Clausing Mk3a Lathe

[hpmachining]

I bought this lathe off Craigslist for $400. Just picked it up yesterday. It seems to be in very good shape, other than the color It might seem a bit ironic, being a self-employed machinist, but I've never owned a lathe before. I should note that I do have experience running a lathe, just haven't owned one. I've been doing a lot of research and reading, but any pointers on getting it setup and running will be greatly appreciated.

Here is the description from the listing, as well as some pictures.

12 x 36 Clausing Mk3a 100 series metal lathe. Similar to an Atlas 4800.

220 volt single phase. Has about 6 foot of cord with a 3 prong male plug.

Power crossfeed, quick change gear box, clutch/ brake, back gear, reversing switch for motor, No.2 morse taper tailstock, No.3 morse taper with 3/4 through hole.

4 jaw independent chuck, 3 jaw scroll chuck, face plate, Jacob's chuck, live center, dead center, rocker tool post and some other miscellaneous items pictured.

This lathe is about 80 yrs. Old. There are some nicks in the ways but it does not appear to have any heavy wear visually. There have been a couple repairs made as pictured. One gear in the quadrant has 2 chipped teeth. These teeth are not consecutive to each other or broke all the way across so there is still constant engagement and does not affect operation.

 

[JuncleJohn]

Very nice. What a great score. I never knew that Clausing had a facility in Iowa.

Congrat’s

John

 

[hpmachining]

I never knew that Clausing had a facility in Iowa.

Yep, that's where Clausing started. There is an interesting article by Don Clausing on the history of the company. He was the son of one of the founders, Paul Clausing. TLDR, it wasn't until after Atlas bought them that manufacturing was shifted to other locations.

 

[RoninB4]

any pointers on getting it setup and running will be greatly appreciated.

-Would begin with a thorough cleaning. Lube all cups and a light coat of oil on ALL machined surfaces including under the tail stock. Keep a light coat of oil on the bed ways. Those chipped gears may give you trouble when single point threading if you plan on that. Would test the headstock for perpendicularity to the bed and test the tail stock spindle axis for being parallel to the bed and being concentric to headstock spindle axis. Clean out and lube the lead screw, there's always chips-n-gunk in them. Inspect all the belts and replace as needed. Check for excess play in the saddle gibs and the cross feed gibs, adjust as needed. There's plenty of stuff you can purchase for the lathe (QC tool post) but that's up to what you want. I would suggest getting a bench grinder for the HSS square bits. Might also suggest making a center setting block/cylinder for easier setting of cutter height. What you plan to do will often dictate what you should do to the lathe and the tooling purchases. What else do you want to know? Looks like it was a decent buy. Congratulations on the addition to the shop.

 

[hpmachining]

UPDATE: @mm08822 answered this post in Lighting and Electrical.

Any electricians here that can help me with wiring this lathe for 110V? I think I know what I need to do, but would like someone with more knowledge to check my work. Here is the motor tag:

I have an Allen-Bradley 350-TAV32 reversing drum switch with this configuration:


Here is what I came up with:
C1 to terminal 3
C2 to terminal 2
[T1 & T2] to terminal 1
[T3 & T4] to terminal 4
L1 to terminal 4
L2 to terminal 6
Jump terminal 5 to terminal 1

I used this video to help me come up with this. Is what I came up with correct?

 

[hpmachining]

Thank you for the pointers @RoninB4. I do have a couple bench grinders, as well as a surface grinder. I know tooling will be another rabbit hole. I'll just start out with some HSS square bits to play with and familiarize myself with the lathe. First thing is to get it cleaned up, wired and leveled then go from there. I'll be sure to check those items you mentioned.

 

[RoninB4]

Thank you for the pointers @RoninB4.

-I hope my suggestions were of some help to you. I've wired a few of my own machines but not confident enough to offer wiring info over the internet and there's more knowledgeable electricians than me here.

I do have a couple bench grinders, as well as a surface grinder.

-Out of curiosity what SG do you have? I find a SG to be almost essential for a lot of projects where parallel/perpendicular or hardened steel is involved.

I'll just start out with some HSS square bits to play with and familiarize myself with the lathe.

-Probably the best route to go. First thing is to determine if the lathe is even capable of running at speeds high enough to utilize carbide. Secondly would be if the lathe is slop/vibration free enough to not chip the cutting edge of carbide. Getting a grinder capable of touching up carbide is on the expensive side. Carbide works well for a lot of things but it's not the panacea most people think it is.

First thing is to get it cleaned up, wired and leveled then go from there. I'll be sure to check those items you mentioned.

-Hope it all works out for you, it's a nice looking model for the age it is.

 

[Death Row Dave]

I may possibly have some gears for you . Need od measurement , if interested

 

[hpmachining]

Out of curiosity what SG do you have?

It's a Boyar-Schultz HR612. Here is a link that gives an overview of my equipment. HPM Equipment

I may possibly have some gears for you . Need od measurement , if interested

Yes, I am interested! Nominal OD of the gear with the chipped teeth is 4.625".

 

[Firebrick43]

To add what has already been recommended, I would recommend replacing the way wipers. I "think" yours are felt and that makes new ones easy to DIY. The last clausing colchester lathe that was rubber I had to draw up and 3D prints some out of TPU.

Also for small light lathes I would recommend getting a pair of LH and RH diamond tangential tools. They are dead simple to grind the HSS bits.

The Diamond Tool Holder | Eccentric Engineering

www.eccentricengineering.com.au

Many home shop machinist try to use carbide inserts from larger machines because they are more common in that setting in the 300 or 400 size and with negative angles. They are way to aggressive for a small lathe without rigidity. Stay away from negative rake tooling even if the idea of double the usable corners sounds appealing. I like the CCMT/CCGT because they build positive rake into the insert.



To supplement the HHS tool holders I would recommend some small CCMT 21.51 insert tool holders are available import in cheap sets for steel and CCGT high hook angle inserts available to use in the same holders for aluminum and brass and don't need high horsepower/rigidity of a large lathe. They are available in 3/8" shank sizes and work well with an AXA tool post on a lathe your size.

AR warner makes HSS inserts for them for even lower cutting forces but I think your lathe will handle the above inserts fine.

Standard and Specialty Inserts

 

[hpmachining]

Thanks for the feedback, @Firebrick43.

I "think" yours are felt and that makes new ones easy to DIY.

Yes, they are felt. There was even what looks like a new one for the flat ways in with a bag of miscellaneous stuff.

Also for small light lathes I would recommend getting a pair of LH and RH diamond tangential tools.

Those look interesting. I'll check them out when I get things running and start down the tooling rabbit hole. I have a very large selection of tools for milling but practically nothing yet for turning. And yes, I agree with you concerning negative rake inserts. I wouldn't try to use them on something with so little power and rigidity, relatively speaking.

Thanks again for your insights.