To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

The VISES of Garage Journal

To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

ZRX61

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 15, 2006
Messages
28,716
Location
Solar Blight Valley, SoCal
One finished :)

4-28-11013.jpg


4-28-11014.jpg


4-28-11015.jpg
 

cglasgow

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 12, 2010
Messages
1,139
WWII aircraft were built at Cowley & Longbridge....& just about every other UK car factory... I've noticed the interior of some USAF C17's is the same color...

You made me curious so I had a look -- MG built a number of things during the war, but the largest was the front section of Albermarle bombers. Wonder what color they were...

Also, MG were being managed from Cowley by the time of the war, so who's to say they weren't shipping supplies around.

All this is a bit off topic I suppose, but since MGs are one of my vices I guess it's ok. ;-)

Cheers!
 

Catalyze

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 7, 2011
Messages
1,369
Location
New Mexico
ZRX - the Penny Pincher is way too cute....like a duckling in a flock of machinist vises

Dave - thanks! the Gipsy is like using a mortar and pestle to grind herbs....it's effective but you feel like a caveman when you use it....the sound of that back jaw sliding along the rail

Ghostrider - great vise! you may become a Pied Piper of big iron and have a few more follow you home.....watch out.....oh.....You **** too

Craig
 

ZRX61

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 15, 2006
Messages
28,716
Location
Solar Blight Valley, SoCal
Well right now it's mostly apart.. except for that infernal design Prentiss uses to hold the screw in place. I'm thinking I'll paint it to match my other Prentiss which is the same color as the Littlestown I just finished...

4-28-11016.jpg


4-28-11018.jpg


Yes, the balls on the end of the handle are aluminum :) & yes, I know the cotter pin is missing. I'll fit that tomorrow.

At some point the Prentiss was black & has been dipped to strip it all off, except behind the jaws etc.

4-28-11017.jpg
 

autopts

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 4, 2009
Messages
2,268
bought this vise today, wilton 1760. pretty excited about it. looks to be made in 1993, is that to new to be any good? what changed from the older ones?

I believe Wilton discontinued the 1760 not long after the middle 90's. All the Tradesmans are now made here. For a home utility vise, its perfect. They also made them here for a while. The parts are not directly interchangable as you can see.
1760JAWS.jpg
 
Joined
Aug 12, 2010
Messages
20
Here is a Wilton corner-mount vise. The jaws are 7" on each side, with a maximum opening of 9 1/16"

Weight is 26 pounds.

The turnbuckle casting is marked 161072-10

I'd be interested to know any information about this model, including the proper name for this style of vise, the Wilton model number, dates of production and original cost.

One great feature: the vise may be mounted to any corner of a table top or bench. The bench stop is movable (note the second set of drilled/tapped holes).
 

Attachments

  • wilton_corner-mount_vise_front.jpg
    wilton_corner-mount_vise_front.jpg
    30.1 KB · Views: 49
  • wilton_corner-mount_vise_front2.jpg
    wilton_corner-mount_vise_front2.jpg
    53.1 KB · Views: 40
  • wilton_corner-mount_vise-side.jpg
    wilton_corner-mount_vise-side.jpg
    39.5 KB · Views: 34

Catalyze

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 7, 2011
Messages
1,369
Location
New Mexico
Dieseldent - that is a swivel jaw vise and it is much groovy! Basically you would pull out that pin and the rear jaw would pivot to match the taper of a workpiece that did not have parallel sides. Put the pin back in and it was locked into a parallel jaw vise like most vises. The problem happens when the jaw is not used much to pivot and rust will sort of bind it up in a fixed position. Pivoting will look like this with the pin removed:
View media item 8909
See the groove in the jaw? This is where the locking pin runs across locking my jaw in place. If yours is like a Prentiss (and I think it is...) then just pivot yours around 90 degrees and it will move forward (towards the other jaw face) and come out.
Craig
View media item 8897
My static jaw looks like this on my Parker with the jaw removed:
View media item 8899
If yours is like a Prentiss vise, then you can not remove the jaw until you pivot it almost 90 degrees to the side and then it will pull out forward. It locks into place by the main pivot jaw having an "undercut overlap". On my Parker, there is a cross pin that you punch out from one side to the other side completely. This allows the jaw to just come straight up and out from any position.
 
Last edited:

Catalyze

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 7, 2011
Messages
1,369
Location
New Mexico
If you clamp your Reed (with everything taken off of it) in another vise and hit (smack, tap, whatever makes you comfortable) the tail end of the swivel jaw (I use a wooden stake between tail and hammer, short PVC pipe piece works a treat) it should start to swivel.
View media item 9260
It should spin around to about 90 degrees and you can just push it out the end of the main piece.
View media item 9261
Best of luck and start a thread when you start taking it apart so we can see what you have in the photo backgrounds. LOL
Craig
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

autopts

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 4, 2009
Messages
2,268
Indeed I do - no idea where to get them from, however???

I guess you have a couple of choices on those pipe jaws. one, buy them not from Wilton, but a Wilton supplier. They arn't cheap, about $80 for the pair, or, have them made which probably won't be cheap either. New ones will be a direct fit however the clip in back will have to come off.
 

DieselDent

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 22, 2009
Messages
309
Location
Bushwood, MD
It is for grabbing tapered workpieces. That is a really nice vise!:bowdown:

Dieseldent - that is a swivel jaw vise and it is much groovy! Basically you would pull out that pin and the rear jaw would pivot to match the taper of a workpiece that did not have parallel sides. Put the pin back in and it was locked into a parallel jaw vise like most vises. The problem happens when the jaw is not used much to pivot and rust will sort of bind it up in a fixed position. Pivoting will look like this with the pin removed:
View media item 8909
See the groove in the jaw? This is where the locking pin runs across locking my jaw in place. If yours is like a Prentiss (and I think it is...) then just pivot yours around 90 degrees and it will move forward (towards the other jaw face) and come out.
Craig
View media item 8897
My static jaw looks like this on my Parker with the jaw removed:
View media item 8899
If yours is like a Prentiss vise, then you can not remove the jaw until you pivot it almost 90 degrees to the side and then it will pull out forward. It locks into place by the main pivot jaw having an "undercut overlap". On my Parker, there is a cross pin that you punch out from one side to the other side completely. This allows the jaw to just come straight up and out from any position.

If you clamp your Reed (with everything taken off of it) in another vise and hit (smack, tap, whatever makes you comfortable) the tail end of the swivel jaw (I use a wooden stake between tail and hammer, short PVC pipe piece works a treat) it should start to swivel.
View media item 9260
It should spin around to about 90 degrees and you can just push it out the end of the main piece.
View media item 9261
Best of luck and start a thread when you start taking it apart so we can see what you have in the photo backgrounds. LOL
Craig


Very cool thanks for all the info guys, I have alot of cleaning up to do and it needs some new jaw plates. :beer:
 

copterdoctor

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 21, 2010
Messages
2,504
Location
Wasilla Alaska
here's a couple from the shop ... we got about 3-4 more, I'll post them up monday evening...
 

Attachments

  • IMG_0950.jpg
    IMG_0950.jpg
    140.9 KB · Views: 53
  • IMG_0959.jpg
    IMG_0959.jpg
    144.9 KB · Views: 93

canuckian

Well-known member
Joined
May 7, 2009
Messages
4,103
Location
East coast of Canaaada
well, after long last, I FINALLY have a vise worth posting about! Just got back from vacation in SC and while i was there I couldn't find any vises worth picking up so I took GJ member r07d24 (Robert) up on his offer from a while back to help me locate a vise. Inside of 24 hours he had located an absolutely mint Wilton 101028 bullet vise from a local farmer. He sent me some pictures and as soon as I saw the first one I was sold. By the looks of it, it has never even been bolted to a bench, let alone used. I was fully prepared to have to refinish/refurbish a used vise but I think I'll just clean and grease this one up and use it as is.
Many thanks to Robert for not only finding this vise and giving me a great deal on it but also for driving to meet up with me on our way back to Canada right at dinner time. My apologies to his family if he was late for dinner!!

The date stamped on it is 173 so I'm guessing it was made in Jan 1973. Not too shabby for a 38 year old vise!!
utf-8BSU1HLTIwMTEwNTAxLTAwMjIzLmpwZw.jpg


utf-8BSU1HLTIwMTEwNTAxLTAwMjIyLmpwZw.jpg


utf-8BSU1HLTIwMTEwNTAxLTAwMjI2LmpwZw.jpg


utf-8BSU1HLTIwMTEwNTAxLTAwMjI1LmpwZw.jpg


utf-8BSU1HLTIwMTEwNTAxLTAwMjI0LmpwZw.jpg


utf-8BSU1HLTIwMTEwNTAxLTAwMjMyLmpwZw.jpg


utf-8BSU1HLTIwMTEwNTAxLTAwMjMxLmpwZw.jpg
 

Catalyze

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 7, 2011
Messages
1,369
Location
New Mexico
Most excellent! A cyber pat on the back to both you and Robert for coming up with such a great Wilton. However, the limit is one American vise per Canadian household so you are hereby finished.....unless you bring back some Jos Louis Snack Cakes.
Craig
 

canuckian

Well-known member
Joined
May 7, 2009
Messages
4,103
Location
East coast of Canaaada
Most excellent! A cyber pat on the back to both you and Robert for coming up with such a great Wilton. However, the limit is one American vise per Canadian household so you are hereby finished.....unless you bring back some Jos Louis Snack Cakes.
Craig

LMAO...gotta love those Jos Louis!! Did you know there's such a thing as a "Super Jos Louis" ?? double the thickness of the regular ones. I'll have to remember to bring a case the next time I head south of the border in search of more elusive Wiltons!
 

autopts

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 4, 2009
Messages
2,268
[The date stamped on it is 173 so I'm guessing it was made in Jan 1973. Not too shabby for a 38 year old vise!!


That 101028 was one of the nicest 4" bullets Wilton ever made. That vise was previously their 9400 which came around in the 50's. Really no improvements on it from the late 50's to their last year of production in 1974. Don't use the anvil and with some luck, you might find a swivel base one day. That is my favorate bullet!
 

canuckian

Well-known member
Joined
May 7, 2009
Messages
4,103
Location
East coast of Canaaada
[The date stamped on it is 173 so I'm guessing it was made in Jan 1973. Not too shabby for a 38 year old vise!!


That 101028 was one of the nicest 4" bullets Wilton ever made. That vise was previously their 9400 which came around in the 50's. Really no improvements on it from the late 50's to their last year of production in 1974. Don't use the anvil and with some luck, you might find a swivel base one day. That is my favorate bullet!

was wondering about the anvil. I wasn't planning on wailing on it but I'm thinking with extended use, there'd be some risk of cracking the body of the vise as it seems a little thin and awkwardly placed. I'm planning on picking up a small anvil in the near future anyways so I'll just pound on that instead of the one on the Wilton!
Been looking around for swivel bases with no luck but plan on contacting Wilton and Ackland-Grainger when I get a free minute to see if they can find something that would work.
 

autopts

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 4, 2009
Messages
2,268
was wondering about the anvil. I wasn't planning on wailing on it but I'm thinking with extended use, there'd be some risk of cracking the body of the vise as it seems a little thin and awkwardly placed. I'm planning on picking up a small anvil in the near future anyways so I'll just pound on that instead of the one on the Wilton!
Been looking around for swivel bases with no luck but plan on contacting Wilton and Ackland-Grainger when I get a free minute to see if they can find something that would work.

The swivel base from their current 400S will work but then they arn't cheap either. Wilton sells it as a complete assembly, base, inner ring, bolts, and swivel handles. 2904120 part # and it goes anywhere from $75-$100.
 

canuckian

Well-known member
Joined
May 7, 2009
Messages
4,103
Location
East coast of Canaaada
The swivel base from their current 400S will work but then they arn't cheap either. Wilton sells it as a complete assembly, base, inner ring, bolts, and swivel handles. 2904120 part # and it goes anywhere from $75-$100.

thanks for the info!! was expecting to pay upwards of $100 for it so I wasn't far off at all. i have it set up the way it is at the moment and so far I'm very happy with it. The design initself pretty much removes any chance of "play" in the dynamic jaw which was the thing I didn't like about the cheap chinese vise i had been using up until now.
now I know why a lot of people rave about these old Wiltons!
 

autopts

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 4, 2009
Messages
2,268
thanks for the info!! was expecting to pay upwards of $100 for it so I wasn't far off at all. i have it set up the way it is at the moment and so far I'm very happy with it. The design initself pretty much removes any chance of "play" in the dynamic jaw which was the thing I didn't like about the cheap chinese vise i had been using up until now.
now I know why a lot of people rave about these old Wiltons!

I believe someone is selling just the base on Ebay for $30. I can sell you the inner ring and you can go to the hardwrare store and get 2 carriage bolts 1/2-20 with plain nuts and cut your expense in half. The reason I said not to use the anvil is because its not a hardened surface and is part of the casting.
 
Last edited:

bgott

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 31, 2005
Messages
3,512
Location
Houston, TX.
was wondering about the anvil

If I have to beat on something on my work vise I close the jaws and beat on the top of the jaws. It's the thickest part of the vise and usually easier to get to than the little fake anvil on the body. At home I don't beat on my machinist's vise, I use my anvil.
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!
Top Bottom