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Acid etch & rinse - drying time

snorvet

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Oct 29, 2005
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The temps will be getting cooler so that I can paint my floor with H&C sealer without it drying too fast.

I'm renting a floor grinder, and I'm acid etching and rinsing after that. How long should I allow the floor to dry between rinsing and the first coat?
 
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ron in sc

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Mar 19, 2006
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Charleston, SC
Which H&C sealer are you using? I ask because I have considered this product too and am interested in how it works out for you. I have new untreated or sealed concrete.
 

GaryRoushkolb

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I left mine for a couple days in hot weather , but I'd ask at the place you buy the sealer. Remember if you weld or cut on your new floor I'll burn the sealer and make permanate black marks, looks like hell.
 
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snorvet

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Which H&C sealer are you using? I ask because I have considered this product too and am interested in how it works out for you. I have new untreated or sealed concrete.

ron:

Here's the sealer I'm using:

IMG_2089.jpg


I did a test on my precast step and it appears to hold up very well - of course I havent driven on it. I'll know more in a couple weeks when I do the whole floor.

IMG_2090.jpg
 
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snorvet

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I left mine for a couple days in hot weather , but I'd ask at the place you buy the sealer. Remember if you weld or cut on your new floor I'll burn the sealer and make permanate black marks, looks like hell.

Thanks - no welding or cutting on this floor - this garage is only for car storage.
 

boiler7904

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NW IN
I washed / rinsed my floor on a sunday afternoon and then applied the first coat of epoxy the following saturday morning. No problems one year later.

The more dry air you can get moving over it the better. Since it's supposed to be dry and in the mid 80s from now through sunday night, I'd try to get it acid etched tonight or tomorrow night and let it start drying.

I'd do the duct tape and plastic bag moisture test the night before you want to start putting the product down.

Just curious - why the rug between the precast step and the floor slab?
 
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snorvet

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I washed / rinsed my floor on a sunday afternoon and then applied the first coat of epoxy the following saturday morning. No problems one year later.

The more dry air you can get moving over it the better. Since it's supposed to be dry and in the mid 80s from now through sunday night, I'd try to get it acid etched tonight or tomorrow night and let it start drying.

I'd do the duct tape and plastic bag moisture test the night before you want to start putting the product down.

Just curious - why the rug between the precast step and the floor slab?

I'm trying for this schedule:

Sat 9/22 or Sun 9/23 - grind (I havent seen the grinder yet, but the rental place in Morris says that it will be back in their shop on Friday

Sun 9/23 or Mon 9/24 - etch and rinse, then open windows, run fans and dehumidifier

Sat 9/29 - first coat

Sun 9/30 - second coat

Sun 10/7 - pull the vehicles in

This schedule gives me 6 days drying time like you had. My last garage I let dry about a week during the spring and everything is fine there, but I just wanted to see if others let it dry about a week as well. I'll do a moisture test to make sure.

The rug is under the step because the step doesnt sit perfectly on the concrete - it has a little wobble when you step on it. The rug eliminates the wobble. I'm going to use a washer or 2 for shims when I get done with the floor
 

boiler7904

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I'm trying for this schedule:

Sat 9/22 or Sun 9/23 - grind (I havent seen the grinder yet, but the rental place in Morris says that it will be back in their shop on Friday

Sun 9/23 or Mon 9/24 - etch and rinse, then open windows, run fans and dehumidifier

Sat 9/29 - first coat

Sun 9/30 - second coat

Sun 10/7 - pull the vehicles in

This schedule gives me 6 days drying time like you had. My last garage I let dry about a week during the spring and everything is fine there, but I just wanted to see if others let it dry about a week as well. I'll do a moisture test to make sure.

The rug is under the step because the step doesnt sit perfectly on the concrete - it has a little wobble when you step on it. The rug eliminates the wobble. I'm going to use a washer or 2 for shims when I get done with the floor

I think I'd let the sealer cure a little longer before you first pull a car onto it. I know its easier said than done when its an attached garage at a house you're living in. Since I was living in Minooka while I did my floor in Indiana, it was easy to stay off of for a week while it cured.

How effective will the dehumidifer be if the windows are open?
 

JohnHenrys48

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Jan 27, 2005
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Arizona
I
The rug is under the step because the step doesnt sit perfectly on the concrete - it has a little wobble when you step on it. The rug eliminates the wobble. I'm going to use a washer or 2 for shims when I get done with the floor


Use this putty tape that RVr's use. You'll be much happier with the result. I picked some up at a local RV store and used it to take the "rock" out of a concrete bench.

http://www.pplmotorhomes.com/parts/caulks-sealants/97741.htm
 
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snorvet

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Northern Illinois
I think I'd let the sealer cure a little longer before you first pull a car onto it. I know its easier said than done when its an attached garage at a house you're living in. Since I was living in Minooka while I did my floor in Indiana, it was easy to stay off of for a week while it cured.

How effective will the dehumidifer be if the windows are open?

I suppose I can put off pulling the cars in for a few more days. The instructions say wait 72-96 hours for "heavy traffic", but I'll more than double that to make sure. I'm trying to clean out my detached garage to the point where one car will fit in there during this.

Good point on the dehumidifier effectiveness with the windows open.
 
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