proper installation of drywall tips n tricks

[Hit-By-Thunder]

ok, first of all I did a search and can't find exactly the info I need so before banishing me to the dishes and laundryroom, here/read me out

I am wanting to start the drywalling process on the ceiling of the garage. I bought 14 sheets of 4X12 (less seams). Now I just measured on the the ceiling mounted boxes for the garage door opener (3800 jackshaft) and the box hangs down from the truss cord about 1/2. So,

1) do I cut the box opening on the ground after careful measurments then install the drywall over the box?

If this is the correct way, then what about those rotozip tools that cut the box hole? If I screw the drywall to the ceiling it will crack cause the box is hanging down a 1/2". It maybe something simple that I am stressing WAY TOO MUCH over and over-thinking it.

Hopefully some of you wise drywallers/tapers have experience with this and can point me in the right direction, Thank you.

Rob/HBT

 

[Djstorm100]

measure it and then cut it on the ground. Measure twice + more times and cut once. If the hole is round then find the measure mend on two sides from the drywall edge. then divide the diameter by 2 and thats your center hole (where your drill bit guide goes).

 

[red69ss]

Get a keyhole saw to cut the holes the rotozip is not necessary for occassional use IMO. I've always been told to and have used 4 x 8 sheets on the ceiling, so I will be interested in opinions and experiences on this.
Are you planning on finishing this too? what size is the building? doing walls too?

 

[yzair]

Cut it on the ground with drywall hand saw. if it's off a little just take saw and trim @ ceiling. if you have gap just throw some drywall tape on it or buy extra large finish plate. Once you put a 12' sheet to the ceiling you don't want to take it down.

 

[IDASHO]

When installing the first (upper) course of sheet-rock on the walls, I always use sheet-rock screws threaded halfway into the studs @ 48" from the ceiling to lift the rock up onto.

Serves as a super easy and cheap helping hand.

 

[LennyTheLizard]

Don't try cutting your holes too tight. allow 1/8 - 1/4 gap around the box. Your wall plate will cover that easily. Make sure you measure from the wall or factory edge of the last piece of drywall. If you don't have a good factory edge, make sure you measure both corners of your box (might not always be square). Rotozip tools are great, but you don't want to practice on your own garage. They are a little tricky to get the hang of. If you go this route, mark where the approximate center of your box is on the drywall. Install the sheet, but don't put any screws within about 2' of the box. Put in enough screws around the perimeter to hold up the sheet 8-10 screws. Then push your rotozip tool in the center, gradually push over till you feel the edge of box (works better on metal boxes), then pull out the bit till your on outside of box and follow it around the box. It's been a long while since I've used the rotozip, but it works better when you move the tool in the same direction that the bit is turning (I Think!).

You are using 5/8" drywall on the ceiling right?

 

[Zias]

With 4x12 sheets, I hope you have a nice drywall hoist.

As many above, I cut on the floor. The rotozips are not something I mess with, especially if the boxes are already wired. Just measure out very carefully and don't be afraid to make a template if need be. I have made them out of cardboard or paperboard before for surgical placement.

Lenny's advice is good as well. Don't make your tolerances so short you are cutting things 2 and 3 times. Leave yourself a bit of room.

If you do have a good hoist, I have put lipstick or they have some marking stuff in stores, on the edges of the box and gently pushed them up to make marks on where the boxes are located. Then just cut out the lipstick transfer on the drywall.

 

[planecrazy]

Rob,

As someone who had hung thousands of sheets of drywall in my "previous life", these are the techniques we used.

Make a mark on the adjoining sheet edge, perpendicular to the electrical box. Measure from the edge of the adjoining sheet to the center of the box (to the nearest 1/2"). Write that number next to your mark. Use a lift to get that heavy ****** up the the joists and get it in place. Put half a dozen screws in the new sheet. We always nailed the **** ends. Find your marks and measure out the distance that you wrote down. Make a mark. That is the rough center of your box. Lenny gave a good description of routing out the hole so I won't re-type that except to say that routing on the outside of the electrical box is done in a counterclockwise rotation. Once all your holes are cut, screw the rest of the sheet down. 4 screws in the field along each joist is plenty. You want the screw heads slightly recessed in the sheet but DON'T BREAK THE PAPER. If you break the paper, that screw is holding nothing. You won't over stress the drywall at all by bending it around the electrical box. The roto-zip works great for cutting boxes and is easy to master. Even if you get a little crazy with it, mud and tape can fix a multitude of sins.

If you don't have a roto-zip already, I would probably just use a keyhole saw to cut the holes unless I had more than 4 to cut. Then I'd use that as an excuse to buy a new tool.

Have fun!

Cheers,
Phil

 

[jimp]

I use the rotozip, it's great.

It is not a great skill, but is does take some experience. Try one while on the ground or if you only have one or two boxes or have to buy a rotozip, cut by hand as outlined in the posts above. More than that it will be worth the expense and effort to learn.

Measure to one side of the box, mid point and mark the dry wall just outside the box. Hoist the dry wall, screw one edge and make sure the drywall is up againt the box (not to tight or it will break before you finish the cut, just make contact). Insert the bit where you marked and move toward the box once you hit the box move counterclockwise around the box, wear a hat. The bit should be about 3/16" - 1/4" deeper than the drywall.

You should never get inside the box, but if it is hot, I would open the breaker before starting the cut just in case.

 

[MrMark]

rotozip, you have received the right advice. Trying to cut holes on the ground would lead to disaster. Except you should plunge in INSIDE the box, then go outward to the inside edge of the box, find that edge lightly, hop the bit over the box and then cut around the outside, counterclockwise.

 

[danski0224]

I tried measuring out for box cutouts on "the bench".

It didn't work out very well.

Errors are compounded when the floor/ceiling or sheet is off just a little.

I marked out the box location on the sheet, stood it in place, put 2 screws in to hold it, then cut out with a Rotozip. I did not know about the CCW direction. Maybe the holes would have come out a little better.

I did cut inside the box first to find the edge.

The ceiling would be a PITA. I would probably hire a pro to do it.

 

[rasit]

Good measurements and accurate transfer of them to the sheet on the ground is the way I always did it. By the time you get that bad boy up to the joists you don't want to have to take it back down, so if you were off a little, go ahead and hang it as others here have suggested and make the adjustments. Don't worry about being perect, the taper will get it.........

 

[T1320T]

I always mark mine on the ground too. Be very accurate w your measurements & tranfers. Also, if you're just using a cordless drill, you can buy special phillips drywall bits that will help set the screw at the correct depth so you don't break the paper.

Oh yeah.... The finish product is going to really depend on how good or bad of a job you do installing the drywall. No pressure. Take your time & it'll turn out good.

 

[mdoolittle]

Use these.........http://www.blindmark.com/ Once again, a very simple money making idea that I did not think of first.
I have used the Blind Mark kit and the Center Mark kit. HUGE timesavers.

 

[Mattlt]

Kind of unrelated to the topic at hand, but I'll mention it anyway.

Don't be tempted to use small pieces around doors and windows - cut the openings out of a full sheet. The joints in these small pieces are where it will crack.

I learned this the hard way. Not the place to be cutting the budget on the project.

 

[Nighttrain]

I was able to find a sheetrock bit for my Dremel tool. Same as the rotozip. Basically a cutting drill bit with a pilot type tip that does not cut.

Much better than trying to cut the sheet rock on the ground. It does get dusty though but hey sheetrock work is a dust pain in the ****.

 

[Rickster55]

Depending on the number of boxes you have another way would be to pick up some "old work" boxes and cutting them in AFTER you hang the drywall.

 

[OccupantRJ]

Depending on the number of boxes you have another way would be to pick up some "old work" boxes and cutting them in AFTER you hang the drywall.

I have done that myself quite a few times, by poking a hole in the location I wanted the box, hanging the sheet of plywood or drywall, while poking the wire through, then cutting out for the box by tracing around it. Hell of a lot easier than measuring, and measuring is a major part of my job. As i have gotten older, I finally learned to quit beating myself up.

 

[csp]

I'm finishing up my drywall install and found it easier to measure and cut, then install the sheet. I used my Rotozip on a couple of holes (I have 14 outlet boxes in the ceiling). One was perfect and the other two I did will require some taping and mudding.

It's difficult to 'feel' the box perimeter cutting upside down with drywall dust coming down on you. If you're using plastic boxes the bit can also cut through them instead of around them, so they aren't that great of a guide. I've had no problems cutting for wall outlets as you have more control when you're not doing it upside down.

So glad I'm almost done hanging rock......

Someone also mentioned using screws 48" down from the ceiling to support wall pieces as you hang them. I used a 2x4 screwed to the wall as a ledger to support the upper wall pieces since I have had no help. I can see damaging the edge if you use screws as you rarely hoist it up there in the perfect spot, so moving the sheet would tear it up on the screws.

 

[PhantomEB]

I always thought it was nice to have the wires hidden but lately I been thinkin conduit for down the road, better accessibility.

One thing I learned from my dads contraption of a garage, is hang the ceiling panels first as the wall panels support the perimeter of the ceiling's boards. Also I been thinking of running 2" strips of 1/4" perpendicular to the rafters just to have more areas to screw to.

 

[2level]

I also used the dremel tool. They make a depth stop collar attachment for it. Worked great. For most of the ceiling panels I used the measure twice/cut once method (didn't really measure twice, but made sure the measuring was accurate). Lean the panels against a wall for layout and cutting.
If you have a 4" hole saw, it's a faster way to cut out the round boxes.
Since it is a garage, think about using drywall adhesive on the ceiling panels. The wall panels don't require much measuring before using a rotozip or dremel. If the receptacles and switches are around 4ft high you can see exactly where to plunge the cutter next to the box.

 

[MrMark]

You are supposed to use "guide point" rotozip bits, which have no cutting edge on the very end. These guide points allow you, when you set the depth correctly, to not cut into the metal or plastic box when you "find the edge and hop over."

With any router you go CCW when the guide (bearing surface) is to the left of the machine and CW when the guide is to the right. So if you were cutting around the inside of the box you would go CW. This will come into play when cutting out a window, for example. Sheetrock right over the window and cut it out with the router.

This is also the best and fastest and most accurate way to cut out plywood or osb window openings after sheathing a house. It's the way I've learned to do it with a flush cutter. It beats the sawzall.

 

[Hit-By-Thunder]

That is why I asked, great answers everyone, thank you for replying

I am using 1/2 drywall for the ceiling 4x12 cause the trusses are 16" centers, not 24. I am buying a drywall lift. PA is banging them out for $149.99 rental is 34/day

Dremel tool!!!!! I have 2 of them, sweet, never thought of that woohooo

I will be the labourer, foreman, contractor, taper, mudder, lift operator, screwer lol I am doing all the garage myself with only the concrete work being done by pros. The garage pictures are in (Thunder's Palace Thread)

again, thanks to all who posted the tips, ideas and tricks. This is my first drywall job, but I do feel quite confident as I am very handy.

 

[Rosco]

I am currently putting up drywall in my bonus room over the garage. I bought the book mentioned here somewhere on drywall and it really helped. Sounds like you are on your way, the only thing I would add is to use some heavy duty contractor glue on the cieling pieces. Really helps to hold the drywall from sagging in between fasteners, especially 1/2". I used the glue on my slopes (cieling will be T&G wood) due to also having heavy blown in cellulose insulation. It does not take much to hold it.