Overboost44
Well-known member
Good point. Mine are slated to be 24" OC. While it concerns me, I am guessing it will be fine. We will be stick building the trusses, so I still have the option to go 16"
Between 705 & 1200 SQ/FT The Hobby Shop - Down in the Holler (24'x32')
- Thread starter Magneto
- Start date
Workspaces between 705 and 1200 squarefeet.
More progress….the Tennessee work ethic is unsurpassed. I have a Labor Day roof. The GC with his mini-X pulled the dirt away from the foundation to reveal the brick ledge. Mason expected next week. I spent the last two days hanging outlet/switch boxes and pulling 12/2 wire. I have about 75% of the wiring complete. Tomorrow I will pick up a sub-panel. Yesterday about 5 pm I walked into garage and there were 3 fawns standing at the front corner of workshop checking it out. I wish I had my phone to snap a pic. Last night the coyotes woke me up yipping and howling. Sounded like there was about 10 of them. The woods across the street is about 1400 acres abundant with wildlife. I haven’t seen as many turkeys these last couple months. Maybe the heat is keeping them away, or the coyotes are eating well.
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Picked up a 100amp Homeline Square D panel box today. Same panel I had in my old shop. I wanted the 12 circuit panel, out of stock, so I grabbed this 20 circui panel. Only about 6 inches longer, and 12 bucks more. It will do. My 50 gallon air compressor will sit in that same corner with its own dedicated circuit. Most of my wiring is done, I will start tying everything into the panel. Still need to grab 2 ground rods and some 10 gauge wire for the mini-split 30 amp disconnect. I thought about doing my own mini-split install but if you’re not a licensed HVAC technician it almost always voids the warranty on the units. All my research on mini-splits is leading me to the Mitsubishi units. Anyone have other advice? Also, notice the sill plate cut-outs for my conduit. This was after I told the framers I had hole saw bits to make those cuts. They said they were all set. So, I will cut some blocks to fit in those openings.
No idea about the mini split, but this is super disappointing!
madison069
Well-known member
More circuit is better than not enough circuits.
Ran my feeder from house over to the shop In 2” conduit. Of course, as I was about to lay the first section of conduit the sky opened up for a few minutes and partially filled the trench. After some bailing I was back in business working in a messy clay pit. The 1” conduit will contain a run of CAT6 cable. Those conduits will be separated with 8” of dirt. Brick was delivered with all the mortar supplies. Attached an isolated ground bar in my sub panel box and connected the GEC. I popped the GEC out the wall and will connect it to the two 8’ cooper rods I hope to pound in the ground today. I may pick up an SDS+ ground driver bit for my Dewalt hammer drill.
larry4406
Well-known member
I am no sparky, but I am pretty sure your feeder needs to be in conduit not free wire as shown. I think I would have put the panel to the stud bay at right and put the main at the bottom.
Calling @wyliesdiesels
Calling @wyliesdiesels
madison069
Well-known member
I had to check, mine was wrapped like romex from the junction box to the breaker panel. So I’m not sure about the rules on that either.
M.Brane
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Just put some flex on it, and you're good.
manwithtools
ALLIANCE MEMBER
It all depends on the cable rating...
Wired the panel today and some outlets/switches. Installed some hurricane straps to the trusses and top sill plate. Today was HOT as Hades! 
One of the bricklayers, 70 year old with COPD, fell ill from the heat and the crew had to knock off early. What they did get done looks great. The heat here in Middle Tennessee is out of the ordinary for this time of year. Should be cooling down some.
One of the bricklayers, 70 year old with COPD, fell ill from the heat and the crew had to knock off early. What they did get done looks great. The heat here in Middle Tennessee is out of the ordinary for this time of year. Should be cooling down some.madison069
Well-known member
Bricks looking good!
Yea it’s been hot around here too.
Yea it’s been hot around here too.
One wall complete, moved around to the back and got about half done before they called it a day. It was another SCORCHER! 
. The ole Mason sat this one out, he stayed home in the AC. Right choice. I finished the entire wiring today. Just need to hook up to the main panel. Gonna wait on that for a while. I’ll move on to insulation & sheathing.
. The ole Mason sat this one out, he stayed home in the AC. Right choice. I finished the entire wiring today. Just need to hook up to the main panel. Gonna wait on that for a while. I’ll move on to insulation & sheathing.manwithtools
ALLIANCE MEMBER
FYI. If that's being inspected, it's not going to pass...
The brick work is looking good though.
manwithtools
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Yes, the conduit that houses your service conductors entering the box requires a proper termination fitting and lock nut and a bushing for the entrance to the box. Anything larger than #4 requires a bushing in addition to the male termination fitting. All cables require strain relief, I can't see if they all have it.
You can't just put your 90 degree sweep into the box.
Also, all cables require staples or other within 12" of the panel entry.
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manwithtools
ALLIANCE MEMBER
I hope I've helped, not trying to be negative. Just noticing code misses.Thanks, I‘ll have a chat with the electrician.
The part I dislike the most, insulating, although I must say I don’t find this pink stuff as itchy as it was years ago. I stapled in all the rafter vents & insulated around the opening. I was back & forth about batts or blown-in insulation for the ceiling. I went with R-38 batts. I will probably criss-cross some R-13 over top of it. This coming week I hope to get all the insulation in and install some blocking for my cabinets, tv mount, and mini-split. The vinyl siding and rain gutter folks are suppose to stop by this week To provide quotes. The garage door is on order and about 3 weeks out. Will probably wire up the main house panel and energize this sub-panel and test all the circuits. 
