Garage choices; your opinion(s)?

[Mikie]

I have been saving for a long time to build a [much needed] 30 x 36 shop/garage. Aside from the slab, what would be the best (economical) route to go;

- Metal pole building/metal roof

- Standard wood construction with metal roof

- Cinder block with metal-covered trussed roof?

My use would be for working on cars, welding, etc. I value each and every one of your ideas and opinions, thank you ...

 

[holdover]

this topic has been dealt with many times, but here goes, It all depends on if you are doing the work yourself or paying to have it done. Different areas have different rules about how to do it and different labor rates if you are having it done. The cost of materials is not too big a difference. I built a 40 X 60 with 10" walls using 2 X6 and T111 on the outside, 7 windows, one entrance door, a 16' X36 enclosed leanto on the side, insulation and OSB on the inside, half sissor truss for the lifts, 9' X 16' garage door and except for about 4K labor for cement finishing and some roof work the total came to about 28K

 

[Mikie]

Sorry I tried to search a bit on this topic, with not much luck. And no I definitely will not be doing this work myself, otherwise it would be a real mess! I'm open to any design really, but mostly just trying to comare the costs for the 3 different styles. Personally I would like a cinder block shop, but have no clue as to the cost.

 

[Cougar]

I have a 30 x 50 pole building with a metal roof.
When it rains it is noisy, real noisy.
If I ever build another one I may go with a shingled roof.

 

[Mikie]

I have a 30 x 50 pole building with a metal roof.
When it rains it is noisy, real noisy.
If I ever build another one I may go with a shingled roof.

Do you have one of those vapor barriers under the metal?

 

[Cougar]

Do you have one of those vapor barriers under the metal?

No and it's not insulated. Insulating is on my list of things to do. That should help quiet it down some.

 

[TheGunCollector]

I'm going with a pole barn mainly due to it having the least effect on increasing my property taxes.

Keeping my property taxes below $1000/yr was the goal, and the pole barn is the ticket.

 

[LennyTheLizard]

I don't know much about cinder block buildings, but it seems labor intensive to me, and if you ever want to insulate later, it seems there would be more work / expense involved. When I started checking prices for my 40' x 60' build I found that the steel frame / steel sheeting buildings cost about the same for materials as a wood frame / steel sheeting building cost installed with labor (not including concrete of course).

 

[NUTTSGT]

If you can and have the skills, the cheapest route is to build it yourself. You will get more for your money. If it were me, I'd stick build and use 2x6 walls, it'll allow for more insulation. It might cost more in the beginning but it'll pay for itself in the long haul.

 

[Mikie]

I might try to build myself if I had someone helping me that knew what they were doing. I'm not good in that area, believe me

 

[Falcon67]

Stick with comp roof. I've laid a little brick, hate it. I've already fallen off comp roofs, no need to put metal up there to make me fall faster.

 

[dirttracker18]

If you intend on insulating I would stay away from cinder block as you wuold likely need to build an internal wall to insulate, or have it spray foamed. both options would be costly additions.

Stick build is cost effective, so is a steel building as they are ofter on sale. It would depend on the look you are going for or if that is even important.

I build a 30 X 36 myself and considered a metal building but it was going to be close to the house and I did not want that to affect potention sale later in life. Plus I wanted it to look good next to the house.

 

[Mikie]

If you intend on insulating I would stay away from cinder block as you wuold likely need to build an internal wall to insulate, or have it spray foamed. both options would be costly additions.

Stick build is cost effective, so is a steel building as they are ofter on sale. It would depend on the look you are going for or if that is even important.

I build a 30 X 36 myself and considered a metal building but it was going to be close to the house and I did not want that to affect potention sale later in life. Plus I wanted it to look good next to the house.

That's a good point about the insulation, I never thought about that. Hmm, well I suppose it's between stick and metal now. I want to be able to make it look "retro" with an old gas pump and such, that's why I considered the cinder block ones. Metal buildings don't really have an 'old' look to them, I suppose a stick frame could be made to have a vintage appearance.
As a side note, do you/did you race dirt-track? I used to back in the 70-80's. Actually still have my bikes.

 

[nonhog]

I'd stick frame or a combo of stick and pole. Consider a beam instead of a pole in the center of your building. Or go with a metal frame with trusses that eliminate a post.

Consider hiring each phase as you go. Instead of a company that builds all of it. I think if done right your quality may be higher. Also could be more of a pain.

Lots of hungry workers out right now. Time to get a good deal.
Metal roof is awesome shedding fir needles. Figured you may have that issue?
Any siding you want can be done.

 

[NUTTSGT]

If you want the older look, you could stick build. Then do like the older Gulf stations and put some stone veneer on the front lower half.

 

[holdover]

Over the years I've worked in many block buildings and have a few friends that have them, and as I recall they weren't all that cold, or difficult to heat. If you were to heat them full time instead of just when you are working in them, it might be a different issue. There is a pour in block filler, the name excapes me, that works pretty good. The walls would be fireproof. All they are is an above ground foundation, might even be pretty cheap. Do a block count, the cost for laying them is about a buck 1/2 up to about 10". talk to a foundation / block mason

 

[dirttracker18]

Over the years I've worked in many block buildings and have a few friends that have them, and as I recall they weren't all that cold, or difficult to heat. If you were to heat them full time instead of just when you are working in them, it might be a different issue. There is a pour in block filler, the name excapes me, that works pretty good. The walls would be fireproof. All they are is an above ground foundation, might even be pretty cheap. Do a block count, the cost for laying them is about a buck 1/2 up to about 10". talk to a foundation / block mason

If it is built with cinder blocks it would not be fire proof as cinder blocks are just that, cinders (burnt wood). Certainly not fire proof There is a difference between cinder blocks and concrete blocks. Perhaps some of our masons on here can chime in on this.

Mike,
Not racing right now but I was running cars, modifieds on dirt.

 

[holdover]

does anyone sell cinder blocks any longer? All that is available down here in SW VA is either concrete block or a version of it they call lightweight block

 

[Mikie]

does anyone sell cinder blocks any longer? All that is available down here in SW VA is either concrete block or a version of it they call lightweight block

Actually, I meant concrete blocks. I thought cinder blocks were the same thing - DOH!

 

[rquackenbush]

One way to build it yourself but not have to go through a lot of hassle is to buy a kit from a reputable company. In my area, we have TimberTruss (they sell prefab components for houses) and they have some good priced kits that include all the structural bits (except for foundation).

 

[Mikie]

Thanks all, for your input. That's one of the reasons what makes Garage Journal what it is, good sound advice

 

[38Chevy454]

My garage is 26 x 48, about same sq ft as you are considering. Seemed to me the corssover point is around 1000 sq ft where a metal building is cheaper than stick built. Since I wanted mine to match the house with stucco, I went stick built 2x6 walls. Metal building would require additional work to put stucco and made it less cost effective. Plus stick built was easier for me doing the interior walls and ceiling myself. Also std insulation size and std electrical boxes, etc it just made sense to go with conventional stick built.

 

[ibedayank]

stick built if you want inside walls
polebarn for LARGE size and fast to build
MUCH easier to insulate a stick built


there is a way to make insulated concrete walls... i doubt it is cheap tho they mix styrofoam with the concrete if i remember right. Not sure how well that would hold up for a shop

and the point 38chevy454 makes
also add in how deep your pockets are
if needed build the shell finish inside as $$ allows

 

[Mikie]

stick built if you want inside walls
polebarn for LARGE size and fast to build
MUCH easier to insulate a stick built


there is a way to make insulated concrete walls... i doubt it is cheap tho they mix styrofoam with the concrete if i remember right. Not sure how well that would hold up for a shop

and the point 38chevy454 makes
also add in how deep your pockets are
if needed build the shell finish inside as $$ allows

Unfortunately, my pockets are not deep at all. If I had the skillset, I would build it myself over the course of the summer. I will most likely go with a pole barn similar to this one. All for $12k! http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=101294

 

[Pointbock]

Unfortunately, my pockets are not deep at all. If I had the skillset, I would build it myself over the course of the summer. I will most likely go with a pole barn similar to this one. All for $12k! http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=101294

I think that's your best "bang for buck" option. It's really easy to frame/insulate the interior yourself later (when you can save up some $$ and favors from skilled friends.) It gets you a secure and weatherproof building in the least time for the least money. Spend early on things that can't be done later (slab insulaton, water/sewer and electric prep, etc.)

 

[Falcon67]

Just for price comparison - Doing a 24x32 (slab, comp roof, insulation, drywall, 8' ceiling) using my current spreadsheet figures I come up with $6500 for stick built, me doing all the work. I don't claim the skill set, but I claim the gumption.

 

[big.jim]

a lot is down to personal preference but my garage is brick outer and lightweight block inner with a fibreglass wall bat inbetween for insulation and it is fireproof believe me and if you are welding in there that is a BIG consideration

 

[Mikie]

ALL good points to consider. I just want to have an old-time looking shop, with old signs & a gas pump. To me the only way is concrete block or wood frame

 

[tinbender 66]

Hey Mikie, I built a 24X48X11' pole building mostly by myself. I framed between the poles with 2X6 so I could have wood siding and insulation. With poles AND framing you can make it look any way you want. I still need to insulate and cover the inside walls and a few other little things but I'll have under 17K in it all done. If you want, PM me and I'll give you my phone # and you can even come look at it if you want. We're only about an hour away from each other.

 

[dankicksass]

Have a metal roof done right and you'll never have to think about it again. Build the biggest garage you can, then a shed for all the **** you don't want in your garage. Keep the windows high and the place secure. Good luck.

 

[rsa]

ALL good points to consider. I just want to have an old-time looking shop, with old signs & a gas pump. To me the only way is concrete block or wood frame

I'd love to use a weathering steel such as COR-TEN® on the roof and/or walls, but I don't think I could get away with it. U. S. Steel would rather you use the painted version, COR-TEN AZP, but architects have successfully used the rusting-version for years.

:

 

[Mikie]

Hey Mikie, I built a 24X48X11' pole building mostly by myself. I framed between the poles with 2X6 so I could have wood siding and insulation. With poles AND framing you can make it look any way you want. I still need to insulate and cover the inside walls and a few other little things but I'll have under 17K in it all done. If you want, PM me and I'll give you my phone # and you can even come look at it if you want. We're only about an hour away from each other.

TINBENDER, I'd like to take you up on that offer. If you want, PM me your number & we'll set it up...

Have a metal roof done right and you'll never have to think about it again. Build the biggest garage you can, then a shed for all the **** you don't want in your garage. Keep the windows high and the place secure. Good luck.

Absolutely my thoughts on another 'shed' for all the stuff I want to keep out of the garage. I've seen some cluttered shops in my time, I don't want to be of of 'em...

I'd love to use a weathering steel such as COR-TEN® on the roof and/or walls, but I don't think I could get away with it. U. S. Steel would rather you use the painted version, COR-TEN AZP, but architects have successfully used the rusting-version for years.

I see what you mean, but that would not work in this state of liquid sunshine. Rust is the official state color I think. Probably a painted metal roof for me, and a wood-sided pole barn as mentioned by some other above...