Between 265 & 485 SQ/FT The 12-Gauge Garage

[boarderline]

I switched to a single-belt system before the knock started. (The stock setup used a second belt to drive the alternator faster, since the car was getting more electronic nonsense in 1995. For my use, it was overdriving the alternator and wasting power.) For the single belt (which is what you see in the picture) I was able to use the inside sheave, which was still viable. But once the engine is out, I'll replace that three-sheave pulley with a single (and lighter) one. I've never heard of a problem like this with 911 engines -- I suspect it was like lightning striking. But the investigation is just starting.

One of these maybe ?

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PORSCHE 911 BILLET MACHINED CRANK PULLEY
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CNC machined Porsche 911 Crank Pulley - Stock Diameter
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Our CNC machined Porsche 911 crank pulley's weigh less than ½ the weight of a stock pulley and run true from the precision machining. These are stock diameter and have timing marks.
http://hargettprecision.com/index.php/

 

[Jack Olsen]

Yes. One of Mark's pulleys is probably in my future.

 

[Squankum]

I'm not sure if Gilmore pulleys are different from Gilmer toothed belt/toothed pulleys, but... hmmm.... You know they use them for timing chains on NASCAR V-8's? And those run more rpm than you do. It's a possibility.

But it might be heavier, and Porsche knows what they're doing.

Go for the lighter pulley! And a little smaller, if you can get away with it? Which you can't, street car, high temp region, weird cooling mediums of oil and air.

 

[metalhead212121]

When I grow up (if I EVER grow up)....
I DON'T want to be a pro athlete...
I DON'T want to be a rock star....
I DON'T want to be a millionaire....
I want to have the skills that Jack Olsen has!

Dan

 

[Jack Olsen]

Ha! Thanks, but you don't want to see too much of my work up close.

I think my strong point is that I'm willing to jump into types of projects I've never tried before. And I'm also pretty good at getting off the usual path and coming up with unusual and functional designs. But my weak points are persistence, patience and detail work. I'm much better at doing a new thing once than at doing a familiar thing a dozen times over.

It makes sense, considering that in what I do for a living you've got to always come up with (pretty much) something that hasn't been done before.

 

[OccupantRJ]

I had originally planned to have it mounted as foot pedals down under the swing away panel on the side of the center island, but worried that my kid might figure it out. So now it's up and out of his reach. Of course, before he gets too much taller I'm going to have to come up with another level of security for it.

Jack, On my lift I used a key operated switch to kill the lift power, along with a small beeper as a downward motion alert. I knew my boys would be riding the lift up and down when I wasn't home, if I didn't do that. I also had a pendant control on a cord reel to allow me to roam around the lift whille operating it.

 

[sladey]

I stained the tops of the three main benches dark with an opaque stain and marine varnish on top of it. I’m still on the fence about this decision -- I don’t want benches that look so nice you’re afraid to use them, but I also was getting tired of all my benches being the same unfinished wood color.

Hi Jack - Great Garage - it's inspiring me to think more seriously about my own. In relation to the finish on the wooden worktops have you considered Danish oil - I've used it on wooden kitchen worktops for the last 15 years and it's great. The beauty is that as it's an oil, if it wears through in one spot you can just slap a bit more on - without having to strip, sand and recoat a whole worktop with varnish. It's pretty tough too and soaks into the wood pretty well.

Sorry if someone's already mentioned this but I haven't read through all 48 pages of your thread.

Cheers

Mark

 

[DEV0]

I really like that video showing the lift Jack, to be honest I had in my head before joining here that a 2-post traditional lift was the end all be all lift but after seeing yours and others I'm thinking I may have an option for my small 2-car some day as well.

 

[Jack Olsen]

Jack, On my lift I used a key operated switch to kill the lift power, along with a small beeper as a downward motion alert. I knew my boys would be riding the lift up and down when I wasn't home, if I didn't do that. I also had a pendant control on a cord reel to allow me to roam around the lift whille operating it.

That's smart. I plan on a keyed switch, a red strobe that only stops when the mechanical stop is in place, and now maybe also a motion-triggered sound.

Hi Jack - Great Garage - it's inspiring me to think more seriously about my own. In relation to the finish on the wooden worktops have you considered Danish oil - I've used it on wooden kitchen worktops for the last 15 years and it's great. The beauty is that as it's an oil, if it wears through in one spot you can just slap a bit more on - without having to strip, sand and recoat a whole worktop with varnish. It's pretty tough too and soaks into the wood pretty well.

Thanks. I thought about oil for the two butcher-block bench tops. But then the solid-core door would have looked different -- and I'm into consistency if nothing else. As it happens, I've been pretty happy with the durability of the stain and marine varnish combo. It's getting a patina to it -- so it looks more like a shop and less like a kitchen.

I really like that video showing the lift Jack, to be honest I had in my head before joining here that a 2-post traditional lift was the end all be all lift but after seeing yours and others I'm thinking I may have an option for my small 2-car some day as well.

The downside to mine is that it would obstruct access to most front-engine cars transmission and exhaust -- and it would require arms or something to support those kinds of cars. The flat belly pan on a 911 makes this particular solution work for me.

But one of the reasons I thought about a lift was seeing a friend's shop where he put a Mohawk AR-6 scissor lift into the floor.

It might be the best of both worlds for a small garage, since it also raises up to a height were you can stand under the car (if you've got the ceiling height).

 

[ToolBoxTavern]

WOW. I am so jealous. I couldn't be that organized with 5 times the space. The lift just sets it off. Awesome.

 

[Jack Olsen]

Thanks.

I get the occasional email about the fold-down tables along where I park my car. So I cut together some pictures in a slideshow to show how the left side of my garage works.

CLICK HERE FOR THE VIDEO

 

[1Garageman]

That's a nice video Jack. I copied your idea of the tables flipping down and put that in my garage also! Great space saving idea.

 

[Dan in Pasadena]

Excellent, as usual.

To be consistent, shouldn't your basic woodworking tools, i.e. handsaw, sliding square, brace & bit (yeah, I own them but never use them), wood clamps be displayed when the wood working bench drops down ala your welding bench?

 

[cyclopsblown34]

Wow Jack, Is there anything you've missed? You've covered just about everything in your shop. You probably even have a hidden ventilation system for painting as well. I love the way you even tiled the lift. You're the man!

 

[ambenz]

I love the hidden lift idea Jack! Your ideas are amazing, and the whole package....NICE!

 

[kbuhagiar]

Thanks.
I get the occasional email about the fold-down tables along where I park my car. So I cut together some pictures in a slideshow to show how the left side of my garage works.

Oh, heck, Jack, now you're just showing off!!

 

[Oldtymeflyr]

I needed that!

Rick

 

[Zeke]

I watch Jack's videos just to listen to his choice of music.

 

[Jack Olsen]

To be consistent, shouldn't your basic woodworking tools, i.e. handsaw, sliding square, brace & bit (yeah, I own them but never use them), wood clamps be displayed when the wood working bench drops down ala your welding bench?

It's a good idea. I could modify the bench lightly and get some additional space back there. It's actually odd, "Wood" magazine contacted me asking to run the plans for that table again with other shop tips. I remember building that table and I didn't even have a plan when I did it. I just made it up based on what I had lying around. Now that I look at it and think of the skilled woodworking guys who read that magazine I'm a little embarrassed. I put those chock things on the floor so that the legs wouldn't slip, but I look at it now and I realize that all I would need to do is run a 4" wide strip of plywood connecting the legs (so that when the table is parked it would be just below the main body of the table, right up against the wall), and there wouldn't be any lateral movement at all in the legs and the chocks would be unnecessary. But it's too late for re-designing -- at least for the magazine.

Oh well.

Wow Jack, Is there anything you've missed? You've covered just about everything in your shop. You probably even have a hidden ventilation system for painting as well. I love the way you even tiled the lift. You're the man!

I've never done any automotive painting, but it's something I want to try. I've got a good ventilation fan in the ceiling, but I think I've read that the ones for painting need to be explosion resistant (not sure of the terminology there). I'll have to see. The race car could definitely use some paint.

I watch Jack's videos just to listen to his choice of music.

Thanks. It was nice to slip some banjo into that last one (that's Ten Million Slaves by Otis Taylor). I don't know much about music, but -- like everyone else, I guess -- I know what I like.

And now one more thing. What they call a remix in music, I guess. I went back to my old garage video and took out the pictures that don't apply anymore -- and added pictures with the stuff added since then. So here's the new version of a video no one asked for in the first place ( )... the 12-Gauge Garage.

 

[28HopUp]

Jack, did I miss the announcement about you becoming a Moderator here? Not trying to crawl up your backside, but you seem like a natural choice. Congratulations on the new position!!!

 

[onemore]

Ok that youtube stuff is excellent

 

[redfred18t]

whoa, that stealth lift is legit. Nice work!

 

[Squankum]

You've been quiet lately, Jack. Busy with the engine project? Or are you finally working on that pilot about a sassy robot?

 

[TX-WJ]

What is this??, I'm out of the scene for a few weeks and I come back to a color-matched in-ground lift??

That was an awsome job there Jack; props to you and your hard work. Always enjoy visiting your thread, very inspiring, thanks for posting all your progress.

 

[Gord]

Wow ! Ive seen your garage before and thought it looked good but... I'm amazed at the organization ! Excellent video's too. Thanks for the inspiration Jack !

 

[Jack Olsen]

Thanks for the nice words, guys.

Jack, did I miss the announcement about you becoming a Moderator here? Not trying to crawl up your backside, but you seem like a natural choice. Congratulations on the new position!!!

Yeah. Ryan bumped me up. It's nice, but I also feel like I ought to behave now with a little more dignity and restraint now that I've got that 'moderator' label.

And by dignity and restraint I mean fewer gratuitous pictures of my garage.

And by that I mean I 'feel I ought to post fewer' pictures. Which of course is not the same as 'actually posting fewer' pictures.

Oh, well.

You've been quiet lately, Jack. Busy with the engine project? Or are you finally working on that pilot about a sassy robot?

I've been working on a hitman story. I guess he could be described as sassy. Maybe I should make him a robot.

Wait a minute, wasn't RoboCop a sassy robot who killed people? How come no one's thought of a new remake of RoboCop? Somebody's going to sell that idea.

What is this??, I'm out of the scene for a few weeks and I come back to a color-matched in-ground lift??

That was an awesome job there Jack; props to you and your hard work. Always enjoy visiting your thread, very inspiring, thanks for posting all your progress.

Thanks. I kept meaning to put it off for work stuff. And then I kept finding myself sneaking out to work on it. And then I had some green paint lying around...

 

[Jack Olsen]

Here's a thing with me. As soon as I discovered this board, I liked it. But the one place I was a little iffy on, right from the beginning, was the tool section. It seemed that some of the guys in there were a little bit precious about their tools -- almost like exotic brands and tool truck products were a kind of fetish.

But with a lot of things, the reason it bugged me is probably because there's a little of it in me, too. Even though I have a lot of Harbor Freight in my garage, I definitely can not cast any first stones. And it got worse today, after the mail man delivered the last of a recent ebay buying streak on my part. Here's an illustration.

This is my pegboard over my main bench. I keep the tools there that I tend to grab frequently. Early on, there were some Sears screwdrivers and Harbor Freight wrenches. Nothing fancy by any stretch.

Then I went and spent a little time on the tool area side of things. That led to some new screwdrivers (they were on sale!), and then some fancy-pants German wrenches (they're really cool!). I'm now thinking I don't even need adjustable wrenches up there because of these adjustable Knipex things.

So here's the same pegboard today:

And here's the brands called out. I'm proud to say my no-class-at-all metric/SAE dogbone wrench is still up there. But the rest of the board has gotten a much more European flavor, now.

I got most of the stuff pretty cheap, but that's still expensive by Harbor Freight standards. And the Mac wrenches are actually made in China, I'm pretty sure. But they definitely have a lot better fit and finish than the HF ones did.

I guess you could call it 'tool attitude creep' the way the tools up there have slowly been displaced with better ones.

But do all your tools have to be the fancy kind? (Or in my case, apparently, the fancy kind with red handles.) I've got to stop reading the threads over in the tool section that talk about the 'best' of any tool category. It gets expensive.

 

[Call me the Breeze]

It's a good thing none of those new tools had blue handles... it would really mess up the color scheme LOL!!! As always Jack, You inspire us.

 

[Mach5]

Jack:

I get that the 911 has a flat belly pan floor that allows your lift to work with it. BUT, what about crushable oil lines to the oil cooler up front? How do you protect those? (I'm particularly interested in this hidden lift because I've got a low ceiling height, small garage, and because I have an 81 911).

Also, did you do the math on the weight of the tiles in determining your overall weight on the lift? Obviously, it works, as evidenced by the video. I'm just wondering how much closer to capacity all that tile put you.

Thanks. Great thread and nice garage.

Jeff

 

[mdbeck1]

It's a good thing none of those new tools had blue handles... it would really mess up the color scheme LOL!!! As always Jack, You inspire us.

Channellock pliers have blue handles....

 

[Jack Olsen]

I know about the red handles. I've got some no-red handles down in the 'trench' part of that box on the wall. Others go in the tool box -- where there isn't (and won't ever be) a color code.

I get that the 911 has a flat belly pan floor that allows your lift to work with it. BUT, what about crushable oil lines to the oil cooler up front? How do you protect those? (I'm particularly interested in this hidden lift because I've got a low ceiling height, small garage, and because I have an 81 911).

Also, did you do the math on the weight of the tiles in determining your overall weight on the lift? Obviously, it works, as evidenced by the video. I'm just wondering how much closer to capacity all that tile put you.

My 911 has flexible oil lines that run through the rocker panels. But sooner or later I'm going to want to put another 911 up there. So I made some blocks that can go under the jacking points.

The tiles and thinset do add some weight. But my weight for the car includes a full tank of gas. Most of the time it won't be full (and the tiles don't weigh as much as a gallon or two of gas).

And I'm still hundreds of pounds from capacity.

 

[cool50]

Hay Jack I just read that you caught someone trying to do some bad stuff to our world here. THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU. Good job

 

[BHR4CE1]

So I made some blocks that can go under the jacking points.

My Bendpak came with rubber blocks that I am supposed to place at the 4 jacking points as well, but I was wondering if it was possible to somehow attach the blocks to the jacking points so I don't have to get down on the floor to place and remove the blocks every time I want to use the lift. The whole reason for getting this lift was so I wouldn't have to get down on the floor to clean my rims due to my screwed up back. Having to do that just to put those blocks under the car seems to defeat the purpose for me having the jack in the first place.

 

[kbuhagiar]

Hay Jack I just read that you caught someone trying to do some bad stuff to our world here. THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU. Good job

Details, please?

 

[Jack Olsen]

Hay Jack I just read that you caught someone trying to do some bad stuff to our world here. THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU. Good job

Details, please?

You're welcome. But all I was doing was trying to find an old picture. I found that there was a certain date range where someone had edited in spam links to ordinary posts. I let Ryan know and he fixed it.

My Bendpak came with rubber blocks that I am supposed to place at the 4 jacking points as well, but I was wondering if it was possible to somehow attach the blocks to the jacking points so I don't have to get down on the floor to place and remove the blocks every time I want to use the lift. The whole reason for getting this lift was so I wouldn't have to get down on the floor to clean my rims due to my screwed up back. Having to do that just to put those blocks under the car seems to defeat the purpose for me having the jack in the first place.

I've thought about this a little. It turns out that for my car, the easiest solution was just a 3/4" thick pad that keeps the car and the lift from damaging each other. It gives me a fair amount of play in how my car is positioned, and spreads the load out very harmlessly across the sheet metal of the car.

But my car has an unobstructed and flat belly pan.

I thought about attaching a set of hockey pucks to my jacking points -- but the pad is so simple. I don't know what the underside of your car is like where it comes in contact with the lift, but it could be that a set of pads could work. Or you could look into getting some hockey-puck-type attachments (or neoprene pads) for your jacking point locations. It'd be interesting to see if it could work with your setup.

http://www.aftosa.com/8-34-square-neoprene-pads.html

http://www.closedcellfoams.com/gymnasticrubber.html

 

[Jack Olsen]

Well, the first phase of the engine work has started. My good friend Tyson came down from up north and I did what I could to assist while he dropped the motor and found both the cause of the failure (a spring-loaded pressure relief valve that had probably popped out during an oil change when a tech undid the wrong bolt) and the specifics of the damage (not nearly as bad as we feared).

The lift did make it easy to get the engine out. Tyson approved.

The first $40 of the repair money went for a cheap engine stand. Here's a piece of trivia, the famous Porsche six-cylinder boxer engine is technically a V-6 engine with a 180° V. The firing order would be different if it was a true boxer motor.

Still, you can see in this picture how the horizontally-opposed configuration keeps the engine's center of gravity as low as possible.

We found out that the top end had been rebuilt at some point in the motor's history, which is good. The valve guides (a problem on this motor) were in great shape and there was very little carbon build up on the valves or the pistons.

(Another piece of trivia: the Porsche flat six has hemispherical-shaped combustion chambers long before the term 'hemi' became forever associated with Mopar.)

The #2 rod bearing was the one that failed, which fits with the low pressure scenario from the missing relief valve. The intermediate shaft bearings were also prematurely worn. Here's some debris from the damaged rod bearing.

The good news is the oil pump is fine, the crank is still going to be useable, and the case is fine. I'll be sending out the crank, cylinders, case, and rods for basic machine work, but I won't need to replace any major components at all.

And the little two-car garage worked pretty well for the whole deal. My son got to pose for his first 911-engine-bay photo. He was making engine noises during this shot.

 

[Chachi11]

My first post here and I want to use it to tell you how awesome your pictures are!! Great job!!

 

[Zeke]

Awesome. You guys don't waste any time.

For you other readers, I know both these blokes and finer men you won't find easily. Add in the ability to drive very fast, you just won't find any.

 

[Dan in Pasadena]

Awesome. You guys don't waste any time.

For you other readers, I know both these blokes and finer men you won't find easily. Add in the ability to drive very fast, you just won't find any.

+1!!

 

[fergus]

Glad to see the damage was minimal. It also good to see the hard work paying off with a very usable work space making a tough chore easier. I'm aiming for the same.