Mild steel bench top. Rust prevention?

[91bronc300]

Hey guys, I finished building a second work bench a little while ago. 2.5 inches thick, it's composed of OSB, solid pine, red oak faced plywood on the top, and solid hickory as a face around the edges. Stained and urethaned it looks great, but I find I just do not like the surface. It's not tough enough. I want to put on a steel top. My main work bench is nearly the same type of build, three layers of 3/4 inch plywood, but with a stainless steel top. And as much as I LOVE that top a full sheet of 12 gauge stainless is $250 at the local supplier. I don't want to spend that much on a top for this second bench.

A full sheet of 12 gauge carbon steel at the local supplier is just shy of $100 and I plan on picking one up tomorrow. So my question is the best way to put a little coating on it to keep off any surface rust. I know a few of my options are a 50/50 mix of linseed oil and mineral spirits spread on and allowed to dry, rubbing on beeswax or turtle wax, or wiping the thing down with used motor oil then 'cooking' off the lighter constituents in the oil. I want a surface that is just a little bit slick, but not gummy at all. So I'm thinking beeswax is out, but how about the boiled off motor oil? Is that surface tacky or gummy at all? And how about the linseed/solvent mix? Just looking for some wisdom on the subject.

 

[browntown]

My first thought was spray on truck bed liner. Ought to be a tough durable finish. Just spitballing. Or just spray paint it, it wont last forever but it's easy to redo.

 

[Beaumont67]

BOILED linseed oil will dry on wood ... on metal ???

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1965 Malibu S/S, 1966 Beaumont Custom original paint, 1967 Beaumont Custom, 1967 Beaumont Custom original paint, 1967 Beaumont 396-350HP Sport Deluxe M21-411's - SOLD 1970 Judge

 

[ZRX61]

I'd attack it with the DA sander to get a nice finish & then just use car wax on it.

 

[CamarosRus]

FLUID FILM Rust Inhibitor

For aeresol cans in Seattle area contact me..........

 

[ibedayank]

when lived in duluth mn i used heavy weight oil or multi purpose grease only things i found that where cheap and worked well on stuff in a unheated garage or shed

 

[countryroad82]

Where I work I have 3 steel benches that were never painted, they get used for everything so just imagine all the abuse you can dream of but all I ever do is every now and again I spray them down with WD-40 and rub it in, it doesn't leave too sticky of a surface and it wears off/ in pretty easy.

 

[csmitty]

What is it used for? I have a 11ga top on my 4x4 work/welding table. Whole things is unpainted. For the top I just spray with WD40 to clean protect every once in a while or if auto fluids get spilled on it. And if it gets bad can just hit it with a 80grit flap disc.

 

[McKay]

I have a 1/4" thick bench top of mild steel. Best thing I found for it is Gun Blue. Buy you a small $5 bottle of cold gun blue. Clean the steel, and wipe on the blueing with a rag. It will react right in front of your eyes. Give it just a few minutes then wipe it down with some solvent. Lasts a real long time. Looks great and is very easy to touch up if need be.

Mac

 

[ryannotbryan]

I use a product called Sharkhide on raw metal. Applies with a soft rag and protects (with one coat) up to a year. Here's a picture of my application, mostly chromo and DOM. A year later and no rust

 

[McKay]

I have used sharkhide for some marine applications. From my expierence it would be no where near tough enough for a benchtop application. Well at lease how I use my bench. (Welding, pounding, grinding, etc.)

 

[Packard V8]

FWIW, the head assembly bench top at the automotive machine shop I use is 1/8" mild steel, with a rolled 2" lip on the front and a 6" backsplash. All it has ever seen is all the spilled 10W-40 from head assembly. Still like new.

From this experience, if you want the best possible bench top, have the front and back steel roll-formed like a kitchen counter. I've never seen a better one and the two radiused bends didn't cost that much extra.

jack vines

 

[91bronc300]

Thanks for all the great suggestions. That sharkhide stuff looks pretty cool but it's a bit expensive for me. I had never heard of cold blue before but it looks like that is what I am probably going to try. Looks like I'll be ordering a bottle of oxpho-blue from brownells' website. Once the cold blue has added it's patina I'll go over that with either just WD-40 or turtle-wax. This bench ought to looks great and have a nice tough top after it's all said and done.

 

[Jack Olsen]

Where are you located? I have three steel-topped benches in my garage. The only one that's ever shown any rust is the one I used sulfuric acid to eat away at the mill scale that covers most unfinished steel you buy. I find that I get light rusting on that bench if I let water sit on it. But it's easy to wipe off and just about any light oil or WD 40 (or even Pam nonstick spray, which I have around from welding) will prevent the rust from forming.

On the other benches, no rust has formed. The mill scale seems to be all the protection I need for these indoor benches. But then, I'm in a very dry climate.

If it's not too late, you might want to ask your steel supplier about remnants -- or see if they have a section of the shop where remnants and cut pieces are sold by the pound. You might be able to get a thicker piece for less money.

Have you worked out how you're cutting the 12 gauge sheet for the bench? Are you planning on bending it down to wrap around the face of the bench top or anything like that?

 

[91bronc300]

Jack, I'm in Iowa. Our summers here are pretty humid. 80% or more. Not that I expect the steel to start rusting immediately, it's inside the garage after all.

I could have the supplier shear the metal at the shop but when you ask them to do that they make you pay for the steel up front (they won't cut the metal until you pay for it), then they put it on their list of things to do and tell you to come back in an hour or two. And since the supplier is 25+ miles from my house I would just have to hang around while I wait for them to shear it for me. I'd rather just go buy the full sheet and go. I can just clamp a long straight edge to it at home and cut it with the torch.

The hickory that faces the edges of the bench actually stick up about 3/32 above the top of the bench surface. I did that because the oily, nasty projects would get done on the first workbench that already has the SS top and can wipe up easily, but this second bench I intended for finer kind of work and I wanted to keep screws and whatnot from rolling off the bench top. But this will work out well because by using 12 gauge steel as the top it will raise the bench top surface even with this hickory border and make the entire top flush.

Honestly, I don't really know how much of a problem rust is really going to be. Back in Utah none of my tools ever rusted, but here in Iowa some days I can come out to the garage and see that some of my tools have condensation on their surface. Very few have actually rusted though since most have oil and grease on them.

 

[red02chevy]

Use the Must for Rust


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[MotoDave]

Check out this stuff: http://boeshield.com/

I've found it sold at woodworking stores, used to protect cast iron machine tables. If you put it on light it gives the metal some lubricity and prevents rust pretty well, if you go heavy it'll leave a protective waxy coating that you can wipe off easily.

 

[alex71]

good old Johnson's paste wax works fine.... but the best way to keep your benchtop from rusting is to use it often.

 

[Packard V8]

Jack, I'm in Iowa. Our summers here are pretty humid. 80% or more.

Sorry about that. How long are you in for?

jack vines

 

[91bronc300]

Sorry about that. How long are you in for?

jack vines

Until I get sick of it. So.....yesterday

Probably a few years. Iowa is just where I happened to be at the time the government offered the first time homebuyer credit. I have a good job out here so I decided to jump on it. I plan on doing a few projects on the house over the next couple years though and then selling it and heading back west again. Your sympathy is appreciated

 

[JASTECH]

You could give Amsoil Heavy Duty metal protector a try. For my bench top I went to a local HAC shop and they used heavy gauge galvanized steel and cut sheet to fit their brake and bent the back splash/top/front edge for my 16' x 30" bench. I used Spax screws to attach.

Thanks, JASTECH

 

[Keep]

I have never coated mine with anything other then some penetrating oil when I first got it, to some PAM when i am welding on it. Not a speck of rust on it in 3 years.

Only time you would ever see surface rust trying to form was if I left water on it.

Once a year I will clear the entire thing off, spray a rag with some brake cleaner and wipe down the whole bench. Once its dry I will spray it with some WD40 and wipe it down. Not really a lot of upkeep to it as long as you use it.

This is in a garage that cycles from -15 to 60 during the winter and stays humid all summer.

 

[W650Mike]

Fluid film is worth a try. You can buy it at John Deere dealers; and I'm sure Iowa has a few of them!

 

[91bronc300]

So here's the before and after pics. Once I got the steel on I started to put on some turtle wax but figured it's going to be getting oil all over it soon enough so I just left it as is. If it does end up getting some surface rust I'll just scotch it off and maybe try that Boeshield stuff that was mentioned.

I moved the vise a little bit while doing the steel and this put one of the bolt holes right over a bench leg so the vise is only a 3 bolt job now. Maybe later I'll get a lag bolt for the fourth hole.

Thanks for all the good suggestions. This surface out to not beat up near as fast as the wood was.

 

[ZRX61]

You need to either drywall behind the bench, or move it away from the wall & screw a piece of wood to the back of it to stop stuff falling off the back.. kinda like a backsplash.

 

[91bronc300]

I'll get to that point. Backsplash anyway, not drywall

 

[Jack Olsen]

The bench looks great.

Why no drywall, plywood or OSB on the walls?

 

[TOOL MASTER]

paste wax

 

[dr_clyde]

I laser cut a 1/2 steel top for my smaller snappy box. i occasionally wiped it down with WD-40. The only part that rusted was underneath my vise where I couldn't access it. If I did it again, I'd zinc plate it or do it out of stainless.

 

[91bronc300]

The bench looks great.

Why no drywall, plywood or OSB on the walls?

Thanks Jack. There's just so many other pretty big projects around the house right now though that boarding up the studs in the garage is far down a long list.

If I did it again, I'd zinc plate it or do it out of stainless.

Dinero I don't have at the moment LOL

 

[CatKid]

All you need to do is wd-40 it and wipe it down. The only time it ever gets any rust on it is when I leave a beer can on it and it sweats.

 

[Justanoldguy]

Used Gibbs Product on mine..
Missed a couple of square inches and noticed in days the difference.

 

[91bronc300]

All you need to do is wd-40 it and wipe it down. The only time it ever gets any rust on it is when I leave a beer can on it and it sweats.

Yeah buddy! Someone's got a big press brake. I'll probably just weld a 4 inch or so splash guard onto the back of mine. Nice bench dude!

 

[-Brent-]

Used Gibbs Product on mine..
Missed a couple of square inches and noticed in days the difference.

I'm glad to see Gibbs mentioned. I haven't bought WD40 in a long time. There are better products for every need you may have WD40 for. Preventing rust... Gibbs, for sure.