Grasshopper's New Home - "The Hangar"
- Thread starter Ezzie
- Start date
Nope - they design these trusses for the specific snow load in the area where the building is being constructed. As part of the application for a building permit, you have to submit detailed drawings of the truss design with an engineer's stamp. These are only a 60' span. Clear span truss framed buildings can go as wide as 80'+. They are quite common for horse riding arenas that are typically 80' x 200'. Since I am in a high wind area, I opted to use 32" centers (commercial grade) where a typical agricultural use building is on 48" centers. This way, I can frame the ceiling portions above the insulated areas I am going to build based on standard 16" centers.
PhantomEB
Well-known member
Wow I definitely gonna have to bring up the foam inside the Concrete with my bud, we always bantering back and forth about how to make garages/workshops better. He does have his on the outside protected by 3/8" pressuretreated plywood. Granted its only a 24x32.
Here's some more pics of the progress. We decided to sheet the whole exterior 16' walls with OSB before the strapping/sheeting steel. This will give it greater strength, make it easier to insulate in the areas where I will be heating and protect the steel from any objects falling against the wall on the inside.
.. and another view of the west side
... and the rear of the building
.. and another view of the west side
... and the rear of the building
cdrewferd
Well-known member
Great looking shop. Do you have a drawing of what the inside is going to look like?
No, sorry I don't. It is going to be fairly basic. Looking at it from the front, the area directly inside the front roll-up door (12' x 14') will be a wash bay (16' x 32') with a central grated floor drain.
To the left side of the door will be the workshop area (28' deep x 32' wide) in which I will install a 2-post lift, workbenches, drill press, blast cabinet, etc.
To the right will be a 2-story area (16' x 32') in which will be the mechanical room (radiant floor heater, electrical panel, air compressor), an 8' x 8' washroom with shower, kitchenette and upstairs an office/lounge area for hangin' out.
The rear 2/3 of the building will be left as an unheated & uninsulated storage (for now) but I'd like to have a "dirty" area to do welding & fabrication as well as a sandblasting area eventually.
Got the grading done for the rear 2/3 (4000 sq. ft) of the floor. We're going to do the pour in 2 stages. The rear will be poured first as it is unisulated and then the front later once I have the insulation, radiant tubing and underfloor drains roughed in.
... and another pic looking toward the back of the building.
... and another pic looking toward the back of the building.
C_F
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Man, your project is a thing of beauty!
I love the sheer size of it & am completely 'grasshopper' green with envy.
I love the sheer size of it & am completely 'grasshopper' green with envy.erda
Well-known member
Looking good 
Any updates?
Any updates?
Woffski
Well-known member
That looks like "some" building. Like to see the completed project.
Almost done the shell - doors are on, window in and the rear 2/3 of the floor (unheated) area is poured. Just waiting on the eavestrough guy to finish the troughs & downspouts. Each side will have 2x 50' troughs into a downspout at each corner.
I am very pleased with the big doors, they are a 12' wide x 14' high rollup from a company called Polydoor (www.polydoor.com). They have polycarbonate translucent panels that let a lot of natural light in yet are opaque enough so you can't see what is on the other side. They use these a lot on wash bays in car washes because they are lightweight and tough.
This weekend I am putting in the radiant tubing and rest of the underground work in the front 1/3 of the floor so we can finish pouring the floor next week.
I am very pleased with the big doors, they are a 12' wide x 14' high rollup from a company called Polydoor (www.polydoor.com). They have polycarbonate translucent panels that let a lot of natural light in yet are opaque enough so you can't see what is on the other side. They use these a lot on wash bays in car washes because they are lightweight and tough.
This weekend I am putting in the radiant tubing and rest of the underground work in the front 1/3 of the floor so we can finish pouring the floor next week.
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Bib Overalls
Well-known member
Coupl of questions. Is that grounding going to be under the slab? Don't think that would be allowed here. Are your wood plates treated? Or is that even necessary as far north as you are?
Good questions!! Yes, under slab grounding is allowed here as long as you can satisfy the electrical inspector that it was done to code - hence the photos.
Termites are not an issue here but there is a strip of closed cell foam between the cement and the sill plate that is not very visible in this pic. It acts as a moisture barrier to prevent moisture from wicking out of the concrete and into the sill plate - also acts as a seal for minor imperfections in the flatness of the concrete. The exterior steel cladding actually covers this area as well on the outside.
Termites are not an issue here but there is a strip of closed cell foam between the cement and the sill plate that is not very visible in this pic. It acts as a moisture barrier to prevent moisture from wicking out of the concrete and into the sill plate - also acts as a seal for minor imperfections in the flatness of the concrete. The exterior steel cladding actually covers this area as well on the outside.
boarderline
Active member
Great build , how about some specs on the car ?
You just had to ask....here is the "build" list. Last dyno run turned in at around 285 HP at the rear wheels under 18 psi of boost (not sure what that translates to in metric). It weighs about 2200 lbs. Also, you might know about these since your in New Zealand, I'm currently doing up a BNR32 for circuit racing.
1973 PL510 4-door (I've owned this as a street car since 1975)
Full 8-point 1.5" x .120" wall DOM race cage built by Ronny O'Brien (Brampton, ON)
SR20DET "Red-top" & ****** from 1993 JDM 180SX donor front clip
ARP head studs (102-4701), main studs (202-5402) and rod bolts (202-6005)
Garrett GT28RS (aka "Disco Potato") turbo
Kinetic Motorsports silicon couplers & T-gear clamps
Custom stainless steel cold & hot intercooler piping
Greddy Type-S BOV
Nismo (Tomei) 555 cc. injectors
Nismo SR20DET Rocker Arm Stoppers
Nismo S13 motor & ****** mounts
JWT 300ZX PopCharger intake with Z32 MAFS
Procharger Bar & plate top-mount intercooler (18" x 6" x 3" core)
2004 Subaru WRX hood scoop
Badbiki ECU programmable daughter board
Ron Davis Racing 3" aluminum cross-flow radiator with -20AN fittings
Flex-a-lite Trimline 16" 2000 cfm. electric fan with temp. controller
Exedy/Daikin Hyper Single Clutch kit (P/N NH01SD), 6 puck cerametallic disk, aluminum pressure plate cover, chrome-moly lightweight flywheel
3" custom fabricated mandrel-bent mild steel downpipe with 1.5" wastegate bypass tube, ceramic coated
3" custom fabricated mandrel-bent stainless steel exhaust with 3" flex coupling
Magnaflow 3" SS muffler (4" outlet) (P/N 14819)
280ZX front struts with Koni Sport Yellow (Ground Control P/N 1189spcg) shocks
Ground Control camber/caster adjustable upper mounts, coil over with Eibach 10" x 2.5"ID springs - 250lb/in
Modified steering rack from a RHD 1972 240Z
Modified 240SX steering linkage and 240Z column
300ZX vented 30mm. x 280 mm. front rotors
Aluminum 4-piston Z32 calipers (5-bolt)
EBC Red Stuff front brake pads (DP31200C)
Goodridge stainless steel braided brake & clutch lines
Whiteline 1" adjustable front swaybar (custom made by Whiteline for SR20DET oil pan clearance)
Custom fabricated front cross member and motor mounts (centre section)
Custom prop. shaft with Spicer slip-yolk and diff flange - Spicer 1310 solid U-joints
300ZX Z31 turbo R200 LSD (clutch-type) with Birfield type 4 bolt CV shafts
300ZX Z31 rear hubs/spindle and rotors (5 bolt)
280ZX rear calipers and parking brake cables
EBC Red Stuff rear pads (DP3528C)
Wilwood adjustable brake proportioning valve
Whiteline 3/4" rear adjustable sway-bar (P/N BDR1Z)
Specialty Engineering rear springs
KYB Gas-Adjust rear shocks with 2.75" extenders
ATL 15 gal. Sportsman aluminum fuel cell with integrated Walbro GSS-340 high pressure (255 ltr./hr.) EFI pump & 3-door surge tank
Aeromotive 13109 adjustable bypass fuel pressure regulator
Mallory 160 competition EFI fuel filter
15" x 7" Compomotive MO1570 wheels (+12 offset)
225/50 x 15" Toyo Proxes T1-R
Autometer SportComp 2 5/8" guages:
3421 mechanical oil pressure (0-100psi)
3432 mechanical water temperature (120-240 deg. F)
3404 mechanical boost pressure (0-35 psi)
3516 electric fuel level (240-33 ohms)
3593 electric voltmeter (8-18 volts)
3563 full-sweep electric fuel pressure (0-100 psi)
TechEdge wide-band O2 meter/datalogger with NTK L1H1 sensor
Corbeau FX-1 Seats, RCI 3" Cam-lock 5-point belts
Soda blasting to bare metal of complete shell
PPG Concept DCC acrylic urethane paint over PPG DPLF epoxy primer
There's a dicussion of the build over on the 510 Club of BC web site here...
http://www.the510realm.com/index.ph...viewtopic&t=837&highlight=sr20det+targa+rally
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boarderline
Active member
WOW 
and i thought the garage build was nice
thats some nicely speced up datsun you have there ezzie
just what one needs to attack a targa or 2
and as for the r32 mmmmm nice ,a few racing circuit here, alot used as drift cars,or for drag racing,
off now to the 510 club to read up on the full build
cheers Dave
and i thought the garage build was nicethats some nicely speced up datsun you have there ezzie
just what one needs to attack a targa or 2
and as for the r32 mmmmm nice ,a few racing circuit here, alot used as drift cars,or for drag racing,
off now to the 510 club to read up on the full build
cheers Dave
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Runner94
Well-known member
Great facility and I'm very jealous. Here are my questions. I noticed in some of the earlier pictures that there were a couple of towers in yards. I think I read that you live way up north. Are the towers amateur radio or telelvision reception towers? They look a little too complex for just TV reception.
Again great building. I can't personally call it a garage because of it's size.
Thanks.
Again great building. I can't personally call it a garage because of it's size.
Thanks.
LOL... yah, lots of towers. That's my next door neighbour's house - he's an amateur radio buff. A retired former Nortel Networks wireless guy. He also owns and rents out a few microwave towers in the area to wireless communications carriers. He can't complain about MY hobby because I tolerate his... Ha Ha.
Well, it took my son & I three days to get the radiant floor tubing & manifolds laid out and fastened down - but I think it is going to be worth it.
Total area is the front 1/3 of the building or 2000 sq. ft. We broke it into three zones so I can control the slab temperatures individually (office/lounge/washroom, wash bay and workshop). We installed a total of 3250' of 1/2" PEX with equal length tubes off each manifold. What we did was precut the lengths for each zone and then laid the tubing out so that each circuit is equal length. This should help to give a nice even distribution of heat with a little denser config. around the outside walls to compensate for any heat loss through the foundation walls. It will also produce a farly balanced flow rate in each circuit off of the respective manifolds. There are 4 circuits for the office/lounge/washroom area, 3 circuits for the wash bay and 6 for the workshop. Here's a pic of the rough-in for the manifolds.
The base material/insulation we used are insulated door cutouts. This is a waste product left over when they cut the window openings out of exterior metal doors - really cheap and effective. The PEX is easily fastened to the door skins by using a nylon clamp and self tapping metal screws. We installed some strips of door cutouts vertically to act as a thermal break between zones that will come flush with the surface of the finished floor. This is not a concern for the slab since I will be framing walls to cover over these strips.
We are not going to use a wire reinforcing mesh with this application. Everyone I spoke with in this area seem to feel that putting a wire mesh in the concrete is a waste of time and money since it settles to the bottom and really only becomes an expensive way of attaching the tubing. Here are some pics of the finished rough-in for the office area ready for the final slab pour.
... and another view.
Total area is the front 1/3 of the building or 2000 sq. ft. We broke it into three zones so I can control the slab temperatures individually (office/lounge/washroom, wash bay and workshop). We installed a total of 3250' of 1/2" PEX with equal length tubes off each manifold. What we did was precut the lengths for each zone and then laid the tubing out so that each circuit is equal length. This should help to give a nice even distribution of heat with a little denser config. around the outside walls to compensate for any heat loss through the foundation walls. It will also produce a farly balanced flow rate in each circuit off of the respective manifolds. There are 4 circuits for the office/lounge/washroom area, 3 circuits for the wash bay and 6 for the workshop. Here's a pic of the rough-in for the manifolds.
The base material/insulation we used are insulated door cutouts. This is a waste product left over when they cut the window openings out of exterior metal doors - really cheap and effective. The PEX is easily fastened to the door skins by using a nylon clamp and self tapping metal screws. We installed some strips of door cutouts vertically to act as a thermal break between zones that will come flush with the surface of the finished floor. This is not a concern for the slab since I will be framing walls to cover over these strips.
We are not going to use a wire reinforcing mesh with this application. Everyone I spoke with in this area seem to feel that putting a wire mesh in the concrete is a waste of time and money since it settles to the bottom and really only becomes an expensive way of attaching the tubing. Here are some pics of the finished rough-in for the office area ready for the final slab pour.
... and another view.
I also got the rough-in for the floor drain ready so the concrete contractor can finish the floor. I bought some premade floor drain gratings from a local company - 8x 1' x 3' for a total length of 24'. My son & I welded up a frame to hold the grates and took it to a local galvanizing factory to have it galvanized. We welded some handles on it out of rebar stock to serve as anchors in the concrete.
I already buried a 3" sewer pipe off the end and over to one of the footer drains to carry away any water that collects in the trench. I put an elbow on the outlet so no solids or oil can get into the weepers.
I already buried a 3" sewer pipe off the end and over to one of the footer drains to carry away any water that collects in the trench. I put an elbow on the outlet so no solids or oil can get into the weepers.
Bib Overalls
Well-known member
Be interested in seeing how you finish out the drain.
This is really well done. I would love the have a building of this quality. We have radiant in our kennels and the lower level of our house. It is great. My wife's dogs like it too! I am really curious what kind of boiler you are going to use the drive that 3000' + of Pex tubing. Like I said ours works great, But I think we could done much better on efficiency.
I haven't really decided on what to use as a heat source to drive the system yet but I have been researching it a lot. I have narrowed it down to two choices and I'd appreciate any input you guys & gals may have.
I have access to natural gas at the road so I could use a natural gas fired boiler if I bring it in from the road - about 300' away. I might do the gas line anyway since I've got to trnch to bring the electrical service in and the local utilities say they will allow both to go in a 2' wide trench.
The other option is to go geothermal with ground loops and a liquid-to-liquid heat exchanger. I have the room to do it and a backhoe but it has a couple of disadvantages - initial cost of the equipment (the WaterFurnace's aren't cheap), and there are no good sources of help for DIY'ers in this part of Canada. There is also the labour & time, much more complex of a system than a gas boiler IMHO. I am skeptical that the pay back is there over using natural gas - might be different for a house but the shop area won't be kept any warmer than about 50 degrees or so and cooling in the summer is not necessary here.
I have access to natural gas at the road so I could use a natural gas fired boiler if I bring it in from the road - about 300' away. I might do the gas line anyway since I've got to trnch to bring the electrical service in and the local utilities say they will allow both to go in a 2' wide trench.
The other option is to go geothermal with ground loops and a liquid-to-liquid heat exchanger. I have the room to do it and a backhoe but it has a couple of disadvantages - initial cost of the equipment (the WaterFurnace's aren't cheap), and there are no good sources of help for DIY'ers in this part of Canada. There is also the labour & time, much more complex of a system than a gas boiler IMHO. I am skeptical that the pay back is there over using natural gas - might be different for a house but the shop area won't be kept any warmer than about 50 degrees or so and cooling in the summer is not necessary here.
Bib Overalls
Well-known member
We have a Hydro-Temp geothermal system in our house. Heats, cools and makes our hot water. Biggest expense was for the trenches. The unit itself was not that much more expensive than a comperable heat pump.
WolverineCoatings
Well-known member
Nice build... When I first saw the framing it kind of looked like you were building an Ark... lol...
Finished the exterior and now on to the inside stuff for the winter. Here's a photo at sign off from the framing contractor. I had them pour a concrete slab in front of the doors at the same time they did the front 1/3 inside slab. Eavestroughs and downspouts installed and all the weepers hooked up. Ready for winter!
Got all of my collection rounded up from various shacks and makeshift garages all over the place. Nice to have everything under one roof. Here's the line-up so far.
And another view - finally I can get my big trailer and backhoe inside!!! There is a few more items to come yet - a 2-horse stock trailer, an open deck car trailer, my middle son's RX-7 FC, my youngest son's 1979 VW camper van, his racing motorcycle and my son-in-laws 2 ATV's and trailer. Now you understand why this thing needed to be this big.
Got all of my collection rounded up from various shacks and makeshift garages all over the place. Nice to have everything under one roof. Here's the line-up so far.
And another view - finally I can get my big trailer and backhoe inside!!! There is a few more items to come yet - a 2-horse stock trailer, an open deck car trailer, my middle son's RX-7 FC, my youngest son's 1979 VW camper van, his racing motorcycle and my son-in-laws 2 ATV's and trailer. Now you understand why this thing needed to be this big.
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bluesman2a
Well-known member
You have to respect a space that can house a dually, four other vehicles, a tractor, and a toy-hauler and STILL look BIG inside.
sr71sss
Member
LOL!!! I was waiting for someone to ask that question.
I'm into cars, my wife is into horses. The nickname of "The Hangar" was coined by a friend who was awestruck by the size of the building plans...
... and this is "Grasshopper" in action at the 2006 Targa Newfoundland tarmac rally.
Ah yes datsun 510 ! I remember seeing you on TV unfortunatley after you guys crashed the car, hope you get that SR20 powered datsun 510 back up and running in time for next years targa rally, I hope this will inspire me someday to do this with my kids we they get to that age. I envy the "hanger" as maybe someday the wife will allow us to move to the country to fulfill my dreams of building my "dream car garage someday" and hope to restomod my 1971 Datsun Bluebird 1800sss Coupe!
Conrad/SR71SSS
Antioch,california
WOW!! A fellow "dimer" on this site. Thanks for checking out my build - nice to meet you Conrad. Send me some pics of your Bluebird when you get a chance. I'm doing a rebuild on "Grasshopper" in the near future. I was able to find an immaculate '69 shell to transfer all of the go-fast goodies over to. Here's a pic of the car and donor shell resting peacefully for the time being in the back corner of the new shop.
sr71sss
Member
WOW!! A fellow "dimer" on this site. Thanks for checking out my build - nice to meet you Conrad. Send me some pics of your Bluebird when you get a chance. I'm doing a rebuild on "Grasshopper" in the near future. I was able to find an immaculate '69 shell to transfer all of the go-fast goodies over to. Here's a pic of the car and donor shell resting peacefully for the time being in the back corner of the new shop.
Not much to look at the bluebird since I have had it non op since '97 from family life, I have had the car since late '91, funny thing was I had a sr20det swapped in it since '94 but after a friend had built a swap kit for the motor then everyone including grandma jumped on the bandwagon and after that I lost interest in swapping the motor, don't get me wrong the sr20 is absolutely a bulletproof motor but I lost interest since "everyone" was doing it also
, someday I will have a chance to build a workshop that is worthy of building up the bluebird again but for now I'm just planning it out in my head-good luck with the car and hope to see it in action again on speedOn a side note: are you guys going to epoxy coat your floors or just leave them as is?
conrad
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amwalker
Well-known member
Sorry but I have to hijack this one. One more Dimer here, mine it all tore apart back at my Uncle's house on my trailer waiting for me to finish my rewiring job. Your garage looks awesome, I'm hoping to build something half that size when I can retire. One of these days I'll start a thread about the 510, I have plans for it once I get back to the states.
Attachments
Some updates from over the holidays. Set about framing the interior walls for the shop area. It will be 28' deep x 32' wide.
I had to brake down and buy some scaffolding to do this framing and it will come in handy for the ceiling work later on. I'm getting too old to work off ladders any more and it feels so much safer.
Here's the back wall ready to lift into place.
I had to brake down and buy some scaffolding to do this framing and it will come in handy for the ceiling work later on. I'm getting too old to work off ladders any more and it feels so much safer.
Here's the back wall ready to lift into place.