To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

The VISES of Garage Journal

Shiftless

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 9, 2014
Messages
14,870
Location
East Bay SFO
Has to be a machine shop - "nothing over 100 lbs" :see:
You remembered!
Yes… I used to own some good examples of heavyweights like a Reed 406 and a Reed 4C. I sold those off to conform with my self imposed guideline that I invoked when I turned 70. Nothing over 100 pounds. One of my favorite sayings that I took to heart is from Dirty Harry Callahan.
“A man has got to know his limitations” 😎
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

Shiftless

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 9, 2014
Messages
14,870
Location
East Bay SFO
One VERY curious aspect of my particular #8 is that there is absolutely no trace of the swivel jaw locking pin highlighted in the picture below. (Thanks for posting the catalog page CRS)
Is there a chance mine is some kind of pre production model? Looking closely at that area from the outside or the inside shows no trace of a hole. This detail has mystified me ever since I first saw this vise 3 years ago.

Do any of you guys have a guess as to what is going on with this vise? Mine is missing this seemingly vital piece.


8FC50E7C-B867-4186-83BF-E8AD87C9731A.jpeg
 

2001ZR2

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 4, 2018
Messages
446
Location
Kansas City
4376.jpg
Facebook Market buy for all 3 for $100.

4377.jpg

4378.jpg
The American Scale #54 4 inch jaw 66 lb behemoth. Why I bit on these vises. Repainted red but thinking it should have been black or gray when new.

4379.jpg

A wounded 675U? Wilton that is missing the parts to retain the screw to the dynamic jaw. Still available so will clean it up and repair. Are these homeowner vises supposed to but red? Also not seeing any damage to jaw so not sure why there is weld on the slide. Will clean that up but this a light duty vise.

Cou

The 6" cross slide drill press vise which I don't think HF stills under the Central Forge name anymore. The gem of haul without a doubt...j/k.
Apparently with some tuning its a serviceable drill press vise.
 

Attachments

  • 4380.jpg
    4380.jpg
    866.2 KB · Views: 6

DCRUTT

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 28, 2012
Messages
49
Location
Rochester, NY
Of all the vises I might’ve expected to reel in this year, this wasn’t in my forecast. One of the rarest vises ever made - the seldom scene Lewis & Lurie 6lb, 3” bench vise.

This vise and its inventor are shrouded in mystery. It was patented on July 25th, 1893 by NY resident, Abraham Lurie. Later that year, several large publications including the Scientific American issued articles lauding the new vise and its features. By late 1895, The Iron Age proudly advertised the vise in their October issue and stated their manufacturer as “the Lewis & Lurie Mfg. Company” of 142 Duane St, NY. After 1895, history appears to be utterly and completely SILENT on Abraham and his vise for nearly 30 years. That is, until the February 14th, 1921 issue of the NY Evening Journal illuminates the mysterious inventor in an article celebrating his 50th wedding anniversary. According to the article, Abraham Lurie was born October 11, 1836 in Manchester England to Jewish parents. He married Bertha Blum on February 9, 1874 with whom he had ten children. Abraham worked as a steamboat captain, carpenter, and inventor of machinery. After retiring from “active business…as president of the Lurie Vise Company”, Lurie passed away at the age of 95 on December 5th, 1931.

No records have yet been found to prove who the “Lewis” of “Lewis & Lurie” was. However, to’ve displaced Lurie, the inventor himself, and placed himself at the forefront of the company name seems to imply significant sway. Mortimer G Lewis (co-founder of the Prentiss Vise Company), issued 23 patents between 1880-1905 (15 of them vise related). Lurie undoubtedly would’ve needed capital and a foundry to manufacture his vise. I theorize that Mortimer G Lewis was Lurie’s partner, at least for a time. Lewis & Lurie’s 142 Duane, NYC address was only 0.3 miles from the headquarters of the Prentiss Vise Company at 44 Barclay St.

The vise itself: A thin crack is present on both arms comprising the slide that runs about halfway through. Given the structure of the vise, it seems like an obvious point of weakness. All three of the base’s thumb screws had been sheared off when I purchased the vise, so I carefully extracted and replaced these. I carefully stripped the aftermarket paint while leaving enough while trying to preserve anything remaining of the base layer. I finished it with Sculpt Nouveau and a thin coat of Fluid Film. That combo yields as close to the look of aged japanning that I’ve ever seen.
@micahd1997 your passion and attention to the details never ceases to amaze me.
What style of the Sculpt Nouveau did you use? I’m still trying to nail down my go-to finish.
 

CRSINMICH

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 15, 2015
Messages
2,457
Location
Southeastern Michigan
Shift: This cut from Lewis' 1901 catalog gives a description of the part missing from your #8 and an explanation of its benefits.

1901 Lewis vise part.jpg

You might order a replacement "back jaw" but the price may have gone up a bit and 'supplies may be limited.'

1901 Lewis vise replacement parts.jpg

Also, the 1896 version and the 1901 improved version showed the vise with replaceable jaw faces. It's not clear from your photos, but it looks like your #8 does not. Another mystery?
 

micahd1997

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 27, 2022
Messages
275
Do any of you guys have a guess as to what is going on with this vise? Mine is missing this seemingly vital piece.
I'd be interested in closer pictures of the jaw (ex. underside, where the hole would normally be, etc.). I'll certainly never say that a mistake or one-off like yours couldn't happen, but generally my bent is to believe that there's more than meets the eye. I've seen very few vises that seem to truly fit the mold of "this one must've just flown under the radar at the factory". Prentiss and Lewis both were pretty diligent in accurately depicting their vises in their advertisements, and I have yet to see a depiction of Lewis's swivel jaw vises that don't depict the swivel jaw pin. But again...I'm fully ready and willing to be convinced otherwise. On yours specifically (I looked back to prior posts you've made about your #8), it did have a pretty heavy but well-done repair on the swivel jaw. Any chance that whoever repaired it welded over the hole? Or maybe even entirely replaced the steel of that back half?
@micahd1997 your passion and attention to the details never ceases to amaze me.
What style of the Sculpt Nouveau did you use? I’m still trying to nail down my go-to finish.
Thank you very much, I sure appreciate it! I used the Sculpt Nouveau "Black Magic" (although I bought several others to try out). Despite many fellow vise friends singing its praises over the years, this was my first time using it. Happy to offer any tips/tricks I learned in the process, but it really does do a great job at darkening the steel. I did find that it left the final texture a rather slate, dry look that I didn't really like. However, that's where the final step of applying the Fluid Film came in. That's what gave it the slightly glossy, deep brown look of aged japanning.
Also, the 1896 version and the 1901 improved version showed the vise with replaceable jaw faces. It's not clear from your photos, but it looks like your #8 does not. Another mystery?
Could you clarify what you're seeing in the 1901 catalog that would indicate replaceable jaw faces? I must be missing it
 

Shiftless

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 9, 2014
Messages
14,870
Location
East Bay SFO
Any chance that whoever repaired it welded over the hole? Or maybe even entirely replaced the steel of that back half?
That’s a reasonable question but the answer is No.
I enlisted the help of GJ member PierceA who is a serious collector and restorer of antique cars and mostly Parker vises. He did all the machining and I did the cosmetic. He too was perplexed at the lack of swivel jaw retaining pin either in the back or the side.
 

CRSINMICH

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 15, 2015
Messages
2,457
Location
Southeastern Michigan
michad: I made that assumption based on the drawings showing jaw faces that don't look like they are part of the cast jaws. I believe some vises had jaws with steel faces cast into the iron jaws (Reed for one, I think) but it is far more common for the faces to be screwed onto the jaws. It was just an assumption though and I'm aware of what 'assume' makes me. I'll look more into Lewis vises to see if 'replaceable faces' are mentioned.

1901 Lewis jaw faces.jpg
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

1Bad55Chevy

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 20, 2025
Messages
701
I picked up this 400N today, its dated 1970, and appears to have spent its entire life in the bottom of an oil/grease barrel. Would it be ok to dissasemble this thing and soak it in oven cleaner and scrub it clean with a wire brush? My plan with it is a good user vise since I absolutely hate my Wilton multi purpose vise.
20260831_123127.jpg20260831_123150.jpg20260831_123156.jpg

Also where is the best place to get replacement jaws?

This is my first vise restoration so I might have some other questions. I paid $113 for it so its not the best of deals but definitely not the worst!
 

Outlawmws

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 9, 2011
Messages
39,565
Location
The Badlands
Mix up some 100% lye drain cleaner (hardware store) and soak it in that -

lye solution--about 1 cup/gallon of dry lye powder to hot hot water. Add the lye to the water, always, and never the other way around! Use PPE, as lye attacks flesh.

Then with no grease or paint on it, Evaporust or an E-tank to de-rust.

from here the jaws don't look that bad?
 

Beerhippie

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 13, 2023
Messages
10,518
Location
Far NE Oregon
Mix up some 100% lye drain cleaner (hardware store) and soak it in that -

lye solution--about 1 cup/gallon of dry lye powder to hot hot water. Add the lye to the water, always, and never the other way around! Use PPE, as lye attacks flesh.

Then with no grease or paint on it, Evaporust or an E-tank to de-rust.

from here the jaws don't look that bad?
100%.

Oven cleaner is just a dilute lye solution, maybe with some foaming agent to make it look like it's doing something. Lye is the active ingredient, and much cheaper. Look in the plumbing dept. of the hardware store for "lye crystals". Red Devil is one common brand.

Please remember to ALWAYS add lye to water--NOT the other way around. If you pour water onto a pile of lye crystals, it can result in a violent exothermic reaction--AKA explosion. Having lye erupt in your face is a ticket to the ER. Adding the crystal to the water allows the lye to dissolve a little slower and the water to absorb the heat generated.

Your jaws are completely in "user" condition. You could buy nice ones, and then turn them into what you have in a couple of years of hard use.

I would suggest some kind of "soft jaw". Copper, brass, aluminum, UHWM--you don't always want to crush the hell out of your work and leave scars. My copper jaw covers live on the jaws of my vises 24/7, and only come off occasionally.
 
Last edited:

CRSINMICH

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 15, 2015
Messages
2,457
Location
Southeastern Michigan

SHIFTLESS et al.
Looking back at Mortimer Lewis' vise patents shows that he had swivel jaws from early on. The first two from 1883 and 1884 were for FRONT jaw swivelers and one of them used the commonly missing or stuck Tapered Pin. The swivel lock on the 1883 patent was on the side of the jaw not the rear. The 1905 patent was given to C Hanimann but assigned to Lewis and the swivel lock was located at the rear of the jaw.

Mortimer Lewis swivel jaw locking mechaniisms.jpg

Shift: I have no idea how this relates to your Lockless Lewis. Sorry!
 
Last edited:

1Bad55Chevy

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 20, 2025
Messages
701
100%.

Oven cleaner is just a dilute lye solution, maybe with some foaming agent to make it look like it's doing something. Lye is the active ingredient, and much cheaper. Look in the plumbing dept. of the hardware store for "lye crystals". Red Devil is one common brand.

Please remember to ALWAYS add lye to water--NOT the other way around. If you pour water onto a pile of lye crystals, it can result in a violent exothermic reaction--AKA explosion. Having lye erupt in your face is a ticket to the ER. Adding the crystal to the water allows the lye to dissolve a little slower and the water to absorb the heat generated.

Your jaws are completely in "user" condition. You could buy nice ones, and then turn them into what you have in a couple of years of hard use.

I would suggest some kind of "soft jaw". Copper, brass, aluminum, UHWM--you don't always want to crush the hell out of your work and leave scars. My copper jaw covers live on the jaws of my vises 24/7, and only come off occasionally.

Thanks for the response and also to @Outlawmws.

I am in the middle of trying to reorganize my shop and work simultaneously so its going to take me a week or so to get to this mini project.

On a side note... in the drawers of a work bench I purchased off Bidspotter I found multiple NEW sets of Craftsman 4" magnetic aluminum jaw protectors. I haven't had a chance actually use these, and I have never owned a set before but they look very useful! I also found two new sets of Craftsman 4" V block jaws but idk if they will fit this Wilton. I did decide to keep the jaws on it since they are packed full of grease and are in better shape then I gave them credit for.
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!
Top Bottom