New 25x28 Garage project rollin'!

[Namocsid]

Things have been in motion for a few weeks, but I've waited to start a thread on my Garage/Shop project until now. I'm putting up a 25x28 detached garage, 2x6x10 foot walls, scissor trusses, radiant floor heat (laid out for future installation of a 2 post lift).

25x28 is the biggest I can fit to meet the required setbacks from the property lines and the denitrification lines from the septic system. I had originally planned for a 24x24, but ended up upgrading...

Now for the pictures!


Location laid out, fence removed:

Footings dug out:

Forms and gravel installed!:

 

[Namocsid]

We'll be pouring a monolithic slab 5" deep, with 20" footings, 8" above grade. Vapor barrier over the gravel, 1/2" styrofoam over that, then mesh and radiant tubing:

Insulation installed:

(Green squares mark radiant tubing setback for future lift)

Radiant tubing installed:
This isn't very common here in NC, so it's a first time experience for my contractor and concrete guys, (the plumber doing the install has experience though) Everyone's done great so far!

 

[Namocsid]

Tubing was installed on Monday, pressure tested Tuesday, inspection was on Wednesday (passed!) and concrete pour was Thursday:

Now I need to water it 3 times a day for a few days... then we put walls up!

Updates to follow!!

 

[coW]

NICE!!! Can't wait for the finished product!

coW

 

[Novadiecast]

Can't wait to see that concete grow from all that watering!!!!

 

[JMURiz]

Looking good!
Wish someone would have told me to keep mine damp while it set-up...now I have some hairline cracks, oh well hindsight is 20/20.

 

[Kevin54]

Too bad you couldn't have went with 26'. A 25' wide garage is going to cost you extra money. Trusses will have to be made special unless you go with rafter, you will have extra cost or waste in sheeting because it is now a ******* size (not 2' increments) in both the roof and in the sidewalls, plus calculating studding for door openings etc. How do I know? Been there, done that. A contractor screwed my sons' footers up and had to go an extra foot. 25' front to back really screws up rafter spans.

Kevin

 

[cyclopsblown34]

Killer build, I am astounded at how many people are as fanatical about their garages as me. Is the neighbor going to remove the carport once your shop is up? It might be an eyesore once your shop is complete.

 

[curlyws6]

I bet you're getting excited seeing it actually moving along (I know I was when I came home the first day and found the footing survey for my garage ).

 

[Namocsid]

Been a while, and I was out of town for the past week. But a few more progress pictures to pass along:

Building supplies have been delivered:

Trusses and the LVL beam for the header above the garage door should be delivered this week.

 

[Namocsid]

Work on the walls has begun! Hopefully we'll get the first one standing up tomorrow.

I'd have liked to go with a 26' deep garage, unfortunately I'm restricted by the lateral lines of my septic field and the setbacks associated with them. Because the garage must sit behind the back line of the house to allow me to build 5' from the property line, and the lateral lines require a 10' setback, and sit 36 feet behind the house, I'm really as large as I can possibly build. I should really scan and post the drawing of the site so you can see what I'm talking about.

More pictures this week!!

 

[Will67]

I hope this doesn't turn into a thread highjack...

I have been looking at every garage thread looking for ideas, and am amazed at the differences in building codes that manifest in differences in footings, shear-walls, anchors, etc...

I was looking at you footing/slab and ask myself were are the huricane anchors or J-bolts. I live in California seismic activity is always at the back of your mind and is a big part of building codes. It looks like you "mud-sill" is shot down with____.

 

[Steve in Mi]

Will67, you're not alone in the observation of different foundation treatments. The presence of "J" bolts and perimeter re-rod is the norm in my local area.

It does appear to have drilled holes for anchors in post #11.

 

[Namocsid]

Will67, you're not alone in the observation of different foundation treatments. The presence of "J" bolts and perimeter re-rod is the norm in my local area.

It does appear to have drilled holes for anchors in post #11.

There are indeed holes drilled for anchors. The holes are about 3" deep and 1/2" in diameter, spaced about 44" apart.

I've also noted the differences in foundations. A lot of people building north of me seem to be pouring footings, then setting concrete block and doing a separate slab pour. Monolithic (footings in slab) pours are the standard around here, I suppose that's because our climate is warmer than our friends up north?

 

[99E36M]

There are indeed holes drilled for anchors. The holes are about 3" deep and 1/2" in diameter, spaced about 44" apart.

I've also noted the differences in foundations. A lot of people building north of me seem to be pouring footings, then setting concrete block and doing a separate slab pour. Monolithic (footings in slab) pours are the standard around here, I suppose that's because our climate is warmer than our friends up north?

Yup, slabs up here in MA require a 2' deep frost wall. Good thing concrete is cheap....oh wait....
________
Peak Towers Condominium Pattaya

 

[Namocsid]

Trusses and the LVL's for the header above the garage door arrived today!

 

[Namocsid]

Walls went up today!

 

[64auto]

Looking good. I am getting ready to pour my floor. How long should I wait before I start To water after it is poured? Just don't want to leave spots in it from the sprinkler and water.

 

[Namocsid]

Looking good. I am getting ready to pour my floor. How long should I wait before I start To water after it is poured? Just don't want to leave spots in it from the sprinkler and water.

My concrete guys had finished up by about lunchtime, and had me water the slab for about 30 minutes at about 6pm. Ask your concrete contractor for specific directions for your pour.

 

[StingRay]

Funny how building codes are different. Up here where cold takes on a whole new meaning a monolithic pour with 10" wide and 10 inch deep edges is pretty normal. Here frost goes down 7 feet. You have to go 8 feet to keep water lines from freezing. I've never seen a slab fail from heaving either. I've seen lots of basement floors heave up from excessive water under the slab though.

J bolts and hurricane clips are pretty much unheard of too. We do get tornados occsionally and I've seen 60-70 mph plow winds but we don't seem to worry much about things blowing away. I'm sure some use good hardware but as I understand it all the code requires to anchor the trusses down is 3 nails toe nailed into the top plate. I find it kind of scarey but my garage is built just so..... and not by me.

 

[Namocsid]

More walls up today:

The guys have been working from about 7:30 am until noon or so, after that it's just been too hot to do much outside if you can avoid it. Cooler weather forcasted for next week however!

 

[wmonroe]

The garage is coming along great. Seeing how fast your and other peoples garages are progressing sometimes make me wish I would have hired someone to do mine instead of doing it myself.
Will

 

[Namocsid]

Got the rest of the walls up, and the sheathing almost finished! Trusses should start on Monday!

 

[V-10 Killer]

Just out of curiousity, why did you leave the top plate unsheathed?
I've just put up 8' of OSB and have 2' 7" left to the top of the top plate. I was going to run it up over the energy heel on the trusses.

 

[V-10 Killer]

Aah, strike that last post, I bet you're using 92 5/8" precut studs aren't you. almost 2" overlap onto the slab leaves 2" short up top.

Sometimes I have to say it out loud before I can actually understand it...

 

[IdahoJoe]

... I'm putting up a 25x28 detached garage, 2x6x10 foot walls, scissor trusses, radiant floor heat...

Aah, strike that last post, I bet you're using 92 5/8" precut studs aren't you....

I don't think he's using 92 5/8" studs for a 10 foot sidewall...at least not looking through the overhead door to the back wall...

 

[V-10 Killer]

It looked tall to me too, but look at the service door opening. Its rough opening is probably 6' 9" tall, plus a 12" header plus around 2' more to the top of the top plate.

But you're right in the quote, I didn't see that he stated 2x6 10' studs.

 

[V-10 Killer]

Hahaha, I just reread my last post and added up the numbers, yep that's about 10'.....

Ok, I'm gonna be quiet now, I have 4 posts on this page, and 3 of them are garbage

 

[comp]

looking good that you VW bus ?

 

[Namocsid]

To reply to the raised questions:

Yes, they are 2x6x10' sidewalls, hence the gap in sheathing up top. The back and front walls have now been fully sheathed (pictures coming in a minute). The gable ends will be on the side walls to match the construction of the house.

Not quite sure why he didn't wait to put the sheathing on the side walls since he'll have to go all the way up to the gables eventually, but as long as it gets done, it doesn't much matter to me. That's the nice part about paying someone else to do it.

For reference, that is an 18x8' opening for the garage door.

Yes, that's my VW bus. Gotta have a nice climate-controlled place to work on it, right?

 

[Namocsid]

Today's picture:

Sheathing is finished, getting ready to start putting trusses up!

 

[PhantomEB]

Looks great, I am gonna try to get vaulted ceilings in my future shop too if I end up buying a house with only a floor slab poured.

 

[Namocsid]

Got the first gable end truss up, framed and sheathed today:

 

[Dodgepu360]

looks good

what is the pitch of the roof and the pitch of the vault?

 

[great adventure]

very good job....
may I ask you one question

could you please tell me why you put the red hoses under the
concreat...?? and connected them with a gauge??

thank you

 

[Namocsid]

looks good

what is the pitch of the roof and the pitch of the vault?

Originally it was to be 5/12 roof to match the house, and 3/12 on the inside, that got changed to 6/12 and I believe 4/12 on the inside for extra clearance... didn't know about that change until after the trusses arrived on site, but oh well.

 

[Namocsid]

very good job....
may I ask you one question

could you please tell me why you put the red hoses under the
concreat...?? and connected them with a gauge??

thank you

The red tubing is for radiant floor heating. It was pressurized during the pour to make sure there was no damage (and leaks) to the tubing.

 

[Namocsid]

The rest of the trusses went up today. Sheathing will be finished tomorrow!

 

[Namocsid]

Sheathing finished up today:

 

[Uncle Buck]

I would possibly kill for that much shop space! It looks great.