Hydraulic hose fittings for air compressor setup

[bmwpower]

So, I'm gonna buy this hose to connect my compressor to my wall mounted filter/regulator. It's got 3/4" Male NPT ends:

http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_6970_53979_53979

I want to add at least one swivel end to make it easier to remove/reattach this hose to the setup. Which swivel adapter do I need? It seems like all the straight swivel adapters are NPSM not NPT.

http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/CatDsp?No=0&Ne=2&storeId=6970&N=96 1499

 

[wilbilt]

The NPSM is what you need. They are straight threads, not tapered, because on a swivel, the pipe does not seal against the threads. The end of the pipe seals against the "ball" inside the swivel.

 

[Junkman]

Check with a local auto parts dealer to see if they make hydraulic hoses. If they don't, there is someone near by that does. I have all mine done locally, and they will make it any length that I require, along with whatever type of end that I specify. In the end, it might be a slight bit more expensive, but you will have exactly what you want and need. If you are not certain of exactly what it is that you need, bring the parts that you are trying to attach together into the store, and they will figure it out for you. You can also get hydraulic hose with a steel braided outer covering if you feel that you need the extra protection from it blowing out, but I don't think that is a concern with the pressures that you are using. The lower pressure hydraulic hose costs less, so there is no need to waste money on a high pressure hose.

 

[wilbilt]

TSC carries those hoses at comparable prices. I bought a 24" hose and a swivel fitting for about $12.

 

[bmwpower]

TSC carries those hoses at comparable prices. I bought a 24" hose and a swivel fitting for about $12.

Yea, but 24" is too long. I need 3/4" in an 18" length. I don't believe they have that size.

 

[Ign]

Check with a local auto parts dealer to see if they make hydraulic hoses. If they don't, there is someone near by that does.

This is also how I would approach it, and how I had all flex hoses made for my shop air system.

 

[bmwpower]

Ok. So I got a bunch of numbers out of the phone book and I'm going to call them tomorrow. Turns out I need a 13" long hose, so 18" is going to be too long. Sounds like it's custom time....

 

[jimmycrackcorn]

Steel braided might be over kill but it does look cool

 

[Junkman]

Steel braided might be over kill but it does look cool

I love to help others spend their money.......

 

[bmwpower]

Ok...got the hose...finally

Found this place, thru calling a couple places that no longer made hoses.

http://www.vanairhydraulic.com/parkerstore.htm

Boy, I could have spend a bunch of time in there, but had to get to work. The guy made the hose in like 30 seconds. I was impressed.

I ended up going with 250 psi hose, one press-fit swivel, one press-fit rigid. the guy said I'll never have a problem and it's overkill for what I will need...plus it was cheaper, so I went with it. Compressor should be running tonight!

 

[1320stang]

 

[boiler7904]

Since BMWPower found his solution, I'll throw this idea out for others in the future. A lot if not most heavy construction equipment dealers have the ability to make custom hoses in their service department - not likely cheap but it's another option.

 

[MXtras]

A lot if not most heavy construction equipment dealers have the ability to make custom hoses in their service department...

A lot of them have a mobile unit with hose equipment on site, too.

A lot of NAPA stores make crimped hydraulic hoses and it's not all that expensive. A few years back, I had a new hose made up for a pressure washer and NAPA made it for me cheaper than I could find it already made.

Scott

 

[wilbilt]

Ditto that!

 

[1320stang]

Back in '86 I had a '67 Mustang 'vert with a power top, but no hoses. The top had recently been replaced and I assume they dumped the hoses then. I had no idea what the original hoses looked like or what kind of pressure they made. My dad told me to figure out the fitting sizes, measure the lengths and go down to Napa. I did and came back with some small crimped hydraulic hoses that were probably good to about 500 psi, but cost about $40 as I recall (4 hoses I think). Come to find out, the replacement hoses were just some clear plastic line with some ferrels on the ends and the kit was about $75, LOL!!!

 

[bmwpower]

Geez louise, give me a chance to shove my dinner down boys!

Picts to come.

I hooked everything up and fired it up before dinner. Might have some leaks somewhere, will investigate.

Blipped the Ti gun a couple of times to make sure air was actually flowing ...we're good to go.

 

[Charles (in GA)]

We have a Parker Store close to the ATL airport. It really is a place you almost cannot leave. I'll wager they can make hose with fittings that other places have to special order in.

Charles

 

[bmwpower]

Alright, here's my setup. I just got done flushing the old pump oil with some Quin-Cip oil, then I refilled with fresh fluid. I still have to replace that copper tubing, but it should work in the meantime. Craftsman 30 gallon ear bleeder is gone...sold to my friend for $50.

Fittings are 3/4" as are the filter and regulator...Both made by Arrow.

 

[ImportTuner]

Very nice setup ... I'm impressed ... it's sooooo clean ...

 

[bmwpower]

Very nice setup ... I'm impressed ... it's sooooo clean ...

Thanks! Now I just have to plumb the rest of the garage so I can mount my hose reels that have been sitting on my floor for 3-4 years. So tired of jockeying that hose on the ground...

 

[wilbilt]

Clean. Is that push-on hose?

It looks like the length came out just right.

 

[bmwpower]

Clean. Is that push-on hose?

It looks like the length came out just right.

Yea, it's push on. Guy said it would work fine, so I trusted him. He seemed to know his stuff. If I ever need to lengthen the hose, just get a new piece of hose and reuse the ends. Sounded good to me. Good to 250 psi.

 

[sctattooer]

wouldnt it make sense to have the filter/regulator more toward the end of the run? I'm getting ready to plumb my shop for air, and I'm following this diagram:

airline piping diagram


Not criticizing at all, it's a nice looking setup. We have MAJOR humidity here.

 

[bmwpower]

wouldnt it make sense to have the filter/regulator more toward the end of the run? I'm getting ready to plumb my shop for air, and I'm following this diagram:

airline piping diagram


Not criticizing at all, it's a nice looking setup. We have MAJOR humidity here.

No, I agree. But the end of my run right now is the end of the hose attached to the regulator. When I plumb things out completely, I will probably move the filter/reg around or add more filter/regs.

Oh, and Junkman, not sure if it's the new Quin-Cip oil or my hearing, but it seems as though the unloaders are no longer leaking. A couple tank cycles and they stopped leaking. I still have yet to put the compressor through it's paces. I guess I have to find something to die grind.

 

[Junkman]

.................

Oh, and Junkman, not sure if it's the new Quin-Cip oil or my hearing, but it seems as though the unloaders are no longer leaking. A couple tank cycles and they stopped leaking. I still have yet to put the compressor through it's paces. I guess I have to find something to die grind.

I have no idea why you would want to use Quin-Cip oil in a compressor with a tank that is labeled Ingersol ??????

 

[bmwpower]

I have no idea why you would want to use Quin-Cip oil in a compressor with a tank that is labeled Ingersol ??????

Went out this morning... it was leaking again... I don't know what is up with this thing. Time to email my Quincy rep to see what he thinks. I swear it wasn't leaking last night. If it wasn't for the freaking leak this thing would be air tight.

Yea, I guess I should paint over the label so not to confuse anyone. Besides, I could use another big blue thing in my garage.

 

[wilbilt]

Went out this morning... it was leaking again... I don't know what is up with this thing. Time to email my Quincy rep to see what he thinks. I swear it wasn't leaking last night. If it wasn't for the freaking leak this thing would be air tight.

I don't get it. Is the big brass fitting at the top of the tank not a check valve? If the check valve is good, how can the tank be leaking down via the head unloader(s)?

The check valve on my compressor leaks. If I remove the compresor-to-tank line with the tank full, I can hear the leak and feel the air if I put my thumb over the top of the valve. I can live with it until I can replace it. About $25 from MSC the last time I checked.

 

[bmwpower]

I don't get it. Is the big brass fitting at the top of the tank not a check valve? If the check valve is good, how can the tank be leaking down via the head unloader(s)?

The check valve on my compressor leaks. If I remove the compresor-to-tank line with the tank full, I can hear the leak and feel the air if I put my thumb over the top of the valve. I can live with it until I can replace it. About $25 from MSC the last time I checked.

I wrote my Quincy rep. The guy filling in for him today wrote this (please excuse the caps...I guess he likes to yell):

"WHEN THE PUMP SHUTS OFF (NO OIL PRESSURE) THERE WILL BE PRESSURE SENT TO THE TOP OF THE HEAD UNLOADERS AT ALL TIMES. IF THIS IS WHEN THE “LEAK” OCCURS THEN YOU NEED TO REPLACE THE DIAPHRAGM(S) UNDER THE CAPS. WHEN YOU HAVE AN AIR SIGNAL AT THE TOP OF THE UNLOADERS THE SUCTION VALVES WILL BE HELD OPEN THUS WHEN THE PUMP RESTARTS THE INTAKE VALVES HAVE TO BE RELEIVED OF THAT PRESSURE TO ALLOW THE PUMP TO LOAD. THE VALVE ON THE SIDE OF THE CRANKCASE IS CALLED A HYDRAULIC UNLOADER AND IF IT IS BAD IT NORMALLY WILL NOT ALLOW THE PUMP TO RELOAD. (ALWAYS LETS AIR FLOW THROUGH TO THE HEAD UNLOADER(S) IT WORKS ON OIL PRESSURE FROM THE CRANKSHAFT."

 

[Junkman]

When you communicate with him the next time, please ask him to explain this in simpler terms....... Also ask him if it is possible to add an oil filter to your compressor, and if he has a part number for the QUINCY logo label for your tank.... The Quincy color is the same blue as Ford Engine Blue and Bend Pak Blue...

 

[wilbilt]

That's interesting. Basing the unload on oil pressure (or the lack of it) is a good idea, but why operate the unloaders on tank pressure (instead of the lack of it)?

Trying to wrap my head around it.

 

[bmwpower]

When you communicate with him the next time, please ask him to explain this in simpler terms....... Also ask him if it is possible to add an oil filter to your compressor, and if he has a part number for the QUINCY logo label for your tank.... The Quincy color is the same blue as Ford Engine Blue and Bend Pak Blue...

I hope I just didn't ruin my holiday weekend, but when I went to start up the compressor tonight, the pump would not load. I tried a couple of times - no dice. Not sure if I should let it run for long with no oil pressure. Not sure if it's like a car.

I'm guessing this has something to do with the oil change, as it was not happening before I changed to Quin-Cip. Maybe the PO was trying to cover something up by using a different oil. All guesses. All I know is my unloaders leak and the pump does not pressurize now....

 

[bmwpower]

When you communicate with him the next time, please ask him to explain this in simpler terms....... Also ask him if it is possible to add an oil filter to your compressor, and if he has a part number for the QUINCY logo label for your tank.... The Quincy color is the same blue as Ford Engine Blue and Bend Pak Blue...

Oil filter housing is $$$... I already checked. Something like $500 or more.

See above. Gotta fix my problems before I start painting things that don't work.

 

[wilbilt]

So if I read the rep's response correctly, the unloader diaphragms need to be vented before the pump will load. I assume the unloader valve does this when the oil pressure builds up.

So either the valve is not venting the unloader diaphragms or the oil pressure is not coming up.

If the diaphragms are leaking, causing your pressure loss, they should aready be vented and the pump should load. The pressure gauge on your pump looks like it is mounted to the unloader valve. Does it indicate tank pressure, or unloader line pressure?

 

[bmwpower]

So if I read the rep's response correctly, the unloader diaphragms need to be vented before the pump will load. I assume the unloader valve does this when the oil pressure builds up.

So either the valve is not venting the unloader diaphragms or the oil pressure is not coming up.

If the diaphragms are leaking, causing your pressure loss, they should aready be vented and the pump should load. The pressure gauge on your pump looks like it is mounted to the unloader valve. Does it indicate tank pressure, or unloader line pressure?

I think that's right.

It indicates crankcase pressure.

 

[wilbilt]

I think that's right.

It indicates crankcase pressure.

So it's an oil pressure gauge? What does it do when you turn on the compressor?

 

[bmwpower]

So it's an oil pressure gauge? What does it do when you turn on the compressor?

Right now, it doesn't do anything. Dead zero. It's supposed to start building pressure and then when it reaches 15 psi of oil pressure, the pump starts to load...ie, loadless starting... happens in about 3 seconds.

I talked to the Quincy guy a couple of times back and forth via email before the holiday. He had a couple of suggestions. One of which was to remove the oil pump cover and fill any open spaces with grease. I tried that, but it didn't make any difference. Then he told me to remove the oil pressure guage and fill the hole up with oil. Well, the hole was already full.

So now now I'm sitting with a compressor ready to use and it doesn't friggin work. Any ideas?

All of this after an oil change. Any ideas?

Time to make another thread....

 

[Junkman]

1) remove the oil pump cover and fill any open spaces with grease

2) remove the oil pressure guage and fill the hole up with oil

3) If non of these ideas work, call or email the Quincy rep
4) Make another thread............

 

[bmwpower]

1) remove the oil pump cover and fill any open spaces with grease

2) remove the oil pressure guage and fill the hole up with oil

3) If non of these ideas work, call or email the Quincy rep
4) Make another thread............

Thanks for being sooo helpful. I thought you were supposed to be some sort of Quincy expert? I haven't heard you give me a good tip yet. Do you even use your compressor anymore? I was hoping you'd have fixed my problem already. Now I might have to pay Quincy to come to my house to fix the problem. I never should have listened to your recommendation...dang.

Anyone ELSE have some HELPFUL ideas?

 

[Junkman]

Thanks for all the support. I think that you got even with me today, because someone sent me a Trojan Horse that wrecked my computer. I spent the day looking for a way to fix the damage that it has caused, without any luck. Now, the computer sits in the corner of the room looking like a rejected child waiting to go to the orphanage. Having used that computer for 5 years without a problem, all my important information is located on the hard drive that is no longer accessible. My guess is that you will have your compressor up and running before I have my old computer back in service.
In the meantime, I will look for my service manual and see if I can find anything in there for suggestions. My best guess is that there is a internal check valve that is stuck in the open position. I would remove the 1/4" copper line and make sure that it is not clogged. I believe that this line is supposed to be the part that opens and closes the mechanism that determines if the oil pump is on or off. I know that with mine, there is a valve that I can turn when a lot of air is being used, so the motor continues to turn the pulleys but the compressor isn't compressing air all the time.

 

[eschoendorff]

Thanks for all the support. I think that you got even with me today, because someone sent me a Trojan Horse that wrecked my computer. I spent the day looking for a way to fix the damage that it has caused, without any luck. Now, the computer sits in the corner of the room looking like a rejected child waiting to go to the orphanage. Having used that computer for 5 years without a problem, all my important information is located on the hard drive that is no longer accessible. My guess is that you will have your compressor up and running before I have my old computer back in service.

Same thing happened to me yesterday!!!!!!! So, i am posting from my brand new iMac.....