched scale? LOL. I could eyeball about as well off a Stanley Fatmax tape. Save your money on that thing.

 

[jd5000]

Laser etched scale? LOL. I could eyeball about as well off a Stanley Fatmax tape. Save your money on that thing.

I don't own this specific vernier, and there are more expensive vernier calipers (Starrett, Mitoyoyo, etc). But, .02 mm precision should be more than enough compared to the OP's Chinese made Craftsman. And, any vernier is going to be more accurate that a Fatmax or any tape measure. Vernier do not require batteries, but there is a little skill to reading the scale accurately. Doesn't take much skill, but it is a little tougher than reading a dial or digital output.

 

[JuncleJohn]

Reading vernier calipers requires good eyesight. The good ones are as accurate as dial. In my collection of measuring instruments that I have accumulated over 50 years I have two Mitutoyo’s and one Starrett.

I also have a couple dials as well (Mitutoyo and B&S), but today I prefer digital.

A good set of digitals are far superior. Been using mostly digitals for over 25 years.

The good ones are quick to read, very accurate and have auto power off.

John

 

[jd5000]

Reading vernier calipers requires good eyesight. The good ones are as accurate as dial. In my collection of measuring instruments that I have accumulated over 50 years I have two Mitutoyo’s and one Starrett.

I also have a couple dials as well (Mitutoyo and B&S), but today I prefer digital.

A good set of digitals are far superior. Been using mostly digitals for over 25 years.

The good ones are quick to read, very accurate and have auto power off.

John

I have both digital and vernier. I resort to Vernier when batteries die on digital and I can't wait to get replacements. But, OP's requirement was no batteries, so vernier is an option for him.

 

[Sumboodie]

Reading vernier calipers requires good eyesight. The good ones are as accurate as dial. In my collection of measuring instruments that I have accumulated over 50 years I have two Mitutoyo’s and one Starrett.

I also have a couple dials as well (Mitutoyo and B&S), but today I prefer digital.

A good set of digitals are far superior. Been using mostly digitals for over 25 years.

The good ones are quick to read, very accurate and have auto power off.

John

I can do Vernier, but i much prefer dial. For me it's way faster.

It's not something im expecting to be blonde one presice. I have micrometers for that.

Anyhow fixed it today. Tiny sized metric set screws kit off Amazon for $6.99

 

[Sumboodie]

My favorite set of calipers is an inch/metric dual from harbor freight from probably 25 years ago. I've moved that set to my desk and bought others for the shop. I just tossed an anytime tools one because something got stuck in the teeth of the pinion gear. After cleaning it best I could buy only removing it from the bar, I decided to replace it. It's hard to find inch/metric and yeah, I can get my phone out to do the calculation, but it's just too handy to look at the dial and see a number. I have a few digitals scattered about but I keep going back to analog, so I guess that must be my preference. Also, it's a tool, not an heirloom. If it breaks I'll just buy another.

Nothing special per say about this one,but a guy gets attached to tools that have worked well for 20+ years.

I just noticed today my main 3/8" socket set is a Craftsman set I got from a 1/4" to 1/2" kit when I was a lube tech there in 2003.
For some reason it's a mix match of 6 and 12 pt