Cotter pin

[mikester]

We've all been using them for years but has anyone noticed how other folks install them ? How do you guys finish them off with a castle nut ? Ive always spread both ends and bent the ends around with a pair of pliers after Ive cut the pin. I see a lot of guys bent one end over the top and leave the other end straight but short. Is there a "proper" way ?

 

[mrbreezeet1]

I bend one end over the top and leave the other end straight but short.
or sometimes the short end I will bend or hammer down over the castle nut, sort of steak it in place.
Don't know about a "proper" way. Don't think it really matters, as long as it cant come out and don't damage anything
Thanks,
Tony

 

[mdbeck1]

Slide it through, split and bend both back and around. ...unless of course it will hit some moving part then cut them off short of the moving part.

 

[sstruckguy]

Since it is actually the fat side of the pin that does the work, it would seem it doesn't matter much.

I know I am pretty particular when it comes to the finished "look".

Samples of internet proper:

I couldn't find "my" preferred installation, but the way most factory auto makers bend them so one of the flats is bent over the stub is my standard.

 

[airbuff101]

I install them both ways depending on use.....or whim

The important thing is a nice fit that conforms around or over nut and that the ends are tapped in close so they can't later catch human flesh.

like safety wiring, it's an enjoyable art.

airbuff

 

[reinhardt]

i try to avoid cotter pins, i hate bending them and trying to get them out latter. i like to throw a quick tack weld on the nut/stud to lock it in.

ben

 

[airbuff101]

i try to avoid cotter pins, i hate bending them and trying to get them out latter. i like to throw a quick tack weld on the nut/stud to lock it in.

ben

Yipes!
How's the Next guy feel about that?

airbuff

 

[mikester]

I really didnt think most guys would even reply to this post since its such an **** thing but Ive seen guys just stick the pin through the hole, give a quick bend to one side and snip the rest off and leave the pin slipping around in the hole. I cant see that working for long. But then again Ive seen a few guys use nails !!

 

[Moose-LandTran]

i try to avoid cotter pins, i hate bending them and trying to get them out latter. i like to throw a quick tack weld on the nut/stud to lock it in.

ben

I have a solution for you! Behold, the R-clip!

 

[airbuff101]

I have a solution for you! Behold, the R-clip!

Jesus! That's quite a clip!

airbuff

 

[OccupantRJ]

There is also a hammerlock version of cotter key.

http://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl...i&sa=N&biw=981&bih=632&tbs=isch:1&um=1&itbs=1

 

[mrbreezeet1]

I really didnt think most guys would even reply to this post since its such an **** thing but Ive seen guys just stick the pin through the hole, give a quick bend to one side and snip the rest off and leave the pin slipping around in the hole. I cant see that working for long. But then again Ive seen a few guys use nails !!

We will reply to anything,
I got the toilet paper thread going again......LOL
Thanks,
Tony

 

[mrbreezeet1]

There is also a hammerlock version of cotter key.

http://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl...i&sa=N&biw=981&bih=632&tbs=isch:1&um=1&itbs=1

How does that work, what are the advantages?
Thanks, Tony

 

[Stephenw]

I bend the end over the top and trim the lower piece short.

I use a diagonal cutter to pull them out.

 

[OccupantRJ]

How does that work, what are the advantages?
Thanks, Tony

They are designed to put in place and tap the eye end with a hammer to lock in place by one leg ramping up on the other. I still bend them anyway. Just pointing out other options.

 

[mrbreezeet1]

They are designed to put in place and tap the eye end with a hammer to lock in place by one leg ramping up on the other. I still bend them anyway. Just pointing out other options.

I'll be darned, never knew that. Yeah, I would probably bend them too.
Thanks,

 

[mrbreezeet1]

I bend the end over the top and trim the lower piece short.

I use a diagonal cutter to pull them out.

Yeah, **** I guess, But I do it the same way on a tie rod end/ball joint , but then sometimes I go like this
Thanks,
Tony

 

[Scout Driver]

This is the method that I use. Tractors and equipment use tons of them. (photo borrowed from sstruckguy)

Scott

 

[mrbreezeet1]

This is the method that I use. Tractors and equipment use tons of them. (photo borrowed from sstruckguy)

Scott

Well Years ago when I 1st got my PA state Inspection, They told us that was the way they wanted it in front bearing hubs, like on drum brakes, on the rear wheel drive cars.
They said we were not allowed to do it the other way, like on the tie rod end above.
Said it could "Pull out" I don't really see how it could, but that's what they told us.
Tony

 

[442]

33 years of fixing cars and trucks I have used all the methods already mentioned. I have a following of repeat customers and I never seen one fallout. I never used a nail and I never tack welded a nut or bolt on, that would only make it extremely difficult if it needed to be removed again.

 

[Dale B]

You should have asked him to show you how it would pull out . Lets not forget , it's only purpose is to prevent the castle nut from unscrewing . a loop of baling wire WOULD work , but not look real good .It provides no torque or holding power of its own......

 

[willysrule]

Tack welding anything with bearings nearby is a bad idea, depending on where your path-of-least-resistance to ground is you could arc off the bearing surface and ruin it…I wouldn’t suggest it…

when welding near bearings at work we make sure we isolate the ground close to the work area...

 

[mrbreezeet1]

You should have asked him to show you how it would pull out . Lets not forget , it's only purpose is to prevent the castle nut from unscrewing . a loop of baling wire WOULD work , but not look real good .It provides no torque or holding power of its own......

Yeah, I told my boss, and in his Greek accent, he said
"Yeah they want you to do it the ***** way"
We usually did it like on the tie rod end and still do usually. never had a problem either.
Thanks,
Tony

 

[Stephenw]

Well Years ago when I 1st got my PA state Inspection, They told us that was the way they wanted it in front bearing hubs, like on drum brakes, on the rear wheel drive cars.
They said we were not allowed to do it the other way, like on the tie rod end above.
Said it could "Pull out" I don't really see how it could, but that's what they told us.
Tony

There is no way it could possibly pull out, especially with a grease cap on top of it.

 

[jay50]

i try to avoid cotter pins, i hate bending them and trying to get them out latter. i like to throw a quick tack weld on the nut/stud to lock it in.

ben

what you been drinking...or smoking tonight

 

[nissan_crawler]

At work, we're only allowed to do it two ways:

This way for clearance...

Yeah, **** I guess, But I do it the same way on a tie rod end/ball joint , but then sometimes I go like this
Thanks,
Tony

And the way tony posted in the attached image. Long leg bent over the bolt/stud, short end bent over the nut, cut to where it touched the washer.

Cutting the short end off and leaving it straight in the castellated nut is a no-no for us.

 

[reinhardt]

quick update, i only posted my previous comment for humor purposes to see what people would respond with. the irony of the ****-ality (is that a word?) of the thread vs. a very b.s. answer. anywho.

ben

 

[formek]

i try to avoid cotter pins, i hate bending them and trying to get them out latter. i like to throw a quick tack weld on the nut/stud to lock it in.

ben

Hay where do you work? I dont want to break down out side your place. lol

 

[NUTTSGT]

This would be the way I do it too, thanks for the picture.

 

[steven083008]

Either like the picture posted by sstruckguy or I just fold both ends over the top (like some are saying they do w/ only one end.) I don't trim anything, there's no need in most of the applications I deal w/.

 

[APEowner]

About 25 years ago I was killing time in the library of the CW Post Campus of Long Island University and I ran across an SAE paper that covered this very topic. According to that paper the correct method is the one Tony posted with the long leg bent over the bolt/stud and the short end bent over the nut, cut to where it touches the washer. That sticks in my mind because of where I was when I read it, the fact that I was bored enough to be reading an SAE paper and because that's not how I had been doing it prior to then.

 

[Greatbear]

In some cases I substitute a roll pin for a cotter. The roll pin is reusable, and does not tend to rattle around in assemblies that vibrate or otherwise in motion.

 

[reinhardt]

occasionaly i take it one step further. rather than a pin, i tap the hole for a 1/4-20 bolt. dab of locktite to keep from backing out. much easier to remove than those pesky cotter pins.

ben

 

[mikester]

About 25 years ago I was killing time in the library of the CW Post Campus of Long Island University and I ran across an SAE paper that covered this very topic. According to that paper the correct method is the one Tony posted with the long leg bent over the bolt/stud and the short end bent over the nut, cut to where it touches the washer. That sticks in my mind because of where I was when I read it, the fact that I was bored enough to be reading an SAE paper and because that's not how I had been doing it prior to then.

Wow, CW Post, a place that I remember well. Not as a student but I was there at least 3 times a week. I went out with a girl the spent 4 years there. Spent many nights in Queens Hall. I saw Bruce Springsteen, Charlie Daniels, Billy Joel at the dome. Nice school, great memories ! I used to drive in on Friday night after work, spend the night, get up at 4 AM and drive home to go to work from 5 to 12 and then go back and do it again on Sat. Those were the days !!

 

[Alchymist]

Saw a piece of farm machinery where someone put bailing wire through the hole, bent it over the top and twisted the ends together. Must have worked because it had been there for years.

 

[Printer Mike]

When I bend them I give some thought to possibly having to reuse the same pin later on.

 

[Stephenw]

When I bend them I give some thought to possibly having to reuse the same pin later on.

Cotters are dirt cheap and intended for one time use only.

 

[Printer Mike]

Cotters are dirt cheap and intended for one time use only.

Agreed, but a used one is better than nothing.

 

[mrbreezeet1]

Cotters are dirt cheap and intended for one time use only.

Yes, but some times ya gotta do what ya gotta do when I was working somewhere where there too cheap to buy anything.
We got 100's of them where I work now though.
Thanks,
Tony

 

[PCO6]

I have a solution for you! Behold, the R-clip!

Another name for these is "presto pins". As for cotter pins, I do mine like the photo sstruckguy posted.