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Safety warning for 1/4 Snap On ratchets

plewlandsbob

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Mar 21, 2009
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Elgin , Scotland
My local dealer came by today, I wanted to buy a TF72, flex head ratchet. He told me that he could not sell me one, as Snap On , here in the UK, have put a hold on sales of all T series 1/4 drive ratchets and repair kits, due to health and safety issues. He showed me the email, Snap On , sent out. Two dealers have been injured, fitting rebuild kits. They were holding the ratchets,with their thumb against the top of the ratchet, as they tightened the screws holding on the bottom plate. The screws have been tightened and possibly due to a hydrualic action have broken pieces out of the top of the ratchet. One guy had the piece embedded in his thumb ,to the depth of the bone.
He told me that he had experianced the screws becoming very tight on the last turn , while rebuilding them.
Hope this may be of some use and let guys be aware if rebuilding your own ratchets. My dealer was not aware of any problems with 3/8 or 1/2 ratchets.

Bob
 
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billymade

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sounds bizarre; could you post the email snap-on sent out? mrshaun; can you follow up on this with your product manager? Maybe this has something to do with different liability issues in Ireland? Regardless, sounds like something that needs more explanation....
 

mrholeshot

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In the same memo they banned the sale of Red Ryder BB guns off the Snap-On truck during the Christmas season due to catostrophic eye injury.
 

mrshaun

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In the same memo they banned the sale of Red Ryder BB guns off the Snap-On truck during the Christmas season due to catostrophic eye injury.

that was good....

We will see what was said. Not sure that I follow what the guy posted. I cant see how someone would get hurt repairing one of those. I have fixed 4-5 and no problems here.
 

GeorgiaHybrid

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Extreme NW Georgia
They were not supposed to keep their thumb between the plate and the ratchet body when they tightened the screws. That I can believe. Those little screws puting enough force on a ratchet body to break it, I can't believe.

And the last time I checked, screws usually get tight on the last turn....That is how you can tell they are tight......
 

mrshaun

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usually the torx driver strips out before you can actually tighten the screws down that hard. I bet they were using a power tool to zip them down if it broke.
 

Boiler

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Never ever occurred to me to use a power tool to screw those little microscopic buggers in and out....
 

mrshaun

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this was the one that would stretch the boot when installing it. you had to order the boots from a special company or something. they didnt last too long here. cvboot1 was the number i think
 

chadster1

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Location
Terrell, Texas
My local dealer came by today, I wanted to buy a TF72, flex head ratchet. He told me that he could not sell me one, as Snap On , here in the UK, have put a hold on sales of all T series 1/4 drive ratchets and repair kits, due to health and safety issues. He showed me the email, Snap On , sent out. Two dealers have been injured, fitting rebuild kits. They were holding the ratchets,with their thumb against the top of the ratchet, as they tightened the screws holding on the bottom plate. The screws have been tightened and possibly due to a hydrualic action have broken pieces out of the top of the ratchet. One guy had the piece embedded in his thumb ,to the depth of the bone.
He told me that he had experianced the screws becoming very tight on the last turn , while rebuilding them.
Hope this may be of some use and let guys be aware if rebuilding your own ratchets. My dealer was not aware of any problems with 3/8 or 1/2 ratchets.

Bob


It's news to me. Nothing about this in the dealer portal.
 

Griff93

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Location
Huntsville, AL
Thanks for the info. I remember seeing those. I have one of the CV clamp SO tools which is what I thought you were talking about.
 

t100

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Sep 3, 2009
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I have no idea what the OP is talking about. I've been switching heads between my 1/4" and 3/8" flex head ratchets number of times, I just can't see how it happens.
 

stock z/28

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Dec 17, 2006
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298
I have no idea if this is true or not, but the way I understand it, is the bolt holes are "blind", and aparently oil or grease is getting in the hole when the screw is out? When the screw is reinstalled and tightened the hydraulic force breaks the back of the tool?

If this is the case, I can believe it happens. I have seen a lot of blind holes damaged by hydraulic action.
 

Hiball

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I have no idea if this is true or not, but the way I understand it, is the bolt holes are "blind", and aparently oil or grease is getting in the hole when the screw is out? When the screw is reinstalled and tightened the hydraulic force breaks the back of the tool?

If this is the case, I can believe it happens. I have seen a lot of blind holes damaged by hydraulic action.

Ah-Ha... This Makes Sense. I expect if the Dealer is refusing to make the sale there must be something to it.
 

Theloniousmonk

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Ah-Ha... This Makes Sense. I expect if the Dealer is refusing to make the sale there must be something to it.

It does make sense... my observation then; if hydraulic pressure will blow out the back of a SO ratchet (fairly high quality and stout right?), with such a small fastener (yea, physics aside), are these ratchets made in the same place as the pieces sold in america? I can only think of a fairly thin piece of metal allowing this to occur.
 

stock z/28

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It does make sense... my observation then; if hydraulic pressure will blow out the back of a SO ratchet (fairly high quality and stout right?), with such a small fastener (yea, physics aside), are these ratchets made in the same place as the pieces sold in america? I can only think of a fairly thin piece of metal allowing this to occur.

I am certainly no expert but I have seen 1/4" timming cover bolts break automotive blocks when a bit of silicone sealer was left in the holes.

I have also seen several head bolt, and main bolt holes cracked in the way with oil.

I pay a lot of attention to blind holes especially if the fastener is close to bottoming anyway. I think some liquid in the bottom of a threaded hole and closely fitting fasteners can build a lot of pressure when tightened.
 
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Theloniousmonk

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I am certainly no expert but I have seen 1/4" timming cover bolts break automotive blocks when a bit of silicone sealer was left in the holes.

I have also seen several head bolt, and main bolt holes cracked in the way with oil.

I pay a lot of attention to blind holes especially if the fastener is close to bottoming anyway. I think some liquid in the bottom of a threaded hole and closely fitting fasteners can build a lot of pressure when tightened.

yea, i hear yea... that is what a shopvac w/ pencil tip & a blowgun is for. But, there are what 6 or 7 threads on those little screws, and enough play that pressure would theoretically be released through the threads before blowing out the ratchet case... it makes sense that it could happen, but sounds more like an urban legend starting up, imo.
 

stock z/28

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Like I said, I dont know about the ratchets, but the damage on engine components is far from a urban legend.

I have seen and repaired quite a few blocks/heads that have been damaged this way.

Typically (atleast in my experience) its not debris left in the hole that does damage, its some type of cleaning/locking agent and/or lube that is applied excessively during assembly that does the damage.

Ever use grease in blind holes to remove bushings or similar components?
 

mbatarga

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GA
It's obvious the 1/4" ratchets are faulty and worthless. Send them to me so you won't be harmed in their use!
 

mrshaun

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maybe this is how they are breaking things.
ct6850o
gsaf1e
gfat1e
ttx8e
not sure if attachment is working or not... we will see
 

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mrshaun

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well how else do you blow out the back of the ratchet. you would have to use the wrong screws and use something high speed to put that much force on something that small.
I bet they used the wrong parts if that "actually" happened
 

ngk22r

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AZ
In my experience in rebuild the ratchets is that the head of the tiny bolt will snap when its gets too tight.
 

mrshaun

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well here it is. there is a safety warning will not hurt you as a customer. only me.............. copied from my email
HAZARD:
Risk of serious personal injury to your hand could occur if you hold the ratchet head in
your hand when applying final torque to ratchet screws during ratchet repairs. In those
cases where the screw holes are drilled too deep, any foreign objects in one of those
screw holes could break through the back of the ratchet housing.
ACTIONS:
Do not place hand on backside of ratchet when applying final torque to ratchet screws
during ratchet repair. Place ratchet on a hard surface or hold in vise during final
tightening. Be sure that the screw hole is free of any ball or obstructions.
If you encounter any of these ratchets where there isa break through the back of the
ratchet housing, return the ratchet for full warranty.
Note: This does not affect use of ratchet.
There is no need to contact your
customers since this is only a
possible issue during ratchet repair.
 

MrMark

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So what exactly happens here? The case breaks open in the back where the screw threads are tapped too deep (causing a thin casing in that area) What would happen is the screw would force some foreign matter to push against the thin casing and break it during the final torquing. What I don't understand is how a case "blow out" in that area is going to drive anything into your hand?
 

mrshaun

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I bet the hole had trash in it and was not properly cleaned out. the picture they sent ( i cant pull it out of the pdf file ) shows a little hole in the back of the case that looks like a drill bit went through it.
 

MrMark

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well that little hole would be where the fod pushed through? I don't see how anything is going to be forced into the person's hand unless the entire screw suddenly is allowed to go through the ratchet casing and drive the fod and bits of ratchet casing and screw into the person's hand.
 

MrMark

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MrShaun, while we are discussing dual 80 1/4 ratchets would you tell me what lube is used in dual 80 ratchets?

Is it the super lube like comes in the kits for the older ratchets or is it the red mobil ratchet grease that you are supposed to use to lube the air ratchets with on a daily basis?
 

MrMark

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superlube i presume. there are many threads here about what you should use.

You mean you are given the clear superlube in the dual 80 kits?

I thought you have taken them apart and put kits in? Is the grease red or clear?

I know all about many threads on ratchet lubrication, what I don't know, and still don't know, is what is in Snap-on dual 80's.
 

Hiball

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Missery
Thanks to the OP and Shaun for following up, with all the lube talk here at Gj maybe we should sticky this for a bit. Hell I never lubes a ratchet in my life till I joined up hear, I miss meek and his Rll stories LOL....
 

MrMark

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I suppose I could just take mine apart to see, but I would like to have the proper stuff on hand before doing so. I have a feeling it's the red ratchet grease and not the super lube. Hopefully, someone who has taken a dual 80 apart will chime in. I asked Snap-on customer service about it once and they said the mobil red grease (part no. ya4190dis) but I wanted to confirm with the field.

http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item...&group_ID=2820&store=snapon-store&dir=catalog
 
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walrus

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Maine
Thanks to the OP and Shaun for following up, with all the lube talk here at Gj maybe we should sticky this for a bit. Hell I never lubes a ratchet in my life till I joined up hear, I miss meek and his Rll stories LOL....

I still don't lube mine other than a quick spray of whatever is around.
 
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