Project Car in Bare Metal

[chicane]

In my garage I have a project car in bare metal. I am not quite ready to prime it yet. This is an early 70's car, non-galvanized steel.

How can I prep the metal in the meantime until I am ready to prime and if I do encounter surface rust in the interim what is the way to deal with this?

 

[JCByrd24]

I'd recommend WD-40, stay away from anything silicone based or you'll have a hell of a time when you go to paint.

 

[Quiksilver]

Muriatic acid will take any surface rust off that you might have.

 

[chicane]

Muriatic acid will take any surface rust off that you might have.

Actually, I might want to use something a lot less caustic than Muriatic acid.

 

[chicane]

I'd recommend WD-40, stay away from anything silicone based or you'll have a hell of a time when you go to paint.

Just curious; I thought WD-40 was silicon based? If you do use WD-40 how do you prep for painting, use rubbing alcohol to clean it off? What do the silicon based sprays do get absorbed into the metal?

 

[JCByrd24]

http://www.wd40.com/Brands/wd40_faqs.html

I wasn't positive it wasn't after you mentioned, luckily we have the internet, just neverhad bad painted experiences. According the the link, no silicon.
Silicon just tends to be a pain around paint, just ask anyone at an auto body shop, best prank is to through a tube of caulk in the paint booth. A good cleaning of the metal with alcohol or brake parts cleaner is a good idea, but in my experience depending on the nature of the silicon contact clean up can be frustrating and leave fish eyes in paint.

 

[Ramblur]

www.ospho.com

Put some plastic down underneath your ride,get a cheap plastic spray bottle,
and just spray it down good. Its like water so the excess will just drip off.
Available in the paint dept of most home improvement and hardware stores.
63 Chevy frame that I blasted and ospho'd about 7 yrs. ago still looks like
the day I blasted it. Well,except for the cobwebs....

 

[chicane]

www.ospho.com

Put some plastic down underneath your ride,get a cheap plastic spray bottle,
and just spray it down good. Its like water so the excess will just drip off.
Available in the paint dept of most home improvement and hardware stores.
63 Chevy frame that I blasted and ospho'd about 7 yrs. ago still looks like
the day I blasted it. Well,except for the cobwebs....

Wow, thanks! So will this take care of surface rust and prep the metal for priming?

 

[Franz©]

OsPho, an overpriced product made of PHOSPHORIC ACID.

Just use phosphoric acid in 5% concentration and send me your excess money.

 

[gotmud13613]

Eastwood Comp has a product I have used many times with great results.


http://www.eastwoodco.com/shopping/product/detailmain.jsp?itemID=16671&itemType=PRODUCT&RS=1&keyword=rust+dissolver

 

[chicane]

Eastwood Comp has a product I have used many times with great results.


http://www.eastwoodco.com/shopping/product/detailmain.jsp?itemID=16671&itemType=PRODUCT&RS=1&keyword=rust+dissolver

Thanks. I will definitely check this out.

 

[busted knuckle]

Try Picklex 20. you spray it on and wipe it around and leave it. You don't have to clean it off prior to paint. About $20 a guart which will do a whole car.

 

[VDubJoe]

Yep Picklex 20 works great.
Joe

 

[JDMopar]

You can also go to NAPA,and buy a bottle of stuff called Twin Etch. I brushed some on some media blasted sheetmetal in 2001,and it has sat in my basement and not a sign of rust since. Now if I can ever get this new garage done,I can get to work on it......lol.

 

[choppedrodz]

I know that I am knew to your board but I am a 20 year veteran when it comes to cars and autobody and if you want problems with your resoration go ahead and soak it down with a lubricant. my projaects get DP40 if they are not going to see paint for a while. just my opinion.

 

[ceo012384]

Stay away from anything silicone based or you'll have a hell of a time when you go to paint.

+1.... if it has silicone in it, you will NEVER get all of it off the metal. Ask anyone in a machine shop / paint shop.

 

[rw7810]

Definietly PickleX. I've tried it all. Definately not Wd40.

Try here for more info: http://www.picklex.com/

Go here to buy: http://www.autobodystore.com/forum/index.php

Bob
Houston,TX

 

[Blue]

:

In my garage I have a project car in bare metal. I am not quite ready to prime it yet. This is an early 70's car, non-galvanized steel.

Come on, you can't start talking about a project car on a site like this without showing us some pics!

 

[5wndwcpe]

I know that I am knew to your board but I am a 20 year veteran when it comes to cars and autobody and if you want problems with your resoration go ahead and soak it down with a lubricant. my projaects get DP40 if they are not going to see paint for a while. just my opinion.

There's the answer right there. All long as the metal is clean enough for paint, hit it with an epoxy primer and your good to go. You can do your body work right over it so there would be no need to strip it off.

 

[mulepackin]

You can also go to NAPA,and buy a bottle of stuff called Twin Etch. I brushed some on some media blasted sheetmetal in 2001,and it has sat in my basement and not a sign of rust since. Now if I can ever get this new garage done,I can get to work on it......lol.

Is that a Martin Senour product? My local NAPA used to have a very good paint dept. that handled all Martin Senour products. I've painted several veh. with MS products and had very good success. I seem to recall that was one of the things I used as well as Final Wash, a prep to remove all grease, finger oils, etc.

 

[thefairlaneman]

What I do is sand it down then wipe off any figerprints or smudges with liquer thinner and then spray the area with a medium coat of the self etching metal primmer. This will keep it rust free even if you park it in the rain.

 

[Milan]

I have always heard that WD 40 or any other penetrants will accelerate corrosion due to the chemical that makes them penetrate. once the lubricant wears away its corrosion city...Not sure if it's true but merits looking in to IMO

Milan