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Attatching a bottom plate to a sill plate?

NXGTS

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Sep 15, 2009
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Indiana
I was planning on using my sill plate as my bottom plate. I am now starting to rethink that. My walls are 2x4 and the sill is 2x8. I would like to put the sill plate down first then frame the 2x4 walls flat on the garage floor and set them on top of the sill. My question is how to attatch the bottom 2x4 plate to the 2x8 sill plate? I am sure just nailing it to the sill plate is not all I have to do. Is there a bracket I need to use? Something similar to a truss tie?
 
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Rickstir

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Jan 25, 2008
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Close by the Elk Fork of the Salt River, in MO
Are the footings poured? They make an "L" shaped bolt that you insert in the wet concrete. If you are past that point you can install concrete anchors that will do the job. I have an earth-contact home and the plate on the back wall (90 ft.) is anchored into the top of the wall.
 

sammm

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Jun 7, 2010
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North Carolina
Why are the sill and studs diff. sizes? What size top-plate do you plan on using? Going to mess you up when it comes time to sheath the walls (either inside or out depending how you attach them).

+1 for the L-bolts in the wet cement.
 

fefarms

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Jan 25, 2007
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Assuming the sill plates are correctly bolted down with the proper anchor bolts, you can build the walls on the deck and then stand them on the sill plates. The trick is to run your exterior sheathing 1.25 inches long (beyond the bottom plate of the wall). Once the wall is stood in place, nail through the sheathing into the sill plate. This will take care of shear and uplift transfer. For additional shear transfer, also nail through the bottom plate into the sill plate.
 

DCarr

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May 2, 2008
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Its common to attach the bottom plate to the sill after the sill has been bolted / fastened to the foundation. I did my 40x30x 13 ( 10' on top of blocks ) shop that way.

Code out here requires galvanized nails going into treated lumber. I put 2 nails between each stud ( 16" centers ) all the way around.

Shopwwall32010-3.jpg
 

mmhouse

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Aug 31, 2008
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Desert Southwest
If you're going to put galvanized nails into treated lumber make sure they're hot-dip galvanized (HD Galv) and not electro galvanized (EG). Better yet, bite the bullet and go with stainless. The chemicals in treated lumber will eat regular steel over time.
 
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NXGTS

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Indiana
Why are the sill and studs diff. sizes? What size top-plate do you plan on using? Going to mess you up when it comes time to sheath the walls (either inside or out depending how you attach them).

+1 for the L-bolts in the wet cement.

They are different sizes because I am using an 8" block for the foundation. Something very similar to what DCarr has for walls. The wall framing is all 2x4 but to cover the top of the block I have to use 2x8. As far as sheathing goes I know I may have to put a 3" or so strip at the top to come all the way up to the top plate.

So you all are saying that nailing through the bottom plate into the sill with hot dipped galvanized is the way to go? I can see where fastening the sheathing to both the sill and bottom plate would ad some strength. I talked to a coworker who said they fastened his bottom plate to the sill with what looked like galvanized plumber's strap. Anybody seen or done this?

DCarr, what do you mean by around here? I can't see your location.
 
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csp

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Franktown, CO
If just nailing bothers you Simpson makes a variety of connectors that will work in this application.
 

Zeke

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Long Beach CA, the sewer by the sea.
Use longer anchor bolts and bolt thru both plates.

Use Simpson hdw. A35's will work on the inside and mending plates will bridge the 2 on the flush side.

Do the shear panel thing hanging over the mudsill and nailing.

There are a few ways to do this.
 

oldgoat

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Wichita Kansas
Instead of 2 x 4 walls I'd go with 2 x 6 walls. Since they can be put on 24" centers the cost works out about the same and you can put a lot more insulation in the walls. Usually the only problem, although minor, is the work around the doors and windows.
 
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NXGTS

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Indiana
Unfortunately the lumber for the build is sitting on site. I am just waiting for the weather to clear to get started. Hopefully Monday morning. I may try to get the sill plates on over the weekend. I work a swing shift so I am working around that for my build.

Very nice looking finished product DCarr! What size is it? Mine will be 30x48.
 

little d

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Nov 13, 2009
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NW Oklahoma
NXGTS, the straps you are talking about are used quite a bit now days, along with huricane straps for the rafters. If ya counter bore the sill for your bolts/nuts/washers for your sill plate and cut off the extra length of the bolt, frame up the walls, stand them up, brace, attach, it goes pretty quick. Good luck, d.
 

DCarr

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May 2, 2008
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Very nice looking finished product DCarr! What size is it? Mine will be 30x48.

Thank You !

Its 40'w x 30'd x 13't. The Asphalt had just been done ( 2 days ago ) you can see the trucks in the background. I have been waiting 30 yrs. to have a place like this ... and I finally do.

Good Luck on your build. !!!
 

mark2457

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Feb 10, 2014
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Location
Chicago, IL
Its common to attach the bottom plate to the sill after the sill has been bolted / fastened to the foundation. I did my 40x30x 13 ( 10' on top of blocks ) shop that way.

Code out here requires galvanized nails going into treated lumber. I put 2 nails between each stud ( 16" centers ) all the way around.

Shopwwall32010-3.jpg

I know this is an old post, but if you do it like this (sill plate plus botton plate. what do you do with the bottom plate where it hits the bolts? Won't the framing inspection need to see the sill bolts too?
 

Falcon67

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Jun 11, 2009
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Merkel, TX
Unbolt the sill plates, build the walls in sections on the slab and nail the studs to the sills, then stand them back up.

Framing2.jpg


Framing3.jpg


Framing4.jpg
 

csp

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Franktown, CO
Ramsets are still used, but they are not an acceptable method of anchoring an exterior wall to the foundation/slab.
 
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