Taking the chill off a 3 car garage

[Dolfan]

OK, I titled this as taking the chill off since that really is all I want to try to do, not really heat the place to 70 in all areas.

First the space
3 bay garage, attached
23" x 30", ceilings 11"
3 9" doors, cheaply insulated

Climate - not too cold - Atlanta area

Last winter we had a good stretch of mid-20 to low 30 days and I remember it was just to cold to go out and work so I put projects off, this winter I don't want that.

Today it is a sunny 43 degree day outside and I took a few temp with a pyrometer. The doors were about 47, exterior wall facing sun 59, interior wall 59. I don't have a spare thermometer to toss into the garage for an air temp right now.

One thought I have it to use two radiant type heaters mounted from the ceiling right in the space between the bays facing down, you can see the idea here in these pictures.

The idea here I figured is it will give some eat in the general area where I do most of my work. The center bay has my mid-rise lift, the one to the lef tof that has the MaxJax.

I was thinking something like these
http://www.amazon.com/ProFusion-Heat-Ceiling-Mounted-Workshop-Halogen/dp/B002VMKCWQ/ref=pd_sbs_k_3

I know that this won't raise the temp of the entire garage space but I figure if I'm working on a car that at least it should be warmer in the area being covered with the radiant heat.

Being that I'm originall from Florida I know very little about heating, so please correct me if you think this is a bad idea.

 

[sixball]

Since heat rises, I'd think you would need a bigger heater if you are wanting to mount from above. How are the walls insulated?

Sixball

 

[Dolfan]

Since heat rises, I'd think you would need a bigger heater if you are wanting to mount from above. How are the walls insulated?

Sixball

I didn't see the house built so I'm not completely sure. I do know that the two interior walls and ceiling are typical fiberglass batting material, I'm unsure about the one exterior facing south/east and the wall with the doors facing east/north is mostly the doors. I haven't had a reason to punch a hole in these exterior walls.

I'm sure I could benefit from doing a proper job insulating the doors, especially as that is almost one complete wall.

 

[murph78]

I've got a couple of these in my 32x28 garage to take the chill off if I'm not using my wood stove.
http://www.lowes.com/pd_210641-1621...Ntt=lasko&pl=1&currentURL=/pl__0__s?Ntt=lasko

 

[dwwright]

Do you have a vent off your main furnace trunk to the garage? I had one vent put in my last house with a 3 car. Had 10' ceilings and still kept about 50 degrees on a 30 degree day. Wall mounting those heaters above where you're working should keep it comfortable enough, but depends on your level of comfort.

 

[Dolfan]

I've got a couple of these in my 32x28 garage to take the chill off if I'm not using my wood stove.
http://www.lowes.com/pd_210641-1621...Ntt=lasko&pl=1&currentURL=/pl__0__s?Ntt=lasko

Those are baseboard heaters and with all my gear stored against the walls and with cabinets I don't have space for them. Also I like to keep the floors along the sides clear for car work.

 

[Dolfan]

Do you have a vent off your main furnace trunk to the garage? I had one vent put in my last house with a 3 car. Had 10' ceilings and still kept about 50 degrees on a 30 degree day. Wall mounting those heaters above where you're working should keep it comfortable enough, but depends on your level of comfort.

I guess you just mean a normal run from the HVAC system? I had not considered that. If I did something like that I wold have to have it with a blast gate type fitting to shut it off when not needed. I'm not sure that it would work well, if the inside temp holds then it won't be putting out any air flow and the garage will be a colder zone?

 

[sixball]

I just re-read and see your in the Atlanta area, so it's not real cold, or atleast not for long. If you have 220 out there, you could get the smalller Dayton (I forget the model number) for right at 120$. You can mount it from above, and that would definetly do the job. I got one from Grainger and it was at my door in two days


Sixball

 

[Dolfan]

I just re-read and see your in the Atlanta area, so it's not real cold, or atleast not for long. If you have 220 out there, you could get the smalller Dayton (I forget the model number) for right at 120$. You can mount it from above, and that would definetly do the job. I got one from Grainger and it was at my door in two days


Sixball

Don't have 220 out in the garage, but I have run a 30A 110 circuit for my lift.

 

[MikeLawrence]

Don't have 220 out in the garage, but I have run a 30A 110 circuit for my lift.

I'm out of Knoxville (3 hours NW of you) but climate wise we're practically identical. Oddly enough what you initially posted sounds like you are on the right track to me.

You're talking 3kw of heating in a 700 sq. ft. space which is undersized don't get me wrong. (It's about half of the recommended BTU) But just glancing at what you posted it looks like what you are thinking about is a quartz/halogen/radiant type solution (heat what you point at, not the space). AFAIK with those, if you're always gonna have one pointed at you you're always going to feel warm.

Offered only as an opinion,
Michael Lawrence, LISSCO

 

[Dolfan]

I've also got a 22x13 wood working shop in my basement with no heat. I'm thinking to order one of these radiant type units, toss it up quickly in the garage to see if I think it works out. If it works I can order another for the garage and if not it would work real well in my wood working area.

 

[MikeLawrence]

I've also got a 22x13 wood working shop in my basement with no heat. I'm thinking to order one of these radiant type units, toss it up quickly in the garage to see if I think it works out. If it works I can order another for the garage and if not it would work real well in my wood working area.

Sounds like a plan. If you don't mind posting how it works out for ya down the road I'd appreciate it. I'm a little curious myself.

Michael Lawrence

 

[70redbee]

DO NOT run a heat from your house furnace! The fumes and other nasty things can be sucked back in your house that can kill you. Never ever have the two connected. A lot of people do it and get away with it,but do you want to take the chance with the family? I didn't think so! Do it right and have them seperated. Good luck with what system you decide to go with.

 

[Dolfan]

DO NOT run a heat from your house furnace! The fumes and other nasty things can be sucked back in your house that can kill you. Never ever have the two connected. A lot of people do it and get away with it,but do you want to take the chance with the family? I didn't think so! Do it right and have them seperated. Good luck with what system you decide to go with.

Yeah, I wasn't looking to try that method for other reasons, but your right.

 

[dwwright]

DO NOT run a heat from your house furnace! The fumes and other nasty things can be sucked back in your house that can kill you. Never ever have the two connected. A lot of people do it and get away with it,but do you want to take the chance with the family? I didn't think so! Do it right and have them seperated. Good luck with what system you decide to go with.

Actually it's quite common for new construction to be done that way. They just don't run an air return back from the garage.

 

[NUTTSGT]

Any vehicle you bring in during that cold spell will probably negate a small electric heater if only used when you are out there. The best thing to do is be able to keep heat in the concrete and let that heat radiate out to help over come a cold vehicle. I'd try an electric oil filled radiator. A buddy of mine uses one like this with good results.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000A33B1C/?tag=atomicindus08-20

If that doesn't work, and have availible wall space, maybe a ventless gas heater if you're close to a gas line.

 

[70redbee]

I work building houses for a living,and have for 40 years. It is dangerous and against code to run heat or ac from the house to the garage on the same unit, with or without a return in the garage. Even when the unit is off it still pulls air from the garage to the house. If in your area they are doing this, code enforcement is lacking. Check the code books and do some research. I stick with my original statement....NEVER EVER RUN HEAT TO YOUR GARAGE FROM THE HOUSE.

 

[Hit-By-Thunder]

OK, I titled this as taking the chill off since that really is all I want to try to do, not really heat the place to 70

check out Mr.Heater and look at the propane heaters.

I just bought a 30,000 to 55,000 BTU one that works perfect. It heats the garage (24X24 with 9foot 6 ceiling) in about 5 minutes. Now if you want to take the chill off, this maybe exactlt what you need. you can go bigger with a thermostat if you want The one I have is really small and can easily stored in a cabinet.

Rob/HBT

 

[spongerich]

I have a 150,000 BTU Dayton Kerosene heater that I like a lot. Not sure how easy it'll be to find one down south, but in the northeast, they go for $100-200. The biggest downside is that kerosene is a little hard to find around here. I can get it from Home Depot/Lowes for $8/gal but need to drive a bit to get it at a more reasonable cost. Mine seems to burn a little less than a gallon an hour.

Whatever you do, DO NOT put diesel in one. Mine says it'll run on kero or #1 heating oil, so I stopped at the local heating oil place. They wouldn't sell me less than 150 gallons but said that low sulfur diesel would work fine in it. My barn smelled awful for a month...

 

[Hit-By-Thunder]

here is the link

http://www.princessauto.com/all-seasons/seasonal/forced-air-heaters/forced-air-heaters/list-all

Rob/HBT

 

[sixball]

I have a 150,000 BTU Dayton Kerosene heater that I like a lot. Not sure how easy it'll be to find one down south, but in the northeast, they go for $100-200. The biggest downside is that kerosene is a little hard to find around here. I can get it from Home Depot/Lowes for $8/gal but need to drive a bit to get it at a more reasonable cost. Mine seems to burn a little less than a gallon an hour.

Whatever you do, DO NOT put diesel in one. Mine says it'll run on kero or #1 heating oil, so I stopped at the local heating oil place. They wouldn't sell me less than 150 gallons but said that low sulfur diesel would work fine in it. My barn smelled awful for a month...

See, I think it's the opposite for me. When I ran kero in mine, it reaked, but now I run Diesel in it, and can hardly smell it. I was at a friends pole barn just last night, and he had kero in his torpedo heater, and I smelled it right away. He even commented on how mine doesn't smell like his, and I told him I run diesel in mine.

Sixball

 

[sixball]

I have a 150,000 BTU Dayton Kerosene heater that I like a lot. Not sure how easy it'll be to find one down south, but in the northeast, they go for $100-200. The biggest downside is that kerosene is a little hard to find around here. I can get it from Home Depot/Lowes for $8/gal but need to drive a bit to get it at a more reasonable cost. Mine seems to burn a little less than a gallon an hour.

Whatever you do, DO NOT put diesel in one. Mine says it'll run on kero or #1 heating oil, so I stopped at the local heating oil place. They wouldn't sell me less than 150 gallons but said that low sulfur diesel would work fine in it. My barn smelled awful for a month...

I just re-read your post, and you were talking about a regular kerosene heater, not a torpedo

I'm not familiar with those, but I do know the wicks are touchy, so running diesel in those is proabaly a no no. Thats probably why it smelled so bad, the fuel wasn't burning clean.

To clarify: I run diesel in my torpedo NOT a regualr stanup kerosene heater

Sixball

 

[kbuhagiar]

I just re-read and see your in the Atlanta area, so it's not real cold, or atleast not for long. If you have 220 out there, you could get the smalller Dayton (I forget the model number) for right at 120$. You can mount it from above, and that would definetly do the job. I got one from Grainger and it was at my door in two days


Sixball

I will second this - I installed a Dayton in my 18 x 20 attached garage high up in one corner. On the occasional day when it gets too cold for comfort (for us lightweights here in the San Francisco Bay Area, that means anything under 45 degrees!) , I go out and turn on the heater and come back in ten minutes or so to find my workspace nice and comfy.

Be advised, however, that if you run an electric heater like this all day long, or forget that it is on, you will (a) be able to see the wheel in your electric meter spin at the speed of light; and (b) eventually need to take out a loan to pay the electric bill.

 

[Dolfan]

OK, just reporting back in.

I mounted the quartz heater I had shipped from Amazon last night, one thing that is not helping in this instanceis the 11" 2' ceiling. While that height is great that I've got the lifts now, it hurts as this heater if farther away from you and so it's effect isn't as great.

If I stand under the heater I feel a good amount of heat so to use one like this above a workbench even mounted at 11" I think it would be fine. But I sat on my shop seat at right in front of the front wheel of the car in that bay as if I was doing some wheel/brake work. I didn't really feel much warmth!

I don't consider this a waste as in my dedicated woodworking shop that is 22x13 and only 8" 5' ceilings this can be mounted up above the counter and pointed to my typical location at my bench and I think I'll be toasty. But it looks like I need to go to some type of forced air heating, like a Dimplex or Dayton type product?????

I just wish I could go with a 110v electric model as I've already run a 30A 110v circuit for the lifts that I could use. Just don't want the extra expense of adding a 220v circuit, the breaker panel is starting to get close to capacity I think.