One of my new garage doors has 7 inches of additional lift from the standard track. It's not much, but the door goes straight up for 7" before it starts back. My question is will a standard garage door opener work for this door. I've seen some hi lift doors that almost go straight up and they use an opener that mounts on the torsion tube. I was hoping to avoid this additional expense.
opener for hi lift door
- Thread starter Kapt
- Start date
Use a regular opener. 7" is not a lot of lift, so it shouldn't affect the operation. I have about 30" of lift and I have standard operators. They work fine. A little jumpy when started, but way cheaper than 2 jackshaft openers.
Door Doctor
Member
- Joined
- Jul 25, 2007
- Messages
- 9
Well you can get away with a standard draw bar operner if it's installed properly and of course you have quality doors, but I wouldn't recomend it.
bmwpower Quote: I have about 30" of lift and I have standard operators. They work fine.
What he failed to mention is that he has dummy panels so he can use a standard draw bar opener.
Best option for the the long haul is the Liftmaster 3800 jackshaft opener, they are very quit and have many cool features.
Good luck.
bmwpower Quote: I have about 30" of lift and I have standard operators. They work fine.
What he failed to mention is that he has dummy panels so he can use a standard draw bar opener.
Best option for the the long haul is the Liftmaster 3800 jackshaft opener, they are very quit and have many cool features.
Good luck.
Last edited:
Right. Forgot about the extra panel...oops. I guess I don't spend enough time in the attached garage I guess
I just remeasured and it's something like 18" of lift from the top of the top panel.
I don't see why 7" would be a problem.
So why don't you recommend it?
Door Doctor
Member
- Joined
- Jul 25, 2007
- Messages
- 9
Right. Forgot about the extra panel...oops. I guess I don't spend enough time in the attached garage I guess
I just remeasured and it's something like 18" of lift from the top of the top panel.
I don't see why 7" would be a problem.
So why don't you recommend it?
If the top wheels are in the vertical part of the track below the radius then the door has no choice but to go straight up, so when a draw bar opener starts to run it's motion is to pull back on the door instead of up. Depending on how wide the and strong the door is this puts major stress on the center of the top panel. Over time this will tear up the top panel. Ideally the top wheels should be 3 to 4 inches into the radius above the vertical track so the door will strart to go back with the opener.
7" of high lift can be done as long as the "j" arm is almost vertical when the door is fully closed so that when the opener starts to open it's not pulling back on the top panel as hard, if the "J" arm has any backward angle to it then it will pull back instead of up.
This is why a jackshaft opener is a better choice since it lifts the door from the bottom panel rather than from the top of the door, no stress on the top panel.
nova65ss
Well-known member
7" is nothing to even worry about, more than 21" or so would need a dummy section. Just make sure there is a strut on the top section and you will be fine.
Hey Dean what is your last name? I know it's an odd question but I knew a Dean in the door business years ago.
Hey Dean what is your last name? I know it's an odd question but I knew a Dean in the door business years ago.
My door is 9' wide with a short strut that runs vertically down the middle of the top panel. The instructions called for a horizontal strut that runs the width of the door for the larger doors. Do you think this smaller strut is adequate? My door is a metal 2" insulated Clopay.
nova65ss
Well-known member
The vertical operator bracket is good but any door with an opener should have a horizontal strut on the top section to keep it from buckling. Even if it doesn't have high lift I would suggest putting a strut on the top section.