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Removing rusted metal door frame attached to masonry

branimal

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May 31, 2016
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I need to replace this rusted out door frame. I managed to remove the bottom of the frame a couple of weeks ago. I cut a small section 8" above the floor with an angle grinder, pryed it & banged it out with a bosch bulldog. It took forever.

I can't find any screw on the frame. And it seems the installer put concrete into the hollow areas of the door. I think that's what's adhering it.

Is there a better way to proceed?
 

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pcmeiners

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The frame is totally filled with cement or concrete.... 12 pound sledge hammer or better still hammer drill . As to attachment, the frames have bendable tabs which fold out but the real adhesive is the cement/concrete. Bull dog can do it but you really need something bigger.
 
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branimal

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The frame is totallky filled with cement or concrete.... 12 pound sledge hammer or better still hammer drill . As to attachment, the franes have bendable tabs which fold out but the real adhesive is the cement/concrete. Bull dog can do it but you really need something bigger.
12lb sledge - I don't want to break the brick wall.
 

Leaflessshadetree

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Don't ask.
I'd probably use a chisel and a 3lb sledge, break the concrete from the brick.
Power tool options. Rotary, jack or pneumatic hammer. Maybe a circular saw with a masonary blade.
 

carlaisle

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It's a brick wall. If a few bricks come loose, mix up some mortar and put them back.
 

readhead

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Durango, Co.
There are tabs attached to the jamb that are embedded into the mortar joints. Then the jamb is usually grouted solid. I’ve seen the masons cut the jambs into short pieces with a demo saw and removed carefully to not damage the wall.
 

Shiftless

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East Bay SFO
Are you remodeling a dungeon?

That little space in the back looks perfect for hanging a deer. Nice floor drain.

As others have already said, I would cut the jamb into sections and remove a piece at a time. Do you have a small demo hammer and not a hammer drill?
 

BillK

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Beautiful Southern Maryland
They make repair pieces so you can just patch in the bottom sections without replacing the entire frame. If you search on "commercial metal door frame replacement" you will find more than what you want to know.
 
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mm08822

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NJ
Probably the two right-most options. And yes, the hollows of the frames are usually loaded with mortar.
1786757122867.png

There's a very, very remote chance you might be able to see some spot weld marks indicating where the anchors are attached to the jamb proper.
 

PopcornSutton

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Northern Tip of VA
Most times they used either a flat metal tee shaped anchor where the short section locked into the frame and the long leg was laid in the coursing. Other times just a wire type tie. Usually placed at the three hinge areas up the jamb, both sides.
 

matthe

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Oregon
If it were mine, I’d avoid trying to pry the whole frame out at once. From your photos, it looks like the frame is mechanically attached to the masonry and there may also be mortar/grout around parts of it, so I’d remove it in sections.

Before cutting anything, I’d first make sure this isn’t a structural frame supporting anything above it. If it’s an old door/window opening and there’s any doubt, I’d confirm that before removing the jamb.

Assuming it’s just a non-structural frame, my approach would be:

  1. Expose the attachment points. Scrape or chip away loose mortar around the frame so you can see whether it’s held by masonry anchors, screws, tabs, or just packed into the opening.
  2. Remove any accessible fasteners first. If there are screws or anchors that can be removed without damaging the surrounding masonry, take those out before cutting.
  3. Cut the frame into manageable sections. Rather than fighting the entire frame, make a couple of relief cuts through the metal with an angle grinder or reciprocating saw with a metal-cutting blade. Smaller sections are much easier to control.
  4. Protect the masonry while cutting. I’d keep the cuts as close to the metal as practical and avoid using a sledgehammer directly against the brick/block. A cold chisel and small hammer are much more controllable for separating mortar or freeing an edge.
  5. Work around the perimeter. Once one section is loose, use it to see where the remaining attachment points are. That is usually safer than applying a lot of force and discovering that one hidden anchor is still holding everything.
  6. Deal with the remaining anchors separately. If an anchor is embedded in the masonry and won't come out cleanly, cutting it flush is often preferable to trying to pull it out and taking a chunk of brick or block with it. You can then patch the small recess afterward.
  7. Clean up before installing the replacement. Remove loose mortar, rust scale, and debris, then check that the opening is reasonably sound and square before fitting the new frame.
I'd also wear eye/face protection when cutting the old metal, because rusted frames can break unpredictably and grinding masonry/metal creates a lot of dust and debris.

The main thing I'd avoid is the “bigger hammer” approach. If the frame is stubborn, there's usually still an attachment point holding it somewhere. Finding that point and cutting/removing it is much less likely to damage the surrounding masonry.
 

matt_i

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SE Michigan
Looks like AI got to put in a response too 👍

Use angle grinder with thin cutoff wheel or traditional grinding disc to attack the outside corner of the formed metal section. In other words get rid of the angle iron and separate into flat strips that have much lower ability to "fight back". Next shift to air hammer with chisel point to separate flat from concrete. Where you find the embedded parts you will have to figure out how to cut those off but they are highly likely to be joined with a spot weld which can be gouged out with the grinding disk. You'll probably find the spots with a light grind of the surface in the local area of where its stuck or just rely on the visual hinge/bend point as you remove the flat stock.

Easy does it on any wood framing or combustible stuff if you get to shooting spark showers for hours at a time.
 
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branimal

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I slit the frame in half vertically (as someone here recommended) and was able to pry off the inside right side of the frame. The outside right side of the frame seems to be embedded in the mortar.

I did the same with the left side. But it's also embedded in mortar.

The first piece came out whole with prying action. I'll start cutting into smaller sections tomorrow and pry out. Chipping out sections of mortar seems to help release the frame.

I couldn't see any type of anchors in the mortar.
 

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branimal

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I've got one vertical leg stuck behind the mortar / concrete. I've been chipping away inch by inch with my bosch bulldog. I think it's time to rent a 12lb Makita demo hammer.

Right now the opening is 79" to the top of the metal frame. I think when the top frame & surrounding mortar comes out the bricks above it could come crashing down. The house is ballon framed, I don't think this is structural but I'm not 100% sure. I wouldn't mind the extra height b/c a 80" metal door needs an 82 1/2" opening. 82" min I think.

Any thoughts on how I should proceed?

Thanks.
 

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The Cobbler

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I'd be inclined to remove all the brick up to the floor. install your new door & frame, grout it in from the top , then fill over the door with whatever . in the end you'll not be fitzing & farting around near as much
 
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