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New 25x28 Garage project rollin'!

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Namocsid

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Namocsid... What did they run the AC lines in? Going to have mine replaced this Fall and they will have to run up the side of the house like yours.
Don't want the ugly lines showing..........Like the look of the pipe.

Well, there's nothing written on the material that the lines are running in. It appears to be PVC and is square and resembles a gutter downspout. The closest thing I can find would be things like this:

http://cableorganizer.com/cable-raceway/

Maybe that will at least give your HVAC guy a place to start looking.
 
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chad551

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How come you have all your baseboards and a/c installed before you painted?
 
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Namocsid

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How come you have all your baseboards and a/c installed before you painted?

Well, I get to do the painting, and I was out of town last weekend, but work progresses anyway. So I'll get it painted eventually. It would have been nice to have it painted by now, however.
 
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Namocsid

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Busy day today:

New sliding glass door has been installed on the house, new siding (to match the garage) is in progress on the house also.

As far as the garage goes, the garage door has been shoddily installed :mad: My contractor and the salesman both noted dents in the 3rd and 4th panels of the door. The installation guy installed them anyway, because "he's not a service guy, and that's a service issue" The installer also forgot to raise the height of the tracks to 9', move the support on the right side track 2' closer to the door, properly secure the middle of the top panel, etc etc. These will be addressed tomorrow, believe me.

Pictures:

Garage0125.jpg


Garage0124.jpg
 
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Namocsid

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Other progress of today, Lights have been installed, the plumber's guys were back on site to run natural gas for the water heater for the floor...

and I have two new toys in the garage::beer:
Picked up a toolchest on sale at Sears
Garage0123.jpg



Garage0122.jpg


Thanks to Frank at standard US for a great deal on the lift!
 
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Namocsid

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Looks great!

***** about the door..... give them hell!

There are some possible clearance issues with the lift (after a vehicle is on it, and it is raised up) and the door track, hence the modifications to the installation. This way, if i need to trim off the back of the track on the lift side of the garage I can do so.

Apparently the installer was having some trouble getting the track supported correctly with the position of the lights. However I won't settle for cutting corners on the install when it's running me $1350.....

The nice part is I just fuss at my contractor and he can pass the heartburn along to everyone else. :)
 

IDASHO

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Thats a pretty good price for an insulated door. What size is it.... 8x16? And does the price include install?

I got quoted $2600 for mine, but that is a 9x18, insulated, with windows, ceiling mounted track, and a side mount opener.
 

PurdueSD

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Garage looks great, just a question. Had you considered a having the door follow the vaulted ceiling? It would eliminate your clearance problem with a vehicle on the lift.
 
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Namocsid

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Thats a pretty good price for an insulated door. What size is it.... 8x16? And does the price include install?

I got quoted $2600 for mine, but that is a 9x18, insulated, with windows, ceiling mounted track, and a side mount opener.

It's an 8x18, that's the installed price.

Garage looks great, just a question. Had you considered a having the door follow the vaulted ceiling? It would eliminate your clearance problem with a vehicle on the lift.


We have discussed that option, however it would add about $1500 to the price of the garage door install. I'm not opposed to spending the additional money, but the garage is already wired for an opener in the "tradtitional" spot, as opposed to a high-lift opener which would be next to the door.

I think if they get it installed as we had previously discussed I'll have the clearance I need.... I hope anyway. :)
 

bluesman2a

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We have discussed that option, however it would add about $1500 to the price of the garage door install. I'm not opposed to spending the additional money, but the garage is already wired for an opener in the "tradtitional" spot, as opposed to a high-lift opener which would be next to the door.

I may be outta line here (there are pro's here who I am happy to be corrected by) but $1500 sounds wrong. If you keep a traditional opener, then you have to pay for an extra/fake panel so I can see whatever that cost would be. That panel doesn't really even have to be insulated since it is never exposed to the outside. So there's the panel cost. If you go with a jack shaft opener there's the cost of the opener and any other incidentals. The way this was explained to my by my Overhead Door rep is that either way you're looking at about $400 difference.

For your application $1500 may be the number, but maybe somebody is trying to steer you away from work they don't want to put in. Either way I'd ask for the cost breakdown there...
 
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Namocsid

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I may be outta line here (there are pro's here who I am happy to be corrected by) but $1500 sounds wrong. If you keep a traditional opener, then you have to pay for an extra/fake panel so I can see whatever that cost would be. That panel doesn't really even have to be insulated since it is never exposed to the outside. So there's the panel cost. If you go with a jack shaft opener there's the cost of the opener and any other incidentals. The way this was explained to my by my Overhead Door rep is that either way you're looking at about $400 difference.

For your application $1500 may be the number, but maybe somebody is trying to steer you away from work they don't want to put in. Either way I'd ask for the cost breakdown there...

I appreciate your feedback. We talked with the overhead door salesman this afternoon and he's going to check into an price on changing the door to a "high-lift" track, while using the standard opener. We'll see what he comes back with on Monday.

Progress wise, the plumber got the gas line finished today, and siding work has begun on the house.
 
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Namocsid

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Plumber was back out today, got the manifold built and installed for the radiant floor. They should be finished tomorrow, and final inspections tomorrow afternoon, with any luck, I'll have power this weekend!

Garage0126.jpg
 
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Namocsid

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Power company was out this morning and got me turned on! (Was a pleasant surprise since final inspection hasn't been done yet.

Plumber should have the last parts to finish the radiant floor manifold, controller, etc on Monday, then we should be good to go for final inspections.

Feels nice and cool in there with the A/C running! Can't wait to get a car up on that lift!

Pictures tomorrow!
 
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Namocsid

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I haven't decided on boxing in the radiant tubing, but I will most likely do something.

Manifold with pump installed:
Garage0128.jpg


And power hooked up, Electric meter, and a green box! Gutters also installed.
Garage0127.jpg
 
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Namocsid

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Yeehaw! Passed the final inspection today, so I get to move the Bus in, finally!

On a slightly irritating note, the electrician went by city hall (I'm not in the city limits, but I am subject to their zoning) to call in his final inspection and warned the inspections department that the panel was HOT, even though we had nothing to do with it.

Apparently the inspections people didn't appreciate that, so they called up Duke Power who came out at 1pm and removed the meter. We passed the final inspection at 3... :mad:

Oh well, hopefully power will be back on tomorrow. Driveway forms start going in tomorrow, pouring the driveway Thursday and Friday!

Pics:

Garage0129.jpg


Garage0130.jpg
 
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Namocsid

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How did you get the buss up that 1' step? :)

Running start? :lol:

Actually we used my lawnmower ramps... and put a serious bend in the boards, but She's in there!

Driveway is going in today so I don't have to worry about that anymore.
 
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Namocsid

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Pictures after today's driveway (or half a driveway, but still 13 yards of concrete) pour:

From the street:
Garage0131.jpg



Driveway poured today:
Garage0132.jpg


Garage0133.jpg


Garage0134.jpg
 
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Namocsid

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Had the guys pour me a sidewalk to connect the side door of the garage with the front/side of the house, and the back patio:

Garage0136.jpg




Also, got the pump wired up to the radiant flooring, however they'll have do disconnect it when they add in the controller so the pump doesn't run all the time.

Garage0135.jpg
 
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Namocsid

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Thanks DynoDave!

Oh, I forgot, I've decided to finish the floors. This wasn't part of the original plan, but I've been considering epoxy to protect my concrete. Unfortunately, Epoxy won't stand up to welding splatter, and though I won't be doing a lot of welding, I don't want to worry about burning up my epoxy floor if and when I do weld on it.

I've decided to have the concrete polished. From everything I've read, a polished concrete floor is my best option for a 'working' shop. While I might not get the stain resistance that epoxy provides, I do get good stain resistance, durability, no tire marks, and I can weld on it!

I was pleasantly surprised to find out that having the floor polished is competitively priced with having epoxy installed, at less than $5 per sq. foot for an 800 grit final polish.

They're scheduled to polish me up on 9/14, and should have the job done in less than 1 day
 
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Namocsid

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Well, I decided to have the floor done. Originally I was leaning towards epoxy, but you can't weld on it, and I really didn't want to have to use welding blankets every time I want to drag the welder out.

So I had the concrete polished. It took 2 guys from preferred concrete polishing about 12 hours to polish the garage, then they filled in the saw joints in the slab.

All in all, it looks great! I can't believe how smooth it is. Also, the floor had several uneven spots from when the slab was poured (which was obvious when I was watering it during the curing stage). Those are all gone now. Because of the unevenness of the floor, and the minor amount of bullfloating that the concrete sub did during the pour, you can see a fair amount of aggregate in the floor finish, but I rather like it.

Now the pics! :

During: This makes an incredible mess and generates a lot of concrete dust slurry when they're polishing/sanding with 50 and 100 grit "pads"
Garage0137.jpg



Finished:
notice the reflection of the lift. It's decently glossy, and not slippery at all, even when wet.
Garage0138.jpg


Garage0139.jpg



And a close-up showing some of the finished product with no and some aggregate showing:
Garage0140.jpg



I'm really pleased with it. It turned out awesome, and I get all the benefits of epoxy (spill resistant, no hot tire pick up, super durable) and I can weld on it. And It won't flake off! All for virtually the same price as epoxy professionally installed...:beer:
 

PurdueSD

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been waiting to hear from someone whose done this...

care to give us an idea on the cost/ sq ft?
 
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Namocsid

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been waiting to hear from someone whose done this...

care to give us an idea on the cost/ sq ft?



I elected to go with an 800grit final polish, which ended up being slightly less than $5/sq ft. Other options from this contractor would have been a 400 or 1500 grit, subtracting or adding about $1/sq ft respectively. Having the concrete stained also would have added $1/sq ft.

I forgot to mention that part of the polishing process involves the application of a "densifier" that actually acts to harden the concrete and make it even stronger, something about crystal structure and microscopic pores in the concrete....
 

BRUISER

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well "Namocsid" if you come back and read this.. where are you in NC

I am also a VW guy.. so was just curious
 

NCdad

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well "Namocsid" if you come back and read this.. where are you in NC

I am also a VW guy.. so was just curious

Me too, curious where you are?

I am North of Charlotte ( Denver, Maiden area )

Garage looks great, thanks for the pics.
 
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