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Torque Wrench..300+lbs..?

Bulldog13

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I was replacing a front hub on my kid's Jeep today..Hayne's manual said the torque on the front hub nut was 275lbs.----crazy...I had to use a breaker bar and the handle off my floor jack to break the nut free.My torque wrench only goes to 150 lbs. I'm not a big dude and don't have a friend the size of Andre the Giant.Is this for real...I took it for a ride after I was done..everything seems ok so far...
 
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BillK

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bt,
Take it to a shop that has the correct torque wrench or a torque multiplier and have it tightened properly. Do you want the wheel on your kids Jeep falling off at 60 mph :(
 

Jack Olsen

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I'm not a big dude, either. But the axle nuts on my track car have to be tightened to 340 foot pounds. It's actually pretty simple to do.

Since 100 pounds of force applied one foot out from the nut will give you 100 pounds of torque, I worked out the point on a cheater bar where my body weight would be multiplied correctly to get me 340 foot pounds of torque. It was 25" from the nut.

I also used a few pieces of wood to keep the extension level with the nut. As I understand it, it's important to apply the weight with the handle/cheater-bar level.

Torque1288727958.jpg
 
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Bulldog13

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Thats the way I had to tighten it...used the long handle off my floor Jack.I put a 12 in extention on the breaker bar and cranked on it...I dont think I could get it any tighter.My impact gun's kinda weak so that was no help...I was worried about snapping the nut on the shaft.
 

johnsdeere850j

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get something called a torque multiplier most are 4:1 reduction, and then multiply your torque wrench input setting by 4 and add 10% or so and you're pretty close.. or a big torque wrench haha.
 

Charles (in GA)

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275 lb/ft or even the 340 lb/ft that Jack has to pull is not all that difficult. We do that at work all the time with a 3/4 drive torque wrench on aircraft wheel axle nuts. B767 torques initially to 500 to 600 lb/ft to seat the bearings and brake assembly (which is sandwiched behind the wheel) and then it is backed off and re-torqued to 150 lb/ft.

Just get a 3/4 drive torque wrench and do it right. As others have noted, if this is a one time thing, have someone torque it properly for you.

Charles
 

Jack Olsen

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You can also go to any place that works on trucks. They'll be set up with those kind of torque wrenches.
 

briggsguy17

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Harmonic balancer bolt on a duramax diesel is 265. My wrench only goes to 250 and believe me that is enough on a 1/2 wrench! :shocking:
 

larry_g

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Its perty simple to do this. You need 275 ft/ lbs of torque. You weight 150 pounds. Divide the 275/150 to get 1.84' or 22". Use a 24" breaker bar, make a mark at 22" and center you foot over the mark and stand on it with the bar parallel to the ground. You will have your fastener torqued.

lg
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38D

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I'm not a big dude, either. But the axle nuts on my track car have to be tightened to 340 foot pounds. It's actually pretty simple to do.

Funny, I've always used the metric number which is 460Nm

I've used the method Jack described with my 964 cup and found it never was as tight as using an actual torque wrench. So you might want to add a bit for safety. Loose hubs nuts are no fun.
 

durallymax

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Harmonic balancer bolt on a duramax diesel is 265. My wrench only goes to 250 and believe me that is enough on a 1/2 wrench! :shocking:

Not always. Many different bolts there.

260lb-ft is one spec
278lb-ft is another
74lb-ft and 105 degrees is the other spec for the torque to yeild

Now I havent gotten a straight answer out of anybody how to tell the difference and such.

You can also go to any place that works on trucks. They'll be set up with those kind of torque wrenches.

x2.


The 3/4" wrench I have is a KD tools one from NAPA, goes to 600lb-ft which works well for our farm. The highest we have to torque is 600lb-ft on our haybines cutterbars.
 

johnsdeere850j

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Not always. Many different bolts there.

260lb-ft is one spec
278lb-ft is another
74lb-ft and 105 degrees is the other spec for the torque to yeild

Now I havent gotten a straight answer out of anybody how to tell the difference and such.



x2.


The 3/4" wrench I have is a KD tools one from NAPA, goes to 600lb-ft which works well for our farm. The highest we have to torque is 600lb-ft on our haybines cutterbars.

You had to do your water pump already or you thinking ahead for it I guess??
 
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durallymax

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You had to do your water pump already or you thinking ahead for it I guess??

I work on duramaxes on the side. Done plenty of water pumps as the scare a lot of people but its actually pretty easy and I have step by step instructions with pictures on other sites.
 

johnsdeere850j

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I work on duramaxes on the side. Done plenty of water pumps as the scare a lot of people but its actually pretty easy and I have step by step instructions with pictures on other sites.

Awesome, good for you on helpin other people with the pictures. I did the one on my 05 chevy, it wasn't too bad. Lot easier on the cummins motor though haha my 03 fat bottom girl dually you can pop that water pump out in 2 minutes.
 

nate379

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36mm nut that holds the axle stub to the unit bearing?

I gun those down with the impact and don't worry about it.
 
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Jack Olsen

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To the OP, though -- all you have to do is put your 150 pounds on the wrench 22" from the nut. A 3/4" ratchet with a long handle would be the best choice, but even a 1/2" breaker bar would do it. Get it so that when you apply your weight, the bar tightens and is horizontal.

A foot pound is a foot pound. Your weight on a bar is going to be more accurate than a lot of the torque wrenches out there.
 

Moose-LandTran

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36mm nut that holds the axle stub to the unit bearing?

I gun those down with the impact and don't worry about it.

^^^ thats what i do :dunno:

Same as just about everyone..

My main exception being some never VW-Audi cars, they have a 36mm hub nut but the thread on the end of the CV joint is small and i've seen a couple people gun the nuts down and cause the threaded end to break off the CV joint. Those driveshafts aint cheap either. :(
 

scott37300

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This is an interesting thread. I recently came across an older USA made 3/4" TCI torque wrench that goes to 600 ft/lbs and is 4 feet long so I shouldn't need to do any math but it's still pretty interesting to know!

So if you do the math and figure out 22" or whatever, does it make a difference if you stand in the middle of the line or on oneside? Seems like if you are off by an inch it would make a pretty big difference in torque?
 

tatra

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general rule of thumb for torque is minimum preload plus 90 degrees..........this in all liklihood would be low but should be ok to get you a place to check correct torque.........
 
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Bulldog13

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Thanks guys...I went with Jack's formula..I dont think its gonna back off with the cap and cotter pin holding too.I bought it off a kid who stuck a lift on it and basically monkeyed the whole thing up.I've replaced basically all the front suspension..my kids getting his license in June and I'm trying to get it ready for the road.I've had 3 other XJ's and they ran forever...
 

zmotorsports

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Personally I wouldn't use an impact to install this nut. I have replaced several bearings over the last couple of years that had very little time/miles on them due to failure. After talking with the owners I discovered the last shop had tightened them with impacts.

I went to a bearing seminar last year and they talked about this very topic and there are a lot of warranty claims for bearings and they are discovering that they are being installed incorrectly(torqued). They told me they can tell by the pattern developed on the races and the balls that they have way too much axial pressure excerted on them. They are denying warranty claims for bearings in which are installed by using improper torque.

The torque specifications for MOST of the front axle nuts is anywhere from 185 ft/lbs. to 285 ft./lbs. and an impact gun can impose well over 500 ft./lbs. and some nearing 700 ft./lbs.

I have never had a failure by installing these bearings to the correct torque specification. I use an impact for removal, however, I would not suggest using one for assembly. Mike.
 
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