Current cost/yard for concrete in your area?

[bmwpower]

Trying to do some estimating for a driveway.

What's the cost in your area? I seem to remember it being around $100/yard delivered.

Just ran the numbers, I need 106 yards @ 6" or 71 yards @ 4" for the whole driveway...

Calculator:
http://tcapps.solarvelocity.com/calculator.asp

 

[kutza]

Just pricd this out 8/30/07, In Yorktown VA, 23692
4000 PSI, @ $91.50
4000 PSI Fiber-Crete @97.50

 

[dxdexter]

Trying to do some estimating for a driveway.

What's the cost in your area? I seem to remember it being around $100/yard delivered.

Just ran the numbers, I need 106 yards @ 6" or 71 yards @ 4" for the whole driveway...

Calculator:
http://tcapps.solarvelocity.com/calculator.asp

The scary part is you can expect to double the cost with grading, forming, placing and finishing. We also have similar costs for concrete here in Canada. We generally specify 5000psi air entrained concrete for driveways and walks.

 

[OldCarGuy]

You should be able to negotiate a better price per yard with the purchase of a 100 yards. In my area of Ohio, there’s a fair amount of competition, it’d be around $85.00 per yard 4,500 PSI air entrained.

 

[Junkman]

In NJ with the harsh winters, I would use asphalt instead of concrete. You can get a very good quality 2" base coat driveway that will last for many years if you take care of it, and when you have the extra money, have the top coat laid. This is what I did with my driveway.... It is about 2000' x 10' wide.

 

[327-365hp]

I just paid $80 per yard here in central Mass. That was my concrete guys price. If I bought it myself it would have been $100.

 

[RacerX]

Last I checked a short time ago in Houston, Tx the price is $78 / yd

My guy's price is $6 /sq ft including concrete - forms, rebar, mesh, all.

 

[bmwpower]

In NJ with the harsh winters, I would use asphalt instead of concrete. You can get a very good quality 2" base coat driveway that will last for many years if you take care of it, and when you have the extra money, have the top coat laid. This is what I did with my driveway.... It is about 2000' x 10' wide.

I thought about that, but I'm not sure I want to coat the thing every 1-2 years. I have a lot of sqft. Plus, I was thinking of doing the concrete in sections...and by myself (with help) = less labor cost.

 

[Junkman]

I had a base coat put down and never coated it once. The reason I mentioned "maintenance" was that you need to treat it with respect. You can't park cars on it and forget them. You can't jack your car up on it. It requires some common sense if you expect it to last. You also have to "back up" the edges and make sure that they are solid. If you allow grass to get started in a crack, it will get worse. If a hole develops, you have to fix it before it gets big, or it will only get worse. In my driveway, it had 24" of good gravel fill over the ground. The top soil was removed prior to putting down the gravel. About 5 years after doing the base coat, I noticed a large bulge in the pavement. When they dug it out, there was a boulder that was at least 28" in diameter. It had come up from below as a result of the freeze thaw freeze cycle that we have in New England. Around here, rocks grow in the lawn ever winter like potatoes. This is why I don't like concrete for cold climates. It has a tendency to crack, unlike asphalt which has a lot of "give" to it. The important thing is to find a honest contractor that will do a good job. That is difficult in the asphalt business since it is often filled with schemers that take your money and leave you with what looks good, but falls apart in a few years. A good asphalt driveway isn't cheaper than concrete if done properly, but has a lot of benefits over concrete. It is a lot easier to repair a asphalt driveway than it is to replace a concrete section.
PS..... I have had my driveway sealed once since the top coat was installed. I have a friend that has a 40 year old parking lot that has been sealed every 3 years since new, and it is as good today as the day it was installed.

 

[bmwpower]

Good info, Junk. But I can't DIY asphalt. I thought I'd give it a go with concrete.

Why do you think the harsh winter will have an affect? Because of the salt from the road?

 

[carguy123]

Concrete is $2.30 - $2.50 a square foot here for 4" thick flatwork like a driveway. That includes all the prep and all the rebar.

 

[OldCarGuy]

Been there done that,, I would never consider asphalt as a paving surface. Neither for my home nor rental properties, residential or industrial. Years ago I went that route to save a few dollars. But I quickly learned in the long run it cost me more aggravation and money than it was worth. I ended up replacing that asphalt within seven years. The replacement concrete looks very acceptable after 30 years use..

Parking vehicles, particularly close to the edges spells disaster. You cannot use a bicycle stand let alone a motor cycle. Don’t even think about any heavy vehicles or maneuvering dulies or two axle trailers. And with our drastic climate changes, and even with a proper base and drainage, seal coating every two years is a necessity to receive any kind of life expectancy. Then on hot days there’s always tracking into house.

No doubt concrete will crack. However with the proper base and drainage, life expectancy of concrete far out weights any minor savings over asphalt...

 

[bluesman2a]

$95 a yard for air entrained 4500 psi... in atlanta, ga.

 

[Charles (in GA)]

$95 a yard for air entrained 4500 psi... in atlanta, ga.

Thats cheap, many plants around Atlanta are $100 (and higher) a yard for "3000 commercial". A guy at work just got it for $85 a yard by paying for all of his estimated use in advance for a poured basement and everything on a new house construction.

Charles

 

[bluesman2a]

Thats cheap, many plants around Atlanta are $100 (and higher) a yard for "3000 commercial". A guy at work just got it for $85 a yard by paying for all of his estimated use in advance for a poured basement and everything on a new house construction.

That was from ReadyMix out of Lawrenceville, based on 48 yards. I also had to buy 2.5" line-pump mix for my poured wall, it came in at $112 per yard. One thing I have heard locally, they are hurting for business, so I pushed them pretty hard on price. Since it was part of my contractor debacle, I gave the guy a choice of cash today at my price, or you can chase my loser-*** contractor. Needless to say, he came to pick up the check the same day.

 

[shocksystems]

Things must be very different in Ohio than they are here in New England. In my area of MA concrete driveways are almost unheard of. It is not for lack of money or unwillingness to pay. The new construction around here spare no expense (and charge accordingly). Over the years the few concrete driveways I have encountered end up looking terrible. I am with Junk on this one, at least in New England.

Cheers!

Jim

 

[dxdexter]

I am in Eastern Canada and our winters and freeze/thaw conditions are similar if not worse than New England and I would always recomend concrete over asphalt, but I work in the industry, so maybe my view is slanted.

The main reason many concrete driveways look terrible is that they are more often than not poorly executed. When constructed properly concrete will last many many years longer than asphalt with less maintenance.

The most common problems are:

• Improper base preparation (gravel thickness, compaction)
• Use of non-air entrained concrete in areas with freeze/thaw. It should be air entrained (5% to 8%) and tested, in the plastic state, to verify that air is actually in the mix.
• Use of low strength concretes (3000psi). The Canadian Standards recommend at least 32Mpa (4700psi) for exterior use in presence of freeze/thaw and deicing chemicals.
• High water to cementitious materials ratio (w/cm). In laymans terms "wet" or "high slump" concretes which results in low strength and high rates of shirkage resulting in cracking and poor durability.
• To much working of the surface while finishing. Concrete should be straight edged, floated and broomed with as little manipulation as possible. Overworking and/or addition of water to finish surface will result in a less durable product.
• Not saw cutting at proper spacing ASAP (24hrs or less) to at least 1/4 the slab depth.
• Improper moist curing (seven days recomended)
• Not Filling joints with proper joint filler and maintaining which allows moisture to sit in joints and freeze resulting damage in the joint area.

Although all of the above are important the one that will show up as a major failure of the product is the use of non-air entrained concretes. The surface can spall or delaminate in just one season with non-air entrained mixes.

Ill-informed DIY'ers ,or contractors who think all there is to placing concrete is to place it between some forms and run a 2x4 straight edge across to level it, give the whole industry a bad name.

No disrespect intended for DIY'ers. Just be aware of the potential problems that can result when concretes are placed improperly.

 

[Deltarat]

$100 in Ms.

 

[Falcon05Dad]

Not a driveway but to give you a comparison on material and labor:

White County, TN - approx halfway between Nashville and Knoxville

42'x32' pad - 5 inches thick

$76/yd - 4000 psi

My finisher charged $.65 sq. ft. and did a fantastic job.

My framer charged $350 to form up the doorways (block foundation) and a utility slab, level the stone, lay the plastic, put down rebar grid, and install the grade stakes. Acting as my own GC, I purchased all materials.

 

[Mr. Welsh]

Good info, Junk. But I can't DIY asphalt. I thought I'd give it a go with concrete.

Do you have friends who can supply the tools, equipment, labor, and knowledge?

 

[bmwpower]

Do you have friends who can supply the tools, equipment, labor, and knowledge?

My father has some of the tools. I can rent the rest.

Labor? Well, not many friends around here lately so I will be doing it solo+1

Knowledge? That's where you guys come in.

 

[brad d]

looks like its around 129$ in winnipeg

 

[dxdexter]

My father has some of the tools. I can rent the rest.

Labor? Well, not many friends around here lately so I will be doing it solo+1

Knowledge? That's where you guys come in.

I would suggest the following tools be on hand :

• Magnesium Hand Floats (Not Steel Trowels)
• Edging Tool
• straight edge (2x4 with handles)
• (optional) Concrete roller "jitterbug"
• 36" or 48" magnesium bull float and long handle
• Broom with long handle (purpose built brooms are available)
• Hand held, gas powered, wet saw c/w diamond blade

All of these tools should be able to be rented.

If its a large placement then you should have more help (4 or 5 would be great). Otherwise your trying to do all the jobs : placing, straight edging, floating, edging, and brooming. As I'm sure you know, concrete is a perishable product and will not wait long before it starts to set. Concrete with no "set retarder" should be placed within 2 hours of being batched and even sooner on very hot days.

 

[v8garage]

It was $75.00 per yard in central Texas two months ago when I poured 2
slabs. If you didnt buy at least 5 yards there was a $200.00 "delivery fee".
It was cheaper to buy 5 or 6 yards than 4. As much concrete as you are going to need for your driveway they should give you a good price.

 

[medic583]

looks like its around 129$ in winnipeg

Nice... about 4 hours away from ya... and was told it was going to be $160/meter here...

 

[dxdexter]

Nice... about 4 hours away from ya... and was told it was going to be $160/meter here...

Medic,
I'm not sure if Brad was quoting cubic yards or cubic meters. Ready mix suppliers will quote either way . Don't forget a cubic meter is 30% more volume, therefore would be 30% more cost.

 

[mleichtle]

Here its right around $100 yard + $75 delivery if you get less than 5 yards. Its my understanding that 5+ yards is just too much for one guy to handle. Of course I have ZERO expierience with the stuff, this is just what I heard.

I've been think of doing the same thing. Whats your plan for connecting the sections? My fear is the slabs shifting and creating one of those snow shovel stoppers that are all over my sidewalk.

 

[bmwpower]

Here its right around $100 yard + $75 delivery if you get less than 5 yards. Its my understanding that 5+ yards is just too much for one guy to handle. Of course I have ZERO expierience with the stuff, this is just what I heard.

I've been think of doing the same thing. Whats your plan for connecting the sections? My fear is the slabs shifting and creating one of those snow shovel stoppers that are all over my sidewalk.

Im thinking of placing rebar in the slab when I pour and let it stick outside the slab a good 2-3 feet. Then, cover the rebar up with stone until its time to do the next slab so as to not make one of those tire piercers in my driveway. Not sure if this would cause enough shear on the remainder of the slab to make it crack.

The other option is to drill holes for the rebar after the slab is done, insert epoxy, insert rod and then pour the next slab, repeating the process. Not quite as easy as above.

 

[brad d]

Medic,
I'm not sure if Brad was quoting cubic yards or cubic meters. Ready mix suppliers will quote either way . Don't forget a cubic meter is 30% more volume, therefore would be 30% more cost.

it was 175-205 a cubic meter, out side the city its cheaper... even though the drive for them is longer

 

[dxdexter]

Im thinking of placing rebar in the slab when I pour and let it stick outside the slab a good 2-3 feet. Then, cover the rebar up with stone until its time to do the next slab so as to not make one of those tire piercers in my driveway. Not sure if this would cause enough shear on the remainder of the slab to make it crack.

The other option is to drill holes for the rebar after the slab is done, insert epoxy, insert rod and then pour the next slab, repeating the process. Not quite as easy as above.

If you plan on mechanically connecting concrete placed at different times then I would suggest a keyway be cast at mid depth. If you choose bars then make them smooth epoxy bars and not regular deformed bars. The intent of this steel should not be to lock the slabs together longitudinally, but to carry shear loads across the joint while still allowing longitudinal movement between panels. The transverse (width ways) steel between panels can be deformed epoxy bars.

Remember that if you use non protected bars they will rust and spall the concrete as salt and moisture penetrate the joint.

Another consideration when not placing the concrete in one placement, is coloration differences between panels, especially when placed months apart.

 

[jimvannoy]

I paid $65.00 a yard when I did my shop but that was a few years ago. Poured a 30x40 slab. I had 1 friend helping me. Spread it out with shovels and rakes, used a long 2x4 with one of us on each end to do the initial smoothing out, then used a big rented float on it.

 

[shocksystems]

BMW Power:

I have been thinking about your project and this thread. If I were to summarize the thoughts I would do so this way.

As people indicate and I reluctantly admit concrete is a more durable, longer lasting, hard surface for your driveway. However this comes at both a considerable price for the material and an increasing need to have a perfectly prepared surface to avoid problems down the road because it is not flexible. Asphalt is more flexible but also less durable and more prone to piercing and punctures.

One of the compelling reasons you described for doing the driveway in concrete is because you can do a piece at a time yourself, therefore making the project more affordable. However further input in the thread indicates that this both makes the work a bit more complicated and the potential for problems increases doing it in small quantities versus doing it as 1 pour. In addition the cost of concrete in smaller quantities seems to be accompanied with higher costs, in particular delivery charges. I am assuming you do not have significant experience doing this kind of concrete work (I know I don't) and I think that added onto everything else spells the potential for expensive disappointment. Because of the nature of concrete you cannot "redo it" without tearing it up and repurchasing the product.

Have you considered doing concrete pavers instead?

The funniest thing of all is that your post is about the cost of concrete and a bunch of us, me included, can't help but express our opinion about the project in general. I love this board.

Cheers!

Jim

 

[bmwpower]

If you plan on mechanically connecting concrete placed at different times then I would suggest a keyway be cast at mid depth. If you choose bars then make them smooth epoxy bars and not regular deformed bars. The intent of this steel should not be to lock the slabs together longitudinally, but to carry shear loads across the joint while still allowing longitudinal movement between panels. The transverse (width ways) steel between panels can be deformed epoxy bars.

Remember that if you use non protected bars they will rust and spall the concrete as salt and moisture penetrate the joint.

Another consideration when not placing the concrete in one placement, is coloration differences between panels, especially when placed months apart.

I need some definitions here. I'm not familiar with the stuff you're talking about.

Keyway?
Smooth epoxy bars?
Deformed epoxy bars?

I thought about the color differences. Shouldn't the pours be of a similar color if (1) the pour is done at the same time of the year, (2) the pour is from the same supplier and (3) if the pour is of the same strength?

 

[bmwpower]

I view threads like conversations... they usually never stay on track and that's okay with me.

Re: pavers.... I thought about it, but I believe (I could be wrong) it would be a lot more $$$. Not sure I could jack a car up on those things either.

The big reason I've even thought about doing the driveway in concrete is because I could do it myself. I've seen concrete work done before and always thought I could do it myself, but never actually gave it a shot.

If I did it myself and screwed it up...oh well. At least I did it myself and had no one else to blame. If I paid someone else to do it and they screwed it up, I'd be pissed.

Thanks for the summary!

BMW Power:

I have been thinking about your project and this thread. If I were to summarize the thoughts I would do so this way.

As people indicate and I reluctantly admit concrete is a more durable, longer lasting, hard surface for your driveway. However this comes at both a considerable price for the material and an increasing need to have a perfectly prepared surface to avoid problems down the road because it is not flexible. Asphalt is more flexible but also less durable and more prone to piercing and punctures.

One of the compelling reasons you described for doing the driveway in concrete is because you can do a piece at a time yourself, therefore making the project more affordable. However further input in the thread indicates that this both makes the work a bit more complicated and the potential for problems increases doing it in small quantities versus doing it as 1 pour. In addition the cost of concrete in smaller quantities seems to be accompanied with higher costs, in particular delivery charges. I am assuming you do not have significant experience doing this kind of concrete work (I know I don't) and I think that added onto everything else spells the potential for expensive disappointment. Because of the nature of concrete you cannot "redo it" without tearing it up and repurchasing the product.

Have you considered doing concrete pavers instead?

The funniest thing of all is that your post is about the cost of concrete and a bunch of us, me included, can't help but express our opinion about the project in general. I love this board.

Cheers!

Jim

 

[Junkman]

A key-way is where you put a 2" x 4" into the form on the edge, so it creates a depression when removed. This will lock the next segment of the pour to the original. I don't like key-ways for concrete that has to have some movement so it doesn't crack. Usually a key-way is put into a footing, and then when the wall is poured, the wall and footing are "keyed" together.

Smooth epoxy bars are steel bars that are treated with an epoxy covering to keep the steel from rusting. They are usually a vomit green color. The same goes for the "deformed" bars, except that the "deformed" bars have irregularties in them to help them to hold tight to the concrete. Another term that you might be more familiar with for deformed bars is "rebar".

Here is a good reference sight......