New? Shop-tool for comfortably torquing lug nuts/ wheel studs while vehicle is on the lift.

[Nobody-named-Olli]

Hi!

A company, fairly local to me, introduced a shop tool for torquing lug nuts/ wheel studs while the vehicle is on the lift - which could be considered very comfy/ good for your back I guess.

I have no stakes in this, I just looked into it after I saw it on YT and found out it’s a local company behind the tool. And I think it’s worth sharing. Maybe some already have “DIY” solutions for this, maybe it isn’t even that new and similar products already exist/ exist in North America? I don’t recall seeing something like this before, and if it actually saves one back it’s maybe worth it?

It’s a aluminum bar with two plates that “locks” the tire against the floor. This is the manufacturer: https://easyknack.com/

Picture copyright easyknack.com



Picture copyright easyknack.com

Kind regards,
Olli

 

[inphx]

seems like a few physics variables would make that ineffective

 

[u2slow]

When you have an operable lift, one tends to lower the vehicle near the floor so you dont have to strain your back lifting the tires/wheels. Then either put it on the floor for final torque, or use a wheel chock.

But I'm no licensed mechanic....

 

[Buckgnarly]

Interesting tool! We lower the lift until the tires barely touch to hand torque all tires at school, but I gotta admit as I get older something like this would make it MUCH easier! How much, though, my German is rough as it's been 30 years since high school!!

 

[Nobody-named-Olli]

Could be that someone interested in this is already using a tire lift?

Also, not a mechanic, but I see all sorts of gadgets popping up to supposedly making life easier & shop owner’s pockets lighter.


-

@Buckgnarly I’ve only found one store so far in Germany selling it, and they are selling it for 159,- Euro/ 185,- USD. MSRP is said to be 199,- Euro/ 231,- USD

Kind regards,
Olli

 

[51dueller]

Looks like this could be accomplished much cheaper and faster with a brake pedal depresser tool, then could do all four wheels at once without setting it up for each wheel individually.

 

[lolaetype]

To me it looks like a solution looking for a problem. I tighten the lug nuts as well as I can with the car at a comfortable level and do what others have suggested; lower the car until the tires touch the floor sufficiently to prevent their rotation when I torque the lug nuts. But that's hobbyist/home use. Do tire shops do anything differently?

 

[manwithtools]

Do tire shops do anything differently?

Nope...

 

[u2slow]

Do tire shops do anything differently?

13 uggaduggas and send it out.

Thats my estimate.... based on trying to loosen them the next time.

 

[Schurkey]

My concern is that if the vehicle is somewhat unstable on the lift, torquing the lug nuts causes the wheel to jack-up on the support bar...which tosses the car off the lift.

That thing is a HARD "NO!" from me. Lock the brakes instead. Or just put the vehicle back on the ground.

 

[Twisted Sid]

Will be fun when someone forgets to grab it from under the tire and it gets loaded and flung like a javelin or sent up into the car when the lift is lowered

 

[YesIHaveAHammer]

I don’t recall seeing something like this before

Bessey STE telescopic drywall prop. Various lengths available.

Being telescopic you can also use it to hold anything up or sideways in place.

Much cheaper too.

 

[Nobody-named-Olli]

Great input everyone!

Kind regards,
Olli

 

[Yankeefarmer]

Whether on my 4 post lift or the floor, I just lower that corner and put a block of 2x4 or 4x4 under the tire where the rotation of the tire while tightening wedges it between the tire and runway/floor.

 

[Sumboodie]

To me it looks like a solution looking for a problem. I tighten the lug nuts as well as I can with the car at a comfortable level and do what others have suggested; lower the car until the tires touch the floor sufficiently to prevent their rotation when I torque the lug nuts. But that's hobbyist/home use. Do tire shops do anything differently?

When I worked at Sears, i did tireson 3 4 post lifts with axle jacks.
Or had 2 in floor old style 1 cylinder air lift.
Just liwer car or hold tire with 1 hand and torque wrench with the other.

Makes me wonder what happened to all that equipment. It was a shop for 50 or 60 years. Now an REI? Hippie camping store and a guitar store.

 

[djbmw]

Generally the vehicle is simply lowered. Torque sticks are commonly used on lug nuts while the vehicle is in the air. If you must use a torque wrench instead, or need to torque an axle nut with the wheel off (instead of just removing the rim center cap), then applying the vehicles brakes via a brake depressor tool - or a stick of your choice - is what's typically done. Having said that - i dont see the need for the tool that OP posted.

 

[Hannahranga]

Could get very fancy and get a rad/torque gun, I've seen ones with nylon arm covers to not damage the wheel. As bonus you've now got some traceability over what torques were done. Tho best prepare your wallet

 

[Bad Eye Bill]

Broken hockey stick shaft shoved between the wheel spokes and jammed against the caliper was the preferred method of a guy I used to work with.

 

[ChefRex]

Cars make bad noises when they fall off a lift.

 

[Wrench97]

Looks like this could be accomplished much cheaper and faster with a brake pedal depresser tool, then could do all four wheels at once without setting it up for each wheel individually.

No never do that, drums/rotors can be held out of position/cocked by the brakes giving false torque readings.

 

[danielbuck]

Whether on my 4 post lift or the floor, I just lower that corner and put a block of 2x4 or 4x4 under the tire where the rotation of the tire while tightening wedges it between the tire and runway/floor.

I've done that with vehicles on jack stands. works particularly well with knobby offroad tires you can jam the 2x4 into. So many good uses for random lengths of 2x4 and 4x6 lumber.

 

[ChevyEFI]

You mean I can't use my vintage HF adjustable cargo retaining bar and do the same thing?

 

[djbmw]

No never do that, drums/rotors can be held out of position/cocked by the brakes giving false torque readings.

Huh?
The application of the brake simply prevents the wheel from spinning as you use the torque wrench to tighten the wheel lug nuts.

 

[mikedodge]

No never do that, drums/rotors can be held out of position/cocked by the brakes giving false torque readings.

Huh?
The application of the brake simply prevents the wheel from spinning as you use the torque wrench to tighten the wheel lug nuts.

I think he means how some vehicles if you apply the brakes with the wheels off the rotors or drums move out a bit or go crooked and no longer fully sitting flush with the hub. So if you lock the brakes on before putting the wheels on that could cause problems. At least I think that's what that's about. But if you bolt the wheels on first and then use something to keep the brakes applied when you torque them it would be a non issue.

 

[Wrench97]

Huh?
The application of the brake simply prevents the wheel from spinning as you use the torque wrench to tighten the wheel lug nuts.

On loose wheel the drums/rotors can **** thus then you release the brake the wheel is no longer tight.
Now if the wheel is already tight first that's different.

 

[Nobody-named-Olli]

Really interesting to read the different takes on this, thank you very much everyone!

Kind regards,
Olli

 

[roofdweller49]

What's the difference between putting slight weight on the wheel vs the full weight of the car on the wheel before tightening?

 

[KnurledNut]

What's the difference between putting slight weight on the wheel vs the full weight of the car on the wheel before tightening?

When loaded, the wheel studs may not center correctly causing the lug nuts to not seat fully.

 

[rust in the eye]

Another solution in search of a problem.

 

[djbmw]

On loose wheel the drums/rotors can **** thus then you release the brake the wheel is no longer tight.
Now if the wheel is already tight first that's different.

That sounds more like a mounting issue and only on lug centric rims. I cant see that happening on hub centric at all - As long as the rim bore is sitting flush/fully on the hub ring while you snug the lugs, you shouldnt have this problem.

I can see a potential for this happening on lug centric rims if the rim mounting surface is not sitting flush with the disc brake/drum brake face while tightening the nuts.

After installing thoudands of wheel assemblies (while in the air on a lift), I have never had it happen to me. Having said that, only a few dozen were done with the brake being applied while lifted.

Usually, however, I torque axle nuts (315 ft/lbs. On many of the BMWs) while in the air, with the brakes applied.

 

[Wrench97]

That sounds more like a mounting issue and only on lug centric rims. I cant see that happening on hub centric at all - As long as the rim bore is sitting flush/fully on the hub ring while you snug the lugs, you shouldnt have this problem.

I can see a potential for this happening on lug centric rims if the rim mounting surface is not sitting flush with the disc brake/drum brake face while tightening the nuts.

After installing thoudands of wheel assemblies (while in the air on a lift), I have never had it happen to me. Having said that, only a few dozen were done with the brake being applied while lifted.

Usually, however, I torque axle nuts (315 ft/lbs. On many of the BMWs) while in the air, with the brakes applied.

The axle nut has no bearing on the brake rotor as it holds the axle to the hub. The rotor goes on the hub BMW's do use a bolt to hold the rotor to the hub but if you've ever manually bled the brakes with the wheel off I'm sure you've see the rotor move when the brakes are applied on vehicles that do not have bolts attaching the rotors to the hubs.

 

[kbeefy]

I usually just torque the wheels or axle after setting it back on the ground.
If I need to toque anything roatational while on the lift I'll just rig something up with a prybar.

You mean I can't use my vintage HF adjustable cargo retaining bar and do the same thing?

I was thinking the same thing! I have some in the garage...

 

[djbmw]

The axle nut has no bearing on the brake rotor as it holds the axle to the hub. The rotor goes on the hub BMW's do use a bolt to hold the rotor to the hub but if you've ever manually bled the brakes with the wheel off I'm sure you've see the rotor move when the brakes are applied on vehicles that do not have bolts attaching the rotors to the hubs.

Yes... but im still not understanding the potential issue.

If the hub has studs then the rotor is already lined up with the studs,... hold the rim on flat and snug all nuts up by hand before using a torque wrench. I dont see how applying the brake at this point, with the wheel in the air, will impact the alignment or skew the rim since its already flush to all surfaces and snugged up by hand. The only way it can become skewed is if the technician doesnt hold the rim flush while hand tightening the nuts.

With an assembly that uses lug bolts (like BMWs)... lets assume the rotor didnt have a set screw and was loose,... you still need to ensure proper alignment or else the bolts wont be able to thread in. Again, ensuring everything is flat/flush and hand tight before applying the brake and finishing with a torque wrench in the air.

 

[Wrench97]

Yes... but im still not understanding the potential issue.

If the hub has studs then the rotor is already lined up with the studs,... hold the rim on flat and snug all nuts up by hand before using a torque wrench. I dont see how applying the brake at this point, with the wheel in the air, will impact the alignment or skew the rim since its already flush to all surfaces and snugged up by hand. The only way it can become skewed is if the technician doesnt hold the rim flush while hand tightening the nuts.

With an assembly that uses lug bolts (like BMWs)... lets assume the rotor didnt have a set screw and was loose,... you still need to ensure proper alignment or else the bolts wont be able to thread in. Again, ensuring everything is flat/flush and hand tight before applying the brake and finishing with a torque wrench in the air.

The issue is when you apply the brake before installing the nuts.
More commonly an issue with drum brakes than disc but it's still pressure against torque spec.

 

[whateg01]

seems like a few physics variables would make that dangerous

FIFY

Just need the tire to climb the pole and lift itself off the lift arm

 

[whateg01]

When loaded, the wheel studs may not center correctly causing the lug nuts to not seat fully.

If I give it 2 ugga duggas before lowering it, the nuts/bolts are in full contact and it's just the stretch of the stud/bolt that has yet to occur.

 

[djbmw]

The issue is when you apply the brake before installing the nuts.
More commonly an issue with drum brakes than disc but it's still pressure against torque spec.

Got it.
Thats an installation/technician issue in that case and not a problem with applying the brakes with the vehicle in the air while torquing the nuts.
The technician needs to hand tighten/snug the nuts/bolts while all surfaces are aligned/flat before applying the brake. If he follows that sequence then there's no issue.

 

[whateg01]

Got it.
Thats an installation/technician issue in that case and not a problem with applying the brakes with the vehicle in the air while torquing the nuts.
The technician needs to hand tighten/snug the nuts/bolts while all surfaces are aligned/flat before applying the brake. If he follows that sequence then there's no issue.

If there's a way for somebody to screw it up, somebody will.

 

[DG930]

I'm sorry but that thing is just stupid. In addition to the aforementioned safety concerns, who wants to take the time to tweak the tire height so it works properly? I'd say the effective range (between being too high or too low to work right) is probably about 5 inches. Then I'm going to walk it around to all 4 corners? That's one of those tools that someone buys and uses just once because it is just easier to lower the tires to the ground and torque them there. $185 to boot. Just the concept of that thing aggravates me.

"Healthier, more productive, safe and efficient" my balls.

 

[YesIHaveAHammer]

they are selling it for 159,- Euro/ 185,- USD. MSRP is said to be 199,- Euro/ 231,- USD

They must think there's a market for it at this price?

The idea is fine, but it's just a pole with a curved swivel pad at each end. As well not being able to see where the money is in it, most people who would use one, could very easily make their own.