Finally got bit by the 5.4 triton

[srmofo]

Is there any tool thats better than another to get the spark plugs out.

If it makes a difference, its the drivers rear plug so clearance is going to be somewhat of an issue.

Everyone makes them, but what makes them different?

Edit- Im going to post this at the top because people keep missing it. Im familiar with the engine and the process, I just havent broke one yet, Some people call me lucky, but the truth is, Im just that good

I should of been more specific. Ive done many many of these.i just now broke my first one.

Are all the tools the same?i haven't looked at them that close because I've escaped breaking them until now.

I always get truck to operating temp, run a decarbonization. Pull the cop. Let cool some. Crack plugs loose. Fill with penetrating. Work them a little at time. Patience is the key. I was in ahurry today

Either way it sounds like everyone uses the lisle tool and has no complaints so Ill pick it up tomorrow.
The truth is, other than plug seperation issue, these are some of the easier plugs to do and at 2.8 hours labor plus the decarb they're easy to make money on. On top of everything else we tell the customer it will take at least a day or 2 and I can work on it between other jobs, waiting on parts, or once Im caught up. And no one can ***** about how long it takes because they know the outcome if you rush the job.

 

[jeffk14]

Is it a 2004-2008 3-valve engine? If so, you'll need a 9/16", 3/8" drive swivel deep spark plug socket. Advance Auto carries 'em as well as a few other places.

You're gonna also need the Lisle 65600 broken spark plug removal kit. You will break a few off in the head, so get the kit ahead of time.

Also, for the rear plug on the passenger side, go ahead and remove the ECM and bracket to make access easier.

When reassembling, use hi-temp nickle-based never-seize to prevent breakage in the future.

 

[tonydanzah]

a 3/8 impact may also prevent breaks

 

[mikevango]

Spray your favorite penetrating oil on them in advance.

 

[rayzor32]

autolite makes a 1 piece plug that you should check out when installing. its a pain good luck

 

[Hiball]

Curious? How many Miles?

 

[Chris Adams]

Read up on it in the F150 trucks forum first. We fought that battle back in 2004, back when everyone said we were crazy.

Quick tips, plan on having the truck down a day, minimum.
Oil it the day before, kroll or whatever.
Pull the computer back out of the way.

You may or may not break the plug shell if you oil it and let it sit at least overnight.


Or why I'm so glad I bought the 4.6.

 

[jeffk14]

a 3/8 impact may also prevent breaks

I had a Ford Tech tell me the same thing AFTER I did mine but the impact recommendation is not in any of the three revisions of the TSB addressing the breakage issue.

If I end up doing another one, I'll probably try the impact trick. Even after reading and following the TSB, I broke 5 out of 8 off.

 

[Wakefield]

Kroil? Spray it again when just barely loose?(they could begin to turn out a little bit and then bind up and then break the end off--there was a big long thread here about these spark plugs a couple months ago-- ---search "spark plugs" and it should be on about page 2 or 3 of the results that appear-- something like"$##%&%Ford!".

 

[jay50]

Is it a 2004-2008 3-valve engine? If so, you'll need a 9/16", 3/8" drive swivel deep spark plug socket. Advance Auto carries 'em as well as a few other places.

You're gonna also need the Lisle 65600 broken spark plug removal kit. You will break a few off in the head, so get the kit ahead of time.

Also, for the rear plug on the passenger side, go ahead and remove the cab to make access easier.

When reassembling, use hi-temp nickle-based never-seize to prevent breakage in the future.

fixed it for you

 

[jeffk14]

Kroil? Spray it again when just barely loose?(they could begin to turn out a little bit and then bind up and then break the end off--there was a big long thread here about these spark plugs a couple months ago--

Here ya go.
http://garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=77420
The Kroil needs to have time to work down past the threads to the smooth shank below. Those are my plugs in the pic in post #28 of the linked thread. The smooth shank or "barrel" is what binds up in the head and breaks off.

 

[HookWorse]

I'm pullin' for ya. Last one I did I soaked, turned a little, went back and forth, careful as could be, and still broke 4 of the 8. Luckily, they were the easier ones to get the removal tool on.

As for the tool itself, not sure any work better than any others.


Good luck!

 

[kar650]

Also the night before get engine good and hot and run top engine cleaner through it.
Helps clen the bottom of the plug

 

[srmofo]

I should of been more specific. Ive done many many of these.i just now broke my first one.

Are all the tools the same?i haven't looked at them that close because I've escaped breaking them until now.

I always get truck to operating temp, run a decarbonization. Pull the cop. Let cool some. Crack plugs loose. Fill with penetrating. Work them a little at time. Patience is the key. I was in ahurry today

 

[Moose-LandTran]

a 3/8 impact may also prevent breaks

I always get the "You're an idiot" look when i say that about siezed spark/glow plugs. Sometimes i prove myself right and get "Z0MG YOU'RE AMAZING!" look afterwards.

(Sometimes i still get the "You're an idiot look" but it was going to break either way.)

 

[jeffk14]

I should of been more specific. Ive done many many of these.i just now broke my first one.

Are all the tools the same?i haven't looked at them that close because I've escaped breaking them until now.

I always get truck to operating temp, run a decarbonization. Pull the cop. Let cool some. Crack plugs loose. Fill with penetrating. Work them a little at time. Patience is the key. I was in ahurry today

I can tell you that the Lisle 65600 tool kit does work, is only about $62 off of Amazon and it will fit on the back driver's side plug. That was one of the ones that I broke.

 

[Garys Garage]

We clean the injectors first. Top engine or Seafoam may work. 2 of the last 3 sets we did, we broke no plugs off.

 

[RbrtAWhyt]

http://www.denlorstools.com/home/dt..._39100_ford_spark_plug_extractor_special.html

 

[Bran Diezel]

Here ya go.
http://garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=77420
The Kroil needs to have time to work down past the threads to the smooth shank below. Those are my plugs in the pic in post #28 of the linked thread. The smooth shank or "barrel" is what binds up in the head and breaks off.

thanks for quoting my thread lol.

just curious to the guys recommending impacts, um... how the hell do you get an impact gun on 5 of the 8 plugs? pull the motor?

to answer the original posters question. the lisle is best but you must make sure the porcelin is broke off flush. otherwise you prob need to get the mac get that lets you extract the porcelin with adhesive.

 

[MrMark]

I should of been more specific. Ive done many many of these.i just now broke my first one.

Are all the tools the same?i haven't looked at them that close because I've escaped breaking them until now.

I always get truck to operating temp, run a decarbonization. Pull the cop. Let cool some. Crack plugs loose. Fill with penetrating. Work them a little at time. Patience is the key. I was in ahurry today

srmofo, how do you do the decarbonization? What is "pull the cop"?

 

[Moose-LandTran]

srmofo, how do you do the decarbonization? What is "pull the cop"?

COP = Coil On Plug. The coil pack.

 

[GeorgiaHybrid]

srmofo, how do you do the decarbonization? What is "pull the cop"?

"COP" stands for "Coil On Plug". Each plug has its own coil on these engines that bolts down to the intake and directly attaches to the plug.

Edit: Should not have taken the time to pour another glass.....Moose beat me to it.

 

[jay50]

Local ford dealer screwed one up big time.
They let some of the metal from a plug get into the cylinder.

Trashed the engine and had to put in another.

 

[srmofo]

srmofo, how do you do the decarbonization? What is "pull the cop"?

We use performa chemicals at our shop and they work great, better than any wynns products or store bought stuff that I have used.

http://www.performalubricants.com/catalog/product_info.php?manufacturers_id=21&products_id=141

#7 is run through a misting sprayer and it decarbons the throttle body,intake, and cylinders.
#9 and #3 are also run through it. Cleans everything up real nice. Ill try to post some pics of the clean plugs I pulled.


Pull the Coil On Plug, I get so used to writing vehicles up I use the acronyms

 

[MrMark]

COP = Coil On Plug. The coil pack.

ah, the dreaded acronyms. I thought he meant "top" like he pulled the top off of something under the hood.


edit: Thanks srmofo!

 

[MrMark]

We use performa chemicals at our shop and they work great, better than any wynns products or store bought stuff that I have used.

http://www.performalubricants.com/catalog/product_info.php?manufacturers_id=21&products_id=141

#7 is run through a misting sprayer and it decarbons the throttle body,intake, and cylinders.
#9 and #3 are also run through it. Cleans everything up real nice. Ill try to post some pics of the clean plugs I pulled.


Pull the Coil On Plug, I get so used to writing vehicles up I use the acronyms

So you just open up the ducting like you were cleaning the throttle body and spray with the engine running? On my MB the throttle body is in the back and there is no good way to do this.

 

[srmofo]

The porclein is still intact. And I left it soaking overnight. Hopefully I can just pull it out with pliers in the morning. It turned several revolutions before it twisted loose. I knew I should but I was really hoping to avoid going in on tomorrow, oh well.

 

[MrMark]

Local ford dealer screwed one up big time.
They let some of the metal from a plug get into the cylinder.

Trashed the engine and had to put in another.

Yeah, I was wondering how to you capture the debris that is generated? Or do you just run a vacuum with a small tube down in there?

 

[srmofo]

So you just open up the ducting like you were cleaning the throttle body and spray with the engine running? On my MB the throttle body is in the back and there is no good way to do this.

yup, and some engines can be a real pain and others are cake. MAFs also pose a problem. I avoid spraying upstream of the sensor at all costs but Im sure theres a few techs that could care less.
It really almost turns into a fog and is carried through the intake . Sometimes you can get a small puddle or 2 if there are resonant chambers in the intake

 

[Moose-LandTran]

Yeah, I was wondering how to you capture the debris that is generated? Or do you just run a vacuum with a small tube down in there?

I remember Caper (?) saying you set that cylinder piston to BDC then squirt shaving foam in there (somehow..) and once you're done turn the engine over by hand and it pushes the foam and chips out the cylinder.

 

[jhelrey]

http://www.f150forum.com/

It's where I belong.... Same user name. I've done plugs on the 5.4 V8 3V

 

[wafrederick]

About $500.00 to $700.00 for a shop to change plugs on these 3 valve triton engines.Did one on a 2006 F150 and it included 2 coils.Had a missfire code on,2 of the coils were bad too.My Matco dealer sells the Lisle tool to Ford dealerships easily and stocks them.The Ford techs like the Lisle version better than the Ford tool.Champion also makes the 1 piece plug part #7989 and is not cheap,$25.00 a piece

 

[Damian]

I've done a ton of the late 90's/early 2000's 5.4L's. They're not bad at all once you've done a few. I can swap plugs/coils in about 45 minutes in one now.

The key to not breaking the plugs off in the head is letting the truck get good and hot. It ***** cause your hands get burnt working on a hot engine, but it's a lot better than spending an extra 30 minutes to an hour PER plug drying to dig them out of the head. I just did a set on an Expedition last week w/ 150K on the original plugs. Let the engine get up to operating temps, shut her off and pulled all the plugs immediately with no problems..

 

[Jeeper]

My friend has done 2 f150s and got them all out without breaking. Key was to follow the latest TSB. Used Motorcraft carb cleaner. Earlier TSBs used Kriol, but switched to Motorcradt carb cleaner. Loosened plug 1/8 of a turn and soaked the plug with cleaner and let it sit over night. Then it's a loosen a little, tighten a little, back and forth until its out.

I need to do mine soon. Still nervous but a little more confident than before.

 

[srmofo]

I've done a ton of the late 90's/early 2000's 5.4L's. They're not bad at all once you've done a few. I can swap plugs/coils in about 45 minutes in one now.

.

2004-2008 1/2 are the ones with the biggest issues.

They switched the plugs back to a more "normal" design it also has a smaller thread diameter than the "goofy" looking plugs

I figured out the 1/2 year change last week when everyone kept sending me the goofy plugs. ordered a set for an 09 and they were right. Another call to the dealer confirmed this. I still cant figure out why getting important info like this from the parts guys at the dealer counter is such a hassle

 

[metal1313]

i'll be doing this soon, and have the tsb's saved and read over several times. my plan is to have the lisle tool on hand just incase. im gonna crack the plugs 1/8 turn, hit them with teh carb cleaner, let sit over night. re-tighten and get the truck hot, crack again and re oil them. wait an hour, re-tighten and warm truck. then slowly pull the plugs. i'll also be treating the gas for the week leading up to this, and prob an oil change immediatly before i run seafoam through the gas.

http://www.tooltopia.com/lisle-21260.aspx i will also be buying a pair of these, and recommend others do as well

 

[srmofo]

The heats not really that bad. The heater hoses are on the passenger side and they're a little warm but other than that its just the radiant heat rising up . This time of year, being warm is a good thing.