Thanks, I was looking for a dark gray in the Rust-Oleum Hammered, but the closest thing I found was the Hammered Bronze...it was an experiment but I think it came out alright.
If anybody is interested I posted it in the classifieds
The VISES of Garage Journal
- Thread starter mjozefow
- Start date
Thanks, I was looking for a dark gray in the Rust-Oleum Hammered, but the closest thing I found was the Hammered Bronze...it was an experiment but I think it came out alright.
If anybody is interested I posted it in the classifieds
I'm just outside the former industrial mecca known as Providence.
Yup, Mine is a 41 s too. I think thats the only model I've ever seen. I wonder if they made other sizes.
You need a Vise from Massachusetts. That would be by Starrett or Athol Machine Co.
I think I saw a 43S on this thread and others.
I have been looking for a Starrett...and a better condition Parker...and the list goes on&on
This thread has given me a vise addiction!
Picked up three more, a Reed NO 1C, a 4" Morgan marked "Star" on one side and "Aurora" on the other and a 3" Morgan marked "30" and "Chicago"
The Reed is in good physical condition, the jaws are in nice shape, important since they are not removeable.
The Morgans had a repaint by the seller and are in good shape. Note they are NOT swivel vises, have 3 mounting holes each.
Paid a Franklin for all three, not bad.
Picked up three more, a Reed NO 1C, a 4" Morgan marked "Star" on one side and "Aurora" on the other and a 3" Morgan marked "30" and "Chicago"
The Reed is in good physical condition, the jaws are in nice shape, important since they are not removeable.
The Morgans had a repaint by the seller and are in good shape. Note they are NOT swivel vises, have 3 mounting holes each.
Paid a Franklin for all three, not bad.
Attachments
emeraldcoupe
Well-known member
picked this one up at an estate sale this morning for $5 littlestown #112 3 1/2"
picked this one up at an estate sale this morning for $5 littlestown #112 3 1/2"
I like those Littlestown vises. I passed one up the other day that was pretty beat up and rusty and the guy was firm on $25...so I think you got a great deal!
Call me the Breeze
Well-known member
Anyone Have any idea what this is?
old salvage
Well-known member
A better pic of the logo area and maybe someone can figure it out.
i just picked this little guy up today, for my restore project, Columbian C43, 3" jaws, overall good shape, single finger twirl, more dirt and grime than anything else. only big issue i can see so far til i take everything apart, is one of the jaws has a crack that runs along the top, and part way down the side.
here are two pics of the jaw that has the crack, the top crack is more obvious, the side crack is harder to see, but it there
here are two pics of the jaw that has the crack, the top crack is more obvious, the side crack is harder to see, but it there
Last edited:
BiltFordTuff
Well-known member
- Joined
- Nov 11, 2010
- Messages
- 104
have no idea what kind it is?
BiltFordTuff
Well-known member
- Joined
- Nov 11, 2010
- Messages
- 104
picked this one up at an estate sale this morning for $5 littlestown #112 3 1/2"
i have one exactly like that
crankshaftdan II
Well-known member
have no idea what kind it is?
I have an identical vise to this one marked as 240 SHOP and mine was made in Japan-probably goes back to the 1980's or so when Sears and others were importing Japanese tools. It's a nice solid vise for a homeowner or light garage usage. I believe that this vice was a try to duplicate the Wilton type of this era
Steevo
Well-known member
This little guy has been in my tool cabinet for years, and I have never yet had a use for it.
It has 2" wide smooth jaws, and the only markings on it are what you see in these pics. I have never heard of "Gambles" other than on this vise.
Doesn't say what the COO is anywhere on it, but I assume it is foreign made.
It has 2" wide smooth jaws, and the only markings on it are what you see in these pics. I have never heard of "Gambles" other than on this vise.
Doesn't say what the COO is anywhere on it, but I assume it is foreign made.
SweetD
Well-known member
I finally got some jaws made for my vintage Stanley Sweetheart vise. Came out awesome:
This little guy has been in my tool cabinet for years, and I have never yet had a use for it.
It has 2" wide smooth jaws, and the only markings on it are what you see in these pics. I have never heard of "Gambles" other than on this vise.
Doesn't say what the COO is anywhere on it, but I assume it is foreign made.
Nice Nice Nice Vise
Congratulations
I finally got some jaws made for my vintage Stanley Sweetheart vise. Came out awesome:
OMG that pretty Vise.Congratulations .Awesome Tool
V!
Here's one I did over the weekend. It's a cheapy Taiwan that wouldn't work at all and the previous owner was gonna scrap it. Took it apart, beadblasted it, primed it, and painted it John Deere green/yellow. Greased her up and she works good as new!
bgott
Well-known member
Those bench clamp vises are really handy. I figured they were ****, then I ended up with one that I use on the bench in my shed. It works for a lot of stuff!
SweetD
Well-known member
Here's one I did over the weekend. It's a cheapy Taiwan that wouldn't work at all and the previous owner was gonna scrap it. Took it apart, beadblasted it, primed it, and painted it John Deere green/yellow. Greased her up and she works good as new!
Great job! So, is bead blasting the way to go or will electrolysis produce the same results?
I've been considering getting a small portable media blaster...but then I would also have to get a cabinet too, right? I think I already have everything to try the electrolysis.
I think so. It doesn't take long and it yields great results. I should have taken before/after pics. It's about 20-30 years old and never been resto'd and after about 30 minutes of blasting, it was down to bare metal. a coat of primer and some paint and voila! i've got a like new vise!
Gary Indiana
Well-known member
I did consider blasting and electrolysis, but ended with a simple wire cup on angle grinder with great results (pictured in here).
Just be careful not to let spinning wire cup hit your bare hand or it will instantly strip your flesh to the bone. Keep hands away or use leather gloves. All wire cups and wire wheels shed occasional wire bits so you need face mask or at least glasses.
Thanks for the heads up on the stripped flesh!
I do have all the wire wheels (4 1/2 grinder, bench grinder, etc...), but it seems the blasting or electroysis would do a better job with all the little hard to reach areas. I'm trying to justify the setup cost.
demographic
Well-known member
Thanks for the heads up on the stripped flesh!
I do have all the wire wheels (4 1/2 grinder, bench grinder, etc...), but it seems the blasting or electroysis would do a better job with all the little hard to reach areas. I'm trying to justify the setup cost.
You could make a blasting cabinet out of an old oil drum, there's enough designs about on the net.
metal1313
Well-known member
heck you can make a decent one out of plywood and some plexi glass, a few hinges, a tube of glue and some screws and your set. thats my plan
IMO, unless the vise is seized, electrolysis is a waste of time. Sandblasting is the way to go. If you don't own a compressor of decent size, get a wire wheel for an angle grinder or drill.
Electrolysis is a great process, but I think it is a bit lost on big lumps of cast iron.
For the record, I have used electrolysis on at least a dozen vises before I started blasting them. YMMV
Electrolysis is a great process, but I think it is a bit lost on big lumps of cast iron.
For the record, I have used electrolysis on at least a dozen vises before I started blasting them. YMMV
That's kind of what I've been thinking. I mean, I may try the electrolysis just to see for myself...but I can think of so many more things I could do with blasting (like when I start restoring my vintage motorcycle). I have sandblasted in the past, but have never used a cabinet with different types of media. I don't have a huge compressor, but it's a 25 gallon Craftsman that puts out around 6.5cfm @ 90psi.
Anyways, to keep on thread topic...here are my next in line projects...Craftsman & Prentiss
question i have is where r u folks finding replacement screws for the jaws, so far the ones i have found are all too long
my columbian c43, went through a vinegar bath for a day, as well as degreasing bath, hopfully tomorrow ill get around to putting a wire wheel to the pieces, then after that paint
my columbian c43, went through a vinegar bath for a day, as well as degreasing bath, hopfully tomorrow ill get around to putting a wire wheel to the pieces, then after that paint
Last edited:
6530
Well-known member
Big & little.
JustBob
Well-known member
Here's one I did over the weekend. It's a cheapy Taiwan that wouldn't work at all and the previous owner was gonna scrap it. Took it apart, beadblasted it, primed it, and painted it John Deere green/yellow. Greased her up and she works good as new!
I never would have thought of those colors for an Omega vise, but they work!
Now I need to figure out what color to paint mine...NCCheesehead
Well-known member
Here's one I did over the weekend. It's a cheapy Taiwan that wouldn't work at all and the previous owner was gonna scrap it. Took it apart, beadblasted it, primed it, and painted it John Deere green/yellow. Greased her up and she works good as new!
After seeing how yours turned out I dug this one out from under my bench.
Turning the handle did nothing, and so I took it apart and found this
Any chance that the "nut" is available or is it trash?
I could use some help with my vise. It was handed down to me some years ago and has been in the family for probably 35+ years.
First off anyone know about FSB brand vises? Besides the 1504 and Japan marking I know nothing about it. I would like to know some history, it's true age and if it's known to be a quality piece (seems to me to be).
I also have a small problem with the jaws not closing evenly. You can see how far I can wedge in a playing cards when the jaws are tightened pretty snugly. Any idea how to fix this?
A sharp eye will notice one end of the moving jaw is loose. The thread in the jaw is stripped. Should I move up a size and drill and tap or should I heli-coil it?
Thanks for any help you can provide!
-Scott
OKC, OK
First off anyone know about FSB brand vises? Besides the 1504 and Japan marking I know nothing about it. I would like to know some history, it's true age and if it's known to be a quality piece (seems to me to be).
I also have a small problem with the jaws not closing evenly. You can see how far I can wedge in a playing cards when the jaws are tightened pretty snugly. Any idea how to fix this?
A sharp eye will notice one end of the moving jaw is loose. The thread in the jaw is stripped. Should I move up a size and drill and tap or should I heli-coil it?
Thanks for any help you can provide!
-Scott
OKC, OK
NCCheesehead
Well-known member
I was thinking I should do that. Send me your shipping info
First of all, welcome to the forum from one newbie to another!
I personally don't know anything about your vise
... but there is a good chance somebody on here might.I have found, tracking any info on imported stuff is very challenging.
As far as the quality, just because it's from Japan doesn't necessarily make it a less quality piece...just not as desirable or valuable...at least on this forum.
I also have a small problem with the jaws not closing evenly. You can see how far I can wedge in a playing cards when the jaws are tightened pretty snugly. Any idea how to fix this?
A sharp eye will notice one end of the moving jaw is loose. The thread in the jaw is stripped. Should I move up a size and drill and tap or should I heli-coil it?
Thanks for any help you can provide!
-Scott
OKC, OK
For the jaw insert, even JB weld could be fine. It does not take much strength. If you decide to drill and tap, moving up as little as possible will preserve strength. You might even go metric if you need to.
As for the alignment, take the inserts out and see how the jaws line up. You will need a spacer to check parallelism, a ruler should suffice. I'm wondering if the loose insert isn't throwing the alignment off on everything.
Nice vise BTW, looks like it is a stout little thing.