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Snap On flare nut wrenches

Waiting

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Mar 9, 2010
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8
I'm not really a tool guy but due to browsing posts here I'm looking on ebay for some Snap On flare nut wrenches. I've noticed that there are different series numbers (or letters) and different beam shapes/widths. I'm wondering which are preferred. Right now I'll be working on the fuel line on my pickup and later on the oil lines on a couple of old motorcycles I own.
Thanks,
gary
 
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willf650

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Take a peak on eBay for Proto. They make/made a "combination" style flare nut wrench you can probably get for a fraction of the Snap-on price.

They may be a little rarer in the wild but I have a set of the Proto
 

KnurledNut

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First and foremost, it seems @Waiting has done some research and found out Snap-on are among the best when it comes to flare nut, also known as line wrenches. Good initial choice and many agree. But don't completely eliminate other high quality options.


So...lots can be said about these. I'll give it a go and try to provide a cliff notes version of key points I have learned over the years.

Snap-on has offered several different patterns of flare nut wrenches over the years, with the most common being the double flare end six point.
Less common patterns include:
-Single flare end with a round handle
-12 point double flare end
-Combination flare with a thicker open end
-Above combination version with a "ratcheting" open end for speeding out fasteners
-Crowsfoot flare end
-Flare end interchangeable torque wrench heads

Focusing on just the double flare six point wrenches, the older ones had V-shaped depressions in the beam.
-These were made for many years and are still quite popular to find second hand.
-These wrenches prior to 1967 (or 12 point pre-1965) did not have the off corner drive design Snap-on calls Flank Drive. This important feature is largely why they work so well. As such, I would not recommend the old ones without it. A patent number on the back of the wrench means it has flank drive, but they don't all have it. Visually looking for the corner reliefs on the flare opening is the best method.
-Metric wrenches didn't appear until around 1970 so all of those should have the feature.

Pictured below:
-12 point single flare wrench
-Combination flank drive open/flare wrench
-Pre-flank drive RXV1314S with a "not guaranteed" limited warranty stamp
-Flank drive RXH1314S with the patent number. Notice the beefed up design.
55535937118_c38bae497d_b.jpg

Pictured below:
-Flank drive 15/17mm with the wrench flats parallel to the body
-Flank drive 19/21mm with the wrench flats clocked 15° to the body
-1967 early flank drive 12-point 7/8 & 1-1/8 without the patent number stamp, possibly pat. pending.
55536211335_fcc229d3b9_b.jpg

Around 1986, a major revision happened, and the beams were redesigned to the flat basic shape we know today. The suffix "A" was added to the end of the part numbers. These are not as common to find because they had a short production span due to a second major revision happening around 1990/91 when the "B" suffix design appeared. The changes were more subtle, but from my personal comparison, it seems like the offset head angle may have changed slightly, bigger legible markings, the flare opening design optimized for improved performance and a higher level of finishing. This version is still in current production today and also quite common to find used, but typically at a higher premium.

Pictured below:
-A suffix revision wrench - 5/8 & 11/16
-B suffix revision wrench - 16 & 18mm
-Williams USA flank drive 1/4 and 5/16 (Williams is a Snap-on industrial company and while they are not identical their flare wrenches do share features and are of good quality and value new. Unfortunately the USA made wrenches are only available in SAE sizes.)
https://www.williams-industrial.com...ut-wrench-set--5-piece-set--sae-pb_ws-14.html
55535937128_7cddc58ef1_b.jpg

In summary:
-Any of the Snap-on flank drive versions should perform well. The latest models are obviously slightly more refined and optimized, but not so much as to make the older versions not a consideration.
-Important: If buying used, inspect closely for damage. Spread jaws can be hard to see. Damaged/cut/missing chrome can also be an issue as they often rub against surrounding objects. Hammer/cheater marks are a big warning sign.

:beer:

P.S. Congratulations to the OP for his first post in 12 years! :willy_nil
 
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Waiting

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Thanks for the replies, @roofdweller49 and @willf650 . Combination wrenches might be a good idea. I do have some Proto wrenches that I've had since I was sixteen, my uncle gave them to me when I got my first motorcycle. No flare nuts though.
 
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OP
W

Waiting

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Mar 9, 2010
Messages
8
In summary:
-Any of the Snap-on flank drive versions should perform well. The latest models are obviously slightly more refined and optimized, but not so much as to make the older versions not a consideration.
-Important: If buying used, inspect closely for damage. Spread jaws can be hard to see. Damaged/cut/missing chrome can also be an issue as they often rub against surrounding objects. Hammer/cheater marks are a big warning sign.
A "thank you" doesn't seem like enough for your post but that's all I've got. I feel like I'm now pretty well armed to sort through the multitude of listings on ebay.
 
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willf650

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Here's a Williams and a Proto combination flare nut wrench of the same size.
IMG_2831.jpeg


Here's the noticeable difference you want in a combination style flare nut wrench. The Proto is the thick one. The Snap On ones I've seen are thick as well.
IMG_2832.jpeg
 
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cherrybomb

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With all the discussion on this site that Williams is made in Snap-On factories,and the Cat wrenches are discussed also as Snap-On is either an option for the OP? Anyone been down that road?
 

Schurkey

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1. A 12-point flare-nut wrench may (MAY!) be useful in aerospace. It's f'n worthless for automotive use.
2. Be aware of the length (leverage) the wrench provides. Cheap flare-nut wrenches tend to be very short, so you can't overstress the weakass wrenching surface.
3. I just love the "speed" open-ends.
Flare-Nut_Wrenches_01.jpg
 

Hakeem

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If you do a lot of them, you might want to get the combination open/flare nut wrenches RXSM series
Never understood the appeal. Once the flare nut is broken loose you could use an adjustable wrench to get them off. There’s no need for an extra-thick open end to protect the flare nut . At least in my experience, maybe there’s something I’m overlooking.
 

dchawk81

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Never understood the appeal. Once the flare nut is broken loose you could use an adjustable wrench to get them off. There’s no need for an extra-thick open end to protect the flare nut . At least in my experience, maybe there’s something I’m overlooking.
It would just be the convenience of using the same tool. Instead of grabbing another, just flip it around.
 

Callelle

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Depew NY
Never understood the appeal. Once the flare nut is broken loose you could use an adjustable wrench to get them off. There’s no need for an extra-thick open end to protect the flare nut . At least in my experience, maybe there’s something I’m overlooking.
I can see the possible appeal on corroded flare nut lines. Though when they're bad where I work, the flare nut is either deformed or still tight enough that you'd be using the line end anyway.
 
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