How much power for a lift?

[timewarp]

I would like to place an outlet for a lift in my ceiling before sheetrocking. I have no clue what lift I will be getting, I am just planning for the very far off future. I don't even really need an outlet, I can just run the wire to a box and put a cover on it. Just need to know what the power requirements are for a "standard" lift. Is #10 wire for a 30amp circuit large enough or should I run #8?

Also do all lifts get there power from the ceiling or should I consider running wire to a spot on the wall near where the lift will go also?

Thanks in advance,

P.S. I did try to search this and came up with not much.

 

[CUSTOMMANCAVES.COM]

My BendPak uses 220v @ 20a. I ran #10 wire. 30a won't hurt, as you can use it in the future for other appliances (e.g. welder). If you don't have a long run, then there's no real harm in going up one wire size.

I wired mine to the wall next to the lift motor with a receptacle and, instead of hard-wiring the lift, I installed the appropriate plug on the cord. I can un-plug the lift when not needed and use the circuit for something else (compressor, small welder, etc.).

 

[timewarp]

Thanks,
I've got plenty of 50 amp outlets for the welders already, just thought it would be a good idea to run some wire for a lift while the walls and ceiling are still open.

 

[pattenp]

You should run a dedicated line for the lift. 240V / 30A using 10-2 with ground is good. Be sure you provide a means of power disconnect if your breaker box is not in line of sight of your lift. My two post lift is hardwired to a box in the ceiling with a disconnect switch box on one of the columns.

 

[CADPoint]

You should always follow the manufactures instructions!

Your motor will probably be around FLA of 5 to 7 amps this is well with-in the safe use of a 12 AWG size.

You can go up in wire size due to voltage drop (distance) or even heat considerations but you don't go up in breakers size 220/ 20Amps should be just that. Distance really won't be a concern till up to 100' one way.

The 2P breaker are protecting the wire, and as said a disconnect is used if the breaker is not with-in line of site. The disconnect can be right next to the to you lift controls. the Stop/Start are generally not lockable so they do not quailify as a means of disconnect.

I would not plan on anything else being off of this circuited service!

 

[snowphun]

I would not plan on anything else being off of this circuited service!

What is the concern with sharing the circuit? The lift very rarely operates, why not share it with other devices?

 

[Dragster Racer]

I don't remember what the amps were, but mine was well within the 12 wire I ran.

 

[kaffine]

You might want to run a neutral even though the lift motor won’t need it. Just in case you get a lift with convenience outlets for 120V tools.

 

[fefarms]

Let me emphasize the importance of a secondary disconnect within reach of the normal operating controls. It is best if this is a two-pole switch or circuit breaker. I found this out the hard way. I purchased a used Bear two-post 8000 pound lift at auction. It uses a limit switch to operate the motor to raise the lift, and a hydraulic valve for lower. After I set it up, I found the limit switch had a tendency to stick closed. My low shop ceiling does not allow tall vehicles to be raised all the way, so thls got a little scary when a vehicle was on the lift and the motor wouldn't shut off despute releasing the hand-operated valve.

I was a little delayed getting the proper electrical wires run, so I had used a cord-and-plug disconnect to run temporary power to test/use the lift. I had to bend down to pull the plug to stop the runaway motor. If I hadn't been able to reach it, I don't know what I would have done.

Needless to say, after this I wired a 2 pole switch as a disconnect switch on the upright, right next to the normal operating handle. I also replaced the sticking limit switch.

 

[CUSTOMMANCAVES.COM]

I found the limit switch had a tendency to stick closed.

With all due respect, you shouldn't have been operating a lift with malfunctioning safety devices.

My receptacle/plug is right next to the controls (about waist-to-chest high), so if something goes sideways, I can yank it.

 

[CADPoint]

What is the concern with sharing the circuit? The lift very rarely operates, why not share it with other devices?

Another posted running the third wire - neutral,(now a 12/3/g) yes that might or might be a consideration. Next thing your know your need power for a mini welder, someone needs some grinder powered all off that convience outlet on the lift.

All garage's is suppose to have GFCI circuit protect on all circuits of 120V, were at 220V with the lift; why mix-use this circuits? GFCI are not required on 220V. Are you going to put the GFCI in front of the disconnect and possible knock out the convience outlet on the lift or the lift itself?

The GFCI senses for both the Neutral and Hot legs for protection, but in this case it pops it would leave one of two possible poles, Live.
or
One would still have hot leg down to the disconnect! If that GFCI Failed (broke) then you can't reset it and the lift doesn't move.

In this one case, I'm just not keen on considering mixing up this circuit and it's use.

 

[snowphun]

All garage's is suppose to have GFCI circuit protect on all circuits of 120V

Where is this the case? I have no GFCI's in my garage, the house is only a few years old.

Many lifts are not 220v, they are 110v. So an example given elsewhere: why not plug the lift into the circuit used for the garage door openers? The two would never be used at the same time.

 

[CADPoint]

Where is this the case? I have no GFCI's in my garage, the house is only a few years old.

Many lifts are not 220v, they are 110v. So an example given elsewhere: why not plug the lift into the circuit used for the garage door openers? The two would never be used at the same time.

Originally Posted by CADPoint
All garage's is suppose to have GFCI circuit protect on all circuits of 120V

I knew I'd touch some toes with that remark!

In the USA most Regional & State authorities adopt the NFPA-70, National Electric Code every three years, some authorities are three years behind.
An example of this is that Virginia was on 2005 code and just went to 2008.

Now along with adopting this Code, they are also allowed to modify this Code to suit a States or Reginals needs to or address commerce concerns raised within the issues addressed with in a cycle of the Code.

Since 05' Code, CFGI's are required on all 120V circuits in both Commerical and Private Garages.

If your above in the Great White North, I can't address any issues with their Code requirements. I do know that an electric Code does exist and it pretty much mirrors the USA.

 

[Possum]

My 9000lb two post draws something like 11 amps at 240v. Put it on 20 amp breaker, ran 12-2 to the location, and used a twist lock plug on the ceiling with the SOOW cord running to the lift. The suggestions to drop 120v at the lift location are worth a look.

 

[Dragster Racer]

I'm still trying to get my head around the limit switch that sticks closed. Even if....when you let go of the button, that should open the circuit. So were there two malfunctions with this lift concurrently?

 

[NCRoadRunner]

Here in North Carolina, in a garage you MUST have all 120v outlets as ground faults, either by a GF breaker in the panel or a master GF receptical with the other outlets on the 'load' side of that master. Additionally outlets in a garage must be of the 'safety' variety, it has 'shutters' that prevent a hairpin or nail from being put in. So I had to put the breaker in the main panel, since there were no 'safety' GF outlets. The safety outlets are a bit of a pain - the plug has to go in straight, giong in at an angle will not open the 'shutters'....grrrrrrrr

 

[ForceFed70]

I'm still trying to get my head around the limit switch that sticks closed. Even if....when you let go of the button, that should open the circuit. So were there two malfunctions with this lift concurrently?

Sounds to me like he used the wrong terminology. Probably just the momentary contact/control switch that had a problem.

Otherwise, you are correct. Somehow both switches failed.