dcm5652
Active member
Turn a grove at each end for an o-ring (rubber) then press it in and it can be easily removed if ever needed.
Above 1200 Sq/FT Restored 1930's Auto Shop
- Thread starter BB767
- Start date
Wokspaces above 1200 squarefeet.
mdbeck1
Well-known member
You could use the same groove with the aforementioned set screw. Just put the set screw in enough to hold the pin in and loose enough that the pin could turn.
Just a thought....
DZL JIM
Well-known member
You can get V pointed set screws, so a V groove all around the pin would still allow it to rotate. Instead of 2 stacked set screws, just a dab of blue Loctite.
If you're set on peening, it would probably only be another 50 years before it needs to come out again.
Superlifted06FX4
Well-known member
And yet GM, in all their wisdom, flushed all that history down the ........
Don't get me s t a r t e d!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Thomas
I know. It made me a sad.
There is no question all sorts of re-engineering could be done. I look at my other Walker and for 60 years that pin has been peened and as they say "it works good and lasts a long time". I can reinstall my new pin, as is, and have it peened and done in about 30 seconds. If it were necessary to do something else I wouldn't hesitate. Just because you can do something else is no reason you should.
Thank you so much everyone for taking time and effort to help me out on this. After much contemplation, I believe I'll follow the Walker engineers original lead here and just secure the pin by slightly peening it in a couple of spots and move on.
I am truly grateful and appreciative to everyone. One of the reasons this thread is as informative as it is, I think, is because of all the contributions from all of you.
On to the next........
Thomas
hobbitss
Well-known member
There is no question all sorts of re-engineering could be done. I look at my other Walker and for 60 years that pin has been peened and as they say "it works good and lasts a long time". I can reinstall my new pin, as is, and have it peened and done in about 30 seconds. If it were necessary to do something else I wouldn't hesitate. Just because you can do something else is no reason you should.
Thank you so much everyone for taking time and effort to help me out on this. After much contemplation, I believe I'll follow the Walker engineers original lead here and just secure the pin by slightly peening it in a couple of spots and move on.
I am truly grateful and appreciative to everyone. One of the reasons this thread is as informative as it is, I think, is because of all the contributions from all of you.
On to the next........
Thomas
Wait!!!!
As I understand it the pin has a shoulder on one end and the pin will go into the center arm from either side and still clear the side arms...
If this is true you can create a removable shoulder for the side that doesn't have one using a washer or hand made plate that matches the turned shoulder and attaching it using a flat-head screw...
You will only need to shorten and then drill & tap the pin and countersink the removable shoulder for your this to work.......
Did you make a spare pin when you fabricated the original??????
Maybe try it on the old pin first????
Maybe then do it to both ends of the old pin????
Tools, tools, tools... I love tools....
hobbitss
Well-known member
And yet GM, in all their wisdom, flushed all that history down the ........
Don't get me s t a r t e d!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Thomas
smrflng said:
I'm still pissed at GM about that... Still getting e-mails about my 96 Bonneville and discount offers on new Buicks etc....
Still fondly remember my other Oldsmobile & Pontiac rides...
Arrggggg can't talk about it...
Last edited:
hobbitss
Well-known member
to GreyOwl...maxwedge
Active member
For the love of god people, if the man wants to peen it, just let him peen it. It will probably work just fine, takes 12 seconds, and doesn't require a trip to the machine shop and 2 trips to the hardware store.
grizzlyToolz
Banned
- Joined
- Apr 2, 2011
- Messages
- 3,491
This is mouth dropping WOW.
YellowLakeWelding
Well-known member
For the love of god people, if the man wants to peen it, just let him peen it. It will probably work just fine, takes 12 seconds, and doesn't require a trip to the machine shop and 2 trips to the hardware store.
But it's humorous to watch all of this unfold, it's like how people tell me how to spend MY money...that's my favorite thing especially when I buy something I want instead of what they wanted me to buy, some even get upset because because you did it the way you wanted to. Oh well, I think BB has a good handle on what he's doing...hell look at what he's done so far, a hell of a lot more than I have. He pays so much attention to detail with everything he does and it appears that he sticks to the way it was done in the first place as with everything I've seen him do so far. As the old saying goes...if it ain't broke, don't fix it!
mdbeck1
Well-known member
Hey, I'm one of those shooting ideas out. It's his equipment and if he decides to peen it I'm okay with that. I'm just trying to give him another option.
Thomas, I'm sure whatever you do it will be first class and be fully functional. Please keep posting. I check daily (almost).
tcheat
Well-known member
Thomas,
The buyer does, indeed. Sorry to hijack your thread, but I noticed that the Walker that I bought recently made an appearance. I started looking for one after seeing the Walker Greyhounds on this site. The jack is in pretty good shape, but has quite a bit of paint build up. There is no data plate on it, so I'm not certain exactly what model it is.
I plan to restore it when things calm down a bit at work.
It wasn't packaged that well for shipping, though, and the release knob didn't make it. If anyone has one they would be willing to sell, or knows where I can get one, please let me know.
Thanks for this wonderful thread and particularly for the detailed information about your Walker rebuild.
Tim
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Thomas,
The buyer does, indeed. Sorry to hijack your thread, but I noticed that the Walker that I bought recently made an appearance. I started looking for one after seeing the Walker Greyhounds on this site. The jack is in pretty good shape, but has quite a bit of paint build up. There is no data plate on it, so I'm not certain exactly what model it is. Here are a few pictures of it:
I plan to restore it when things calm down a bit at work.
It wasn't packaged that well for shipping, though, and the release knob didn't make it. If anyone has one they would be willing to sell, or knows where I can get one, please let me know.
Thanks for this wonderful thread and particularly for the detailed information about your Walker rebuild.
Tim
Tim, you made my day!! I'll get back with some information and pictures that might help identify your Walker. With the cast steel cover plate I'm pretty sure it's an early one and worthy of your best efforts. I'm out the door and will get back to you on this shortly. Way to go!!
Thomas
hobbitss
Well-known member
Finally found a copy of Car Craft...
What ever happened to those adoption papers???
YellowLakeWelding - Don't listen to people trying to get you to buy things...
Just give the money to me....
What ever happened to those adoption papers???
YellowLakeWelding - Don't listen to people trying to get you to buy things...
Just give the money to me....
GreyOwl
Well-known member
One more pin option for the saddle pin but it would require a bit more machining. Put a groove in the pin for an O-ring or steel snap ring like on an impact wrench that retains the socket. Then maybe a matching groove in the casting also but might not be necessary. Just throwing out ideas.
Charles
Charles
Tim, here's some information for you to look at and I'll need some additional information and or photographs to help you ID what model jack you have. First off, both of mine are model #784, 4 ton jacks as stated by the data plates. One has it's original data plate and the other, older, original paint jack, has a Walker Rebuilt data plate, but it does specify it's a model #784, 4 ton as well.
[/QUOTE]
This photograph is of your right side frame and shows casting number G954. This number is set on a raised rectangular area.
This is a photograph of that same area, right side frame on my original paint jack, the older of the two. It shows a number G904 and is set in a raised rectangular area also.
Here's a photo of my other, newer jack, right side frame. It's the same casting number G904 but it's not set in a raised rectangular area like yours and my older one. I'm going to guess that model 784, 4 ton jacks all have casting number 904 for the right side frame. My first impression is that since yours and mine both have the very rare steel cover plate and casting numbers in raised rectangular areas I would guess they are of the same vintage, early jacks in this series but perhaps different models.
My impression is that the lifting arm on yours is shorter than mine. If so, that would make it either a #782 2 ton "Tom Boy or a 3 ton "Shop Boy" If you were to measure your lifting arm and tell me what points those measurements were taken from I could get you that information off of mine.
Some other items to check...
On the newer jack, Walker changed the way the 2 pistons, (large on right, smaller on left) were pumped.
They used a single point from the handle...
... and then "ganged" the two pistons together. Note the pin that connects the two pistons at top.
If you'll note the older jack on top, has an additional arm on the right side...
...that connects directly with the right side, larger piston.
This photograph is looking toward the rear, so the two pistons are reversed position, the larger piston seen on the left is now connected directly with the handle and not "ganged" with the smaller one.
Lastly you might check to see evidence of a "nose cover" piece ever being installed. I believe only the 4 ton jacks were equipped with this item from what the vintage advertisements show.
There's good news, bad news about your release knob. Bad news it was lost en route. Good news is I'm fairly certain Walker used that same release knob throughout their whole line for many, many years, so there should be several of them out there. If you can find the main casting, the rest can be fabricated easily if need be. Hiball might be able to assist you.
When you get a chance Tim, please check back here with an update.
Thomas
This photograph is of your right side frame and shows casting number G954. This number is set on a raised rectangular area.
This is a photograph of that same area, right side frame on my original paint jack, the older of the two. It shows a number G904 and is set in a raised rectangular area also.
Here's a photo of my other, newer jack, right side frame. It's the same casting number G904 but it's not set in a raised rectangular area like yours and my older one. I'm going to guess that model 784, 4 ton jacks all have casting number 904 for the right side frame. My first impression is that since yours and mine both have the very rare steel cover plate and casting numbers in raised rectangular areas I would guess they are of the same vintage, early jacks in this series but perhaps different models.
My impression is that the lifting arm on yours is shorter than mine. If so, that would make it either a #782 2 ton "Tom Boy or a 3 ton "Shop Boy" If you were to measure your lifting arm and tell me what points those measurements were taken from I could get you that information off of mine.
Some other items to check...
On the newer jack, Walker changed the way the 2 pistons, (large on right, smaller on left) were pumped.
They used a single point from the handle...
... and then "ganged" the two pistons together. Note the pin that connects the two pistons at top.
If you'll note the older jack on top, has an additional arm on the right side...
...that connects directly with the right side, larger piston.
This photograph is looking toward the rear, so the two pistons are reversed position, the larger piston seen on the left is now connected directly with the handle and not "ganged" with the smaller one.
Lastly you might check to see evidence of a "nose cover" piece ever being installed. I believe only the 4 ton jacks were equipped with this item from what the vintage advertisements show.
There's good news, bad news about your release knob. Bad news it was lost en route. Good news is I'm fairly certain Walker used that same release knob throughout their whole line for many, many years, so there should be several of them out there. If you can find the main casting, the rest can be fabricated easily if need be. Hiball might be able to assist you.
When you get a chance Tim, please check back here with an update.
Thomas
The barn, remember the barn? Here are some more details about it. This will show some of the site preparation and grade work detail.
The barn was sited behind the shop in the back corner of the property, just beyond and to the right of the '48 Chevy and the red '63 Ford pickup seen in the back.
Here's a better close up of where it eventually came to be built. The '57 and the red "63 Ford are just south of where it was built and the Monte Carlo would be inside the barn it if we built around it. Note the tree with the bent trunk to the left of the '57, and the trees on either side of the pickup with the recognizable scars on their trunks, you'll see them from time to time.
The vehicles are still there but much clean up has been done and the lane to the barn is just getting started. Note the 2 car garage and red, late 60's Chevy pickup with a topper to the right.
The site for the barn has now been all cleared and clay fill is being brought in (note a pile of clay,back left). The land just beyond the barn site is a little higher elevation so I wanted to raise the site to ensure that I could get good drainage away from the building. When I say that I found everything and the kitchen sink on the property I wasn't kidding. There's a double bowl sink, upside down in the foreground, waiting to become part of the 58 tons (and still growing) of metal recycled off the property.
This is the reverse view to the south, the hedge row trees to the right. You can see how much the site has been built up.
This is looking east. Look close and a string beyond the wood 2X4's are about where the corner will be.
The blue outhouse on the left is almost exactly where the red, '63 Ford truck use to be. Beyond it, note how much higher the site is from the existing grade. Eventually I had 26 tandem truck loads of clay fill brought in build the site up.
This picture is just to help orient you.
This is a great picture to show how much the site (on the right) was built up from the existing grade on the left. Note the specialized truck Morton used to provide a level work platform for the crew.
Another view of that truck. It was a scissors lift with the bed able to elevate and articulate level to a limited degree. Using this they avoided using ladders and were much more productive and in my opinion able to produce better workmanship.
To be continued....
Thomas
The barn was sited behind the shop in the back corner of the property, just beyond and to the right of the '48 Chevy and the red '63 Ford pickup seen in the back.
Here's a better close up of where it eventually came to be built. The '57 and the red "63 Ford are just south of where it was built and the Monte Carlo would be inside the barn it if we built around it. Note the tree with the bent trunk to the left of the '57, and the trees on either side of the pickup with the recognizable scars on their trunks, you'll see them from time to time.
The vehicles are still there but much clean up has been done and the lane to the barn is just getting started. Note the 2 car garage and red, late 60's Chevy pickup with a topper to the right.
The site for the barn has now been all cleared and clay fill is being brought in (note a pile of clay,back left). The land just beyond the barn site is a little higher elevation so I wanted to raise the site to ensure that I could get good drainage away from the building. When I say that I found everything and the kitchen sink on the property I wasn't kidding. There's a double bowl sink, upside down in the foreground, waiting to become part of the 58 tons (and still growing) of metal recycled off the property.
This is the reverse view to the south, the hedge row trees to the right. You can see how much the site has been built up.
This is looking east. Look close and a string beyond the wood 2X4's are about where the corner will be.
The blue outhouse on the left is almost exactly where the red, '63 Ford truck use to be. Beyond it, note how much higher the site is from the existing grade. Eventually I had 26 tandem truck loads of clay fill brought in build the site up.
This picture is just to help orient you.
This is a great picture to show how much the site (on the right) was built up from the existing grade on the left. Note the specialized truck Morton used to provide a level work platform for the crew.
Another view of that truck. It was a scissors lift with the bed able to elevate and articulate level to a limited degree. Using this they avoided using ladders and were much more productive and in my opinion able to produce better workmanship.
To be continued....
Thomas
YellowLakeWelding
Well-known member
Thomas, what did you use for a base to build it up? Crushed rock under class 5 or...? How long did you let it settle before construction?
The initial yellow clay fill was done about 1 1/2 years before and was extremely hard once it weathered in. In spring, about 6 months before construction some additional clay was brought in as I recall about 4 tandem loads to catch some low spots and add to the edges. The site was then all leveled out and my concrete guys compacted what around here in central IL is called "road pack" which is essentially crushed rock, I believe about 6" that was mechanically compacted about two weeks before the pour.
Thomas
slimpickins
Well-known member
slimpickins, now there is another great user name. That's what my Mom used to describe things around our house when I was growing up, " it'll be pretty slimpickins this month."
Let's see, the time I've got into this project....... nope not a clue. I can't even imagine either...and I was there! Labor of love to be sure and lots of quality time with my son...priceless.
Thomas
Thanks for the comment on the username. My parents used to say the same thing.
Labors of love is what its about here ... few could afford this stuff if we had to pay someone to do it - and it wouldn't ever be the same as doing it yourself. It's the journey, not the destination! ... Well, the destination is pretty sweet too! Your garage proves that in spades. What better place could there be to hoist a few cold ones!
Well that might be overstating it a little bit. I mean it's just a small pin that has multiple ways to secure it and all but, wait a moment.......... what were you referring too???
Thanks grizzlyToolz and welcome to our world here at the "Restored 1930's Auto Shop." It's different for sure. Stick around, there's more to see.
Thomas
More barn material...
Looking south with the shop in the background, right. The higher elevation of the barn site can better be seen. Also since the area is so heavily wooded I choose to not use gutters, just like most of the shop does not have gutters. They would get plugged up pretty quickly with leaves and other debris, sticks, nuts, seeds etc. I didn't want to have to get a ladder and clean them out every 3 months. Instead notice the the soffits (the overhang area at the edge of the roof, dark brown here) is 3' (.9 m) wide, the widest Morton makes. This will move roof water runoff away from the foundation of the building and then by using surface grading I can move water further away from the foundation. This will also help keep the humidity level in the barn lower as an added benefit.
This is looking east. The ground to the left is higher so I needed to grade the barn site so water flowing down hill from there would flow around the barn and not flood it in heavy rains. Note the 3' soffit here as well. It's 3' wide all around the whole building.
The exterior construction is now done and time to do the grade work. Here I've backfilled right up to the bottom of the building. This was fall so I let everything weather in and settle in over winter. You can see the great slope I've got away from the building. Any water will flow rapidly away, a good thing! BTW the blue fitting on the side is the pressure regulator for the propane line for heat.
This is looking along the north side of the barn in spring and everything has settled by now. The puddle is the drip line off the roof. That's the advantage of a 3' overhand, it moves the initial water away from the foundation. Once it's on the ground it's my job to grade the area to move water on the surface away.
The ground by the building is high and the ground to the right is high and I'm creating a ditch in the middle to intercept and flow water away.
Reverse angle view. The sun shadow is just about right down the bottom of my new ditch. A transit was used to establish the grade and get the proper fall in the ditch. The corner nearest the camera was very tricky and fairly steep. All the water from the left, high ground side of the building will flow down and around this corner.
Here's a close up of that tricky corner. The grade work here was all hand work done by Cameron and myself with shovels, rakes, blisters and sweat and not necessarily in that order.
Once it's all graded you have to control soil erosion. This was my solution. I came out from the building 4' (1 m) to get beyond the drip line of the roof and beyond where runoff in a heavy rain will carry water. These are 4" X 4" treated timbers. They were drilled and 3/8" rebar were driven into them to hold them in place. * Note the color difference in the yellow clay fill under the building and the darker top soil away from it.
A soil sterilizer to stop vegetation growth was used under a weed barrier top mat. The timbers were placed on top of the mat to secure that end. BTW, polyethylene sheet plastic weed barriers are pretty worthless. They breakdown rapidly and then you have to remove the rock and do it again. Do yourself a favor and do it right the first time. A web search educated me on the type I wanted and I had to talk a professional landscaping firm into selling me what little I needed. UV rays are your worst enemy so keeping it well covered with rock and shielding from my wide overhangs should keep this weed free for many, many years. The good stuff was a little expensive but that should pay off in later years. A little Round Up here and there from time to time and it shouldn't be a problem. Well that's the theory anyway.
Followed by 2"-3" river washed rock. The rock provides a surface to break the fall of roof water without eroding and weighs down the weed barrier. It's also large enough that is stays in place and not easily displaced by animals.
The tricky corner had such steep sides I resorted to larger, flatter rocks to stabilize it.
This is the south side of the barn.
Grass was planted everywhere else. It's easily cared for and provides good soil erosion control. Here it is starting to grow in about a month later...
The tricky corner...
On the gable ends of the building I only came out 2' since there is no drip line to speak of on a gable end.
The south side. I can put a wheel from the mower on the timber and mow so there is no trimming and I point the discharge away from the building so I don't get old grass clippings building up on the rocks. The rocks need to be blown off periodically to prevent old leaves and other debris from building up on top of them. The outside corner of the timber here has eroded over winter and looks like it will need some fine tuning. This is about 6 months after I first established grass here.
Reverse view from last winter. The wide overhangs also aid moving snow away from the building as it melts and slides off the roof. The roof is painted glossy dark brown, is a slick surface, somewhat steep and sheds snow quite readily as you can see.
What I want to stress is the importance of moisture control. I've seen new buildings constructed in low laying areas with no attempt to build the site up, an invitation to future problems. Get the building site up from the existing grade and then plan out how to move surface water away. While this site was not low laying, it did have higher ground by it that could have impacted it. Also by using wide soffits and grade work I've avoided the hassle and maintenance of gutters. It works good and lasts a long time.
Thomas
Looking south with the shop in the background, right. The higher elevation of the barn site can better be seen. Also since the area is so heavily wooded I choose to not use gutters, just like most of the shop does not have gutters. They would get plugged up pretty quickly with leaves and other debris, sticks, nuts, seeds etc. I didn't want to have to get a ladder and clean them out every 3 months. Instead notice the the soffits (the overhang area at the edge of the roof, dark brown here) is 3' (.9 m) wide, the widest Morton makes. This will move roof water runoff away from the foundation of the building and then by using surface grading I can move water further away from the foundation. This will also help keep the humidity level in the barn lower as an added benefit.
This is looking east. The ground to the left is higher so I needed to grade the barn site so water flowing down hill from there would flow around the barn and not flood it in heavy rains. Note the 3' soffit here as well. It's 3' wide all around the whole building.
The exterior construction is now done and time to do the grade work. Here I've backfilled right up to the bottom of the building. This was fall so I let everything weather in and settle in over winter. You can see the great slope I've got away from the building. Any water will flow rapidly away, a good thing! BTW the blue fitting on the side is the pressure regulator for the propane line for heat.
This is looking along the north side of the barn in spring and everything has settled by now. The puddle is the drip line off the roof. That's the advantage of a 3' overhand, it moves the initial water away from the foundation. Once it's on the ground it's my job to grade the area to move water on the surface away.
The ground by the building is high and the ground to the right is high and I'm creating a ditch in the middle to intercept and flow water away.
Reverse angle view. The sun shadow is just about right down the bottom of my new ditch. A transit was used to establish the grade and get the proper fall in the ditch. The corner nearest the camera was very tricky and fairly steep. All the water from the left, high ground side of the building will flow down and around this corner.
Here's a close up of that tricky corner. The grade work here was all hand work done by Cameron and myself with shovels, rakes, blisters and sweat and not necessarily in that order.
Once it's all graded you have to control soil erosion. This was my solution. I came out from the building 4' (1 m) to get beyond the drip line of the roof and beyond where runoff in a heavy rain will carry water. These are 4" X 4" treated timbers. They were drilled and 3/8" rebar were driven into them to hold them in place. * Note the color difference in the yellow clay fill under the building and the darker top soil away from it.
A soil sterilizer to stop vegetation growth was used under a weed barrier top mat. The timbers were placed on top of the mat to secure that end. BTW, polyethylene sheet plastic weed barriers are pretty worthless. They breakdown rapidly and then you have to remove the rock and do it again. Do yourself a favor and do it right the first time. A web search educated me on the type I wanted and I had to talk a professional landscaping firm into selling me what little I needed. UV rays are your worst enemy so keeping it well covered with rock and shielding from my wide overhangs should keep this weed free for many, many years. The good stuff was a little expensive but that should pay off in later years. A little Round Up here and there from time to time and it shouldn't be a problem. Well that's the theory anyway.
Followed by 2"-3" river washed rock. The rock provides a surface to break the fall of roof water without eroding and weighs down the weed barrier. It's also large enough that is stays in place and not easily displaced by animals.
The tricky corner had such steep sides I resorted to larger, flatter rocks to stabilize it.
This is the south side of the barn.
Grass was planted everywhere else. It's easily cared for and provides good soil erosion control. Here it is starting to grow in about a month later...
The tricky corner...
On the gable ends of the building I only came out 2' since there is no drip line to speak of on a gable end.
The south side. I can put a wheel from the mower on the timber and mow so there is no trimming and I point the discharge away from the building so I don't get old grass clippings building up on the rocks. The rocks need to be blown off periodically to prevent old leaves and other debris from building up on top of them. The outside corner of the timber here has eroded over winter and looks like it will need some fine tuning. This is about 6 months after I first established grass here.
Reverse view from last winter. The wide overhangs also aid moving snow away from the building as it melts and slides off the roof. The roof is painted glossy dark brown, is a slick surface, somewhat steep and sheds snow quite readily as you can see.
What I want to stress is the importance of moisture control. I've seen new buildings constructed in low laying areas with no attempt to build the site up, an invitation to future problems. Get the building site up from the existing grade and then plan out how to move surface water away. While this site was not low laying, it did have higher ground by it that could have impacted it. Also by using wide soffits and grade work I've avoided the hassle and maintenance of gutters. It works good and lasts a long time.
Thomas
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Thanks for the comment on the username. My parents used to say the same thing.
Labors of love is what its about here ... few could afford this stuff if we had to pay someone to do it - and it wouldn't ever be the same as doing it yourself. It's the journey, not the destination! ... Well, the destination is pretty sweet too! Your garage proves that in spades. What better place could there be to hoist a few cold ones!
It really is the journey. I truly enjoy the self satisfaction of hands on. Once I got the shop up and running I've not felt the need to "push" to get most projects done. The Eco air meter and Walker projects for example have me doing all kinds of small, nit picky steps that are hardly necessary but I find so very rewarding to do.
Just as I did with the handle screws on it, I spent some time with a variety of hand files and cleaned up the hardware prior to powder coating it...
...removing all the dings, high spots and turned edges that accumulated over the years. Hardly necessary but just.......nice. Sitting by the bench, filing away, listening to period tunes and channeling Mr Johnson. It works for me!
Thomas
Boosted1
Well-known member
Nice job. I made sure my garage would have good drainage also since my previous had issues.
Dutch 1960
Member
- Joined
- Jun 27, 2010
- Messages
- 14
Visiting again after a long break. If you recall, you inspired me to start my own garage project. Turned into 3 acres of brush clearing (no derelict cars found), tree planting for spring, house painting, bathroom repair, fence building, etc. as well as the garage work. I've kept busy.
Definitely a "six degrees of separation" thing going on, as I used to get my muffler work done at Jerauld's, I have my roll cage work done at Autpower, and I recall Roland Johnson from my old SCCA days.
Two things: One, I note that you indexed the soda bottles in the machine in pic 2580. This may be a repeat of a pic from much earlier, and it was already noted before, but it hadn't been caught again this time around, so I thought I would throw in my 2 cts. Two, when you first showed pics of the Jerauld's manifold, there was a piece of paper stuffed into one of the bores. I have been waiting for you to tell us what was on that piece of paper, but that was never revealed. So...what was on that piece of paper, if anything?
Thanks again, and my wife thanks you and doesn't even know you, as a lot of my "stuff" is out of the home garage now.
Definitely a "six degrees of separation" thing going on, as I used to get my muffler work done at Jerauld's, I have my roll cage work done at Autpower, and I recall Roland Johnson from my old SCCA days.
Two things: One, I note that you indexed the soda bottles in the machine in pic 2580. This may be a repeat of a pic from much earlier, and it was already noted before, but it hadn't been caught again this time around, so I thought I would throw in my 2 cts. Two, when you first showed pics of the Jerauld's manifold, there was a piece of paper stuffed into one of the bores. I have been waiting for you to tell us what was on that piece of paper, but that was never revealed. So...what was on that piece of paper, if anything?
Thanks again, and my wife thanks you and doesn't even know you, as a lot of my "stuff" is out of the home garage now.
Dutch 1960 welcome back and yes I do recall the starting of your clean up project. Thanks for the update. I bet it feels quite rewarding doesn't it with all that you've done? You've been missed here, but I see why now!
As for the 6 degree concept, I'm more and more convinced we all either know each other or have mutual friends and or acquaintances. It just seems like that doesn't it? I consider myself quite fortunate to be able to call Roland a good friend, even if he did lose my favorite van keys! (ya Roland, they're still MIA!!)
OK about your two things; one, that soda bottle picture was first posted on page 108, # 2157 and oberst caught the bottle caps within hours of me posting it. To be honest until he pointed it out I hadn't noticed it. I just did it out of habit. Now I feel a little goofy about doing it........but I still do.
As for number two...
You win a prize for being that observant. This is one of the pictures you're referring to, the paper in the right bore.
Take a look at the pictures on page 89, # 1774 and any of them with Jacob first recieving the manifold show that paper still in the right bore. I asked Jacob when I was out there if he read it and he didn't remember any paper at all being stuffed in there. If he had noticed and not thrown it out but instead read it; it would have revealed to him the secret of the universe. That being..............
.........old guys rule!!
Seriously, as I was first cleaning out the shop when I found objects that I could somewhat identify I wrote it down on a note pad and put it with the item. In this case it read "old flathead V8 speed part, dual carb manifold, SAVE"
Just in case I was hit by a bus before I could properly ID stuff I didn't want who ever came after me cleaning up to not recognize the significance of some items and just pitch them out. I almost removed it before I sent it to him but thought he might get a kick out of my preliminary findings..... but I guess not, huh?
I was wondering if anybody was ever going to ask about that paper, especially since it's clearly seen in the later pictures with Jacob holding the manifold. Nice going Dutch!
Thomas
realvc
Well-known member
Hello Thomas and Chris
I have been doing a few things in my shop and one was checking out the vises. One of them is a 5" Wilton 1750. The other one is a bigger one but so far I've not found any type of information on it. It does have several coats of paint on it. It is bigger than the Wilton and has a flat area that I use for an anvil when I need to persuade some thing with a hammer. I've looked at some anvils and for the prices they bring and for what I would use one for I've not seen one yet that I could not live without.
The lift is an old Benpak 7000 lb. four post lift. The data plate is on post with the controls toward the wall. I'll get a closer look at it another day, it may take using a mirror and light to see it. By the time I get where I can almost see the data plate my bi focals are not in the right place where I read anything.
You have a very positive influence on several of us. I too have been doing more cleaning up and getting rid of some treasures.
I don't remember the metal port-a-walls. They sound like a good display item if you have room.
I'm still checking in about every day.
Vince
I have been doing a few things in my shop and one was checking out the vises. One of them is a 5" Wilton 1750. The other one is a bigger one but so far I've not found any type of information on it. It does have several coats of paint on it. It is bigger than the Wilton and has a flat area that I use for an anvil when I need to persuade some thing with a hammer. I've looked at some anvils and for the prices they bring and for what I would use one for I've not seen one yet that I could not live without.
The lift is an old Benpak 7000 lb. four post lift. The data plate is on post with the controls toward the wall. I'll get a closer look at it another day, it may take using a mirror and light to see it. By the time I get where I can almost see the data plate my bi focals are not in the right place where I read anything.
You have a very positive influence on several of us. I too have been doing more cleaning up and getting rid of some treasures.
I don't remember the metal port-a-walls. They sound like a good display item if you have room.
I'm still checking in about every day.
Vince
dumb as a stump
Member
A viable possibility for removability would be a setscrew. Just a thoughtCRTDI the wear on the pin on my jack I now believe is really from it's removal at some point many, many years ago. Maybe when the saddle was removed and those two holes were torched into the saddle.
Thomas
Here's a good example of the barn roof color combination of dark brown which absorbs sunlight and therefore warms up, and being a slick, glossy surface and how it sheds snow.
I selected the dark brown color because there are so many Walnut trees around, that the sap and walnuts they drop stain everything a dark brown color. I reasoned it would mask those stains and that it does. That it helps clear snow off was just an unforeseen bonus.
And again here you can see the 3' soffit overhang is keeping all the snow sliding off the roof 3'- 4' away from the building foundation. OK enough of that, on to more....
Thomas
I selected the dark brown color because there are so many Walnut trees around, that the sap and walnuts they drop stain everything a dark brown color. I reasoned it would mask those stains and that it does. That it helps clear snow off was just an unforeseen bonus.
And again here you can see the 3' soffit overhang is keeping all the snow sliding off the roof 3'- 4' away from the building foundation. OK enough of that, on to more....
Thomas
Enloe
Well-known member
What are the dimensions of the barn?
It is 60' X 72', (18 m X 22 m), with 16' (5 m) ceiling in the main area.
While the main area of the interior was still under construction.
Thomas
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Motown 454
Well-known member
- Joined
- Sep 25, 2008
- Messages
- 1,359
Wow acouple of day I missed a lot! Thats a beautiful building. Nice job on the grading for water control too. Most people don't think of that until its a problem. Very Nice.
Flexin
Member
Wow. I found this thread a two or three days ago. I took three or four sessions to go through the thread. That resto is amazing. I love the fact that you saved the old shop, kept a lot of things exactly the same but also added some of your own touches.
The new shop is unreal.
The old tools that you saved, restored are amazing. The fact that you also put them back to work puts a smile on my face. The Walker floor jacks are a thing of beauty.
The only thing that would have made this thread any better is if Mr. Johnson himself had a chance to see it now.
Nice work.
James
The new shop is unreal.
The old tools that you saved, restored are amazing. The fact that you also put them back to work puts a smile on my face. The Walker floor jacks are a thing of beauty.
The only thing that would have made this thread any better is if Mr. Johnson himself had a chance to see it now.
Nice work.
James
markviii
Well-known member
Rest assured he's watching everything that's being done (I think he put his name tag out there just to keep Tom on this toes!). His spirit is definitely out there. Mrs. Johnson got to see some radical changes and she loved it and all the activity during the early days of the restoration. Also, family members that have seen it are very pleased.
Chris
Chris
tcheat
Well-known member
Thomas,
Finally had a break from work and was able to take some measurements on the jack. The lifting arm is approximately 16 inches long and the front wheels are approximately 3.5 inches in diameter.
The lifting arm has G2693 cast into it:
From your pictures, it seems like I have the newer pump. I only see one arm here:
Let me know what you think. Thanks!
Tim
Finally had a break from work and was able to take some measurements on the jack. The lifting arm is approximately 16 inches long and the front wheels are approximately 3.5 inches in diameter.
The lifting arm has G2693 cast into it:
From your pictures, it seems like I have the newer pump. I only see one arm here:
Let me know what you think. Thanks!
Tim
Thomas,
Finally had a break from work and was able to take some measurements on the jack. The lifting arm is approximately 16 inches long and the front wheels are approximately 3.5 inches in diameter.
The lifting arm has G2693 cast into it:
From your pictures, it seems like I have the newer pump. I only see one arm here:
Let me know what you think. Thanks!
Tim
Tim, thanks for the pictures and update...
The lifting arm is a different casting, mine being #G 934. Tell you what, for measurement of the arm...
Why not use the bottom of the hole where the grease zirk is to the front straight edge of the arm itself. Go right down the middle of the arm, following casting line. When I go to the shop tomorrow I'll get that spec for you from mine and I'll also measure the front wheels.
You sure have the new base handle design with the single activating arm. Both of my pumps are identical, the only difference is the way the pistons are activated. Looking more like a 2 or 3 ton model if the arm measures shorter.
Got a casting number of your pump? The number that's partly hidden from view here is, G 924 as I recall.
While there is a lot of paint on yours that did serve to protect it and keep it from rusting and getting pitted. Removing the paint when the time comes will be easy. Have you contacted Hiball about a replacement release knob? If you need it I can provide contact information for you. He usually hangs out on "The Tools" forum helping folks over there with their jacks. Send him a PM and I'm sure he'll get back with you shortly.
If it were easy, anyone could do it. You'll get there. That hard part is done, you've got the jack and it looks solid. Now just give it the TLC treatment and enjoy the journey.
Thomas
I mostly lurk, but I spent 2 weeks going through this thread.
Well Done.
I was just curious, was this soda-pop still sealed 20 years later? And was the soda-pop in the Pepsi kept chilled the whole time the shop was "retired"?
whelk, the first step to the cure is admitting the problem, you "mostly lurk". On this thread that's not a bad thing at all.
You have plenty of company as you've read.Good question; the Pepsi and Mountain Dew that were all sealed amounted to over 4 cases of it.
I went through all of the cases that were left and selected the bottles that were completely full. That turned out to be 4 cases worth, seen on the right which are all original, 2 1/2 cases of Pepsi and 1 1/2 of Mountain Dew. They are displayed with my "new stock" on the left which is what I stock the machine with currently. Don't ask me why, but a friend wanted to try a "vintage Pepsi" which was about 25 years old.
So we chilled one down and the next day he tried it. It still had some, not a lot - but some, carbonation left when he opened it. He said it was a little stale but not as bad as you'd think. He suffer no ill effects but I'm going to take his word on that because I'm not going to try one!! The machine was not plugged in when I bought the shop and I don't know how long it was unplugged. But it was stocked pretty full when I bought the shop. I plugged it in for a few days after I started to clean up out there and it chilled to 38 degrees and was silent running for as long as I left it plugged in. The change mechanism still worked and would give correct change. The really amazing part is that the bottles never broke in the winter when it was below freezing and everything liquid froze as there was no heat in the building. Strong stuff I'd say!
Check back here from time to time for the latest saga in the exciting, continuing tale....
Thomas